The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

[The Shooman]

I see, so the uppers and maybe the insole is not as good leather as it should be? I'm discounting the finishing etc. since they don't really add to construction although they do, admittedly, add to the wearing experience. Which types of handwork were you referring to? Closing and potentially lasting?

handwork = cutting the extra leather and using it to build the shoe stronger inside the shoe to give it more structure so it holds up better/keeps it's shape over a long period of time. Carmina lacks it. Many typical midends like C&J benchgrade also lack it.

I call it the double brick house v's a single brick house. Shoes need to be built for the long hall.

Less materials and workmanship in Carmina to provide good structure. It just does the basics of goodyear welted. At least the sole leather is good, and the heels and insole too seem good too, but thin uppers. See...it gets various things right but lacks in other areas that clearly distinguishes it from the big boy shoes. I am not even going to bring up the goodyear welting, l am talking about all the other things.

 

[shookt]

Ah you mean synthetic stiffeners in the heel and toe etc etc? Trenton and Heath should have fully taken that apart including the uppers!

 

[walker]

Imo, their videos are a pleasant step above the BS kirby and his new servant/sycophant preston a. soto(the elegant oxford) produce on a regularly basis.

at the end of the day, they only cater to the their uninformed brownnosing audience, go figure.

Ah you mean synthetic stiffeners in the heel and toe etc etc? Trenton and Heath should have fully taken that apart including the uppers!

 

[shookt]

Imo, their videos are a pleasant step above the BS kirby and his new servant/sycophant preston a. soto(the elegant oxford) produce on a regularly basis.

at the end of the day, they only cater to the their uninformed brownnosing audience, go figure.

Agreed, these guys are actual practitioners.

 

[fxh]

 

[shookt]

Here's a somewhat funny comparison by Archibald London advertising their cost-transparency (scroll to bottom of page): https://www.archibaldlondon.com/collection/product/mens-captoe-oxford-shoes?color=black

The markup is probably somewhat exaggerated for Santoni and Lobb. A lot depends on how much craftsmanship costs. But try-harding aside, that seems to be an impressive price for hand welted shoes. A friend of mine is looking to pick one up as his first pair of hand welted shoes. I tried to persuade him to go AH but apparently I'm not persuasive at all.

Anyone know anything about this brand?

 

[The Shooman]

Here's a somewhat funny comparison by Archibald London advertising their cost-transparency (scroll to bottom of page): https://www.archibaldlondon.com/collection/product/mens-captoe-oxford-shoes?color=black

The markup is probably somewhat exaggerated for Santoni and Lobb. A lot depends on how much craftsmanship costs. But try-harding aside, that seems to be an impressive price for hand welted shoes. A friend of mine is looking to pick one up as his first pair of hand welted shoes. I tried to persuade him to go AH but apparently I'm not persuasive at all.

Anyone know anything about this brand?

AH styling is something many westerners don't seem to appreciate. It is sad because the styling is a no nonsense manly styling that fills a gap in the shoe world. Nothing can touch those AH classic double brogues and alt wiens, they are so authentic and ooze a character that no factory pair could ever touch.

The markup IS exaggerated for those higher end goodyear shoes. Why? Recently Edward Green wanted to charge me $5,200 for a goodyear welted pair with a gemmed waist and hand sewn waist on the outside (top draw), and still one of the heads of the company wrongly promoted the shoe as hand welted when it was not. So marking the shoe up $3,200 for a bit of hand stitching on the waist and a few extra cosmetic features??? The Italians give much more bang for the buck, and even add hand welting in for an extra $300 at Stefano Bemer, yet Edward Green can't even do handwelted for $5,200. Top English shoes are beautiful factory shoes with perfect lasts and perfect patterns and great styling, and that makes them worth the price, BUT they don't compare to the real McCoy....they have the cold clinical factory look and lack the authentic craftsmanship look.

The real Santoni are priced near $4,000 now for Bentivegna construction. Are they worth it? You bet they are. Built like tanks with top notch bespoke quality leathers. If you get the right type of classic design you'll be getting some of the best shoes ever. They are priced up near Lattanzi. They are better than Vass. I have a Vass wholecut that has better leather than my Materna bespoke alt wien, but my Santoni bentivegna construction split toe that uses multiple cuts still has better leather than anything. It is that good!!! Even my Vass brogues etc that uses multiple cuts is way down the list in quality. Usually in rtw, a wholecut will have better leather than a shoe that uses multiple cuts, but with my top end Santoni that is not the case despite using multiple cuts, so it tells me that no compromises are made with that shoe. That is not the case with the top english goodyear shoes...some cuts are good and some cuts not so good.

 

[The Shooman]

I have Trickers, Vass, Lobb ,KISS and Edward Green etc because l like variety for different reasons. They all have their place to create different looks and fill a certain mood. When l want the ultimate ride l go Vass all the way, but when l want an English look l go Church's or Trickers or Edward Green, and when l want the fancy pants eye popping look l go Lobb, or if l want to be a King in disguise l go for Santoni bentivegna.

I do lots of english shoes in the warmer weather and lots of Vass in the cooler days with heavier fabrics. It's all good fun.

 

[shookt]

I saw Yeossal's handwelted range today - to my very untrained eye, it looks pretty decent. Apparently people still much prefer TLB Mallorca for a 100-150 usd lower price, but good year welted. Boggled my mind.

 

[The Shooman]

John Lobb St James bespokes

So much money, yet such unsightly shoos. I know they probably have feet issues, but heck.

pic above from here

John Lobb Paris Shoes: Is It Worth It? (RTW Shoe Review) | Gentleman's Gazette

John Lobb Paris is a prestigious name in the men's shoe world, but are their RTW shoes worth your money? Check out our comprehensive review to find out!

www.gentlemansgazette.com

 

[The Shooman]

Stunning Silvano Lattanzi monks.




I am eyeing off a pair of Lattanzi myself. I hope to achieve one of my dreams soon. I want to experience the BIG daddy of off-the-rack footwear



.

 

[Dropbear]

Shoelaces? What are they?

 

[The Shooman]

an old picture l found of me wearing the legendary J & M handmade shoes. A great pair!

 

[Grand Potentate]

Shoelaces? What are they?View attachment 33082

i was meaning to ask you if you've ever tried the Tambo model from RM Williams?

Black Comfort Tambo Boots | R.M.Williams Chelsea Boots | R.M.Williams® United States

Add a touch of timeless and iconic and elevate your outfit with Black Comfort Tambo Boots. Enjoy free shipping on all orders over $150 Australia-wide.

www.rmwilliams.com

 

[Dropbear]

i was meaning to ask you if you've ever tried the Tambo model from RM Williams?

Black Comfort Tambo Boots | R.M.Williams Chelsea Boots | R.M.Williams® United States

Add a touch of timeless and iconic and elevate your outfit with Black Comfort Tambo Boots. Enjoy free shipping on all orders over $150 Australia-wide.

www.rmwilliams.com

I haven’t, since G width fits me. Tambo is basically a Craftsman in EEEE width, isn’t it?

 

[The Shooman]

This bloke from Singapore is said to have the biggest highend shoe collection in the world. He has thousands of highend pairs apparently, mostly bespoke and hand welted. He is also on S.F.

thunder_march - Instagram photos and videos

Handwelted, preferably, mainly.

deskgram.co

 

[shookt]

Yes indeed, he's a big fan of Antonio Meccariello and I believe he's an investor in Josh Leong (the Singaporean shoemaker) and a bespoke tailor. Recently been trying out some Chinese bespoke makers as well.

 

[The Shooman]

Yes indeed, he's a big fan of Antonio Meccariello and I believe he's an investor in Josh Leong (the Singaporean shoemaker) and a bespoke tailor. Recently been trying out some Chinese bespoke makers as well.

The chinese are doing great bespoke work here:

YIM(@yim.shoemaker) - Instagram photos and videos

Shoemaker from China

deskgram.co

Actually, l saw a new shoe my bespoke maker is making for him. That's how l found out about him.

 

[The Shooman]

Now here are shoes that get me excited. These shoes are awesome quality. Fantastic pairs!!!

Norvegese constructed limited edition Santoni. A 2,500 euro price tag, but well worth it for the quality.

Bentivegna constructed limited edition Santoni. A bargain at 1,700 euro imo.

A friend is sending me out a pair of limited editions soon.

 

[walker]

Yes indeed, he's a big fan of Antonio Meccariello and I believe he's an investor in Josh Leong (the Singaporean shoemaker) and a bespoke tailor. Recently been trying out some Chinese bespoke makers as well.

he is part of the seamless bespoke venture, where josh leong is part of. iirc, it is a group of four or five people.

he gathers most of the sample shoes from the makers they are testing. with a UK 9 he is ideal to get a grip for sizing outside the usual asian size bracket. he has some japanese bespoke for himself, but mostly deals with mto and/or rtw offers. he is also a flipper and people are happy to buy from him.

 

[fxh]

I heard today that the Alma Group, which owns Avel, which owns Saphir, amongst other brands, has purchased Australian brand Wapro, which also owns Joseph Lyddy. Haven’t been able to confirm it yet.

 

[The Shooman]

.............

 

[Grand Potentate]

 

[ASSHAT]

he is part of the seamless bespoke venture, where josh leong is part of. iirc, it is a group of four or five people.

he gathers most of the sample shoes from the makers they are testing. with a UK 9 he is ideal to get a grip for sizing outside the usual asian size bracket. he has some japanese bespoke for himself, but mostly deals with mto and/or rtw offers. he is also a flipper and people are happy to buy from him.

ololo, who are you trying to fool? Seamless is a bespoke tailor operating out of Kansas City haberdashers Houndstooth. His name btw is Ethan Parrish : https://www.dressedwell.net/threads/seamless-behind-the-lies.2262/

you are talking about some chinaman that you were DMing with on SF (good read btw), another failed venture on your part, up there with the Gus shilling failure.

now get out your shine box boy, some hungarian prostis have some scuffed red patent leather boots under your bench that need some work.

 

[Grand Potentate]

The Shooman you see this?

The Problem with Saphir Renovateur

Saphir’s Medaille d’Or Renovateur has been called “liquid gold.” Men who are obsessive about their shoes often recommend it as the...

putthison.com

 

[The Shooman]

The Shooman you see this?

The Problem with Saphir Renovateur

Saphir’s Medaille d’Or Renovateur has been called “liquid gold.” Men who are obsessive about their shoes often recommend it as the...

putthison.com

Yes Rambo, i've been telling everyone lately to throw out their Saphir renovateur. I don't even use it anymore. The products of `Boot Black' are far superior,especially when `rich moisture', `two face plus lotion' and`artists palette' are used. Using `high shine base' and `high shine coat' is also very good.

The renovateur has a solvent and it should never be put on a shoe and left there for a couple of minutes. The man needed to walk to the door polishing his shoe because not doing so was going to be a problem if he didn't rub it in straight away.

Igents don't know what they are talking about. I knew something was up with renovateur years ago, and so did others. In fact some cobblers refused to stock Saphir in their shop. But people continue to buy this white paste in record numbers. I just say to them all, chuck the stuff out!!!

There is also my results on shell cordovan. After using renovateur my shell used to dry out after about a week and get like this. None of those igent methods ever worked for Vass shell cordovan, it still remained dry as old bones.


but then l discovered `boot black' and now my shell cordovan looks like this. I invented a whole new method of shell cordovan polishing that is able to bring the most stubborn shells to high shines. It's all about moisturising the shoe and creating layers and not so much about the wax. Some say to not use polish, but that's a bunch of tosh. Shells can get dry.

 

[The Shooman]

I finally achieved my 16 year dream and received the best rtw shoos in the world. I've always wanted to know what it was like to be one of the few who walk the Earth in Silvano Lattanzi, and let me just say that it is a special feeling. They fit fantastic too and the craftsmanship and quality is just WOW. They are up there with the world's top bespoke in craftsmanship and quality. It was a truly special day when l got them.

I love having shoos that few igents have. It really is a special club to belong to. It makes my John Lobb, Edward Green and Gaziano & Girlings look so ordinary compared to these. I love having such a masterpiece on my feet and knowing most people will never know what they are, and nor would they be able to understand or comprehend how good they are, same goes when l wear my 6 ply cashmere Ballantyne cardigan or my 4 ply Ballantyne intarsia, same type of feeling. It's something special just for me.



and lets make no mistake, they are truly elitists shoos. These are NOT shoos for normal people, they are shoos for the most hard core connoisseurs and for the elites. I am the former, but wow, what a feeling wearing them.


Are Silvano Lattanzi overpriced? You bet they are. $3,500 USD would be more reasonable a price to pay, but not the $6,000 they are currently asking for their cheapest dress shoes, that is almost $9,000 ASD. OUCH! It makes me appreciate Vass shoes so much, they are really good shoes at a fraction of the price. But if you want something great like Santoni Bentivegna or Lattanzi, the price needs to be paid.

 

[walker]

ololo, who are you trying to fool? Seamless is a bespoke tailor operating out of Kansas City haberdashers Houndstooth. His name btw is Ethan Parrish : https://www.dressedwell.net/threads/seamless-behind-the-lies.2262/

I was talking about this one: https://seamlessbespoke.com/?fbclid...64BR1kz92wPbsWXPHhZMDSsJUZI3HkA_mcb8index.php

obviously, you should know this, if you were in the loop of the DMing back then, anyway. I'm sure they told you about building a trap, so it would be easier for them to chicken out.

you are talking about some chinaman that you were DMing with on SF (good read btw), another failed venture on your part, up there with the Gus shilling failure.

actually, you should also know, that none of these were my ventures, right? I've been kindly asked to do some translation and trouble shooting. the trouble shooting failed, correct. the company decided to drive the projects on the wall. it was their decision. the rest is history.

ps: nevertheless, my opinion on gus stays strong. of course, he doesn't need me, so do I. the whole san fran crowd is spoiled. not worth to invest an ounce of time for these kind of people. ethics, you know? just kidding. why should you. trash flocks together, no worries.

Grand Potentate actually, this particular exchange adds nothing to the value of this thread. so feel free to vanish it, whenever you want, thank you.

 

[shookt]

ololo, who are you trying to fool? Seamless is a bespoke tailor operating out of Kansas City haberdashers Houndstooth. His name btw is Ethan Parrish : https://www.dressedwell.net/threads/seamless-behind-the-lies.2262/

Lol you got the wrong website. Seamless bespoke is based in Singapore. Which, by the way, is also not part of China. I’ve heard the store staff are really snobby.

 

[shookt]

Actually, l saw a new shoe my bespoke maker is making for him. That's how l found out about him.

Which pair?

 

[Kingstonian]

Trumps overshoes make the Daily Mail

Donald Trump arrives at Davos summit in Swiss Alps wearing SNOW grips

The President arrived at the annual Switzerland gathering of the world's political and business elite sporting what appeared to be a rubber cover over his usual black brogues.

www.dailymail.co.uk

Galoshes are more of a North American thing than European. Trump might have more problems on icy areas if he was wearing ski boots but he could use the skis for balance.

I wish I could still afford to go to Davos. Jump on the plane at Heathrow. Your luggage gets sent ahead to the hotel and you go from Zurich airport to the resort on a very nice train journey.

 

[The Shooman]

Trumps overshoes make the Daily Mail

Donald Trump arrives at Davos summit in Swiss Alps wearing SNOW grips

The President arrived at the annual Switzerland gathering of the world's political and business elite sporting what appeared to be a rubber cover over his usual black brogues.

www.dailymail.co.uk

Good find. Trump wasn't wearing overshoes, they were actual shoes. Trump normally wears beautiful elegant Italian Artioli blake or bologna stitched shoes,and they are not the best shoes for snowy weather. I always keep a close eye on Trump's beautiful footwear....I have for years.

Which pair?

I have been asked not to reveal the maker at this stage because he wants limited clients at the moment. If l told you the pair you would know who the maker is. The bespoke maker is very good and had the best training at some of the top places.

 

[Kingstonian]

Getting into speculation that the Donald wears elevator shoes which cause him to lean forward. Even more incredible is the claim that he wears size 12 instead of his size 8 because it looks better in proportion to the rest of him.

Google it. Sounds like nonsense to me.

 

[fxh]

Google it. Sounds like nonsense to me.

So. Pure Trump then.

 

[The Shooman]

Kirby's bespoke Foster & Sons. 16 spi on the soles.

Road tested

 

[The Shooman]

I finally achieved my 16 year dream and received the best rtw shoos in the world. I've always wanted to know what it was like to be one of the few who walk the Earth in Silvano Lattanzi, and let me just say that it is a special feeling. They fit fantastic too and the craftsmanship and quality is just WOW. They are up there with the world's top bespoke in craftsmanship and quality. It was a truly special day when l got them.

I love having shoos that few igents have. It really is a special club to belong to. It makes my John Lobb, Edward Green and Gaziano & Girlings look so ordinary compared to these. I love having such a masterpiece on my feet and knowing most people will never know what they are, and nor would they be able to understand or comprehend how good they are, same goes when l wear my 6 ply cashmere Ballantyne cardigan or my 4 ply Ballantyne intarsia, same type of feeling. It's something special just for me.



and lets make no mistake, they are truly elitists shoos. These are NOT shoos for normal people, they are shoos for the most hard core connoisseurs and for the elites. I am the former, but wow, what a feeling wearing them.


Are Silvano Lattanzi overpriced? You bet they are. $3,500 USD would be more reasonable a price to pay, but not the $6,000 they are currently asking for their cheapest dress shoes, that is almost $9,000 ASD. OUCH! It makes me appreciate Vass shoes so much, they are really good shoes at a fraction of the price. But if you want something great like Santoni Bentivegna or Lattanzi, the price needs to be paid.

Silvano Lattanzi shoes- experience report

All my life l searched for a shoe that would finally satisfy my desires, and no shoes ever did until l experienced Vass. It always offered the ultimate shoe experience, and not even bespokes offered `the experience'. Vass has the solidness yet softness that made a man feel like a man, and is was impossible to imagine anything better to wear on the feet because it felt like the ultimate dream shoe. The best thing about Vass is the feel of the shoe on the foot, especially that solidness that comes at the heel area which makes one feel like a King because it is so authoritative.

Then comes along Lattanzi. It feels like nothing else, it is in a league of it's own. The solidness and authoritativeness is unequaled. The heel is extra solid, and the shoes make a unique and loud clip clop noise like no other shoes do. They also have a unique Italian tan antique Lattanzi is famous for...something i've always wanted but never seen in any shoes. The colour is amazing in person. The shoos also have presence, they look really special like no other shoes l have, and lots of fine details. The stitching of the soles is very refined with high spi that can hardly be seen. The stitching of the uppers is extraordinary. Lattanzi is the ultimate shoo!

Dimpled insoles (rare in shoes)
- indicative of the inseaming pulling against the hand carved feather. I love dimpled insoles.
- indeed the inseaming is perfectly done, so solid and perfect and done like many bespokes don't equal. No inseaming can be seen. The upper is attached perfectly to the welt. The welt is beautiful.
- the gracefulness of the sole sewing is done more finely than one of the world's top sole sewers from a famous bespoke house.
- seamless back (a nice touch)
- bevelled waist (a nice touch)


Lattanzi has about 25 shoe makers. I think they are very highly trained to do such good work. I think they make about 2,500 shoes per year.

 

[shookt]

New burgundy shoes to usher in the Lunar New Year - simple and solid plain toe bluchers with AH high toe box for ultimate comfort.

 

[The Shooman]

New burgundy shoes to usher in the Lunar New Year - simple and solid plain toe bluchers with AH high toe box for ultimate comfort. View attachment 33126

Bespoke or MTM, or did you measure yourself (i've forgotten)? It looks like a very relaxed fit.

Nice style,plain toe derby is one of the best of all. I think a double sole could have been good with these, and even goiser construction in white stitching could have been good to contrast the flashy burgundy colour.

Can l ask how much do they cost?

 

[shookt]

It was supposed to be goiser stitched in black but sadly the shoemaker forgot - I'm ok with it though, they wear really really nicely. The fit is actually quite snug, The only area of play is I can wiggle my toes freely. These are MTM, measured by them, so not full bespoke. My shoes usually have gaping at the mouth area because of flat footedness but not in this pair.

 

[The Shooman]

It was supposed to be goiser stitched in black but sadly the shoemaker forgot - I'm ok with it though, they wear really really nicely. The fit is actually quite snug, The only area of play is I can wiggle my toes freely. These are MTM, measured by them, so not full bespoke. My shoes usually have gaping at the mouth area because of flat footedness but not in this pair.

I am really happy to read this. There is nothing better than when a bloke is really happy with his shoes. I even appreciate blokes who are right into Allen Edmonds, it makes me so happy to see men into decent factory shoe.

Here are a bunch of dags getting together to polish shoos, but no matter how daggy these guys are, they are just a bunch blokes hanging out and having some fun. Those AE club guys are cult like and come across as weird, but they are probably good guys, and they love their shoes, and l am happy for them. Even their wives are looking on them proud, and probably glad that they have finally got some friends (just teasing).

LOCAL MEET-UP FOR THE ALLEN EDMONDS ENTHUSIASTS MEET-UP & SHINE: San Diego, CA 12/28/19

Elegant Oxford is a Clothing & Apparel Project Offering Premium Shoe Restorations, Patinas, & Artisan Shines for Quality Men’s Shoes.If you have any question...

www.youtube.com

My shoes usually have gaping at the mouth area because of flat footedness but not in this pair.

I completely understand the problem. Recently my arch has sunken alittle and my foot has pushed out and caused some gaping at the mouth area on various pairs of factory shoes. It is not evident on the handmade ones, only the machine constructed pairs. The handmades can have more arch support built in and it holds the foot better in place so there is less rolling of the foot, but not everyone can wear them, especially flat footed humans.