fxh
OG Party Suit Wearer
- Messages
- 8,573
Called a Boot Jack. Easy to make yourself.
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I think Tibor riding the bus says everything.I spoke to Tibor recently and asked him a series of questions. He wears his formal attire everyday regardless of the surroundings, even on the bus. He also wears it to work (he doesn't do law enforcement anymore). Same with this Andy bloke at S.F, he even wears a dinner jacket every Friday and wore it to Cosco. These lads don't care what anyone thinks, they just do their own thing.
Thruth I reckon you should wear tails and a to hat to work, see how it goes. You'd certainly look like a big daddy then.
I have one of these.RMW make some airport friendly plastic shanks in a range of styles. Being elastic sided, as we call Chelsea’s, they are also easy to slip on and off.
Here elastic sided boots, correct pronunciation ‘lastic, are largely seen as country or work boots.
Thats not strictly true as a well fitting pair of RMWs can be very hard to get off. And we would have a special boot remover on the veranda on a farm to take off boots. I’ll post a pic if I can find one. Essentially just a bit of widish, not too thick plank wood with a big V cut in the end to grip your heel and pull.
how does this thing work?I have one of these.
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how does this thing work?
The best of Philippe Atienza:
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And the worst:
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I've always liked Lobb's pewter, especially on a Philip II.
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I think it is correct to say you hanged Indians - not hung them.Too bad you cannot do basic fact finding. Get it right, we hung Indians.
An oft overlooked reality.The problem with bespoke makers, often times the customer's taste is inversely proportional to his wealth. The maker has no say in what is being commissioned and you end up with atrocities like that. That's why I just tend to talk about the level of craftsmanship displayed by shoemakers and not really the style of what they are asked to make.
ooooooh
I have Cheaney, Barker Handcrafted, and Loake. My Loakes are 1880's apart from the Wadhams above. They only have half an insole. I would like to try the Legacy or Export grade.I am a fan of both Loake and Cheaney ( the brands in the pics). I have one Shoemaker, the Thames semi-brogue. A great shoe. About 13 years old and in great shape. Topeyed from day 1.A pic from the net. But the same condition as mine.
So, which one are you wearing today?I decided to break out a pair of dark brown Oxfords today. I recently acquired two pairs at different price brackets. I usually have Loake 1880's, but these from the Shoemaker range were in the sale.
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I went Cheaney, the half inner sole is irritating on the Loake. I was going to pick up a pair of insoles but forgot. I have no idea why the insole doesn't cover the toe box...So, which one are you wearing today?
It's actually more frequent to have a half insole than a whole one, but, as you say, you can easily fix it.I went Cheaney, the half inner sole is irritating on the Loake. I was going to pick up a pair of insoles but forgot. I have no idea why the insole doesn't cover the toe box...
This pisses me off so much. I have almost no shoe where the maker has extended the sock liner up until the front. Except Edward Green who use a very nice, thick liner on top. Vass, too. Every other shoo I can think of at the moment at any price point: no.I went Cheaney, the half inner sole is irritating on the Loake. I was going to pick up a pair of insoles but forgot. I have no idea why the insole doesn't cover the toe box...
Don't get me started, most RTW makers are all about cutting corners. Sometimes it's just silly, like when it comes to heel stiffeners, some brands don't feel like using celastic is cheap enough, they have to use the cheapest celastic available. I mean, I get it, it's all about economies of scale and all that shit but too many makers are just going too far.This pisses me off so much. I have almost no shoe where the maker has extended the sock liner up until the front. Except Edward Green who use a very nice, thick liner on top. Vass, too. Every other shoo I can think of at the moment at any price point: no.
is it so difficult to invest €5 more in a shoo?
Yes, and we are talking about high-range ready-to-wear shoes, not cheap, industrial ones. It's a shame that prestigious brands use plastic in their products.I mean, I get it, it's all about economies of scale and all that shit but too many makers are just going too far.
I had to check on this. Loake has half insole with writing on it. After that seems to be leather with a leather stamp visible. Trickers similar. Crockett and Jones handgrade the insole extends the length of the shoe.It's actually more frequent to have a half insole than a whole one, but, as you say, you can easily fix it.
With cheap industrial ones it’s sometimes hilarious. Like they boast about the durability of Goodyear and all the usual shit but they cut corners on others things and it negates what they might have done well. For example let’s take a brand like Meermin, they go to the trouble of using real leather bends for their heel block while salpa is the more cost effective measure (a cobbler can easily replace a heel block anyway). They also use fairly thick insoles (for their price range) and boast about it. All that is just fine, but the celastic they use is among the cheapest in the industry. Down the line who cares if you have the best heel block in your price range if the celastic you use is shit. It’ll rot away or break long before any other part of the shoe. It might make sense to them from a business/economic point of view, but from the build quality… it’s debatable.Yes, and we are talking about high-range ready-to-wear shoes, not cheap, industrial ones. It's a shame that prestigious brands use plastic in their products.
Well, more than debatable I find it contradictory, deceiving and shameful.but from the build quality… it’s debatable.
Thanks, I wasn't aware of what salpa is.Oh yeah I am pretty sure Vass uses salpa for the heel stiffeners. On their heel blocks they used to have full leather bends and now they also went to salpa. Salpa = leather board it's just a different name for it if some people were wondering.
Exactly! And those brands command prices over €500, it's an affront.is it so difficult to invest €5 more in a shoo?
Never, ever, look inside a pair of Corthay RTW. it's at least twice that much for a build quality similar to Carmina.Exactly! And those brands command prices over €500, it's an affront.
Of course, €500 upwards, with few exceptions.Never, ever, look inside a pair of Corthay RTW. it's at least twice that much for a build quality similar to Carmina.
As well as the toe cap.The cost of rebuilding leather heels with my cobbler is about €40, I estimate. What I‘m more concerned with is if they use leather inside as a heel stiffener as it is an irreplaceable part.
For me it's not about durability (even though it's obviously important), but, as you say, about having an authentic, natural material in my shoes, especially, as already said, at those price points. John Lobb, Edward Green, Gaziano&Girling all put their price tags above €1,000, so I think they have a sufficient margin to afford a small, great enhancement such as the use of exclusively natural and worthy materials. If it were not the case (I highly doubt it) and their margin is too slim, I'd be glad to pay the eventual surcharge.As much as I would like a natural, authentic material on my toe caps, I’ll admit: I’ve never had any problems with the durability of them.
+100
Yes, it is easy to mess things up if you don't know what you are doing. Those casual leathers would have been better on a wide welted brogue and not a slick dress shoe, it doesn't match.The problem with bespoke makers, often times the customer's taste is inversely proportional to his wealth. The maker has no say in what is being commissioned and you end up with atrocities like that. That's why I just tend to talk about the level of craftsmanship displayed by shoemakers and not really the style of what they are asked to make.
Oh yeah I am pretty sure Vass uses salpa for the heel stiffeners. On their heel blocks they used to have full leather bends and now they also went to salpa. Salpa = leather board it's just a different name for it if some people were wondering.
My footwear for tomorrow. Herring Phillip II by Alfred Sargent.