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Clinch are about the pinnacle of hand made engineer boots. The jodhpurs are also nice, but strike an uneasy balance between work and formal to me:
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Now, I am not as much of a "shooman" as Shooey, but I have pairs from John Lobb Paris, Berluti, Edward Green, Vass, Santoni, Ferragamo's "Tramezza" line, and a couple of other upper-tier places. I also have shoes from C&J, Sargent, Cheaney, Carmina and (the horror!) even Loake and Meermin.
Clinch are about the pinnacle of hand made engineer boots. The jodhpurs are also nice, but strike an easy balance between work and formal to me:
Clinch are about the pinnacle of hand made engineer boots. The jodhpurs are also nice, but strike an easy balance between work and formal to me:
Honestly not a fan of this somehow hybrid style. The sole is too thick for the rather sleek last and the height of the shaft appears odd, not to mention that cowboy heel. In my opinion the Jodhpur style is more suitable for dress or slightly casual boots.
Here two models from John Lobb London and John Lobb Paris:
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Lucky you for getting an answer so quickly. I sent them an email a few days ago to see what they could tell me about their lasts and if they had an opinion on the size I should get.... still no answers. What's their average answering time? If they don't answer I get why they might not be doing so hot, they would miss an easy sell.Update on the heel stiffeners which Vass uses: I have asked Vivien specifically about whether they used Celastic heel stiffeners as I felt it hurt my feet for quite some time rather badly until broken in - she was evasive in response but kindly offered to be able to “add it with leather”. I suppose this means attaching a small piece of leather. I’ll see what it will look like when they arrive.
Nevertheless, it seems that Vass is actually using Celastic heel stiffener. Not great and undeserving of their fantastic shoes.
Tampa, May 27.—A new method of evading prohibition agents was revealed here today by A.L. Allen, state prohibition enforcement director, who displayed what he called a "cow shoe" as the latest thing from the haunts of moonshiners.
The cow shoe is a strip of metal to which is tacked a wooden block carved to resemble the hoof of a cow, which may be strapped to the human foot. A man shod with a pair of them would leave a trail resembling that of a cow.
The shoe found was picked up near Port Tampa where a still was located some time ago. It will be sent to the prohibition department at Washington. Officers believe the inventor got his idea from a Sherlock Holmes story in which the villain shod his horse with shoes the imprint of which resembled those of a cow's hoof.
Does anybody know the legend of Tuczek?
From Italian "Cavalleresco Ordine dei Guardiani delle Nove Porte" 's blog:
Among the great London boots and shoemakers such as Peal & Co, a company founded in 1791 to which the Duke of Windsor remained loyal since his youth (see Notes n ° 5947 and 5948 at the ancient Castle in the clothing notebook), Nikolaus Tuczek Ltd active in Oxford Street since 1853, and John Lobb present in London since 1886 with the opening of the first store in Regent Street, the one which has not yet been spoken about on these pages, as before at the Castle. is Tuczek. The latter is considered by experts in the sector, by historians of men's clothing and by collectors a real legend both for the unsurpassed quality of the footwear, due to the extremely accurate construction and fine leathers, and for the refined aesthetic component given by the line and from the drawing. Tuczek was founded by Nikolaus Tuczek, son of a family of Austro-Hungarian immigrants, who opened his first shop in London at 24 Arthur Street in 1853. It remained active until 1969, when it was absorbed by Jhon Lobb who inherited together with the equipment, materials and footwear still in production also part of the vast clientele, represented by members of the aristocracy as well as the political and economic world. both British and international. His shoes, especially those dating back to the 30s-40s, sometimes still admirable on the feet of some gentleman who inherited them from his father or from other Tuczek client relatives, are considered real masterpieces, studied by other shoemakers and cult object by enthusiasts and collectors. Among the most representative characteristics of these shoes are an extremely slim and clean line with a toe that, due to the harmony of the proportions, is defined by many as "sculpted", the presence on the front (cap-toe) of finely chiseled medallions and the existence in the production of original models with elastic side gussets, associated or not with a false lacing. This last type of footwear, characterized by the ease of being easily put on and removed, is also present in the production of John Lobb who adopted it in honor of Tuczek. George Cleverley (1898- 1991), considered one of the best shoemakers of the second half of the twentieth century, began his career in 1920 at Tuczek where he remained for 38 years before setting up his own business, opening his shop in Cork Street in 1958. Mayfair neighborhood. Cleverley brought back in his production techniques and drawings learned at Tuczek, including the characteristic models with elastic inserts and the finely chiseled medallions to decorate the front of the shoes. The first photo shows a pair of crocodile leather tassel moccasins probably from the 1960s, which belonged to Alexis von Rosenberg-Redé, third Baron de Redé. Baron de Redé (1922-2004), son of Oskar Adolf Rosenberg-Redé famous Austro-Hungarian banker appointed in 1916 baron by Emperor Charles I of Austria, can be considered as one of the last great European aesthetes and one of the men most elegant of the twentieth century. He moved to the USA at the age of 18 due to the Nazi persecution and in 1946 he returned to Europe together with the painter Salvador Dali ', with whom he had a very long association, settling in Paris. Here he lived in the ground floor apartments of the seventeenth-century Hotel Lambert on the island of Saint-Louis, starting the restoration which was later completed by Baron Guy de Rothschild and his wife Marie-Hélène following their purchase of the entire building in 1975.
Refined homosexual, thanks to the fact that he became the lover of the very wealthy Chilean industrialist Arturo Lopez-Wilshaw from whom he had a considerable prerogative in life and half of the inheritance at his death, he represented one of the points of reference starting immediately after the war of the social, artistic and cultural life of Paris (note his friendship with Jean Cocteau), acquiring wide fame for his luxurious masquerade parties, including the legendary Bal Oriental held at the Hotel Lambert on December 5, 1969. The Hotel Lambert was decorated for the occasion on the theme of the Thousand and One Nights, and in his rooms there were scents of myrrh and jasmine. Two enormous papier-mache elephants adorned the courtyard, while two Hindu musicians and sixteen men, dressed as Nubian slaves holding torches, were placed on the entrance staircase; de Redé himself wore a Mughal prince costume made by Pierre Cardin. Thanks to the relationships established in these festivals, which saw the participation not only of exponents of the European aristocracy including the Dukes of Windsor but also of important representatives of the world of finance, culture, fashion (Pierre Cardin and Yves Saint Laurent were launched by de Redé), of cinema and of what we now define as the international jet set, de Redé was able to expand its already considerable assets with fruitful investments. The next two images (second and third photos) give us a testimony of Alexis de Redé's elegance: the first, dating back to 1968, shows him in Paris in a magnificent gray morning suit and top hat together with Maria Callas, Liz taylor and Richard Burton; in the second we see him in his apartments at the Lambert Hotel wearing a dark suit with a double-breasted "Duke of Kent" jacket. After the death of Tuczek, Baron de Redè became a client of George Cleverley, in whose collection there is a model of tassel loafers called De Redé (fourth photo), testifying to the Baron's predilection for this type of footwear.
View attachment 37494View attachment 37495
The following photos show some models produced by Tuczek, most of which are owned by an English collector who inherited them from his uncle. The models date back to a vast period between 1938 and 1969 as detectable, when still clearly evident, from the branded labels inside the shoes bearing the address of the headquarters which was from 1938 to 1966 at 17 Clifford Street ( fifth photo) and from 1966 to 1969 at 21 Jermyn Street (sixth photo). This last labeling belongs to a pair of wholecut oxfords in blue suede (seventh photo) which therefore can be dated between 1966 and 1969. In the photos from the eighth to the seventeenth are respectively portrayed:
single strap monks in chocolate brown suede,
side gusset slips on black lizard,
side gussets slips on brown crocodile,
side gusset full brogues with false black lizard laces,
half brogue oxfords in brown calfskin,
full brogue oxfords in black calfskin,
full brogue oxfords in black calfskin,
full brogue derbys with two holes in brown calfskin,
half brogue spectators white and brown,
full brogue spectators white and brown.
Which reminds me, Jon Snow of Channel 4 news has just retired.Loake L1. Loake's cheapest shoe. Worn regularly for 13 years.View attachment 37551
I have just trade marked the name. We are relaunching next year!Does anybody know the legend of Tuczek?
From Italian "Cavalleresco Ordine dei Guardiani delle Nove Porte" 's blog:
Among the great London boots and shoemakers such as Peal & Co, a company founded in 1791 to which the Duke of Windsor remained loyal since his youth (see Notes n ° 5947 and 5948 at the ancient Castle in the clothing notebook), Nikolaus Tuczek Ltd active in Oxford Street since 1853, and John Lobb present in London since 1886 with the opening of the first store in Regent Street, the one which has not yet been spoken about on these pages, as before at the Castle. is Tuczek. The latter is considered by experts in the sector, by historians of men's clothing and by collectors a real legend both for the unsurpassed quality of the footwear, due to the extremely accurate construction and fine leathers, and for the refined aesthetic component given by the line and from the drawing. Tuczek was founded by Nikolaus Tuczek, son of a family of Austro-Hungarian immigrants, who opened his first shop in London at 24 Arthur Street in 1853. It remained active until 1969, when it was absorbed by Jhon Lobb who inherited together with the equipment, materials and footwear still in production also part of the vast clientele, represented by members of the aristocracy as well as the political and economic world. both British and international. His shoes, especially those dating back to the 30s-40s, sometimes still admirable on the feet of some gentleman who inherited them from his father or from other Tuczek client relatives, are considered real masterpieces, studied by other shoemakers and cult object by enthusiasts and collectors. Among the most representative characteristics of these shoes are an extremely slim and clean line with a toe that, due to the harmony of the proportions, is defined by many as "sculpted", the presence on the front (cap-toe) of finely chiseled medallions and the existence in the production of original models with elastic side gussets, associated or not with a false lacing. This last type of footwear, characterized by the ease of being easily put on and removed, is also present in the production of John Lobb who adopted it in honor of Tuczek. George Cleverley (1898- 1991), considered one of the best shoemakers of the second half of the twentieth century, began his career in 1920 at Tuczek where he remained for 38 years before setting up his own business, opening his shop in Cork Street in 1958. Mayfair neighborhood. Cleverley brought back in his production techniques and drawings learned at Tuczek, including the characteristic models with elastic inserts and the finely chiseled medallions to decorate the front of the shoes. The first photo shows a pair of crocodile leather tassel moccasins probably from the 1960s, which belonged to Alexis von Rosenberg-Redé, third Baron de Redé. Baron de Redé (1922-2004), son of Oskar Adolf Rosenberg-Redé famous Austro-Hungarian banker appointed in 1916 baron by Emperor Charles I of Austria, can be considered as one of the last great European aesthetes and one of the men most elegant of the twentieth century. He moved to the USA at the age of 18 due to the Nazi persecution and in 1946 he returned to Europe together with the painter Salvador Dali ', with whom he had a very long association, settling in Paris. Here he lived in the ground floor apartments of the seventeenth-century Hotel Lambert on the island of Saint-Louis, starting the restoration which was later completed by Baron Guy de Rothschild and his wife Marie-Hélène following their purchase of the entire building in 1975.
Refined homosexual, thanks to the fact that he became the lover of the very wealthy Chilean industrialist Arturo Lopez-Wilshaw from whom he had a considerable prerogative in life and half of the inheritance at his death, he represented one of the points of reference starting immediately after the war of the social, artistic and cultural life of Paris (note his friendship with Jean Cocteau), acquiring wide fame for his luxurious masquerade parties, including the legendary Bal Oriental held at the Hotel Lambert on December 5, 1969. The Hotel Lambert was decorated for the occasion on the theme of the Thousand and One Nights, and in his rooms there were scents of myrrh and jasmine. Two enormous papier-mache elephants adorned the courtyard, while two Hindu musicians and sixteen men, dressed as Nubian slaves holding torches, were placed on the entrance staircase; de Redé himself wore a Mughal prince costume made by Pierre Cardin. Thanks to the relationships established in these festivals, which saw the participation not only of exponents of the European aristocracy including the Dukes of Windsor but also of important representatives of the world of finance, culture, fashion (Pierre Cardin and Yves Saint Laurent were launched by de Redé), of cinema and of what we now define as the international jet set, de Redé was able to expand its already considerable assets with fruitful investments. The next two images (second and third photos) give us a testimony of Alexis de Redé's elegance: the first, dating back to 1968, shows him in Paris in a magnificent gray morning suit and top hat together with Maria Callas, Liz taylor and Richard Burton; in the second we see him in his apartments at the Lambert Hotel wearing a dark suit with a double-breasted "Duke of Kent" jacket. After the death of Tuczek, Baron de Redè became a client of George Cleverley, in whose collection there is a model of tassel loafers called De Redé (fourth photo), testifying to the Baron's predilection for this type of footwear.
View attachment 37494View attachment 37495
The following photos show some models produced by Tuczek, most of which are owned by an English collector who inherited them from his uncle. The models date back to a vast period between 1938 and 1969 as detectable, when still clearly evident, from the branded labels inside the shoes bearing the address of the headquarters which was from 1938 to 1966 at 17 Clifford Street ( fifth photo) and from 1966 to 1969 at 21 Jermyn Street (sixth photo). This last labeling belongs to a pair of wholecut oxfords in blue suede (seventh photo) which therefore can be dated between 1966 and 1969. In the photos from the eighth to the seventeenth are respectively portrayed:
single strap monks in chocolate brown suede,
side gusset slips on black lizard,
side gussets slips on brown crocodile,
side gusset full brogues with false black lizard laces,
half brogue oxfords in brown calfskin,
full brogue oxfords in black calfskin,
full brogue oxfords in black calfskin,
full brogue derbys with two holes in brown calfskin,
half brogue spectators white and brown,
full brogue spectators white and brown.
View attachment 37496View attachment 37497View attachment 37498View attachment 37499View attachment 37500View attachment 37501View attachment 37502View attachment 37503View attachment 37504View attachment 37505
Which reminds me, Jon Snow of Channel 4 news has just retired.
Jon Snow's latest blogpost grapples with socks and ties
The newsreader turns his attention to the thorny subject of socks and tieswww.theguardian.com
He's probably right. A good newsreader.Which reminds me, Jon Snow of Channel 4 news has just retired.
Jon Snow's latest blogpost grapples with socks and ties
The newsreader turns his attention to the thorny subject of socks and tieswww.theguardian.com
I thought he was a red sock wearing leftie.He's probably right. A good newsreader.
Journeyman well well well....I am completely shocked at what l am reading here. You own Vass, BIG Johnny Lobb, Edward Green and Berluti??? Where did you get those from? I never knew you owned shoos like that. You really are a quiet achiever...climbing that shoo ladder quietly in secret. I never dreamed you were at that type of level. I thought you were at the C&J and Loaske level, and yet here you are swimming around at higher levels.
Does anybody know the legend of Tuczek?
I thought he was a red sock wearing leftie.
Occasionally, pairs of Tuczek shoes come up for sale on eBay or other sites and, according to what I read on StyleForum back at the time, bidding can be quite fierce. I'd be surprised if people are actually wearing pairs of century-old boots that were made for other people's feet, so I assume that they must just be collecting them to look at.
I have actually bid a couple of times on ebay for tuczek'. Just out of curiosity. I was going to wear them anyway but I have always found his last gorgeous. What I do is put a sniper bid for a low amount to see what happens. From memory they sell around USD 300/400. Some of them in dreadful shape. This guy buys them, restores and uses them.I've had a pair of Edward Greens for about 20 years, with another couple of pairs picked up about 10-12 years ago. The JL Paris are about 15 years old, Ferragamo Tramezza, Santoni and Berluti about 10-11 years old, Vass about nine or ten years old.
I remember there was a bit of chatter about Nicholas Tuczek on StyleForum a number of years back.
Occasionally, pairs of Tuczek shoes come up for sale on eBay or other sites and, according to what I read on StyleForum back at the time, bidding can be quite fierce. I'd be surprised if people are actually wearing pairs of century-old boots that were made for other people's feet, so I assume that they must just be collecting them to look at.
About time too...he has very young wife doesn't he?Which reminds me, Jon Snow of Channel 4 news has just retired.
Jon Snow's latest blogpost grapples with socks and ties
The newsreader turns his attention to the thorny subject of socks and tieswww.theguardian.com
Before Jon Snow, Channel 4 & Co. became an opinionated spin on the news and fully paid for propaganda show, I considered getting some Victoria Richards ties. But why would you buy a tie that looks like a Rothko reproduction in miniature that you wear around your neck?
what about this story? Shoes made out human skin.... https://www.roadsideamerica.com/story/14910Interersting. Let's have more shoo-related stories like this.
Good one.
I have actually bid a couple of times on ebay for tuczek'. Just out of curiosity. I was going to wear them anyway but I have always found his last gorgeous. What I do is put a sniper bid for a low amount to see what happens. From memory they sell around USD 300/400. Some of them in dreadful shape. This guy buys them, restores and uses them.
This Korean re-lasted a pair of Lattanzi. I prefer how they looked before, but still interesting.
Unsure if it's the same guy that has http://centipede.web.fc2.com/ Shooey do you remember the name?This guy on Instagram has an enviable shoe collection. Cleverley, Foster & Son, Lattanzi, etc.
This is far from the entirety of a collection which must have cost him several hundred thousand.
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Unsure if it's the same guy that has http://centipede.web.fc2.com/ Shooey do you remember the name?
Pretty incredible, this gentleman assesses he has shrunken the size of these shoes from a British 11 to a 9 1/2. Honestly I struggle to believe that something like this is possible: he says to have reduced length and width. Moreover he has dyed that pair, a Gaziano&Girling Hayes, originally in a caramel shade, as he says, probably Vintage Pine,
You're right, I haven't controlled.Not that it really matters, but that looks more like the Hanley. The Hayes is different. It has a floating medallion.
Impressive work.