The Canvas: A Proper-Fitting Shirt

Thruth

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Now how did I know you would say that?
 

cond

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Sartodinapoli Sartodinapoli , are you familiar with Paris Custom Shirtmakers in New York?



HOW CAN YOU INSULT SARTODINAZOLI WITH SUCH TACKY UNSHIRTS.
IT IS OBVIOUS NO RELIGIOUS MAN WOULD EVER WANT TO WEAR THAT.
FIRST UNSHIRT HAS NO ARMS. OBVIOUSLY SCAM.

SECOND UNSHIRT IS A FRANKENSHIRT.

IN NEAPLES YOU WOULD BE PUT TO DEATH FOR THAT.
 

Russell Street

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NO MAN HAS BICEPS LIKE THAT.
Wrong.
double-arm-transplant-before.jpg
 

Thruth

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Been thinking about this for a while. For those of you that get bespoke or MTM shirts how much attention do you pay to the quality of the fabric?

That is, are you concerned by which fabric maker is chosen and the level of refinement of the fabric?

The more I think about it the less concerned I am about fabric as long as the shirt fits well.

how much time do you spend choosing fabric for your shirts beyond the basics of fabric type and colour?
 

doghouse

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That's kind of an open ended question. It depends on any number of factors really. Sometimes I have a fabric I want made into a shirt, so obviously I pay all the attention to the fabric. Sometimes I just need a light blue staple, and ask for one, which I hardly pay any attention. Mostly something in the middle.
 

Thruth

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I think that is what I am getting at. Certainly I can appreciate the difference between high quality shirting but I am not stressing on finding Riva fabric or perceived nuances between Albini and Alumo
 

Sartodinapoli

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I think that is what I am getting at. Certainly I can appreciate the difference between high quality shirting but I am not stressing on finding Riva fabric or perceived nuances between Albini and Alumno.


True shirt maniacs can id on a blind test the brand and caliber of the thread just by touching it. Was a gamble game we did with the Kiton masters.

Same as true car lovers can id what car is just by listening the engine.
 

doghouse

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I think that is what I am getting at. Certainly I can appreciate the difference between high quality shirting but I am not stressing on finding Riva fabric or perceived nuances between Albini and Alumno.

I use Acorn and Ringhart 90% of the time. Alumo or Riva is good for specific high end stuff, but I wouldn't make all my shirts out of it.
 

Thruth

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True shirt maniacs can id on a blind test the brand and caliber of the thread just by touching it. Was a gamble game we did with the Kiton masters.

Same as true car lovers can id what car is just by listening the engine.

Very true. But what would you suggest as a go-to fabric for every day dress shirts that will look good and is durable? What weave and what mill? Say 120/2 to 140/2
 

Sartodinapoli

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Very true. But what would you suggest as a go-to fabric for every day dress shirts that will look good and is durable? What weave and what mill? Say 120/2 to 140/2


My most recommended and sold shirting is the Switzerland Alumo Supraluxe 120/2, has medium weight, perspirate a lot so even in July is fresh, and can be used on December, thing that the top shirting can´t be as is too light.

Also has a peachy finishing, instead of cristal like of the top ones, and the finishing last forever, after each washing feels as new. Others go losing.

Cost a few euros more than the competence but is a good investement. Finamore charges 295 euros for a shirt on it on rtw!!! ( i do the half and bespoke)
 

Thruth

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My most recommended and sold shirting is the Switzerland Alumo Supraluxe 120/2, has medium weight, perspirate a lot so even in July is fresh, and can be used on December, thing that the top shirting can´t be as is too light.

Also has a peachy finishing, instead of cristal like of the top ones, and the finishing last forever, after each washing feels as new. Others go losing.

Cost a few euros more than the competence but is a good investement. Finamore charges 295 euros for a shirt on it on rtw!!! ( i do the half and bespoke)

Thank you Sartodinapoli Sartodinapoli . Good information.

Seems 120/2 whether it is Alumo or not is good enough for everyday shirts
 

doghouse

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I find it interesting Sarto can spell Alumo correctly but Thruth cannot.
 

Thruth

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I find it interesting Sarto can spell Alumo correctly but Thruth cannot.

Hmm, must a brain fart that has lasted a good many years. I stand corrected.
 

Thruth

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If I were you, I would have played it off as turning the tables on Sarto.

no, I heat it wen I make speling errrors. It makes me feel all Aryanny inside.
 

prince nez

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Been thinking about this for a while. For those of you that get bespoke or MTM shirts how much attention do you pay to the quality of the fabric?

That is, are you concerned by which fabric maker is chosen and the level of refinement of the fabric?

The more I think about it the less concerned I am about fabric as long as the shirt fits well.

how much time do you spend choosing fabric for your shirts beyond the basics of fabric type and colour?

I'm with you. Main thing is the fabric shouldn't feel too cheap, otherwise why bother? But most basic to mid range stuff from the major Italian mills is pretty good quality. Probably can't say the same for some fabrics coming out of the Far East.

I've not been tempted as yet to splurge on sea island cotton or other high end, ultra-fine fabrics, for twice or three times the price per shirt. IMO that stuff's the prerogative of Saudi princes and Russian business boys - in the same class as super 2xx wool suits or albatross skin sandals. Show off stuff.
 

Sanchopanza

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My most recommended and sold shirting is the Switzerland Alumo Supraluxe 120/2, has medium weight, perspirate a lot so even in July is fresh, and can be used on December, thing that the top shirting can´t be as is too light.

Also has a peachy finishing, instead of cristal like of the top ones, and the finishing last forever, after each washing feels as new. Others go losing.

Cost a few euros more than the competence but is a good investement. Finamore charges 295 euros for a shirt on it on rtw!!! ( i do the half and bespoke)
How much does this alumo cost per meter?
 

Sanchopanza

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Been thinking about this for a while. For those of you that get bespoke or MTM shirts how much attention do you pay to the quality of the fabric?

That is, are you concerned by which fabric maker is chosen and the level of refinement of the fabric?

The more I think about it the less concerned I am about fabric as long as the shirt fits well.

how much time do you spend choosing fabric for your shirts beyond the basics of fabric type and colour?
I spent quite sometime, but I look at it as an hobby. I hate to choose fabrics at my shirtmaker lab, for I get brain overload and:
1) end up buying something I would regret;
2) commission too many shirts.
By having swatches at home I can make somehow more rational decisions and I am able to buy fabrics on sale at a great discount.

Usually I get the 120/2 range for everyday use and I tend to spend more on summer shirts.
 

LKP

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There is a store in Rome called TECA Tessuti. In the summer sale you can buy Riva tissue for 30€/meter, but they have a great selection of other manufacturers.
I also have a Grandi&Rubinelli catalog, but I like Atelier Romentino better

eur30 is a top-hot-price
only pyjamas or solid blues too?
 

Sanchopanza

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eur30 is a top-hot-price
only pyjamas or solid blues too?
When I was there last time they also had solid blues at that price and since i had already bought a candy stripe and two pyjamas, the owner sold me a lenght of blue cotton/ linen ( the one I posted) for less than €40/meter
 

doghouse

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By the way, do you have your collars and cuffs replaced when worn out?

Depends on condition of rest of shirt fabric color wise. My cuffs don't really wear out, my collars go long before anything else remotely shows wear.
 

florisgreen

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Depends on condition of rest of shirt fabric color wise. My cuffs don't really wear out, my collars go long before anything else remotely shows wear.

I think it's a pity to throw away a shirt because of a worn out collar (or cuffs), but I never went for the option to have it (them) replaced, so would like to have some feedback from people who have had it done. Of course the only option, unlike you had a bespoke shirt with some extra cloth available, is to have the collar (cuffs) in white.
 

doghouse

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I think it's a pity to throw away a shirt because of a worn out collar (or cuffs), but I never went for the option to have it (them) replaced, so would like to have some feedback from people who have had it done. Of course the only option, unlike you had a bespoke shirt with some extra cloth available, is to have the collar (cuffs) in white.

Yeah, I mean that is the genesis of the contrast cuff and collar anyway.

My shirts are bespoke H&H, but a lot of times the fabric is decently faded by the time the collar wears out and it would be noticed with fresh collar. I've had some done, it's painless, but I think it's more viable for casual type stuff.
 
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