The Canvas: A Proper-Fitting Shirt

doghouse

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Hmmm, this must be bio-individual as silk jackets are known to be noticeably warm. In fact, very little that is cooling about silk as a tailoring material.

I guess it depends on the weave.
Silk is hot as shit as a material, it's an insulator. I've been watching the back and forth about silk being cool with great amusement.

There's a reason pilots scarves were silk.
 

florisgreen

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Silk as a material has long been a staple in British tailoring. Here is Roger Moore in Cyril Castle’s ivory dinner jacket made of dupioni silk. Quite elegant, and far from being tacky:

3FA19D81-1375-48CD-9286-5AEC22300182.jpeg

72FFC393-6929-43C7-8018-0517B9CA410F.jpeg

You also have this style of silk jacket:

View attachment 40464

We were talking of silk as a material for shirting, not jacketing, that is obviously a totally different thing.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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It depends on the weave and weight, those jackets I posted are not tight weaved or shiny. They are, as per the Cordings website that has the same cloth, summer jackets.
 

florisgreen

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It depends on the weave and weight, those jackets I posted are not tight weaved or shiny. They are, as per the Cordings website that has the same cloth, summer jackets.

Yes, I think it's a matter of weight and weave: also wool can be cool in tropical (fresco) cloths.
As nicely formulated by Ambrosius08 Ambrosius08 , that silk could be the summer tweed.
 
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Pimpernel Smith

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Here's the arm sleeve of one of the Diamond Standard/Cut T&A shirts:

IMG_2550.jpg


Not been able to get a decent photo, been trying for ages. I've got the yellow and green versions too.

It's all in the production process and not the cotton itself:


They're proper summer shirts, not seen them on the T&A web store for a couple of years now. But if they do again, I'll have to get some more as they're ideal for when it's hot.
 

florisgreen

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Here's the arm sleeve of one of the Diamond Standard/Cut T&A shirts:

View attachment 40490

Not been able to get a decent photo, been trying for ages. I've got the yellow and green versions too.

It's all in the production process and not the cotton itself:


They're proper summer shirts, not seen them on the T&A web store for a couple of years now. But if they do again, I'll have to get some more as they're ideal for when it's hot.

Interesting, thanks.
 

florisgreen

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Here's the arm sleeve of one of the Diamond Standard/Cut T&A shirts:

IMG_2550.jpg

This looks nice. I dislike however that odd three button cuff typical of T&A, as well as the button placket. Neither a fan of their collar. Their shirts are also pretty expensive: at that price point I certainly would opt for Attolini.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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This looks nice. I dislike however that odd three button cuff typical of T&A, as well as the button placket. Neither a fan of their collar. Their shirts are also pretty expensive: at that price point I certainly would opt for Attolini.
The T&A collar is best with a jacket, or tie.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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I do have a few T&A shirts, but I can get similar Lands End shirts in Supima for £14.00. Smyth and Gibson are made in UK and are only £45.00 in the sale.

How did the T&A's and Edward Green's of the world mark ups become so large?
Lands End are so not in the same league as T&A: quality, exclusivity of seasonal cloth and the big, brash bold designs and colour schemes. Not to mention longevity. Can't speak for Smyth and Gibson.

Started sporting T&A back in Autumn 2015 and I've never had a button come off, cloth obviously fade, or any shirts that don't look as beaming as the day I bought them.

Most of the time I buy in the sales, if you keep looking, shirts turn up in the sales all year round and sometimes Sea Island cottons.

I will begrudgingly pay top whack, but only when I think that particular seasonal shirt will not make it to the sales. The one above I posted, has already sold out in a couple of sizes, so that's one I may want to pull the trigger on. I can justify it, that my shirt rotation is extensive enough that any shirt I buy, unless I spill red wine or the likes on it, will last my lifetime and beyond. From that perspective €315+ is worth it, just about. With a push.
 

Panama

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Lands End are so not in the same league as T&A: quality, exclusivity of seasonal cloth and the big, brash bold designs and colour schemes. Not to mention longevity. Can't speak for Smyth and Gibson.

Started sporting T&A back in Autumn 2015 and I've never had a button come off, cloth obviously fade, or any shirts that don't look as beaming as the day I bought them.

Most of the time I buy in the sales, if you keep looking, shirts turn up in the sales all year round and sometimes Sea Island cottons.

I will begrudgingly pay top whack, but only when I think that particular seasonal shirt will not make it to the sales. The one above I posted, has already sold out in a couple of sizes, so that's one I may want to pull the trigger on. I can justify it, that my shirt rotation is extensive enough that any shirt I buy, unless I spill red wine or the likes on it, will last my lifetime and beyond. From that perspective €315+ is worth it, just about. With a push.
I have recently bought another Emma Willis Sea Island cotton shirt. Yes, they are expensive and do last a lifetime.
EW use Alumo, whilst T&A commission their fabrics. I have had T&A shirts previously. They are probably better than my Italian shirts with some hand work.

I have to say that Lands End Supima shirts represent unbeatable value. I just ordered another 4 to the forty odd I have already...
 

Panama

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I have recently bought another Emma Willis Sea Island cotton shirt. Yes, they are expensive and do last a lifetime.
EW use Alumo, whilst T&A commission their fabrics. I have had T&A shirts previously. They are probably better than my Italian shirts with some hand work.

I have to say that Lands End Supima shirts represent unbeatable value. I just ordered another 4 to the forty odd I have already...
The pattern of a Lands End Supima.
I think I have ordered this in 2 to 3 other colours...


20210819_182612.jpg
 

florisgreen

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florisgreen

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A lovely summer shirt from Santillo 1970.

Screenshot (623).png


For the upcoming autumn you can choose some nice cotton flanell ones.

Screenshot (624).png
 

Sauce

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Those Inglese cuffs sit well under a coat. He makes his sleeves quite long as standard so may well use that design to stop the sleeve slipping down the hand on plebs who aren't blessed with height.
 
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florisgreen

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It looks like a flannel, or Viyella type fabric to me. Would never consider them as a dress shirt, so I wouldn't worry about that quirky breast pocket.

You're right, the shirt is not formal, but it would look so much better without that (any) pocket. In fact every shirt looks better without pockets, except casual or military style ones, that traditionally sport two of them.
 
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