The Canvas: A Proper-Fitting Shirt

Sauce

Well-Known Member
Messages
619
I've reported what they say. No, the mill is not mentioned.
Can you ring them and ask? Add that bit extra to your reporting, at the minute your at Sunderland Echo level, but with a little extra endeavor you could in the national red top league. I'm thinking your own fashion supplement in the Daily Mirror.
 

Pimpernel Smith

Tone Deaf Daddy
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10,809
Latest winter shirts from T&A:

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QuandoDio

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1,272
^^Gingham (shepherds check??) as a pattern is more summer to me but these things matter less these days.

I particularly like the brown one.
 

Pimpernel Smith

Tone Deaf Daddy
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10,809
^^Gingham (shepherds check??) as a pattern is more summer to me but these things matter less these days.

I particularly like the brown one.
It doesn't state what the check it is, but it is a large gingham with ''Warwick'' cloth. It's winter gear.

You can never have enough large or small gingham pattern shirts.

The green striped one is too much like the red equivalent I bought the other month. I knew at the time it might be too much of the same.
 

Sauce

Well-Known Member
Messages
619
Francesco Merrolla does a pretty good shirt. I picked up a couple at a bankruptcy sale a couple of years back. £40 a pop. I'm hoping to get over to Napoli early December if possible for a Europa League game. Would love to get a couple made by him while I'm there. Collar is set by hand, handwork on the shoulder and sleevehead and front and sleeve placket with bar tacks.

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florisgreen

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1,543
A bunch of nice shirts ready to be delivered. I'm particularly fond of that on the top right in broad light grey/light blue stripes. Unfortunately no close-ups of it.

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Lumpen

Well-Known Member
Messages
941
Soon those shirts will be returned to the maker,

Carton came bended 2 mm on a side and the paper lacked of the serigraphy and logos. I ask to return for free.

Maybe the black “turned too black”, the shade of blue turned different than the picture. Fabric was too light, scratchy or too soft...
The thing is to screw the maker as usually instead of going to a psyquiatrician.

Lacked of pattern matching on the interior, the hand made stitching had 27 points on joke a side but 25 on the other, so is “assymetrical and bad done”. One sleeve was 43,2 cms but the other 43,2 so is a bad shirt.

Interlining was too heavy and stiff and so on with idiotic things

Notice several has a tacky more than 5 cms high collar that usually are two neck button. Only ignorants of dressing protocole
order such a ugly thing, that always fits awful over the jacket collar and are garments for show off idiots. You won´ seen any serious dressed minister on such histrionic thing but a few freaks.
 

LeFoo1

Well-Known Member
Messages
75
Insane question - where do you prefer your shirts shoulder seam to sit - between lines 1 to 7? My current shirts seem to be at ~6, but I'm imagining how mobility and aethsetics would be affected if it sits at around line 3.

Also, what are your preferences on shirts' armhole size? My current feeling is that it should be as small as possible until it almost cuts into your armpit, bit I haven't had one that is made to that small yet so can't say how much it will affect comfort. Some say it's ok to have large armholes if you wear a jacket, but I'm not so sure about that.
 

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belinmad

Damn Tacky
Supporter
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1,998
Insane question - where do you prefer your shirts shoulder seam to sit - between lines 1 to 7? My current shirts seem to be at ~6, but I'm imagining how mobility and aethsetics would be affected if it sits at around line 3.

Also, what are your preferences on shirts' armhole size? My current feeling is that it should be as small as possible until it almost cuts into your armpit, bit I haven't had one that is made to that small yet so can't say how much it will affect comfort. Some say it's ok to have large armholes if you wear a jacket, but I'm not so sure about that.

Between 5 and 6, I’d say, and I like a high armpit hole which gives me more mobility, but not to the point of being uncomfortable.
 

Thruth

Big Winter Daddy
Messages
21,435
Insane question - where do you prefer your shirts shoulder seam to sit - between lines 1 to 7? My current shirts seem to be at ~6, but I'm imagining how mobility and aethsetics would be affected if it sits at around line 3.

Also, what are your preferences on shirts' armhole size? My current feeling is that it should be as small as possible until it almost cuts into your armpit, bit I haven't had one that is made to that small yet so can't say how much it will affect comfort. Some say it's ok to have large armholes if you wear a jacket, but I'm not so sure about that.
5
 

LeFoo1

Well-Known Member
Messages
75
Finally got to bring my cloths to the shirt maker - made some tweaks or cut, and changed all cuffs to conical ones. Hope I like them.

Trying a softer interlining and a more BB style buttondown for my linen shirt this time - last time it was a button down but more "European". Denim and cotton-linen in simple spread collar with standard interlining.

I discussed the use of leftover fabrics, and he commented there's not much use of it, even for future repairs. Mainly because if the collar and cuffs are so worn in that they require repairing, the body would not match the new collar / cuffs, especially with denim due to fades. I will still get them back, maybe for some patch work or small crafts.

He also let me touch some Carlo Riva and DJA stuff - not a very wallet friendly move. Another guy also advised me to try ~150g Irish linen shirting (as opposed to Thomas Mason's lighter weight ones)...anyone here tried that before?
 

LeFoo1

Well-Known Member
Messages
75
I have some pyjamas made from Irish linen. Incredible stuff
I'll give it a try next time then - I'm now generally wearing my old uniqlo shirts as lounge wear and it's pretty nice.

Unfortunately my maker only carries entry fabrics or Alumo or Solbiati. Anything else I'll have to do CMT. From what I've heard today it seems that the selection and price are not very good for retail customers in my area. Most colours aren't even available unless we buy 50m+...probably need to find a way to join some group purchase.
 

Panama

Well-Known Member
Messages
900
Finally got to bring my cloths to the shirt maker - made some tweaks or cut, and changed all cuffs to conical ones. Hope I like them.

Trying a softer interlining and a more BB style buttondown for my linen shirt this time - last time it was a button down but more "European". Denim and cotton-linen in simple spread collar with standard interlining.

I discussed the use of leftover fabrics, and he commented there's not much use of it, even for future repairs. Mainly because if the collar and cuffs are so worn in that they require repairing, the body would not match the new collar / cuffs, especially with denim due to fades. I will still get them back, maybe for some patch work or small crafts.

He also let me touch some Carlo Riva and DJA stuff - not a very wallet friendly move. Another guy also advised me to try ~150g Irish linen shirting (as opposed to Thomas Mason's lighter weight ones)...anyone here tried that before?
What was the linen brand? I have tried around three. They haven't equalled Italian linen
 

Panama

Well-Known Member
Messages
900
Not sure if they have been used for shirting, but Thomas Ferguson is a leading linen producer.
William Clark and Emblem. I should have just Googled the Irish Linen Association than look in my wardrobe lol.
 

Panama

Well-Known Member
Messages
900
What do you not like about them? We discussed Baird but i haven’t touched any yet.
Well most linen is quite fine and supple, even in high street stores. Yet, Irish Linen is very thick and feels like canvas.

I can't find a discussion on Baird, but they are heavily used by BB and J Crew.
 

LeFoo1

Well-Known Member
Messages
75
Well most linen is quite fine and supple, even in high street stores. Yet, Irish Linen is very thick and feels like canvas.

I can't find a discussion on Baird, but they are heavily used by BB and J Crew.
Thanks. The nice stranger recommended Irish linen mainly because my linen shirt was too transparent. I'll see if I can get my hands on some...from the description I imagine it could be a non-transparent alternative to cotton shirts.
 

Sauce

Well-Known Member
Messages
619
Never been a fan of the cocktail cuff, always found it a bit fussy but I think this one is really cool.
Frank-Foster-Shirt-Blue-Bengal-Stripe-Cuff-640x427.jpg

The single button looks much nicer and the smaller button holding the fold looks trick. Liking the collar as well.
 

doghouse

King Of The Elite Idiots
Messages
12,158
Is Frank Foster still alive?

Edit: Just read the article, I guess his wife is doing the shirts now.
 

Sauce

Well-Known Member
Messages
619
Thats the bog standard cocktail cuff. I've never liked it but the other one is neat. IMHO of course, and if anyone has a right to an opinion on here its me. Way more infact than anyone who doesn't agree with me.
 

doghouse

King Of The Elite Idiots
Messages
12,158
Thats the bog standard cocktail cuff. I've never liked it but the other one is neat. IMHO of course, and if anyone has a right to an opinion on here its me. Way more infact than anyone who doesn't agree with me.

Not the cocktail cuff, the sleeve placket. It's as big as my goddamn shin bone. That gauntlet button is doing some serious work.
 

Sauce

Well-Known Member
Messages
619
Seems to be the "house" style. Tis the biggest placket I've ever seen for sure. Its nearly doubling up as elbow patches.
 

WCutter

Active Member
Supporter
Messages
39
Reporting from the uncharted territories of Eastern Europe. Although it's highly improbable you guys would ever order something from this part of the world, at least you get to know how things work. I commissioned a MTM light blue shirt, cloth must be some poplin, double-ply 100/2 - 100/2, with semi-Italian collar, no button placket, no chest pocket, button cuffs, MOP buttons, no contrast stitching, no monogram, no bullshit. Don't expect handmade passages either, but that's ok with me.

The shirt maker Brailconf is an industrial operation dating from the seventies, privatized and modernized, I think part of their production goes to Charlie Tyrwhitt. As a side dish they offer MTM, which I wanted to try as with my body measurements I can't find any RTW to fit decently. Their MTM price (100 Eur) seems higher than the quality I expect from them, I will see in the end if it it's not wiser to continue buying from Camicissima (60 - 90 Eur), buy in bunches and then get the shirts slightly altered.

Over and out.
 
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ballmouse

Well-Known Member
Messages
389
I've been tinkering with a shirt pattern I could use for MTO shirt orders after I was disappointed by what shirtmakers came up with. It's pretty much done (just seeing if I can get a slightly cleaner sleeve with the pattern maker now), but finding US shirtmakers who can accommodate custom shirts AND provide fabric is not easy.

I did try Individualized in NJ, which I think is used by Ratio. But my god their smallest armhole was way too large. I would have probably used that armhole for a size 42 or 44. So if I were to use them, I'd need to find another factory for half my potential customers which seems crazy.
 

doghouse

King Of The Elite Idiots
Messages
12,158
Dude thats insane, but tracks with my long standing belief that the biggest flaw in American clothing is ridiculously big armholes. Even t-shirts have this issue in the American market
 

Pimpernel Smith

Tone Deaf Daddy
Messages
10,809
Reporting from the uncharted territories of Eastern Europe. Although it's highly improbable you guys would ever order something from this part of the world, at least you get to know how things work. I commissioned a MTM light blue shirt, cloth must be some poplin, double-ply 100/2 - 100/2, with semi-Italian collar, no button placket, no chest pocket, button cuffs, MOP buttons, no contrast stitching, no monogram, no bullshit. Don't expect handmade passages either, but that's ok with me.

The shirt maker Brailconf is an industrial operation dating from the seventies, privatized and modernized, I think part of their production goes to Charlie Tyrwhitt. As a side dish they offer MTM, which I wanted to try as with my body measurements I can't find any RTW to fit decently. Their MTM price (100 Eur) seems higher than the quality I expect from them, I will see in the end if it it's not wiser to continue buying from Camicissima (60 - 90 Eur), buy in bunches and then get the shirts slightly altered.

Over and out.
Here MTM/bespoke shirt making is an Iranian diaspora enterprise. Depending on which ''tailor'' you go to, you can pay €180 without fittings, or €400+ for effectively the same shirts, made by the same individuals. If you're a straight-up-and-down chap, you don't really need it, unless you're looking for a specific cloth.
 

WCutter

Active Member
Supporter
Messages
39
Here MTM/bespoke shirt making is an Iranian diaspora enterprise. Depending on which ''tailor'' you go to, you can pay €180 without fittings, or €400+ for effectively the same shirts, made by the same individuals. If you're a straight-up-and-down chap, you don't really need it, unless you're looking for a specific cloth.
Woo, prices real hot.

What specific cloth they offer?
 
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