You people really have no sense of humor! How could I be a credible Sarto persiflage otherwise? Anyway, I feel truly insulted, but now that I found out that is by an Australian it's alright.
But let's refrain from donning the Sarto cloak for a moment and talk serious tailoring and body posture and let's also provide some explanation as to how the Sarto persona works: when I am most serious you will find an explosion of exclamation marks and bigotry. For the merekens et all: this is how persiflage works since ages.
Now, the more intelligent can re-read the postings. Let's get to work for the other people around here. This time the word "gay" will be used scientifically (and this is a lot less fun).
Let's be open about it: large parts of the Pitti-wall-and-co community are also members of the gay community where it is "de bon ton" to work out. A lot of those people have been working out in a way opposite to "Mézière" in other words: they have been shortening the muscles around the spine whilst augmenting the neck and shoulder area. This makes them impossible customers for RTW or MTO. Unfortunatly, that is what they can afford, but they cannot wear it anymore! So we are bombarded with "Collo Americano" pictures of narcissic egotists unable to manage their posture or their suits. (the temptation was huge to put an exclamation mark). And this is where I link the posture fenomenon to the Scherensammler post and I go totally crazy because this is like an "alambique" obvisously, very difficult to disentagle the faulty concepts on a forum like this. This is an attempt to create a perspective between the excellent but imho partially misleading postings by Scherensammler and the problem at large: destruction of elegance.
Let's first return to what Scherensammler is posting: a RTW-MTO classification system called Rundschau (I was tempted to call it Rundfunk in capitals, but I am trying to keep Sarto under control) which, 50 years ago was capable to "wiggle" with standard patterns so you would get an almost bespoke effect: look at the customer, categorize him, pick the right pattern, adjust it according to the "school of Rundschau" and there you go. These systems are still used in RTW and MTO, but they can only go so far in correcting posture (be it good or bad). Otherwise bespoke is needed, where a personalized pattern is drawn based upon a first "toile" and then further refined over time (for a first suit 3 to 10 fittings would be recommendable). This is certainly not work in the same league, and my criticism to Scherensammler is that he blurs the lines a little too much for the neofites. Anyway: picture above is the failed attempt of a bad tailor to undo the sleeves and turn them forward in order to avoid the Collo Americano, instead of opting for a larger jacket and adjusting the body of it. This is also the problem with the imho excellent Boglioli jackets: they are well made, but should be taken "as they are" and if one does not have the fit to wear them: don't buy them as they need ubertailors to adjust...their lack of structure makes it difficult to adjust them. My general conclusion: dear reader: be AWARE that your BODY needs to be in the limits of tolerance of the averages in the "system", drafted 50 years ago in order to have a fitting garment, if that does not produced the desired result: go bespoke.
FriendCustomer who first promises great things
Journeyman
is the führer of the aussie emereken pc brigade here dont let him distract you from your important mission
oke:
