The first suit: immortal conundrum

[WildBlue]

Well, it looks like the time has come. I would like to invest in a suit, my first one actually, I have no time constraints and my budget for RTW/MTM would be around 800 euros, but I'm willing to spend slightly more for bespoke if it's the only option. I have met a young bespoke (doesn't seem badspoke, his name is Biagio Granata) Neapolitan tailor who charges 1000 euros for his services (for homo ones I bet it's more), but you have to bring in your own fabric. He has some of his own, however I'm not sure what the total price would amount to then.

Body analysis:
193 cm at 90ish kg, hoping to drop to around 86 kg (about 6' 4" and 198 lbs for you imperial heathens), broad straight non sloping shoulders, long legs proportional to height with an erect posture (I always need to get the back roll taken out of my jackets).

The things I'd like in a suit:
1) High armholes, even if they don't allow me to raise my arms to 90°, 70° is acceptable;
2) Neutral button stance, I hate it when it ends up above the natural waist so that shirt shows beneath;
3) High rise trousers (never tried pleats, though I like the look of 2 reverse ones) that hit at the navel, however I ask, do you think it still looks flattering given my tall frame?

I live in Italy, I'd be willing to travel across it if it meant being satisfied with the result.

 

[Leitmotif]

You should consult with FriendCustomer ConchitaWurst and LKP (He works for the KGB though).

Im interested in this threas, I wouldnt mind traveling to Italy to get one badspoke suit.

 

[WildBlue]

You should consult with FriendCustomer ConchitaWurst and LKP (He works for the KGB though).

Im interested in this threas, I wouldnt mind traveling to Italy to get one badspoke suit.

Are they all fellow eyetalians? Well, rather than contacting them through PM directly I thought I'd make a public thread first so as to have future reference for other people too.

Word of warning, not all of our women are truly stunning. A few are, some are average and some are reminiscent of water boilers.

 

[Leitmotif]

Are they all fellow eyetalians? Well, rather than contacting them through PM directly I thought I'd make a public thread first so as to have future reference for other people too.

Word of warning, not all of our women are truly stunning. A few are, some are average and some are reminiscent of water boilers.

No they are not, but they comission new suits very frequently.

About the women part, Im from venezuela so most of the italians we imported are mixed with something else and the results are always spectacular. I dated this chick for a while back in Miami, she was 6 years older than me though. Olo

 

[WildBlue]

No they are not, but they comission new suits very frequently.

About the women part, Im from venezuela so most of the italians we imported are mixed with something else and the results are always spectacular. I dated this chick for a while back in Miami, she was 6 years older than me though. Olo

Very nice to know, I'll wait for their responses as far as bespoke is concerned. In your opinion RTW and MTM aren't worth it, I take it?

verri top, however my view of our women might be slightly skewed since I'm a sucker for Scandinavian/Polish/Russians.

 

[Leitmotif]

Very nice to know, I'll wait for their responses as far as bespoke is concerned. In your opinion RTW and MTM aren't worth it, I take it?

verri top, however my view of our women might be slightly skewed since I'm a sucker for Scandinavian/Polish/Russians.

Sorry, im a child when it comes to #menswear, so the wrong person. Others will help you though. So far everything that I have is rtw. Two ted baker sport coats, an eidos sportcoat and a stile latino sport coat. All 4 for less than a grand.

Not my thing, I only do white, but white latin.

 

[WildBlue]

Sorry, im a child when it comes to #menswear, so the wrong person. Others will help you though. So far everything that I have is rtw. Two ted baker sport coats, an eidos sportcoat and a stile latino sport coat. All 4 for less than a grand.

I thought that the consensus on this board was that Eidos was overrated and had an ugly too cutaway shape? Never heard of Stile Latino, but how the heck did you manage to get them at such a cheap price?

 

[Leitmotif]

I thought that the consensus on this board was that Eidos was overrated and had an ugly too cutaway shape? Never heard of Stile Latino, but how the heck did you manage to get them at such a cheap price?

Im a joo that likes to takes care of its joo gold. Just kidding. I used to work for a clothing store 4 years ago, each ted baker sport coat was 100. The eidos was 300 and the stile latino was 350. Not a bad deal from either. Stile latino goes for around 1k same thing for Eidos.

 

[WildBlue]

Im a joo that likes to takes care of its joo gold. Just kidding. I used to work for a clothing store 4 years ago, each ted baker sport coat was 100. The eidos was 300 and the stile latino was 350. Not a bad deal from either. Stile latino goes for around 1k same thing for Eidos.

Damn you, Shlomo Goldberg!

 

[FriendCustomer]

Well, it looks like the time has come. I would like to invest in a suit, my first one actually, I have no time constraints and my budget for RTW/MTM would be around 800 euros, but I'm willing to spend slightly more for bespoke if it's the only option. I have met a young bespoke (doesn't seem badspoke, his name is Biagio Granata) Neapolitan tailor who charges 1000 euros for his services (for homo ones I bet it's more), but you have to bring in your own fabric. He has some of his own, however I'm not sure what the total price would amount to then.

Body analysis:
193 cm at 90ish kg, hoping to drop to around 86 kg (about 6' 4" and 198 lbs for you imperial heathens), broad straight non sloping shoulders, long legs proportional to height with an erect posture (I always need to get the back roll taken out of my jackets).

The things I'd like in a suit:
1) High armholes, even if they don't allow me to raise my arms to 90°, 70° is acceptable;
2) Neutral button stance, I hate it when it ends up above the natural waist so that shirt shows beneath;
3) High rise trousers (never tried pleats, though I like the look of 2 reverse ones) that hit at the navel, however I ask, do you think it still looks flattering given my tall frame?

I live in Italy, I'd be willing to travel across it if it meant being satisfied with the result.

where in italy do you live? I see well dressed business people and older gentlemen in many parts of italy. depending on where you lived, i would just ask people where they go for their suits and see whats available locally. there are many non-internet famous tailors all over italy who could probably make you a nice suit for around 1000 euros. As a non italian, living outside of italy, who does not speak a word of italian, it is a bit harder for me.

I know someone who has used Granata and is happy, but he seems very young, and some of the stuff i have seen does not appeal to me although other stuff looks nice. But for the same price one can find older masters with many more years of experience and classic taste. That would be my preference.

Your armhole and button stance concerns should not even be discussed with a proper tailor. They do this automatically. At the first fitting you can specify if you want the stance higher or lower. you should also tell them how high you wear your pants, if the tailor doesn't ask. double reverse pleats would look fine on you. no need to worry about your height. no need to overthink any of that.

I would avoid MTM completely (not worth the money), i guess RTW is ok if you are ok with the fit, but it is not for me.

 

[ConchitaWurst]

agree. choose between rtw and bespoke

i generally dont like what i see on biagio granatas insta. the fact that he is heavily shilled by dirnelli doesnt help either

nicely altered rtw is generally much much better than mtm

 

[QuandoDio]

What of respoke? Then you get garments with many years on the shoulder, lovely moth holes and you get to look like DiplomaticTies?

I too have seen Granata's work on instagram and he seems to favour a con rollino so that might or might not appeal to you but seems ok to me. Nothing too egregious.

What do you want to get as your first suit investment? And for what purpose?

 

[Grand Potentate]

What do you want to get as your first suit investment? And for what purpose?

finally someone asks a good question. for a young kid like W WildBlue this is the better starting point.

 

[Scherensammler]

i generally dont like what i see on biagio granatas insta.

The stuff seems reasonably well made (only the typically fugly Neapolitan buttonholes suck), but I'm not a fan of the overly tight and disproportionately short look he seems to prefer. It's not flattering for any body, IMO.

 

[Jupiter]

agree. choose between rtw and bespoke

i generally dont like what i see on biagio granatas insta. the fact that he is heavily shilled by dirnelli doesnt help either

nicely altered rtw is generally much much better than mtm

Granata is a bad instagramer (specialized in awful pics) but a good bespoker. He made me a great suit (you can ask him a manica a camicia instead of his rollino shoulder without problem) and I immediately commissionned another one. Incredible quality/price value as may say Dearnell (who's not a shiller to my knowledge). Highly recommended. The truth is there are many unknow neapolitan tailors whose work is equivalent to the insta stars and legions of Igents fake idols. The now defunct SartodiNapoli (RIP) mentioned this reality several times but has always revealed himself useless to unearth the name of these humble and great tailors.

 

[WildBlue]

where in italy do you live?

I'm shuffling between Molise and Abruzzo, on the Adriatic Coast. I am prepared to travel, however. Unfortunately, I have yet to meet someone in a suit here who made my head turn around and notice. Most dress quite badly, so I have no chance to ask.

agree. choose between rtw and bespoke

i generally dont like what i see on biagio granatas insta. the fact that he is heavily shilled by dirnelli doesnt help either

Issue is that I doubt RTW would fit how I'd like, unfortunately. Didn't know Dirnelli was a shill.

Leitmotif commented that you were one of the posters here who regularly commissions bespoke here in Italy. I'd assume the tailor you go to is way above my budget then,would I be correct?

What of respoke?

What do you want to get as your first suit investment? And for what purpose?

Respoke is old bespoke then tailored to fit me? Unfortunately I don't think it's easy to find people in Italy of my size who ordered such garments, plus I don't know where to look for.

When I turned 18 last year I decided to help my father run the family company (we've been producing extra virgin olive oil for close to 200 years) while also studying dentistry. So far simple blazers and sport jackets plus wool trousers have been sufficient for meeting local clients and general purpose use. However, now that I'm looking to meet international clients and attending national dentistry congresses, I'd like something more. I also consider it an entrance in manhood, a rite of passage if you will.

The stuff seems reasonably well made (only the typically fugly Neapolitan buttonholes suck), but I'm not a fan of the overly tight and disproportionately short look he seems to prefer. It's not flattering for any body, IMO.

I don't think he'd have any qualms about using more classical proportions if I asked.

Granata is a bad instagramer (specialized in awful pics) but a good bespoker. He made me a great suit (you can ask him a manica a camicia instead of his rollino shoulder without problem) and I immediately commissionned another one. Incredible quality/price value as may say Dearnell (who's not a shiller to my knowledge). Highly recommended. The truth is there are many unknow neapolitan tailors whose work is equivalent to the insta stars and legions of Igents fake idols. The now defunct SartodiNapoli (RIP) mentioned this reality several times but has always revealed himself useless to unearth the name of these humble and great tailors.

Unfortunately the only people from Naples I know who also dress well seem caught up with the usual names: Carfora, Solito, Panico, De Simone etc., no real way to discover those gems. Not yet atleast.

 

[ConchitaWurst]

The stuff seems reasonably well made (only the typically fugly Neapolitan buttonholes suck), but I'm not a fan of the overly tight and disproportionately short look he seems to prefer. It's not flattering for any body, IMO.

this

Granata is a bad instagramer (specialized in awful pics) but a good bespoker. He made me a great suit (you can ask him a manica a camicia instead of his rollino shoulder without problem) and I immediately commissionned another one.

please attach some pictures!

Dearnell (who's not a shiller to my knowledge).

isnt posting and blogging favourably of makers that give you stuff for free shilling?

The truth is there are many unknow neapolitan tailors whose work is equivalent to the insta stars and legions of Igents fake idols. The now defunct SartodiNapoli (RIP) mentioned this reality several times but has always revealed himself useless to unearth the name of these humble and great tailors.

i also miss his posts. even though he was generally just beating a dead horse

 

[Jupiter]

this



please attach some pictures!



isnt posting and blogging favourably of makers that give you stuff for free shilling?



i also miss his posts. even though he was generally just beating a dead horse

I'm not a fucking Igent but maybe I'll when I'll have time to take a picture, just to show the work of Biagio who deserves it. Now, if his success increases his prices too much, I'll stop working with him.

Concerning Dearnell, I have no formal proof to sustain this hypothesis but I think Dearnell really buys all the stuff he shows (many thrifting now). His business is elsewhere: he's the CEO of a small media group (former Bloomberg journalist) and have the money to do it. Besides he is regularly critical of the Igent's ridiculous habits. I tend to trust him. What's sure is he has a deep and strong sartorial pathology.

Sarto now became the ghost in the machine: one quarter true sartorial expert, one quarter true sociopath, one quarter true Aryan and one quarter true impostor. What an alchemy. He cannot leave indifferent.

Totally agree with you on MTM which is a shitty and often scamming option. Altered RTW should be privileged. Boggi offers a good entrance for a competitive price and a good quality/price ratio. I may be wrong but I think our friend Wildblue is too tall to find satisfactory solution in RTW, even altered.

 

[Jupiter]

I'm shuffling between Molise and Abruzzo, on the Adriatic Coast. I am prepared to travel, however. Unfortunately, I have yet to meet someone in a suit here who made my head turn around and notice. Most dress quite badly, so I have no chance to ask.

Issue is that I doubt RTW would fit how I'd like, unfortunately. Didn't know Dirnelli was a shill.

Leitmotif commented that you were one of the posters here who regularly commissions bespoke here in Italy. I'd assume the tailor you go to is way above my budget then,would I be correct?


Respoke is old bespoke then tailored to fit me? Unfortunately I don't think it's easy to find people in Italy of my size who ordered such garments, plus I don't know where to look for.

When I turned 18 last year I decided to help my father run the family company (we've been producing extra virgin olive oil for close to 200 years) while also studying dentistry. So far simple blazers and sport jackets plus wool trousers have been sufficient for meeting local clients and general purpose use. However, now that I'm looking to meet international clients and attending national dentistry congresses, I'd like something more. I also consider it an entrance in manhood, a rite of passage if you will.

I don't think he'd have any qualms about using more classical proportions if I asked.


Unfortunately the only people from Naples I know who also dress well seem caught up with the usual names: Carfora, Solito, Panico, De Simone etc., no real way to discover those gems. Not yet atleast.

Some good names (Panico, Solito) here but with the risk to get an random result. Dalcuore in Naples or Ripense in Roma are good references but too much expensive for the final product. Amato is expensive but seems to be a very good choice (totally confidential). Finally for a mid budget BnTailor could be the best option but I don't know what are the result with their scandinavian guy. Japanese Yuki Inoué also. I saw beautiful stuff in Sartoria Tofani (not regarding they supposed bisexuality). If you have a low budget go to a well referenced RTW as Boggi with a wide sizes offer.

 

[ConchitaWurst]

I'm not a fucking Igent but maybe I'll when I'll have time to take a picture, just to show the work of Biagio who deserves it.

just showing his non sciamatcopywork would be nice

did you also try sodano when zampa di gallina brought him to paris?

Concerning Dearnell, I have no formal proof to sustain this hypothesis but I think Dearnell really buys all the stuff he shows (many thrifting now). His business is elsewhere: he's the CEO of a small media group (former Bloomberg journalist) and have the money to do it. Besides he is regularly critical of the Igent's ridiculous habits. I tend to trust him. What's sure is he has a deep and strong sartorial pathology.

yes i know. having sufficient funds doesnt exclude receiving freebies though.

Sarto now became the ghost in the machine: one quarter true sartorial expert, one quarter true sociopath, one quarter true Aryan and one quarter true impostor. What an alchemy. He cannot leave indifferent.

little birdie tells me he now even claims to be joo. very complex person he is

Boggi offers a good entrance for a competitive price and a good quality/price ratio.

top dirnelli tip. unbeatable value proposition

Dalcuore in Naples or Ripense in Roma are good references but too much expensive

dalcuore, long time mystery bespoke tailor to mao2 et al, very much the igent darling of the moment. lou parelli very nice guy but the pricing for his ukranian bespoke is very ololololol

Amato is expensive but seems to be a very good choice (totally confidential).

youre sworn to secrecy about amato being a top tailor?? he isnt that expensive in napoli. maybe you are referring to his paris pricing. i do prefer the tailor that is one floor above him though

Finally for a mid budget BnTailor could be the best option but I don't know what are the result with their scandinavian guy. Japanese Yuki Inoué also

W WildBlue is in fkn italy. where you can find decent tailors in almost every medium sized provincial town. that wont charge you an arm and a leg. why would he resort to a swede fronting for some koreans or a jap? very complex solution

 

[WildBlue]

Some good names (Panico, Solito) here but with the risk to get an random result. Dalcuore in Naples or Ripense in Roma are good references but too much expensive for the final product. Amato is expensive but seems to be a very good choice (totally confidential). Finally for a mid budget BnTailor could be the best option but I don't know what are the result with their scandinavian guy. Japanese Yuki Inoué also. I saw beautiful stuff in Sartoria Tofani (not regarding they supposed bisexuality). If you have a low budget go to a well referenced RTW as Boggi with a wide sizes offer.

Boggi is a good deal when on sale/clearance, I'd never buy it at full retail price. I managed to snatch a made in Italy half canvassed sports jacket with VBC fabric for 138 euros. Never tried their suiting, but they all seem to be short for me...plus A LOT of their stuff is fused...

 

[sirloin]

True on Lou. Friendly and helpfull, but to the expensive side. I need to find something else at some point.

 

[walker]

Body analysis:
193 cm at 90ish kg, hoping to drop to around 86 kg

why being anorexic? do you want to channel skoaksmorgas owner #patrikloef to be admired by #lucarubinacci?

 

[WildBlue]

why being anorexic? do you want to channel skoaksmorgas owner #patrikloef to be admired by #lucarubinacci?

I'd just like to drop some BF while cutting

 

[walker]

I'd just like to drop some BF while cutting

BF is what exactly?

 

[WildBlue]

BF is what exactly?

My bad, body fat (not boyfriend, I'm not a joo homo). I'm currently trying to recomposition my body by adding more muscle and dropping fat.

 

[walker]

My bad, body fat (not boyfriend, I'm not a joo homo). I'm currently trying to recomposition my body by adding more muscle and dropping fat.

yeah, it came to my mind bf = body fat. not sure, you loose weight, though.

 

[Lord Buckley]

No they are not, but they comission new suits very frequently.
About the women part, Im from venezuela so most of the italians we imported are mixed with something else and the results are always spectacular. I dated this chick for a while back in Miami, she was 6 years older than me though. Olo
View attachment 20890

Venezuelan ladies are something else, the best asses in the world. Spent a bit time of Caracas and in the Gran Sabana. Happy days, I even dig Polar beer and that Venezuelan orange liqueur.

When I turned 18 last year I decided to help my father run the family company (we've been producing extra virgin olive oil for close to 200 years) while also studying dentistry. So far simple blazers and sport jackets plus wool trousers have been sufficient for meeting local clients and general purpose use. However, now that I'm looking to meet international clients and attending national dentistry congresses, I'd like something more. I also consider it an entrance in manhood, a rite of passage if you will.

You may find in your professions, the humble wool trousers and sports jacket gives a better edge than a suit.

 

[WildBlue]

You may find in your professions, the humble wool trousers and sports jacket gives a better edge than a suit.

I would agree for most occasions, but wouldn't some, maybe outside the work spectrum, require said garment? Of course I won't go full chalkstripe powersuit.

 

[Jupiter]

just showing his non sciamatcopywork would be nice

did you also try sodano when zampa di gallina brought him to paris?



yes i know. having sufficient funds doesnt exclude receiving freebies though.



little birdie tells me he now even claims to be joo. very complex person he is



top dirnelli tip. unbeatable value proposition



dalcuore, long time mystery bespoke tailor to mao2 et al, very much the igent darling of the moment. lou parelli very nice guy but the pricing for his ukranian bespoke is very ololololol



youre sworn to secrecy about amato being a top tailor?? he isnt that expensive in napoli. maybe you are referring to his paris pricing. i do prefer the tailor that is one floor above him though



W WildBlue is in fkn italy. where you can find decent tailors in almost every medium sized provincial town. that wont charge you an arm and a leg. why would he resort to a swede fronting for some koreans or a jap? very complex solution

Sorry for the answer but I still don't understand how does this fucking Multiquote option work?

Biagio doesn't make a Sciamat shoulder (ugly feature indeed, I think you refer to a jacket he shows on his instagram he made for Sartoria Giuliva). His signature shoulder is a manica a mappina with a very light and quite elegant rollino (even if I don't like rollino shoulder). Contrary to me, he likes disproportionated lapels and short trousers but of course you can ask him to rectify his house style. Honestly he does a great job for a decent price.

No. Didn't try Sodano. Don't like the guy and the work he shows doesn't seem too be very inspired. Don't trust him but I may be wrong. Biagio has a lot more experience than him.

Ripense charged 2000 euros in 2014 for a 2 buttons suit (before he became an Insta star) and now charges 3600 euros! I say stop! Great cut but it doesn't deserve that price. Same for Dalcuore (2500 euros two years ago and now 3500 euros??? In Paris). If dumb Igents are eager to pay these obscene prices, I won't.

2800 euros in Paris. When I said "confidential", I suggested for a french public of course. I didn't go to Naples since 20 years...

For sure it's an odd suggestion but Wildblue seems to be lost. Advice him. I think Tofani is a good bespoke mid-budget option for him.

 

[Scherensammler]

That's what makes giving freebies to shills so lucrative. Given a positive review, of course.

I would agree for most occasions, but wouldn't some, maybe outside the work spectrum, require said garment? Of course I won't go full chalkstripe powersuit.

I guess that the people's perception (especially the ones you are dealing with as a farmer or a future dentist) is that of a more casual nature, so wearing a suit would harm your image in the sense that by wearing a suit you lack a connection with your profession.
However, if you want a suit, maybe go for a mid to dark blue, open weave cloth to allow the jacket to be worn as a blazer/ odd jacket.

 

[WildBlue]

I guess that the people's perception (especially the ones you are dealing with as a farmer or a future dentist) is that of a more casual nature, so wearing a suit would harm your image in the sense that by wearing a suit you lack a connection with your profession.
However, if you want a suit, maybe go for a mid to dark blue, open weave cloth to allow the jacket to be worn as a blazer/ odd jacket.

Indeed, I've actually thought about this, hence why I'd wear a suit only to important events such as national/international expos, dinners with politicians etc. Meeting old clients or locals a trusty OCBD is enough.

 

[sirloin]

You could also start with a blue odd jacket + grey or khaki pants. You will get maximum usage out your order, wear it relaxed with friends or on dates, and combine the jacket with what you have atm. I am guessing you would be better dressed than 95% at expos.

 

[QuandoDio]

You could also start with a blue odd jacket + grey or khaki pants. You will get maximum usage out your order, wear it relaxed with friends or on dates, and combine the jacket with what you have atm. I am guessing you would be better dressed than 95% at expos.

I know we all purport to be elegant but an 18 year old wearing Blue odd jacket and greys on dates would not get you a second date - except only with his hand!!

 

[sirloin]

Lol. Relax. Im trying to give friendly advice, that a SC and pants might be more useful, at this point. Not tell him what to wear and when. Pretty sure he can figure that out on his own.

 

[WildBlue]

You could also start with a blue odd jacket + grey or khaki pants. You will get maximum usage out your order, wear it relaxed with friends or on dates, and combine the jacket with what you have atm. I am guessing you would be better dressed than 95% at expos.

I'm not sure I would be willing to commission those as bespoke yet, as I have them in RTW options which I can compromise with. Maybe a navy blazer could be an idea though.

I know we all purport to be elegant but an 18 year old wearing Blue odd jacket and greys on dates would not get you a second date - except only with his hand!!

I've dressed like that if it was a more formal date (i.e. yesterday to see Romeo and Juliet ballet, added a tie too and people do turn their heads around a lot) for laid back ones OCBDs+V neck sweaters (or as my fellow eyetalian untailor tackynacci would say, Zweader)+ jeans/gray wool trousers have been sufficient to accomplish the goal. However, I do know what you mean.

 

[formby]

I know we all purport to be elegant but an 18 year old wearing Blue odd jacket and greys on dates would not get you a second date - except only with his hand!!

Don't knock it. It's sex with someone you love.

 

[Lord Buckley]

I know we all purport to be elegant but an 18 year old wearing Blue odd jacket and greys on dates would not get you a second date - except only with his hand!!

Depends on the lady surely? I am sure there are some nice young ladies who would appreciate a young man going places in a navy blazer, flannels and a button-down with decent collar role. Or am I just kidding myself?

 

[Leitmotif]

Depends on the lady surely? I am sure there are some nice young ladies who would appreciate a young man going places in a navy blazer, flannels and a button-down with decent collar role. Or am I just kidding myself?

She would be like "wtf are you thinking"

 

[Lord Buckley]

That's why young men going places should get themselves a nice cougar to play with. Relatively speaking of course, between 28-35.