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The Shooman

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With winter almost here l am seriously thinking about purchasing some pairs of highend cashmere tracksuit pants to wear around the house.
http://www.executivestyle.com.au/would-you-pay-1900-for-tracksuit-pants-go3pko

Sunspel cashmere is likely the ticket, but maybe something extra fancy could be on the cards if they can be had at discount. I've been putting off buying cashmere tracksuit pants, but owning a few pairs would be a very worthwhile thing to do for the evenings.

Pity some of the fancy cashmere tracksuit pants are around 3000 bucks.

Here we go, after searching for almost 2 years l think l have found what l have been looking for. The ideal cashmere tracksuit pants.

Derik Rose luxury tracksuit pants.

https://www.derek-rose.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=tracksuit+pants


London designer and heritage brand Derek Rose, best known for creating luxe loungewear, nails this mix of comfy and chic with its ultra-soft, and ultra-sleek lineup of winter essentials. This season, dive into its men’s winter travel edit, featuring the buttery-soft luxuriousness that is 100 percent, 12-gauge, pure Italian cashmere made by Loro Piana. The new designs consist of sweaters, track pants, zip-up tops, and hoodies, all of which are perfect for those international holiday flights or long days at home spent lounging by the fire.
https://robbreport.com/style/fashion/derek-rose-cashmere-winter-loungewear-2767502/
 

Journeyman

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Sadly I didn't have the time to pay a visit to Marinella.
I've got about 15 Marinella ties (most picked up from Japanese department stores during their sale seasons) and they're very nice. I do wish that their knots were slightly longer, though. I think that my idea tie would have a Vanda-style knot, and a Marinella-style drape.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Another Dutch shoemaker: Van Bommel, not to be confused with Floris Van Bommel. Like all of the Dutch shoemakers they have some awful nasty and cheap ranges, but seek and ye shall find some reasonable priced Euros 229-269 if you're on a budget. They're not C&J Hand Grade, but certainly equal to English bench made shoes in that price range e.g. Loake's:

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Lumpen

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I've got about 15 Marinella ties (most picked up from Japanese department stores during their sale seasons) and they're very nice. I do wish that their knots were slightly longer, though. I think that my idea tie would have a Vanda-style knot, and a Marinella-style drape.
But, wasn´t you the Australian Neapolitan tie reseller? Can´t you get those bespoke made to your taste, contact or Idol Sarto then
 

Pimpernel Smith

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If you have a military gear fetish and you want it to be a little less jet and space age than Alpha Industries, there's Buzz Rickson's:

https://www.buzzricksons.com/

Reasuringly period authentic. I haven't really worn much of their stuff for quite sometime, but I dug out my officer pinks last night for the winter and I will need to get them let out a bit. The quality of the cloth and stiffness of the crease is a wonder to behold.
 
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Johnny1

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I quite like Budd. If I wasn't already a long time H&H guy that's who I would use.
I get my dress shirts MTM from Budd. Good quality but perhaps a little overpriced. Id like to try H&H actually. What are their shirts like? Is the fit flattering and do they last without too much shrinkage in the wash?
 

Johnny1

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Some good bespoke known values which can make consensus:
- Corcos (top SF gent ref) +3k
- Paone +2k (does London TS)
- Vergallo +2k (does London TS)
- Tofani =2k (for new customers + #bi#homo#)
- Crimi = 1,6k
- Eduardo di Simone atelier (not a tailor himself) = 1,4k
- Master Oreo = True Mystery Price (TMP)

All very little operations (the cutter is the maker for the most parts) excepted di Simone (his work doesn't inspire me - same for Vergallo - but seems globally correct).

I won't shill for my tailor since it's a bit hit-or-miss with him.

who is 'master oreo'?
 

doghouse

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I get my dress shirts MTM from Budd. Good quality but perhaps a little overpriced. Id like to try H&H actually. What are their shirts like? Is the fit flattering and do they last without too much shrinkage in the wash?
I'd probably need to know if you are looking for MTM or bespoke to give you a decent opinion. I've only had their off the peg or bespoke, I never really did any MTM stuff.
 

Journeyman

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Whats H&Hs RTW like?
I had a few of their shirts about a decade back.

Reasonable, but nothing more. Collars better than Charles Tyrwhitt or TM Lewin, and decent fabrics, but very thin shell buttons and construction and stitching nothing sensational.

Of the British makers, I think that Hilditch & Key is the best all around shirtmaker when considering construction, fabrics, variety and value for money. Coles used to be good but they seem to have disappeared nowadays.

Edited to add - I haven't tried Budd. New & Lingwood makes nice shirts but they are expensive.
 

Johnny1

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I had a few of their shirts about a decade back.

Reasonable, but nothing more. Collars better than Charles Tyrwhitt or TM Lewin, and decent fabrics, but very thin shell buttons and construction and stitching nothing sensational.

Of the British makers, I think that Hilditch & Key is the best all around shirtmaker when considering construction, fabrics, variety and value for money. Coles used to be good but they seem to have disappeared nowadays.

Edited to add - I haven't tried Budd. New & Lingwood makes nice shirts but they are expensive.
Hilditch and Key underwent a complete change in terms of product a couple of years back I understand? I have their shirts from before this change and they are ok but not anything special in my opinion. Wearable but thin poplin material, wafer thin shell buttons, quite blousey (regular fit ones). Might put them on eBay or on the Sales page here if anyone is interested in a 16.5 collar.

I like Budd but the prices have become somewhat absurd. I don't particularly want to pay over a £100 for a shirt as its something that doesn't last more than a 4/5 years max with good wear despite what any shirt maker claims.
 

doghouse

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Hilditch and Key underwent a complete change in terms of product a couple of years back I understand? I have their shirts from before this change and they are ok but not anything special in my opinion. Wearable but thin poplin material, wafer thin shell buttons, quite blousey (regular fit ones). Might put them on eBay or on the Sales page here if anyone is interested in a 16.5 collar.

I like Budd but the prices have become somewhat absurd. I don't particularly want to pay over a £100 for a shirt as its something that doesn't last more than a 4/5 years max with good wear despite what any shirt maker claims.
H&K have gotten much worse. H&H are pretty much around what H&K used to be. Which I never thought was super great to be honest, but certainly better than now. T&A and such are still a level up for RTW, but you pay about three times more.

The H&H bespoke is pretty good, nothing that I can really fault, been a customer for a decade. You won't get super fine needle work or anything, but they will stay up on your pattern well, use decent buttons, etc.. Made in house as well in the London workshop.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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T&A and such are still a level up for RTW, but you pay about three times more.
Aye, T&A is by far the most raffish aristocrat amongst those shirt makers, but the price can be an issue. I'm a massive shirt man above all, so I will pay for T&A RTW prices. At the moment I'm trying to stick with the local tailor here in The Hague, including for shirts. I've some jackets planned for next year, but whichever way you swing, if you want a superlative shirt that stands out amongst the herd, you cannot fail with T&A.
 

Untermensch

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I've had Luxire make me a couple of trousers. I took the measurements off my best bespoke pair, so the result is better than middling. They followed the measurements to the letter, and the quality of the workmanship is excellent. Of course a real bespoke tailor would tweak those measurements at the final fitting, watching you flex and strut and whatnot, and taking into account esoteric things like the thickness and elasticity of the fabric.

But at that price point, I think Luxire are not too shabby.
Update: My third Luxire trousers turned out shite. Shoddy workmanship around the hem, the crotch and the zip, extremly bad fit, and pleats placed too close together.

They followed the measurements all right. The trouble is there are some things you can't measure, like the drape around the base of the crotch. So unless you send them a pair of trousers to copy, all they have is the list of measurements on the online ordering system.

I ended up with the right length, the right width around the lower leg, the right waist and seat, but somehow the trousers are too tight around the base of the crotch, and a trouser crease that's all wonky.

I hope my tailor can figure out what's wrong. And that there's enough fabric at the seams to make the necessary adjustments around with.

Lesson learned: It's hit and miss with Luxire.
 

fxh

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Update: My third Luxire trousers turned out shite. Shoddy workmanship around the hem, the crotch and the zip, extremly bad fit, and pleats placed too close together. They followed the measurements all right. The trouble is there are some things you can't measure, like the drape around the base of the crotch. So unless you send them a pair of trousers to copy, all they have is the list of measurements on the online ordering system. I ended up with the right length, the right width around the lower leg, the right waist and seat, but somehow the trousers are too tight around the base of the crotch, and a trouser crease that's all wonky.

I hope my tailor can figure out what's wrong. And that there's enough fabric at the seams to make the necessary adjustments around with.

Lesson learned: It's hit and miss with Luxire.
Clearly you have gotten substantially larger in that department!!!
Celebrate.
 
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