The Master List of Forum Approved Clothes Makers, Shoe Makers, and Tailors

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
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2,438
With winter almost here l am seriously thinking about purchasing some pairs of highend cashmere tracksuit pants to wear around the house.
http://www.executivestyle.com.au/would-you-pay-1900-for-tracksuit-pants-go3pko

Sunspel cashmere is likely the ticket, but maybe something extra fancy could be on the cards if they can be had at discount. I've been putting off buying cashmere tracksuit pants, but owning a few pairs would be a very worthwhile thing to do for the evenings.

Pity some of the fancy cashmere tracksuit pants are around 3000 bucks.

Here we go, after searching for almost 2 years l think l have found what l have been looking for. The ideal cashmere tracksuit pants.

Derik Rose luxury tracksuit pants.

https://www.derek-rose.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=tracksuit+pants


London designer and heritage brand Derek Rose, best known for creating luxe loungewear, nails this mix of comfy and chic with its ultra-soft, and ultra-sleek lineup of winter essentials. This season, dive into its men’s winter travel edit, featuring the buttery-soft luxuriousness that is 100 percent, 12-gauge, pure Italian cashmere made by Loro Piana. The new designs consist of sweaters, track pants, zip-up tops, and hoodies, all of which are perfect for those international holiday flights or long days at home spent lounging by the fire.
https://robbreport.com/style/fashion/derek-rose-cashmere-winter-loungewear-2767502/
 

Journeyman

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3,478
Sadly I didn't have the time to pay a visit to Marinella.
I've got about 15 Marinella ties (most picked up from Japanese department stores during their sale seasons) and they're very nice. I do wish that their knots were slightly longer, though. I think that my idea tie would have a Vanda-style knot, and a Marinella-style drape.
 

Pimpernel Smith

Well-Known Member
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4,814
Another Dutch shoemaker: Van Bommel, not to be confused with Floris Van Bommel. Like all of the Dutch shoemakers they have some awful nasty and cheap ranges, but seek and ye shall find some reasonable priced Euros 229-269 if you're on a budget. They're not C&J Hand Grade, but certainly equal to English bench made shoes in that price range e.g. Loake's:

17093-06.jpg




17093-06_2_.jpg


19890-12.jpg


Van-Bommel-17099-01-G_A.jpg


Van-Bommel-19155-02-H_A.jpg
 

Lumpen

Well-Known Member
Messages
541
I've got about 15 Marinella ties (most picked up from Japanese department stores during their sale seasons) and they're very nice. I do wish that their knots were slightly longer, though. I think that my idea tie would have a Vanda-style knot, and a Marinella-style drape.
But, wasn´t you the Australian Neapolitan tie reseller? Can´t you get those bespoke made to your taste, contact or Idol Sarto then
 

Pimpernel Smith

Well-Known Member
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4,814
If you have a military gear fetish and you want it to be a little less jet and space age than Alpha Industries, there's Buzz Rickson's:

https://www.buzzricksons.com/

Reasuringly period authentic. I haven't really worn much of their stuff for quite sometime, but I dug out my officer pinks last night for the winter and I will need to get them let out a bit. The quality of the cloth and stiffness of the crease is a wonder to behold.
 
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Johnny1

Active Member
Messages
25
I quite like Budd. If I wasn't already a long time H&H guy that's who I would use.
I get my dress shirts MTM from Budd. Good quality but perhaps a little overpriced. Id like to try H&H actually. What are their shirts like? Is the fit flattering and do they last without too much shrinkage in the wash?
 

Johnny1

Active Member
Messages
25
Some good bespoke known values which can make consensus:
- Corcos (top SF gent ref) +3k
- Paone +2k (does London TS)
- Vergallo +2k (does London TS)
- Tofani =2k (for new customers + #bi#homo#)
- Crimi = 1,6k
- Eduardo di Simone atelier (not a tailor himself) = 1,4k
- Master Oreo = True Mystery Price (TMP)

All very little operations (the cutter is the maker for the most parts) excepted di Simone (his work doesn't inspire me - same for Vergallo - but seems globally correct).

I won't shill for my tailor since it's a bit hit-or-miss with him.

who is 'master oreo'?
 

doghouse

King Of The Elite Idiots
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I get my dress shirts MTM from Budd. Good quality but perhaps a little overpriced. Id like to try H&H actually. What are their shirts like? Is the fit flattering and do they last without too much shrinkage in the wash?
I'd probably need to know if you are looking for MTM or bespoke to give you a decent opinion. I've only had their off the peg or bespoke, I never really did any MTM stuff.
 

Journeyman

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Whats H&Hs RTW like?
I had a few of their shirts about a decade back.

Reasonable, but nothing more. Collars better than Charles Tyrwhitt or TM Lewin, and decent fabrics, but very thin shell buttons and construction and stitching nothing sensational.

Of the British makers, I think that Hilditch & Key is the best all around shirtmaker when considering construction, fabrics, variety and value for money. Coles used to be good but they seem to have disappeared nowadays.

Edited to add - I haven't tried Budd. New & Lingwood makes nice shirts but they are expensive.
 

Johnny1

Active Member
Messages
25
I had a few of their shirts about a decade back.

Reasonable, but nothing more. Collars better than Charles Tyrwhitt or TM Lewin, and decent fabrics, but very thin shell buttons and construction and stitching nothing sensational.

Of the British makers, I think that Hilditch & Key is the best all around shirtmaker when considering construction, fabrics, variety and value for money. Coles used to be good but they seem to have disappeared nowadays.

Edited to add - I haven't tried Budd. New & Lingwood makes nice shirts but they are expensive.
Hilditch and Key underwent a complete change in terms of product a couple of years back I understand? I have their shirts from before this change and they are ok but not anything special in my opinion. Wearable but thin poplin material, wafer thin shell buttons, quite blousey (regular fit ones). Might put them on eBay or on the Sales page here if anyone is interested in a 16.5 collar.

I like Budd but the prices have become somewhat absurd. I don't particularly want to pay over a £100 for a shirt as its something that doesn't last more than a 4/5 years max with good wear despite what any shirt maker claims.
 

doghouse

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Hilditch and Key underwent a complete change in terms of product a couple of years back I understand? I have their shirts from before this change and they are ok but not anything special in my opinion. Wearable but thin poplin material, wafer thin shell buttons, quite blousey (regular fit ones). Might put them on eBay or on the Sales page here if anyone is interested in a 16.5 collar.

I like Budd but the prices have become somewhat absurd. I don't particularly want to pay over a £100 for a shirt as its something that doesn't last more than a 4/5 years max with good wear despite what any shirt maker claims.
H&K have gotten much worse. H&H are pretty much around what H&K used to be. Which I never thought was super great to be honest, but certainly better than now. T&A and such are still a level up for RTW, but you pay about three times more.

The H&H bespoke is pretty good, nothing that I can really fault, been a customer for a decade. You won't get super fine needle work or anything, but they will stay up on your pattern well, use decent buttons, etc.. Made in house as well in the London workshop.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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4,814
T&A and such are still a level up for RTW, but you pay about three times more.
Aye, T&A is by far the most raffish aristocrat amongst those shirt makers, but the price can be an issue. I'm a massive shirt man above all, so I will pay for T&A RTW prices. At the moment I'm trying to stick with the local tailor here in The Hague, including for shirts. I've some jackets planned for next year, but whichever way you swing, if you want a superlative shirt that stands out amongst the herd, you cannot fail with T&A.
 

Untermensch

Well-Known Member
Messages
355
I've had Luxire make me a couple of trousers. I took the measurements off my best bespoke pair, so the result is better than middling. They followed the measurements to the letter, and the quality of the workmanship is excellent. Of course a real bespoke tailor would tweak those measurements at the final fitting, watching you flex and strut and whatnot, and taking into account esoteric things like the thickness and elasticity of the fabric.

But at that price point, I think Luxire are not too shabby.
Update: My third Luxire trousers turned out shite. Shoddy workmanship around the hem, the crotch and the zip, extremly bad fit, and pleats placed too close together.

They followed the measurements all right. The trouble is there are some things you can't measure, like the drape around the base of the crotch. So unless you send them a pair of trousers to copy, all they have is the list of measurements on the online ordering system.

I ended up with the right length, the right width around the lower leg, the right waist and seat, but somehow the trousers are too tight around the base of the crotch, and a trouser crease that's all wonky.

I hope my tailor can figure out what's wrong. And that there's enough fabric at the seams to make the necessary adjustments around with.

Lesson learned: It's hit and miss with Luxire.
 

fxh

OG Party Suit Wearer
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6,710
Update: My third Luxire trousers turned out shite. Shoddy workmanship around the hem, the crotch and the zip, extremly bad fit, and pleats placed too close together. They followed the measurements all right. The trouble is there are some things you can't measure, like the drape around the base of the crotch. So unless you send them a pair of trousers to copy, all they have is the list of measurements on the online ordering system. I ended up with the right length, the right width around the lower leg, the right waist and seat, but somehow the trousers are too tight around the base of the crotch, and a trouser crease that's all wonky.

I hope my tailor can figure out what's wrong. And that there's enough fabric at the seams to make the necessary adjustments around with.

Lesson learned: It's hit and miss with Luxire.
Clearly you have gotten substantially larger in that department!!!
Celebrate.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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4,814
Been around since 1935 and have now opened up in The Hague and whilst not a tailor, or bootmaker, their own branded chinos at 2 for Euros 150 are excellent and great value. They also have a full range of cotton jumpers, which outside of RL outlets or concessions in department stores, or going Brooks Brothers online, are the only place in The Netherlands you can get them:

https://www.english-hatter.nl
 

Kingstonian

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,803
It's precious alright. Back in the day, real men used knives to sharpen their HB's.
It does remind me of primary school but it is a silly price. Get one for about a fiver, a tenner at most.

In grammar school the maths teacher insisted pencils were sharpened with a knife or razor blade and the lead sharpened with sandpaper. Had to be a 2H pencil as well.

We were not allowed to run out of ink in class. Otherwise you could pay the teacher for a refill. Probably had an opinion on ink too Stephens or Quink. Still at least you did not get a beating for running out of ink....
 

Untermensch

Well-Known Member
Messages
355
Yes, like I said, he's loaded. He'd better spend those 300 dollars on replacing Hemrajani with someone from Savile Row.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,438
Have not tried these yet, but l will be getting thermal woolens from here soon. Made-in-Australia!

 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,438
I've had one for eight or nine years now. One piece "full stick" handle and shaft. Cost me about AUD$200 back then, but I don't know how much they are now.
are they completely awesome? Fantastic quality? How does it sound when the rain hits the silk canopy?

The only issue is that we can't do special orders if we don't speak Italian. I will be forced to buy online from a retailer which carries them. Would like a 30 inch rib job with a nice silk canopy.
 

Journeyman

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are they completely awesome? Fantastic quality? How does it sound when the rain hits the silk canopy?
Very nice, and very good quality. I think that my canopy is polyester, rather than silk.

If there is a weak point, it is where the spokes connect to the hub - the ends of the spokes are quite fine and I suspect that they could twist or bend if exposed to too much force. Therefore, when I open the umbrella, I always make sure to start opening it when it is facing downwards so that I don't place too much force on the spoke ends. Once it's open, though, it feels very robust and I haven't had any problems in windy weather.

I bought mine from a friend, who imported a number of them through an Italian contact. My friend was importing ties and shirts from Italy at the time and I think that his source helped with the umbrellas.

You could also consider Maglia umbrellas. There's a pen and stationery shop in Brisbane that has a few Maglia full-stick umbrellas in the store and they seem to be on the same level as Talarico.
 

Lobbster

Well-Known Member
Messages
163
I've had one for eight or nine years now. One piece "full stick" handle and shaft. Cost me about AUD$200 back then, but I don't know how much they are now.
I got a full stick one from small sartoria in Parma not too long ago for ~140€. I'd be very cautious with regard to pricing, some shops put huge markups on them. Fox has an online MTO, I'd order from them unless you have a local option.

My other one is cherry with a dark blue canopy from Smith that I've been using frequently for the past 10 years. It's developed a nice patina and as it came with a cover it's more versatile.

Usually they don't have silk but nylon canopies, personally I don't care.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,438
Very nice, and very good quality. I think that my canopy is polyester, rather than silk.

If there is a weak point, it is where the spokes connect to the hub - the ends of the spokes are quite fine and I suspect that they could twist or bend if exposed to too much force. Therefore, when I open the umbrella, I always make sure to start opening it when it is facing downwards so that I don't place too much force on the spoke ends. Once it's open, though, it feels very robust and I haven't had any problems in windy weather.

I bought mine from a friend, who imported a number of them through an Italian contact. My friend was importing ties and shirts from Italy at the time and I think that his source helped with the umbrellas.

You could also consider Maglia umbrellas. There's a pen and stationery shop in Brisbane that has a few Maglia full-stick umbrellas in the store and they seem to be on the same level as Talarico.
I was going to get this Fox with the black canopy from my local shoe store Double Monk and a fold up model with a dark blue canopy
Fox umbrella - double monk.jpg

but l would really like to get a certain Talarico while l still have the chance (he is in his 80's). I want to go all out with a silk canopy and 1 piece stick that is unshaved with bark still on it.

+ l will get a Fox fold up for convenience.

I have wanted to get this Brigg for ages, but it is too pricey for me.

The Talarico l am eyeing is big bucks too, but l would be getting more bang for my buck...a beautiful strong umbrella with a high level of craftsmanship. It can be my special umbrella. Check out the stick on these, so special.

I have heard of Maglia but they don't speak to me like the Talarico do.

This bloke makes an interesting post about Brigg...says they are hot or miss and some frames are now made in China.

 
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fxh

OG Party Suit Wearer
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6,710
AT sells some umbrellas. Got a small story about that to tell.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,438
AT sells some umbrellas. Got a small story about that to tell.
He sells Fox and Pasoti. What is the story?

btw, l went all out and got a magnificant Talarico umbrella. A true masterpiece! One of the top ones. Really looking forward to being the owner of this.
 
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The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,438
Just bookmarking this link for now. Having tried Derek Rose tracksuit pants l will say they are poor quality (made offshore). Now l have found some tracksuit pants made-in-France and they seem to be decent looking quality.


Tracksuit pants - phillip Gabor 1.jpg


there are also these made-in-France
 
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