The Master List of Forum Approved Clothes Makers, Shoe Makers, and Tailors

Pimpernel Smith

Tone Deaf Daddy
Messages
10,809
I thought the attraction of Ivy was that you could transition from entitled student to fusty old professor without having to overhaul your wardrobe.
In America yes, but in the UK it was all about the button-downs. From my perspective, it's just the source of the Ralph Lauren 80s style which was a great look when it was still rare in the UK before it exploded in the early 90s. Then it was saturated and it was all about the Ralphy logo and has been ever since.

The only Ivy thing I wear now are a pair of Alden's cordovan saddle oxfords, a rare collegiate survivor from before WWII.
 

Kingstonian

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,800
The link doesn't work for me, Shooey. I also did a Google search and tried getting to the website that way, but it didn't work, either.

I bought my Panama hat (actually made in Ecuador, as they all should be) from a local hat shop here in Brisbane. The owner talked to me about the various grades, the fineness of the weave and so on. To be frank, even though you might pay more, it's the sort of thing that I'd prefer to try on and buy in person, rather than buying on the internet.

With regard to flat caps, a felt flat cap just feels a bit odd. I've got a couple of herringbone tweed ones that I inherited from my dad and I like the patterns. The felt would just be a bit "flat", or plain, for my tastes.
I bought an Australian bush hat in Brisbane but I only wear it occasionally in the garden.

It did not turn me into a Big Daddy ...

..but at least it was not a black Terry Pratchett style one.

I should have bought RM Williams boots instead, but I wasn’t really aware of them at the time.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
4,072
Used to have a couple of great links for bespoke shoelace makers. Here is a top quality maker:

These are good for laces that are not available anywhere else. For eg a purple lace for a 2 eyelet derby. They can be bought online, but they are cheap and nasty. Better to pay the money and get true bespoke quality for your Johnny Lobbs etc.
 

Grand Potentate

Supporter of Possible Sexual Deviants
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
37,088
Used to have a couple of great links for bespoke shoelace makers. Here is a top quality maker:

These are good for laces that are not available anywhere else. For eg a purple lace for a 2 eyelet derby. They can be bought online, but they are cheap and nasty. Better to pay the money and get true bespoke quality for your Johnny Lobbs etc.
sorry shooey but if you're shelling out $5k to big jonny lobb they should be giving you enough shoe laces to string yourself up from the rafters with
 

florisgreen

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,543
In America yes, but in the UK it was all about the button-downs. From my perspective, it's just the source of the Ralph Lauren 80s style which was a great look when it was still rare in the UK before it exploded in the early 90s. Then it was saturated and it was all about the Ralphy logo and has been ever since.

The only Ivy thing I wear now are a pair of Alden's cordovan saddle oxfords, a rare collegiate survivor from before WWII.
I think that it was more a European phenomenon. Also here in Germany Ralph Lauren was pretty popular, as well as in Italy. I never got all the interest for a brand that's only about look with no substance (almost everything is made in Asian countries with low standards), with the exception of the "Purple Label". And I even was not fond of that style. In particular, since I have developed a personal style, I dislike button-down collars, not to mention sporting a logo on my wardrobe.
 

florisgreen

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,543
Turnbull and Asser collars, interesting that the Classic collar only dates back to the 1990s:


Very interesting. Honestly I don't like the Turnbull&Asser shirts, as I much prefer the Italian (Neapolitan) style. For example I don't like the button placket and also the collar shapes are not my favourites. Also the finishing is not at the height of their fame, in my opinion. Some time ago they were also available here in Berlin and saw them in person, though not really impressed.
 

florisgreen

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,543
Used to have a couple of great links for bespoke shoelace makers. Here is a top quality maker:

These are good for laces that are not available anywhere else. For eg a purple lace for a 2 eyelet derby. They can be bought online, but they are cheap and nasty. Better to pay the money and get true bespoke quality for your Johnny Lobbs etc.
These look good quality, also wide choice of colours, but frankly I don't like the metal ends.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
4,072
A bookmark for next year.

John Lobb spectator shoos on the 8695 last.

Klein
John Lobb Klein.jpg

or

Stowey
John Lobb stowey 1.jpg

Prestige OxfordsLast
Becketts8000
Cavendish7000
Garnier II7000
Lazenby7000
Marldon7000
Philip II7000
Rothley7000
Seaton7000
Stafford7000
Vienna II7000
Warwick7000
Woodcote8000


Classic OxfordsLast
Ash0215
City8695
City II7000
City III7000
Fore8695
Heath7000
Klein8695
Saunton7000
Staveley8000
Stowey8695
Towcester7000
Weir8695
Winchester7000


Prestige DerbysLast
Archer8000
Elswick7000
Grafton8000
Hastings1105
Marston7000
Philip II Derby7000
Portman7000
Warwick Derby7000
Welham8000
York7000

Classic DerbysLast
Aire8695
Ashton7000
Bay8695
Brackley7000
Cliffe8695
Croft8695
Darby II8695
Darby III7000
Drift8695
Elson8695
Harbour8695
Harlyn8695
Hayle8695
Hollow0015
Isle2099
Milan8695
Penzance1105
Perrier8896
Pierson8695
Tamar8000
Tiverton8000
Weldon8695

Prestige BootsLast
Canonbury7000
Oake7000

Classic BootsLast
Abbot8695B
Alder8695B
Combe0015B
Elmer8695
Endel8695B
Fern7000B
Ferris8695B
Forge0015
Grove0015
Helland8695B
Hinton8695B
Lawry8695B
Quay7000B
Romsey8000
Scott8695
Talland8695B
Wareham8695B
William II Boot9795

Prestige BucklesLast
Chapel8000
Coast7000
Easton7000
Jermyn II7000
John Lobb 20107000
Naseby7000
Philip II Double Buckle7000
Redmire7000
Swyre7000

Classic BucklesLast
Ashill7000
Camborne7000
Derwent8000
Fould8695
Morval0015
Ringmore0015
William9795
William II9795

Prestige LoafersLast
Edward7000
Elm7000
Foxton4596
Keyne0215
Philip II Loafer7000
Warwick Loafer7000

Classic LoafersLast
Aley8695L
Alton4515
Amble4098
Arima6000
Ashley4596
Byrne7810
Evesham7000
Fencote4098
Finedon3198
Jihel4098
Kipling4596
Lopez4395
Tore4395
Trenton7810
Truro4098
Wells0215
 

florisgreen

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,543
Classic Loafers
I have an old John Lobb catalogue from end of the nineties (by the way sold online at $150[!]), where, among other delights, near the Ashley is a stunning loafer called Zilka. Even though discontinued, I think it would be possible to have it as made to order.

Screenshot (164).png
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
4,072
Shoe laces

The forums lack good information on laces, especially laces in unusual lengths and colours.

This seems like a good source:

especially for laces like these for my big John Lobb. Very nice.
Purple laces.jpg

https://shoelacesexpress.com is also recommended, and the laces also seem nice. I originally bought a large bag of laces from shoelacesexpress.com, but they look cheap, and certainly weren't as expensive either. Mine are called fashion laces, so maybe they are different to the `dress laces' advertised on the site.
purple laces 1.jpg

There is also https://www.fabmania-shoe-laces.com . These look o.k too.
purple laces 3.jpg

I will try some of each and compare.

A couple of years ago there were some other really nice companies that sold laces in the U.K and supplied the top shoe companies. There websites no longer exist.
 

Ambrosius08

Well-Known Member
Messages
185
Colourful shoe laces are a fun way to accessorise, but I tend to stay away from anything too bright. Unless wearing very casual shoes like white sneakers, with which the world is your oyster.
 

Otto

Well-Known Member
Messages
172
I find navy and burgundy laces on dark brown shoes work well. Not ostentatious. If you have multiple pairs of the same shoe, it helps to differentiate them.
 

florisgreen

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,543
I find navy and burgundy laces on dark brown shoes work well. Not ostentatious. If you have multiple pairs of the same shoe, it helps to differentiate them.

You already have enough possibilities to achieve nice contrasting matches in your attire, you don't really need to use contrasting laces.
It looks overdone just as contrasting buttonholes.
 

Otto

Well-Known Member
Messages
172
I don't see how. We're not talking about neon green but dark colored, slightly contrasting laces for dark colored shoes. I'm sure most don't notice them.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
4,072
Just making a note for now. Fitting pairs of rtw shoes can be purchased to build confidence you that you will buy/order a shoe that fits. Great service by the sounds of it. Tempting.

 

Grand Potentate

Supporter of Possible Sexual Deviants
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
37,088
Just making a note for now. Fitting pairs of rtw shoes can be purchased to build confidence you that you will buy/order a shoe that fits. Great service by the sounds of it. Tempting.

how are their shoes? i might be blanking but i don't recognize the name.

for $1120 MTM without import or shipping, they should be setting this kind of service up for free.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
4,072
how are their shoes? i might be blanking but i don't recognize the name.

for $1120 MTM without import or shipping, they should be setting this kind of service up for free.
supposed to be tops. A family owned business who are passionate about their shoes and one of the better makers in the world.
 

Grand Potentate

Supporter of Possible Sexual Deviants
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
37,088
supposed to be tops. A family owned business who are passionate about their shoes and one of the better makers in the world.
surprised to hear you don't have experience with them if that's the case. anyone here have first hand experience?
 

Thruth

Big Winter Daddy
Moderator
Messages
21,354
This could be a good shoemaker to try IF they send out trial on shoes.








Very very nice:



First thing that struck me is that they look like other maker's shoes to me despite being sexy shoes mostly in shapes I no longer favour, though apparently big daddy quality and components starting at 1,100 Euros.

Shoegazing digs them.

 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
4,072
It's amazing how far things have come in the shoe world. Once we only had Berluti for rtw, and average made quality. Now we have these types of shoes.

I agree about no longer desiring the sexy shoes. I am more into an Edward Green or Lobb shape in largely safer colours....I am not a younger man that can pull off the sexy shoes anymore, so l enjoy safer shapes that match my look, and that now rules out G&G and Cleverley bespoke (too elegant for me), BUT l still enjoy a sexy shoe and patina sometimes, but when l choose a shoe above it will have to be a fuller shoe with a wider toe (not too elegant).

I am still a sucker for a great patina, but they can be difficult to wear, but l can pull off purple's and navy with the right type of clothes and in the right season and circumstances. A great patina is not something l want for everyday...it is reserved for days when l feel in a light fun mood. .
 

Thruth

Big Winter Daddy
Moderator
Messages
21,354
It's amazing how far things have come in the shoe world. Once we only had Berluti for rtw, and average made quality. Now we have these types of shoes.

I agree about no longer desiring the sexy shoes. I am more into an Edward Green or Lobb shape in largely safer colours....I am not a younger man that can pull off the sexy shoes anymore, so l enjoy safer shapes that match my look, and that now rules out G&G and Cleverley bespoke (too elegant for me), BUT l still enjoy a sexy shoe and patina sometimes, but when l choose a shoe above it will have to be a fuller shoe with a wider toe (not too elegant).

I am still a sucker for a great patina, but they can be difficult to wear, but l can pull off purple's and navy with the right type of clothes and in the right season and circumstances. A great patina is not something l want for everyday...it is reserved for days when l feel in a light fun mood. .
I'm the same way, my sexy shoes have filled out like I have. More AH, more grained leather as I am less suit and more jacket and trousers.
 

Otto

Well-Known Member
Messages
172
So pointy you could stab someone with them. Santa's elves shoos. Maybe they look good on some people, but that toe shape looks absurd on a tall, thin person such as myself.
 

Enrile

Well-Known Member
Messages
178
Maybe this is the place, I think that anyone who travels to Europe can be very useful.


You will find excellence in craftsmanship in all kinds of trades.
I have had the honor of being included in it. https://www.homofaberguide.com/en/discover/discover-antonio-garcia-enrile
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
4,072
Sweatpants made-in-Scotland.


A nice wider leg at the bottom.
PRIVATE_WHITE sweatpants.jpg
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
4,072
Top local aussie bespoke leather craftsman Martin Carswell. Would probably get him to make a wallet and bind a book in leather to start with. May order a duffle bag later on.


 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
4,072

Missed out on my local selection of Merola, so l might eventually take the plunge on these​


Would probably get the 1st link for starters and later the peccary (3rd link).

Lavabre Cadet

Gloves - Lavabre Cadet 1.jpg


Gloves - Lavabre Cadet 2.jpg


Gloves - Lavabre Cadet 3.jpg


and this:

and this:
 
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Panama

Well-Known Member
Messages
844
Sweatpants made-in-Scotland.


A nice wider leg at the bottom.
View attachment 43017
England not Scotland. At that price, I would have hoped that they would have advertised that they are using a premium cotton. Although premium cottons are sometimes very ubiquitous and every where. I wonder how they compare Sunspel?
 

Panama

Well-Known Member
Messages
844
England not Scotland. At that price, I would have hoped that they would have advertised that they are using a premium cotton. Although premium cottons are sometimes very ubiquitous and every where. I wonder how they compare Sunspel?
Sunspel made in Portugal at £120.00 - not on sale.
Orlebar Brown £175.00 - not on sale without a country of origin.
 

Panama

Well-Known Member
Messages
844
My reccomended Shirtmaker is Smyth and Gibson, although I do treat myself to Emma Willis, T&A, and Truzzi. My shoemakers are Loake and Cheaney. My knitwear is John Smedley and any other made in UK knitter. Alan Paine, although off shored is good value for money. Socks are Corgi and Pantherella. My underwear is Hanro and Perofil. My sleepwear is Derek Rose, Bonsoir and Liberty. My Polos are Sunspel, Fedeli, Alan Paine and John Smedley. My Trousers are cords and chinos from BB or Lands End. I am looking at made in UK trousers, my Cordings chinos are very heavy.
I have been impressed by Oliver Brown for made in England shirts and John Henric for knitwear. Jockey undershirts are great. Walker Slater and Cordings have been good for Hawick made Knitwear now that Peter Scott/Hodgson have closed. A Uniqlo Merino roll neck was excellent value.

I have bought the odd item from Gran Sasso and Falconeri. The Saxxon range from BB is impressive, but I can only get former clearance items sold by US eBay sellers.
 
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