The Master List of Forum Approved Clothes Makers, Shoe Makers, and Tailors

[Pimpernel Smith]

I thought the attraction of Ivy was that you could transition from entitled student to fusty old professor without having to overhaul your wardrobe.

In America yes, but in the UK it was all about the button-downs. From my perspective, it's just the source of the Ralph Lauren 80s style which was a great look when it was still rare in the UK before it exploded in the early 90s. Then it was saturated and it was all about the Ralphy logo and has been ever since.

The only Ivy thing I wear now are a pair of Alden's cordovan saddle oxfords, a rare collegiate survivor from before WWII.

 

[Journeyman]

I thought the attraction of Ivy was that you could transition from entitled student to fusty old professor without having to overhaul your wardrobe.

Exactly - you could dress the same way at 60 as you did at 20!

 

[Kingstonian]

The link doesn't work for me, Shooey. I also did a Google search and tried getting to the website that way, but it didn't work, either.

I bought my Panama hat (actually made in Ecuador, as they all should be) from a local hat shop here in Brisbane. The owner talked to me about the various grades, the fineness of the weave and so on. To be frank, even though you might pay more, it's the sort of thing that I'd prefer to try on and buy in person, rather than buying on the internet.

With regard to flat caps, a felt flat cap just feels a bit odd. I've got a couple of herringbone tweed ones that I inherited from my dad and I like the patterns. The felt would just be a bit "flat", or plain, for my tastes.

I bought an Australian bush hat in Brisbane but I only wear it occasionally in the garden.

It did not turn me into a Big Daddy ...

..but at least it was not a black Terry Pratchett style one.

I should have bought RM Williams boots instead, but I wasn’t really aware of them at the time.

 

[The Shooman]

Used to have a couple of great links for bespoke shoelace makers. Here is a top quality maker:

Bespoke Coloured Shoe Laces - Made to Measure

shoe laces pink shoe laces custom shoe laces ribbon shoe laces red shoe laces colored shoe laces dress shoe laces shoe laces UK coloured shoe laces

the-original-laces-company.myshopify.com

These are good for laces that are not available anywhere else. For eg a purple lace for a 2 eyelet derby. They can be bought online, but they are cheap and nasty. Better to pay the money and get true bespoke quality for your Johnny Lobbs etc.

 

[Grand Potentate]

Used to have a couple of great links for bespoke shoelace makers. Here is a top quality maker:

Bespoke Coloured Shoe Laces - Made to Measure

shoe laces pink shoe laces custom shoe laces ribbon shoe laces red shoe laces colored shoe laces dress shoe laces shoe laces UK coloured shoe laces

the-original-laces-company.myshopify.com

These are good for laces that are not available anywhere else. For eg a purple lace for a 2 eyelet derby. They can be bought online, but they are cheap and nasty. Better to pay the money and get true bespoke quality for your Johnny Lobbs etc.

sorry shooey but if you're shelling out $5k to big jonny lobb they should be giving you enough shoe laces to string yourself up from the rafters with

 

[florisgreen]

In America yes, but in the UK it was all about the button-downs. From my perspective, it's just the source of the Ralph Lauren 80s style which was a great look when it was still rare in the UK before it exploded in the early 90s. Then it was saturated and it was all about the Ralphy logo and has been ever since.

The only Ivy thing I wear now are a pair of Alden's cordovan saddle oxfords, a rare collegiate survivor from before WWII.

I think that it was more a European phenomenon. Also here in Germany Ralph Lauren was pretty popular, as well as in Italy. I never got all the interest for a brand that's only about look with no substance (almost everything is made in Asian countries with low standards), with the exception of the "Purple Label". And I even was not fond of that style. In particular, since I have developed a personal style, I dislike button-down collars, not to mention sporting a logo on my wardrobe.

 

[florisgreen]

Turnbull and Asser collars, interesting that the Classic collar only dates back to the 1990s:

Very interesting. Honestly I don't like the Turnbull&Asser shirts, as I much prefer the Italian (Neapolitan) style. For example I don't like the button placket and also the collar shapes are not my favourites. Also the finishing is not at the height of their fame, in my opinion. Some time ago they were also available here in Berlin and saw them in person, though not really impressed.

 

[florisgreen]

Used to have a couple of great links for bespoke shoelace makers. Here is a top quality maker:

Bespoke Coloured Shoe Laces - Made to Measure

shoe laces pink shoe laces custom shoe laces ribbon shoe laces red shoe laces colored shoe laces dress shoe laces shoe laces UK coloured shoe laces

the-original-laces-company.myshopify.com

These are good for laces that are not available anywhere else. For eg a purple lace for a 2 eyelet derby. They can be bought online, but they are cheap and nasty. Better to pay the money and get true bespoke quality for your Johnny Lobbs etc.

These look good quality, also wide choice of colours, but frankly I don't like the metal ends.

 

[The Shooman]

These look good quality, also wide choice of colours, but frankly I don't like the metal ends.

get them without the metal ends.

 

[The Shooman]

A bookmark for next year.

John Lobb spectator shoos on the 8695 last.

Klein


or

Stowey

Prestige Oxfords	Last
Becketts	8000
Cavendish	7000
Garnier II	7000
Lazenby	7000
Marldon	7000
Philip II	7000
Rothley	7000
Seaton	7000
Stafford	7000
Vienna II	7000
Warwick	7000
Woodcote	8000

Classic Oxfords	Last
Ash	0215
City	8695
City II	7000
City III	7000
Fore	8695
Heath	7000
Klein	8695
Saunton	7000
Staveley	8000
Stowey	8695
Towcester	7000
Weir	8695
Winchester	7000

Prestige Derbys	Last
Archer	8000
Elswick	7000
Grafton	8000
Hastings	1105
Marston	7000
Philip II Derby	7000
Portman	7000
Warwick Derby	7000
Welham	8000
York	7000

Classic Derbys	Last
Aire	8695
Ashton	7000
Bay	8695
Brackley	7000
Cliffe	8695
Croft	8695
Darby II	8695
Darby III	7000
Drift	8695
Elson	8695
Harbour	8695
Harlyn	8695
Hayle	8695
Hollow	0015
Isle	2099
Milan	8695
Penzance	1105
Perrier	8896
Pierson	8695
Tamar	8000
Tiverton	8000
Weldon	8695

Prestige Boots	Last
Canonbury	7000
Oake	7000

Classic Boots	Last
Abbot	8695B
Alder	8695B
Combe	0015B
Elmer	8695
Endel	8695B
Fern	7000B
Ferris	8695B
Forge	0015
Grove	0015
Helland	8695B
Hinton	8695B
Lawry	8695B
Quay	7000B
Romsey	8000
Scott	8695
Talland	8695B
Wareham	8695B
William II Boot	9795

Prestige Buckles	Last
Chapel	8000
Coast	7000
Easton	7000
Jermyn II	7000
John Lobb 2010	7000
Naseby	7000
Philip II Double Buckle	7000
Redmire	7000
Swyre	7000

Classic Buckles	Last
Ashill	7000
Camborne	7000
Derwent	8000
Fould	8695
Morval	0015
Ringmore	0015
William	9795
William II	9795

Prestige Loafers	Last
Edward	7000
Elm	7000
Foxton	4596
Keyne	0215
Philip II Loafer	7000
Warwick Loafer	7000

Classic Loafers	Last
Aley	8695L
Alton	4515
Amble	4098
Arima	6000
Ashley	4596
Byrne	7810
Evesham	7000
Fencote	4098
Finedon	3198
Jihel	4098
Kipling	4596
Lopez	4395
Tore	4395
Trenton	7810
Truro	4098
Wells	0215

John Lobb Core Collection and By Request

We offer John Lobb By Request (Made To Order) from €150 including VAT. Also note that the extensive John Lobb Core Collection offers the possibility to order a customised pair of shoes without a surcharge. Dozens of styles and materials are available in the Core Collection, many of which can be...

www.skoaktiebolaget.com

 

[florisgreen]

Classic Loafers

I have an old John Lobb catalogue from end of the nineties (by the way sold online at $150[!]), where, among other delights, near the Ashley is a stunning loafer called Zilka. Even though discontinued, I think it would be possible to have it as made to order.

 

[The Shooman]

Shoe laces

The forums lack good information on laces, especially laces in unusual lengths and colours.

This seems like a good source:

Shoe String | Replacement Shoe Laces | Shoe Care

Shoe Care Products and Replacement Shoe Laces from Shoe String Laces, Leicestershire, UK

www.shoestringuk.com

especially for laces like these for my big John Lobb. Very nice.


https://shoelacesexpress.com is also recommended, and the laces also seem nice. I originally bought a large bag of laces from shoelacesexpress.com, but they look cheap, and certainly weren't as expensive either. Mine are called fashion laces, so maybe they are different to the `dress laces' advertised on the site.


There is also https://www.fabmania-shoe-laces.com . These look o.k too.


I will try some of each and compare.

A couple of years ago there were some other really nice companies that sold laces in the U.K and supplied the top shoe companies. There websites no longer exist.

 

[Ambrosius08]

Colourful shoe laces are a fun way to accessorise, but I tend to stay away from anything too bright. Unless wearing very casual shoes like white sneakers, with which the world is your oyster.

 

[florisgreen]

Colourful shoe laces are a fun way to accessorise, but I tend to stay away from anything too bright. Unless wearing very casual shoes like white sneakers, with which the world is your oyster.

Using laces in contrasting colour looks cheap and tacky in my eyes.

 

[Otto]

I find navy and burgundy laces on dark brown shoes work well. Not ostentatious. If you have multiple pairs of the same shoe, it helps to differentiate them.

 

[Otto]

Those second two purple ones are too bright, imo.

 

[florisgreen]

I find navy and burgundy laces on dark brown shoes work well. Not ostentatious. If you have multiple pairs of the same shoe, it helps to differentiate them.

You already have enough possibilities to achieve nice contrasting matches in your attire, you don't really need to use contrasting laces.
It looks overdone just as contrasting buttonholes.

 

[Otto]

I don't see how. We're not talking about neon green but dark colored, slightly contrasting laces for dark colored shoes. I'm sure most don't notice them.

 

[The Shooman]

Just making a note for now. Fitting pairs of rtw shoes can be purchased to build confidence you that you will buy/order a shoe that fits. Great service by the sounds of it. Tempting.

fitting pair

www.paoloscaforanapoli.com

 

[Grand Potentate]

Just making a note for now. Fitting pairs of rtw shoes can be purchased to build confidence you that you will buy/order a shoe that fits. Great service by the sounds of it. Tempting.

fitting pair

www.paoloscaforanapoli.com

how are their shoes? i might be blanking but i don't recognize the name.

for $1120 MTM without import or shipping, they should be setting this kind of service up for free.

 

[The Shooman]

how are their shoes? i might be blanking but i don't recognize the name.

for $1120 MTM without import or shipping, they should be setting this kind of service up for free.

supposed to be tops. A family owned business who are passionate about their shoes and one of the better makers in the world.

 

[Grand Potentate]

supposed to be tops. A family owned business who are passionate about their shoes and one of the better makers in the world.

surprised to hear you don't have experience with them if that's the case. anyone here have first hand experience?

 

[The Shooman]

This could be a good shoemaker to try IF they send out trial on shoes.








Very very nice:

 

[Thruth]

This could be a good shoemaker to try IF they send out trial on shoes.








Very very nice:

First thing that struck me is that they look like other maker's shoes to me despite being sexy shoes mostly in shapes I no longer favour, though apparently big daddy quality and components starting at 1,100 Euros.

Shoegazing digs them.

Buyer's guide - Acme Shoemaker - Shoegazing.com

One of the most interesting new brands that's been introduced lately is Acme Shoemaker. Based in Beijing, they are a serious contender to making the

shoegazing.com

 

[The Shooman]

It's amazing how far things have come in the shoe world. Once we only had Berluti for rtw, and average made quality. Now we have these types of shoes.

I agree about no longer desiring the sexy shoes. I am more into an Edward Green or Lobb shape in largely safer colours....I am not a younger man that can pull off the sexy shoes anymore, so l enjoy safer shapes that match my look, and that now rules out G&G and Cleverley bespoke (too elegant for me), BUT l still enjoy a sexy shoe and patina sometimes, but when l choose a shoe above it will have to be a fuller shoe with a wider toe (not too elegant).

I am still a sucker for a great patina, but they can be difficult to wear, but l can pull off purple's and navy with the right type of clothes and in the right season and circumstances. A great patina is not something l want for everyday...it is reserved for days when l feel in a light fun mood. .

 

[Thruth]

It's amazing how far things have come in the shoe world. Once we only had Berluti for rtw, and average made quality. Now we have these types of shoes.

I agree about no longer desiring the sexy shoes. I am more into an Edward Green or Lobb shape in largely safer colours....I am not a younger man that can pull off the sexy shoes anymore, so l enjoy safer shapes that match my look, and that now rules out G&G and Cleverley bespoke (too elegant for me), BUT l still enjoy a sexy shoe and patina sometimes, but when l choose a shoe above it will have to be a fuller shoe with a wider toe (not too elegant).

I am still a sucker for a great patina, but they can be difficult to wear, but l can pull off purple's and navy with the right type of clothes and in the right season and circumstances. A great patina is not something l want for everyday...it is reserved for days when l feel in a light fun mood. .

I'm the same way, my sexy shoes have filled out like I have. More AH, more grained leather as I am less suit and more jacket and trousers.

 

[Otto]

So pointy you could stab someone with them. Santa's elves shoos. Maybe they look good on some people, but that toe shape looks absurd on a tall, thin person such as myself.

 

[Enrile]

Maybe this is the place, I think that anyone who travels to Europe can be very useful.

Homo Faber

Homo Faber is a cultural movement centred on creative artisans. Its signature projects are an online guide, an international biennial and education programmes for the next generations.

www.homofaberguide.com

You will find excellence in craftsmanship in all kinds of trades.
I have had the honor of being included in it. https://www.homofaberguide.com/en/discover/discover-antonio-garcia-enrile

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

Has Duchamp gone, or just looking for a new owner:

Duchamp London | Tailoring For The Modern Man | Menswear

Founded in 1989, London. Duchamp has established a design philosophy centred on creating directional Menswear and Accessories, which epitomises accessible luxury. Shop the latest collection now.

www.duchamplondon.com

 

[The Shooman]

PEROFIL under garments

Underpants
https://www.perofil.com/eu/briefs.html

undershirts

Men's Underwear Shirts: Comfortable and Elegant | Perofil

Undershirts cannot go missing in every man's drawer. Perofil offers a broad range of T-shirts and vests.

www.perofil.com

 

[The Shooman]

Sweatpants made-in-Scotland.

The Jersey Collection

Elevated wardrobe staples handmade in England using the finest cashmere, cotton and merino wool yarns.

www.privatewhitevc.com

A nice wider leg at the bottom.

 

[The Shooman]

Top local aussie bespoke leather craftsman Martin Carswell. Would probably get him to make a wallet and bind a book in leather to start with. May order a duffle bag later on.

Handmade Leather Goods | Australia | Carswell Leathergoods

Martin Carswell is a traditionally trained leather craftsman with a workshop in Melbourne. Bespoke and custom made leather goods are made by hand to the highest standards using only the finest leathers sourced from Australia and Europe. Carswell leathergoods is Melbourne's premier custom leather...

www.carswellleathergoods.com

Martin Carswell (@carswell_leather) • Instagram photos and videos

14K Followers, 1,274 Following, 791 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Martin Carswell (@carswell_leather)

www.instagram.com

 

[The Shooman]

Missed out on my local selection of Merola, so l might eventually take the plunge on these​

Would probably get the 1st link for starters and later the peccary (3rd link).

Lavabre Cadet​

Leather city gloves in black lambskin | Camille Fournet

Handmade by master artisans, the Camille Fournet's city gloves combed seam black lambskin is a timeless, refined and durable accessory.

www.camillefournet.com

Touchscreen gloves with saddle stitching |Camille Fournet

Our city touchscreen gloves with saddle stitching is a timeless, refined and durable accessory. Luxury leather glove for men. Modern and chic.

www.camillefournet.com

Luxury leather gloves - Camille Fournet

Discover the world of made in France luxury leather gloves by Camille Fournet, for both men and women.

www.camillefournet.com

and this:

Lavabre Cadet : Carpincho Gloves : Dark Brown

From the onset, the prestigious glove-maker Lavabre Cadet grant the same level of excellence to all its clients from Haute Couture (Hermès, Dior or Chanel), the cinema industry or any private individual looking for an exclusive realization by...

www.beige-habilleur.com

and this:

Lavabre Cadet : « Thief » Gloves : Black

From the onset, the prestigious glove-maker Lavabre Cadet grant the same level of excellence to all its clients from Haute Couture (Hermès, Dior or Chanel), the cinema industry or any private individual looking for an exclusive realization by...

www.beige-habilleur.com

 

[Panama]

Sweatpants made-in-Scotland.

The Jersey Collection

Elevated wardrobe staples handmade in England using the finest cashmere, cotton and merino wool yarns.

www.privatewhitevc.com

A nice wider leg at the bottom.
View attachment 43017

England not Scotland. At that price, I would have hoped that they would have advertised that they are using a premium cotton. Although premium cottons are sometimes very ubiquitous and every where. I wonder how they compare Sunspel?

 

[Panama]

England not Scotland. At that price, I would have hoped that they would have advertised that they are using a premium cotton. Although premium cottons are sometimes very ubiquitous and every where. I wonder how they compare Sunspel?

Sunspel made in Portugal at £120.00 - not on sale.
Orlebar Brown £175.00 - not on sale without a country of origin.

 

[Panama]

My reccomended Shirtmaker is Smyth and Gibson, although I do treat myself to Emma Willis, T&A, and Truzzi. My shoemakers are Loake and Cheaney. My knitwear is John Smedley and any other made in UK knitter. Alan Paine, although off shored is good value for money. Socks are Corgi and Pantherella. My underwear is Hanro and Perofil. My sleepwear is Derek Rose, Bonsoir and Liberty. My Polos are Sunspel, Fedeli, Alan Paine and John Smedley. My Trousers are cords and chinos from BB or Lands End. I am looking at made in UK trousers, my Cordings chinos are very heavy.

I have been impressed by Oliver Brown for made in England shirts and John Henric for knitwear. Jockey undershirts are great. Walker Slater and Cordings have been good for Hawick made Knitwear now that Peter Scott/Hodgson have closed. A Uniqlo Merino roll neck was excellent value.

I have bought the odd item from Gran Sasso and Falconeri. The Saxxon range from BB is impressive, but I can only get former clearance items sold by US eBay sellers.

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

The Saxxon range from BB is impressive, but I can only get former clearance items sold by US eBay sellers.

Checked out their website just now. There's next to nothing there. Looks like they're heading for a Gieves & Hawkes type ending.

 

[The Shooman]

Will bookmark this excellent company. They sell organic sheets, pillows etc. They make manufacture the top mattresses, but instead of paying $5,000 + for a top one you can get them for under $2,000. No synthetics and other garbage, all the top stuff without the rip off prices.

organic cotton mattresses, sheets, pillows, futons, beds

Australian manufacturer of organic bed linen, blankets, mattress, futon, baby nursery made with 100% GOTS Certified Organic Cotton. Non-Toxic Hardwood Furniture

organature.com

 

[Nashav]

Do you guys have recommendations for RTW shops for sport coats in London - with a soft shoulder ideally?
I just can't justify the cost of bespoke at the moment but I am happy to pay up to £1200.
I do know of brands like Besnard, Pini Parma, Cavour but as they are not based in the U.K, the Custom Tax will hit like a truck.
Drake's tends to be nice but I think that it is overpriced, especially when they apparently have other companies making their tailoring...
Natalino is very reasonably priced but I have never tried any of their products at all.
Angloitalian is great but they have no stock for their most appealing jackets. I tried their single breasted blazer, a while ago, and it fitted well and would require very little alterations. Not a fan of the belly for their double-breasted house style.
The last one I checked was Timothy Everest but their reviews are mediocre.
As for Boggi, SuitSupply, I would rather not go there.

Any other suggestions?

 

[belinmad]

Cad has a new RTW offering. Not particularly soft though

Jackets - Cad & The Dandy

Our ready to wear jackets sit at the core of our collection. Made to the same standards as our bespoke clothing. An ideal choice when looking to update your wardrobe. Choose from softly tailored crisp linens, stretch wool jerseys and textured seasonal tweeds.

www.cadandthedandy.co.uk