fxh
OG Party Suit Wearer
- Messages
- 8,912
The Nazi Aesthetic in Fashion - Pt 2
Continued
White nationalist organizations often sell clothing and other merchandise on their Web sites and provide links to other white power clothing retailers. The National Socialist Movement organization sells white power clothing from their NSM88 Records Web site. Stormfront (whose Web site proclaims that it is the “largest pro-White online community in the world”) also facilitates the sales of clothing through chat rooms, regularly posting answers to questions from members on obtaining white power clothing. The number of online retailers of white power clothing has grown. For example, the Texas-based Aryan Wear offered a wide variety of white power clothing for men, women, and children, but the company ceased to exist on or around 1 January 2014, when the owner created a new online site, White Trash Rebel. When in operation, Aryan Wear had a commitment to their desired customers, not only in products and customer service, but also by providing links to various sites of interest to the white power community. Other online retailers such as TightRope offer “Cool Stuff for White Folks,” including white power clothing for infants and toddlers such as onesies and T-shirts; Micetrap Records & Distribution LLC offers a variety of clothing items as well, such as the “Adolf Hitler Smiley Face T-Shirt” and other apparel with an “Aryan Pride” theme.
White nationalist organizations are focusing recruitment efforts on young, college-educated professionals, who reject the stereotypical neo-Nazi racist skinhead look associated with violence (for example, shaved head, heavily tattooed skin, all-black clothing, Dr. Martens boots, swastikas). Young, upwardly mobile white nationalists prefer message clothing that is fashionable and more in sync with their lifestyle. White power manufacturers and retailers are responding to this new white nationalist consumer group with upscale clothing lines that have no overtly white nationalist symbols as motifs.
The leader in this trend is the Thor Steinar Nordic Company, founded in Germany in 1999. Thor Steinar clothing offers stylish, high-quality clothing for men, women, and children, described on the company’s Web site as a “unique, sporty maritime lifestyle label.”Although the Thor Steinar company makes no direct reference to fascist ideology, the brand has been labeled by the Federal Republic of Germany’s domestic intelligence agency Bundesamt für Verfassungsschutz (Federal Office for the Protection of the Constitution) as “an identifying mark for right extremists.” Wearing Thor Steiner clothing is banned in German state parliaments, as well as at many sports events. Thor Steinar retail outlets are routinely vandalized by far-left extremists, and many local governments and communities attempt to close the stores in their jurisdictions.
Thor Steinar has been a controversial clothing company from its inception. The first controversy was the company logo, a combination of Nordic runes that were significant to the Nazis (the tiwaz and sowilo runes) and are also part of the symbol for the Thule Seminar, a right-wing German think tank founded in 1980. After a court battle, Thor Steinar changed the logo to the gyfu rune, although the original logo is still being used on the company Web site. The names of clothing styles are also controversial: one brand of jeans was named “Rudolf” after Rudolf Hess, Hitler’s deputy. Thor Steinar has provoked the Norwegian government by naming their retail stores in Germany after Norwegian city names such as Tøsberg, the oldest city in Norway. In 2012, Thor Steinar named their Chemnitz store “Brevik,” in honor of the Norwegian city of Brevik. The Norwegian government and those who monitor right-wing activism considered the name to be a reference to Andrew Behring Breivik, the Norwegian mass murderer. Another dispute with the Norwegian government involves Thor Steinar’s use of the Norwegian flag as a clothing motif. Those who study the growth of right-wing extremism in Europe contend that the Thor Steinar brand aids the spread of white nationalism; the company maintains that they are merely selling clothing,not ideology. Because of its fashionable styles, high quality, and identification as a Nordic brand, Thor Steinar clothing and accessories continue to grow in popularity with white nationalists, and are available worldwide through the Internet.
The popularity of the Thor Steinar brand has been copied by a number of white power clothing companies, such as Erik & Sons’ Viking Brand. Most of these companies are based in Germany; demand for their clothing continues to grow and it is very popular in the United States, the United Kingdom, and other European countries. The Internet plays an important role in the marketing and sales of white power clothing internationally.
White power clothing brands that are offered on the Internet include Ansgar Aryan (with product lines Aryan Resistance, Warriors of the Light, and Hyperborea), Doberman’s Aggressive, Masterrace Europe, Outlaw, Reconquista (with product lines RCQT, Ein Ring uns zu Knechten [One Ring to Rule Us All], Deus vult [God wills it], and Rizist), Blizkrieg, and Troublemaker Germany/ACAB (All Cops Are Bastards). Popular clothing styles with brand logos include T-shirts, hoodies, pants, shorts, vests, and jackets, and the quality of the product is an important selling point. Because many white power clothing styles are virtually indistinguishable from mainstream popular fashion styles, there is growing concern among white nationalist fashion consumers and retailers that white power clothing may be purchased by nonwhite minority fashion consumers, the groups that are the focus of white nationalist racism. To circumvent this, online white power clothing retailers include on their home pages—or “About us” pages—company philosophies that directly relate to white power ideology, using the themes of white pride, racial purity, a shared Aryan or Nordic heritage, and Nordic mythology. Nordic mythology is a popular theme used in the emotional branding of white power clothing; companies create appeal for these brands by referring to legendary Nordic heroes and eras as evidence of past glory and aspiration for the future, and by using models that are the Aryan ideal: white, preferably blond, and blue-eyed.
the swastika. The swastika predates recorded history and is believed to have originated on the Indian subcontinent. The word “swastika” comes from ancient Sanskrit—“to be well”—and is a symbol of auspiciousness, good fortune, and blessing. The swastika is considered to be one of the oldest Aryan symbols; “Aryan” in this context refers to the early use of the term—a speaker of an Indo-European language. Whether as a result of cultural parallelism or cultural migration, the swastika appears as a motif in ancient cultures of Asia, Europe, Africa, and North, South, and Central America. In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, Aryan symbols became associated with racial ideologies that assumed superiority of the white race. Adolf Hitler selected the swastika as the symbol for his new Reich, stating in Mein Kampf: “The swastika signified the mission allotted to us—the struggle for the victory of Aryan mankind.” Neo-Nazis and white supremacists wear the swastika as the symbol of white power and pride. For those of Buddhist, Jainist, and Hindu belief traditions, the swastika remains a symbol of good fortune and blessing; since the 1930s, for most non-Westerners, the swastika has represented the evil of the Nazi regime.
The Celtic cross is another symbol popular with individuals who espouse white pride ideology, and who may use it as a clothing design motif and a tattoo design. Originally a pagan symbol, it was later adopted by early Celtic Christians. The Celtic cross was co-opted by the neo-Nazi movement in the late twentieth century and is used as a symbol for many white nationalist organizations, such as Stormfront. The meaning of this symbol may be misinterpreted, because many people of Irish (Gaelic) heritage wear the Celtic cross to represent pride in their ethnic heritage, not as evidence of their adherence to a racist ideology.
The Totenkopf (skull) refers to the death’s head symbol in the form of the skull and crossbones. Historically, the totenkopf is the international symbol for danger and death. It was used as the insignia of the SS-Totenkopfverbände (Death’s Head Units), the branch of the SS responsible for the Nazi concentration camps; the symbol was also used as the insignia of German military Panzer units. The totenkopf is similar to the skull and crossbones associated with piracy, commonly called the Jolly Roger, but differs in the orientation of the skull. The totenkopf skull is usually presented in the three-quarter turned view, resting on two crossed long bones (femurs), and the Jolly Roger is typically presented with the skull in a front-facing position with two crossed long bones underneath it.
believed in the divinatory power of runes and incorporated many of them into SS military uniform insignia. Distinctive Nazi runes include the double sig rune (double thunderbolts), the symbol of the Schutzstaffel; the Wolfsangel (wolf’s hook) a contrived rune, believed to possess magic powers to ward off danger; the Toten rune (death rune) used on the graves of fallen soldiers; the Leben rune (life rune), the symbol of life; the tyr rune (battle or arrow rune) representing Tyr, the god of war, symbolic of leadership in battle; the hagel rune, used in the SS-Ehrenring (SS honor ring or death’s head ring), representing faith in victory; and the odal rune, symbolic of the union of the homeland and family in one race.
Runes are popular with neo-Nazi and white supremacist groups because of their association with the Third Reich and Nordic and Aryan cultures. The clean, geometric lines of runes make them popular as graphic designs on clothing and as tattoos. Additional meanings have been assigned to the original meanings of many runes, serving as coded communication. Examples include the use of the double sig rune and the Toten rune to indicate that the person wearing these runes may have killed a non-Aryan (a nonwhite person). Runes are also important to people of Norse heritage and so may be used without expressing a belief in white supremacy, which further suggests that these symbols are open to different meanings and interpretations.
Alphanumeric codes are an effective method of presenting the white supremacist brand in regions or at venues where white power clothing is illegal or banned.
The white supremacist alphanumeric code assigns a number to a letter of the alphabet (that is, to say 1=A, 2=B, 3=C, and so on). Numbers are combined in specific order and are interpreted by those who understand the code: for example, the combination 18=AH=Adolf Hitler. Number combinations can represent ideological statements—the number 14 references white supremacist David Lane’s “14 words”: “We must secure the existence of our people and a future for white children.” Alphanumeric codes can reference an important event to white supremacists—“168:1” denotes the number of people killed in the Oklahoma City bombing (168) by Timothy McVeigh (1); the code might be used as a way to honor McVeigh’s act. Some combinations involve mathematics—the number “41” signifies “white racist” and is derived by adding 23 (the letter “W”) and 18 (the letter “R”) to get a total of 41.
acronyms are used as encoded messages. They are also popular clothing motifs, especially as T-shirt graphic designs.
The predominant message of racist acronyms is racial purity. Race-based acronyms include RaHoWa (Racial Holy War), SWP (Supreme White Power), WPWW (White Pride World Wide), ORION (Our Race Is Our Nation) and ROA (Race Over All). Racial acronyms are also popular tattoo designs, and are also used as salutations and closings during face-to-face and Internet conversations.
mythology of the Nordic and Germanic historical past is an important component of the white supremacist movement. Gods, goddesses, Valkyries, and legendary heroes are common graphic designs for T-shirts. The Third Reich has also become part of the historical past of white supremacists. The vast and effective propaganda machine of the Third Reich produced military and propaganda posters that are used as graphic designs on clothing. Reproductions of military recruitment posters, with an image of an idealized Aryan soldier coupled with an inspirational slogan, are especially popular.
The most desirable graphic design used on clothing is the image of Adolf Hitler. The carefully crafted images of Hitler by Joseph Goebbels’ propaganda ministry include photographs, film, and illustrations presenting Hitler as strong, decisive, and in control. The use of such images on modern white power clothing is accompanied by Nazi slogans or quotes from Hitler’s speeches. Hitler’s image and words allow white supremacists to declare their allegiance to the movement, express nostalgia for his leadership, and convey hopeful optimism for the ultimate victory of his ideology.
http://www.adl.org/combating-hate/hate-on-display/c/celtic-cross.html#.U6HM2Iwo59A. © 2014 Anti-Defamation League.
www.dw.de/fashion-labels-worn-by-europes-skinheads-restore-their-reputation/a-5226933. © 2014 Deutsche Welle.
Continued
White nationalist organizations often sell clothing and other merchandise on their Web sites and provide links to other white power clothing retailers. The National Socialist Movement organization sells white power clothing from their NSM88 Records Web site. Stormfront (whose Web site proclaims that it is the “largest pro-White online community in the world”) also facilitates the sales of clothing through chat rooms, regularly posting answers to questions from members on obtaining white power clothing. The number of online retailers of white power clothing has grown. For example, the Texas-based Aryan Wear offered a wide variety of white power clothing for men, women, and children, but the company ceased to exist on or around 1 January 2014, when the owner created a new online site, White Trash Rebel. When in operation, Aryan Wear had a commitment to their desired customers, not only in products and customer service, but also by providing links to various sites of interest to the white power community. Other online retailers such as TightRope offer “Cool Stuff for White Folks,” including white power clothing for infants and toddlers such as onesies and T-shirts; Micetrap Records & Distribution LLC offers a variety of clothing items as well, such as the “Adolf Hitler Smiley Face T-Shirt” and other apparel with an “Aryan Pride” theme.
White nationalist organizations are focusing recruitment efforts on young, college-educated professionals, who reject the stereotypical neo-Nazi racist skinhead look associated with violence (for example, shaved head, heavily tattooed skin, all-black clothing, Dr. Martens boots, swastikas). Young, upwardly mobile white nationalists prefer message clothing that is fashionable and more in sync with their lifestyle. White power manufacturers and retailers are responding to this new white nationalist consumer group with upscale clothing lines that have no overtly white nationalist symbols as motifs.
The leader in this trend is the Thor Steinar Nordic Company, founded in Germany in 1999. Thor Steinar clothing offers stylish, high-quality clothing for men, women, and children, described on the company’s Web site as a “unique, sporty maritime lifestyle label.”Although the Thor Steinar company makes no direct reference to fascist ideology, the brand has been labeled by the Federal Republic of Germany’s domestic intelligence agency Bundesamt für Verfassungsschutz (Federal Office for the Protection of the Constitution) as “an identifying mark for right extremists.” Wearing Thor Steiner clothing is banned in German state parliaments, as well as at many sports events. Thor Steinar retail outlets are routinely vandalized by far-left extremists, and many local governments and communities attempt to close the stores in their jurisdictions.
Thor Steinar has been a controversial clothing company from its inception. The first controversy was the company logo, a combination of Nordic runes that were significant to the Nazis (the tiwaz and sowilo runes) and are also part of the symbol for the Thule Seminar, a right-wing German think tank founded in 1980. After a court battle, Thor Steinar changed the logo to the gyfu rune, although the original logo is still being used on the company Web site. The names of clothing styles are also controversial: one brand of jeans was named “Rudolf” after Rudolf Hess, Hitler’s deputy. Thor Steinar has provoked the Norwegian government by naming their retail stores in Germany after Norwegian city names such as Tøsberg, the oldest city in Norway. In 2012, Thor Steinar named their Chemnitz store “Brevik,” in honor of the Norwegian city of Brevik. The Norwegian government and those who monitor right-wing activism considered the name to be a reference to Andrew Behring Breivik, the Norwegian mass murderer. Another dispute with the Norwegian government involves Thor Steinar’s use of the Norwegian flag as a clothing motif. Those who study the growth of right-wing extremism in Europe contend that the Thor Steinar brand aids the spread of white nationalism; the company maintains that they are merely selling clothing,not ideology. Because of its fashionable styles, high quality, and identification as a Nordic brand, Thor Steinar clothing and accessories continue to grow in popularity with white nationalists, and are available worldwide through the Internet.
The popularity of the Thor Steinar brand has been copied by a number of white power clothing companies, such as Erik & Sons’ Viking Brand. Most of these companies are based in Germany; demand for their clothing continues to grow and it is very popular in the United States, the United Kingdom, and other European countries. The Internet plays an important role in the marketing and sales of white power clothing internationally.
White power clothing brands that are offered on the Internet include Ansgar Aryan (with product lines Aryan Resistance, Warriors of the Light, and Hyperborea), Doberman’s Aggressive, Masterrace Europe, Outlaw, Reconquista (with product lines RCQT, Ein Ring uns zu Knechten [One Ring to Rule Us All], Deus vult [God wills it], and Rizist), Blizkrieg, and Troublemaker Germany/ACAB (All Cops Are Bastards). Popular clothing styles with brand logos include T-shirts, hoodies, pants, shorts, vests, and jackets, and the quality of the product is an important selling point. Because many white power clothing styles are virtually indistinguishable from mainstream popular fashion styles, there is growing concern among white nationalist fashion consumers and retailers that white power clothing may be purchased by nonwhite minority fashion consumers, the groups that are the focus of white nationalist racism. To circumvent this, online white power clothing retailers include on their home pages—or “About us” pages—company philosophies that directly relate to white power ideology, using the themes of white pride, racial purity, a shared Aryan or Nordic heritage, and Nordic mythology. Nordic mythology is a popular theme used in the emotional branding of white power clothing; companies create appeal for these brands by referring to legendary Nordic heroes and eras as evidence of past glory and aspiration for the future, and by using models that are the Aryan ideal: white, preferably blond, and blue-eyed.
the swastika. The swastika predates recorded history and is believed to have originated on the Indian subcontinent. The word “swastika” comes from ancient Sanskrit—“to be well”—and is a symbol of auspiciousness, good fortune, and blessing. The swastika is considered to be one of the oldest Aryan symbols; “Aryan” in this context refers to the early use of the term—a speaker of an Indo-European language. Whether as a result of cultural parallelism or cultural migration, the swastika appears as a motif in ancient cultures of Asia, Europe, Africa, and North, South, and Central America. In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, Aryan symbols became associated with racial ideologies that assumed superiority of the white race. Adolf Hitler selected the swastika as the symbol for his new Reich, stating in Mein Kampf: “The swastika signified the mission allotted to us—the struggle for the victory of Aryan mankind.” Neo-Nazis and white supremacists wear the swastika as the symbol of white power and pride. For those of Buddhist, Jainist, and Hindu belief traditions, the swastika remains a symbol of good fortune and blessing; since the 1930s, for most non-Westerners, the swastika has represented the evil of the Nazi regime.
The Celtic cross is another symbol popular with individuals who espouse white pride ideology, and who may use it as a clothing design motif and a tattoo design. Originally a pagan symbol, it was later adopted by early Celtic Christians. The Celtic cross was co-opted by the neo-Nazi movement in the late twentieth century and is used as a symbol for many white nationalist organizations, such as Stormfront. The meaning of this symbol may be misinterpreted, because many people of Irish (Gaelic) heritage wear the Celtic cross to represent pride in their ethnic heritage, not as evidence of their adherence to a racist ideology.
The Totenkopf (skull) refers to the death’s head symbol in the form of the skull and crossbones. Historically, the totenkopf is the international symbol for danger and death. It was used as the insignia of the SS-Totenkopfverbände (Death’s Head Units), the branch of the SS responsible for the Nazi concentration camps; the symbol was also used as the insignia of German military Panzer units. The totenkopf is similar to the skull and crossbones associated with piracy, commonly called the Jolly Roger, but differs in the orientation of the skull. The totenkopf skull is usually presented in the three-quarter turned view, resting on two crossed long bones (femurs), and the Jolly Roger is typically presented with the skull in a front-facing position with two crossed long bones underneath it.
believed in the divinatory power of runes and incorporated many of them into SS military uniform insignia. Distinctive Nazi runes include the double sig rune (double thunderbolts), the symbol of the Schutzstaffel; the Wolfsangel (wolf’s hook) a contrived rune, believed to possess magic powers to ward off danger; the Toten rune (death rune) used on the graves of fallen soldiers; the Leben rune (life rune), the symbol of life; the tyr rune (battle or arrow rune) representing Tyr, the god of war, symbolic of leadership in battle; the hagel rune, used in the SS-Ehrenring (SS honor ring or death’s head ring), representing faith in victory; and the odal rune, symbolic of the union of the homeland and family in one race.
Runes are popular with neo-Nazi and white supremacist groups because of their association with the Third Reich and Nordic and Aryan cultures. The clean, geometric lines of runes make them popular as graphic designs on clothing and as tattoos. Additional meanings have been assigned to the original meanings of many runes, serving as coded communication. Examples include the use of the double sig rune and the Toten rune to indicate that the person wearing these runes may have killed a non-Aryan (a nonwhite person). Runes are also important to people of Norse heritage and so may be used without expressing a belief in white supremacy, which further suggests that these symbols are open to different meanings and interpretations.
Alphanumeric codes are an effective method of presenting the white supremacist brand in regions or at venues where white power clothing is illegal or banned.
The white supremacist alphanumeric code assigns a number to a letter of the alphabet (that is, to say 1=A, 2=B, 3=C, and so on). Numbers are combined in specific order and are interpreted by those who understand the code: for example, the combination 18=AH=Adolf Hitler. Number combinations can represent ideological statements—the number 14 references white supremacist David Lane’s “14 words”: “We must secure the existence of our people and a future for white children.” Alphanumeric codes can reference an important event to white supremacists—“168:1” denotes the number of people killed in the Oklahoma City bombing (168) by Timothy McVeigh (1); the code might be used as a way to honor McVeigh’s act. Some combinations involve mathematics—the number “41” signifies “white racist” and is derived by adding 23 (the letter “W”) and 18 (the letter “R”) to get a total of 41.
acronyms are used as encoded messages. They are also popular clothing motifs, especially as T-shirt graphic designs.
The predominant message of racist acronyms is racial purity. Race-based acronyms include RaHoWa (Racial Holy War), SWP (Supreme White Power), WPWW (White Pride World Wide), ORION (Our Race Is Our Nation) and ROA (Race Over All). Racial acronyms are also popular tattoo designs, and are also used as salutations and closings during face-to-face and Internet conversations.
mythology of the Nordic and Germanic historical past is an important component of the white supremacist movement. Gods, goddesses, Valkyries, and legendary heroes are common graphic designs for T-shirts. The Third Reich has also become part of the historical past of white supremacists. The vast and effective propaganda machine of the Third Reich produced military and propaganda posters that are used as graphic designs on clothing. Reproductions of military recruitment posters, with an image of an idealized Aryan soldier coupled with an inspirational slogan, are especially popular.
The most desirable graphic design used on clothing is the image of Adolf Hitler. The carefully crafted images of Hitler by Joseph Goebbels’ propaganda ministry include photographs, film, and illustrations presenting Hitler as strong, decisive, and in control. The use of such images on modern white power clothing is accompanied by Nazi slogans or quotes from Hitler’s speeches. Hitler’s image and words allow white supremacists to declare their allegiance to the movement, express nostalgia for his leadership, and convey hopeful optimism for the ultimate victory of his ideology.
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- http://www.adl.org/combating-hate/hate-on-display/c/totenkopf.html#.U6HLpowo59A. © 2014 Anti-Defamation League.
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