The One-button, Notch Lapel Jacket


Big Winter Daddy
So the one-button suit or odd jacket with peak lapels and jetted pockets is typically accepted by one and all.

But what of the one-button, notch lapel with flapped or even patch pockets?

I tend to favour a one-button closure and while I do like the peak lapel, I see no problem with it in association with flapped pockets, flapped hacking pockets or even patch pockets. I have iterations of all types.

Huntsman has done this for eons so it is not some new fangled fashionista trend but yet it does not seem to resonate well with people.

Some Huntsman examples:

Flap pockets



Welt & two patch [L] three patch [R]

So, aberration or not?
I personally see no real problem with this. It would be good for people with short torsos, where the extra button would add visual length.
I have no problem with it, but I'm a philistine. It does up the jacket on the formality scale for me, though, so the patch pockets look a bit off with it. At least, on the worsted jacket.
Back to the original post. A few thoughts.

I think material/pattern can/does have more of an effect on formality than the choice of button stance/lapel style. Patch pockets will always have a casualising effect with the exception of a Blazer which traditionally takes patch pockets.

For example, a SB 1-btn, notch lapel with patch pockets would be fine in linen, the same configuration in a chalkstripe worsted would not work IMO. Replace the patch pockets with flap and you're good to go. On the other hand, Mohair wouldn't look good with patch pockets but will look superb in a SB 1-btn, notch lapel/peak lapel.

I think the Italians sometimes get it wrong by putting patch pockets on jackets, I've seen them on Flannel chalkies for example. It's not a good look, and in DB format, it's bloody awful.

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