Tweed Jacket

prince nez

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Patch pockets on tweed jackets - a perfect match or an iGent affectation? Browsing through some of Vox's old photos I can't help but think the patch pockets look a bit strange on some of his commissions, and he might have been better served by straight or slanted flap pockets:

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Of course they all look good and this is nitpicking at its best, but we are in pursuit of perfection after all.
 

Thruth

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Patch pockets on tweed jackets - a perfect match or an iGent affectation? Browsing through some of Vox's old photos I can't help but think the patch pockets look a bit strange on some of his commissions, and he might have been better served by straight or slanted flap pockets:

View attachment 7322 View attachment 7324 View attachment 7325 View attachment 7326 View attachment 7327

Of course they all look good and this is nitpicking at its best, but we are in pursuit of perfection after all.
There is non-iGent provenance out there. I waver between liking and not liking patches. The last several jackets were 3 patch. I like not fiddling with flaps but my current thinking is whenever I get to my tailor next with 2 lengths of tweed i have, I will do flaps.

But really i have no good reason to not do patch pockets.
 

Monkeyface

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Patch pockets on tweed jackets - a perfect match or an iGent affectation? Browsing through some of Vox's old photos I can't help but think the patch pockets look a bit strange on some of his commissions, and he might have been better served by straight or slanted flap pockets:

View attachment 7322 View attachment 7324 View attachment 7325 View attachment 7326 View attachment 7327

Of course they all look good and this is nitpicking at its best, but we are in pursuit of perfection after all.
Tweed only with flaps when it's a suit. Otherwise hacking or patch/flapped patch. Vox is correct, you are wrong.
 

doghouse

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Happy Zombie Wednesday

Thoughts on this Hunters of Brora special run Sherland tweed? 360g or 10/11 ounce. For jacketing. Was commissioned by jerry Browne on SF. He has been trying to sell remaining stock since 2014

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Would look similar to this jacket of Vox but his isn't Sheltland
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I like it. Similar blue tone to the straight houndstooth tweed I posted upthread.

 

fxh

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Plenty correct to have tweed with flap not patch, patch only, patch with flap, bellows with and sans flap, hacking or straight..
 

fxh

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Tweed. Well proper tweed is inherently and unambiguously country, rural, rustic, not formal, not city, not smooth. Consequently rural, rustic sporting touches are called for.
 

Monkeyface

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Tweed was made for sporting, specifically shooting. Patch/patch with flap/bellows pockets are best for this, as they're better for shells. Tweed with just flap pockets is incongruous and looks stupid.
 

Thruth

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Tweed was made for sporting, specifically shooting. Patch/patch with flap/bellows pockets are best for this, as they're better for shells. Tweed with just flap pockets is incongruous and looks stupid.
True but tweed is worn more now for non-sporting wear and thus one has to consider that non-patch, non-bellows, non-hacking flapped pockets are reasonable and not out of place.
 

Monkeyface

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True but tweed is worn more now for non-sporting wear and thus one has to consider that non-patch, non-bellows, non-hacking flapped pockets are reasonable and not out of place.
If that's the case, then a tweed sportcoat with flaps is always wrong. Sport coats should have patch hip pockets, because it matches the informality. I guess a tweed suit could have flap pockets.

Flaps/besom pockets are exclusively for suits and dinner/smoking jackers. A navy blazer perhaps as well, if it has metal buttons. All else looks infinitely better with at least hip patch pockets.
 

Thruth

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If that's the case, then a tweed sportcoat with flaps is always wrong. Sport coats should have patch hip pockets, because it matches the informality. I guess a tweed suit could have flap pockets.

Flaps/besom pockets are exclusively for suits and dinner/smoking jackers. A navy blazer perhaps as well, if it has metal buttons. All else looks infinitely better with at least hip patch pockets.
I would submit hat he vast majority of RTW odd jackets have flaps and no patches. Outside of iGentry I would also submit that non-patch is the norm for MTM and bespoke

See doghouse doghouse 's Poole above.
 

Algernon Crisp

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Tweed was made for sporting, specifically shooting. Patch/patch with flap/bellows pockets are best for this, as they're better for shells. Tweed with just flap pockets is incongruous and looks stupid.
Tweed was made for sporting, specifically shooting. Patch/patch with flap/bellows pockets are best for this, as they're better for shells. Tweed with just flap pockets is incongruous and looks stupid.
Tweed pre-dates widespread use for shooting.

If you are using the pocket for shells, you definitely don't want just patch pockets - you'd have bellows pockets with flaps (preferably secured with a button) to prevent them falling out. If the jacket is specifically for shooting, you'd ideally also have a tab for keeping the flap open on whichever side you'd naturally grab your cartridges from.

Patch pockets may be more casual, but they're definitely not more practical.
 

Monkeyface

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I would submit hat he vast majority of RTW odd jackets have flaps and no patches. Outside of iGentry I would also submit that non-patch is the norm for MTM and bespoke

See doghouse doghouse 's Poole above.
Non patch is most certainly not the norm for bespoke. Most Savile row houses will give you patch pockets with a casual fabric.

Bellows pockets are indeed very handy for shooting, but patch pockets will do if you must. Flap pockets don't work at all though.

Also, the original tweed (although it wasn't called tweed back then) in 18th century was made for hunting, fishing and shooting. So yes, it was a casual outerwear fabric, which did not have flap pockets.

Traditionally used for upper class country-clothing like shooting jackets, tweed became popular among the Edwardian middle classes who associated it with the leisurely pursuits of the elite.
Edward Minister and Son (1873). "Gazette of fashion, and cutting-room companion". XXVII. Simpkin, Marshall & Co. p. 31.

A lot of the checks and colours tweeds have were made to mimic the British landscape, as a sort of camouflage.
 
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Thruth

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Oh stop trolling. You know very well that on an everyday basis odd jackets are posted that do not have flap pockets and they aren't viewed as orphaned suit jackets unless they are of a particular fabric more suited to suits.

Lump all odd jackets together and you will see more flaps than patches.

The camouflage and shooting explanations are a bit moot given that most tweed jackets you see posted are not for sport or shooting but for Internet cosplay or even sometimes to wear in public.

You could make the same arguement that any upstanding dapper gentleman would not be caught dead in a plain herringbone tweed without an overcheck yet there the examples are.
 

Monkeyface

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Oh stop trolling. You know very well that on an everyday basis odd jackets are posted that do not have flap pockets and they aren't viewed as orphaned suit jackets unless they are of a particular fabric more suited to suits.

Lump all odd jackets together and you will see more flaps than patches.

The camouflage and shooting explanations are a bit moot given that most tweed jackets you see posted are not for sport or shooting but for Internet cosplay or even sometimes to wear in public.

You could make the same arguement that any upstanding dapper gentleman would not be caught dead in a plain herringbone tweed without an overcheck yet there the examples are.
:troll:
 

Thruth

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I usually only troll when commuting and I don't want to read one of my books. It's more fun on SF, especially with that kid who was going to sew black lapel labels in his bespoke suits, but of course I can't forget DW once in a while.
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Thruth

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Prince Charles is stylish as fuck. Total fuckin' baller.

Look at how your Presidents dress, and then look at how they behave. Coincidence, you say? Coincidence my cock.

Tells you all you need to know.
Damn straight up baller is right!

Safari jacket? Check.

Rad shades? Check

Headdress? WTF?

Too cool to care!
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Thruth

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A tailor speaks:

Despos
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This is how I was taught from old school Italian tailors.
Suits & tuxedos; besom pocket, but is variable with cloth used. You may want flaps on a tweed suit or flannel or less dressy suits.

Sportcoat & topcoat; flaps

Patch pockets; when and where your preference lies.

Flap width and pocket size relate first to the jacket size. 40 chest/30 length will have a smaller pocket and a more narrow flap than a 48 chest/33 length. If you wear a 40 long or a 48 short the flap width should be proportionate. Flap will relate to lapel width second or vice versa.
 

prince nez

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Tweed only with flaps when it's a suit. Otherwise hacking or patch/flapped patch. Vox is correct, you are wrong.
I kno you trollin, but I never said Vox was wrong to have patch pockets, hence the question I posed to illicit discussion.

Though to my eye, some of his 3 patch jackets look like they would benefit from at least a welted breast or possibly flapped hip pockets - not sure why, and don't give a fuck about what Wikipedia says Lord Fontelroy did in 1876 when he was shooting vagrants out the back of his manor house.

Possibly it is about sympathy for the fabric concerned - some tweeds are clearly more rustic than others, as our some jacket cuts.

Cheers!
 

fxh

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I'm on the train home. I'm wearing a vintage ivy Tweed. 2 roll 3, swelled edges, no front dart hooked vent buggy lined burgundy and black kinda birds eye. Looks great.

And it has flaps but no patch pockets. You're all idiots.
 

Monkeyface

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I'm on the train home. I'm wearing a vintage ivy Tweed. 2 roll 3, swelled edges, no front dart hooked vent buggy lined burgundy and black kinda birds eye. Looks great.

And it has flaps but no patch pockets. You're all idiots.
Show us a pic!
 
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