Tweed Jacket

There are enough second hand tweeds around to avoid those with repairs. I would definitely put leather patches on.

My size narrows down choices quite a bit. Now if I could find some non thermoadhesive patches around here...
 
Naturally. And a Rolex Day-Date. Though this is certainly my favorite coat of his. I love how he tones it down here with the roll neck (or with a V-neck jumper as above), though I must admit that the PS is too British/toffee for my taste.

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I also think that the buttoning point is a bit too high and that it would benefit from being a bit lower.

Then again, I'm not a tailor, so I could be entirely wrong!

As it happens the tailor did suggest moving that down a bit but i demurred - i find a lower button point makes jackets look 'cut off'.

As for how short - I'm 5'2". Some dogs are taller than me.
 
As it happens the tailor did suggest moving that down a bit but i demurred - i find a lower button point makes jackets look 'cut off'.

As for how short - I'm 5'2". Some dogs are taller than me.

Ah, that explains your tie knot in your outfit you posted in the what are you wearing today thread
 
Not sure if it really counts as tweed, but this Bottoli Donegal fleck is nice. So much tweed is brown, I like the idea of a blue tweed sport coat.

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^That is nice.

I've also seen some blue, Donegal-fleck tweed jackets made up in fabric from Abraham Moon, but you are right - it's not so common.
 
I have a blue Donegal tweed jacket from Chan. It is a 14-ounce Porter & Harding thornproof--a very handsome and versatile garment. I also have a 12-ounce H&S herringbone Shetland tweed in blue that sees a great deal of use in cooler weather. I suspect the notion that blue tweeds are not quite "on" stems from the days when tweed was mostly meant to be worn on grouse moors.
 
That blue Bottoli donegal (above) is going to be on a Black Friday sale on my size. I wasn’t planning to buy another winter jacket - and especially not navy. But this might be a good time to swap out the navy moleskin I git last year that’s a bit too short.
 
Slow day at work, so I've been cruising the iGent blogs. (yes, THAT slow!). Apparently this was a big sensation last month. Abercrombie and Fitch made an Abraham Moon houndstooth pattern (I don't see a contrasting horizontal pattern, so I guess it isn't a gun check) coat they are describing as a "Dad Coat".

https://www.abercrombie.com/shop/us...9792&cjevent=cb32573d054a11e9803e00d20a1c0e12

Kinda interesting and a good price for the fabric ... but it just seems to be in-between everything. Not formal, not a topcoast, not terribly warm. And that shoulder construction is downright weird.


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Slow day at work, so I've been cruising the iGent blogs. (yes, THAT slow!). Apparently this was a big sensation last month. Abercrombie and Fitch made an Abraham Moon houndstooth pattern (I don't see a contrasting horizontal pattern, so I guess it isn't a gun check) coat they are describing as a "Dad Coat".

https://www.abercrombie.com/shop/us...9792&cjevent=cb32573d054a11e9803e00d20a1c0e12

Kinda interesting and a good price for the fabric ... but it just seems to be in-between everything. Not formal, not a topcoast, not terribly warm. And that shoulder construction is downright weird.


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I would not get overly hyped up with Moon fabric. It is OK. But it is common in low end garments like J Crew and the above jacket
 
Agreed, though that would be a good price ($180) for a nice Moon check - if it were sewn-up into a sportscoat instead of a "Dad Coat"
 
I would not get overly hyped up with Moon fabric. It is OK. But it is common in low end garments like J Crew and the above jacket

Moon fabric is very good, top mill. A lot of the fabric used in RTW is good quality, its just that the make, and fit of the garment is usually crap.

This goes for shirts too.
 
When I was in Uk last month M&S had a bunch of Moon fabric sport coats. A fair few of them were ok. Nice colours and patterns too, a nice blue Donegal, a grey herringbone and some other checks. They had L,M and S too. Not expensive. I had meant to try some on in London. But just never got around to it. The Moon fabric seemed more than fine to me. From memory they had two different designs .. one had 3 patch pockets from memory.
 
The Moon fabric ... 3 patch pockets from memory.

<3

I’ve owned a few Moon tweeds and have beeen very happy with them. They do some lovely trad patterns and are usually fairly thick and practical.
 
Apparently this was a big sensation last month. Abercrombie and Fitch made an Abraham Moon houndstooth pattern (I don't see a contrasting horizontal pattern, so I guess it isn't a gun check) coat they are describing as a "Dad Coat".

From the same site - I think that this is the "how not to wear it" photo:

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I just bought a grey/black/white herringbone sportscoat. What should I pair it with?
 
That reminds me of a B&W houndstooth check tweed jacket I bought from my house prefect at Midland School. He happened to be Charles Webb, the guy who wrote The Graduate and died recently. I kept it for some years.
 
Tweed sportscoats are my favourite type of coats. I will be getting a lighter version of the brown here made up to pair with 22oz dark brown speckled donegal tweed trousers. I think my tailor told me he can get 750 gram tweed, or was it 650 gram?? I have 18 oz tweed trousers, but l need much heavier. I love really heavy trousers. I love my tweed coats to be rough.
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^I have a 560-gram tweed sportcoat--a Porter & Harding "Hartwist," but I don't wear it too often because of its weight and warmth. I always thought that your part of Australia had a climate similar to where I live. A 750-gram tweed would seem more appropriate in the Outer Hebrides or someplace like that.
 
Tweed sportscoats are my favourite type of coats. I will be getting a lighter version of the brown here made up to pair with 22oz dark brown speckled donegal tweed trousers. I think my tailor told me he can get 750 gram tweed, or was it 650 gram?? I have 18 oz tweed trousers, but l need much heavier. I love really heavy trousers. I love my tweed coats to be rough.
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There was a time I wouldn't touch any rough tweed and I would prefer those New Zealand wools. I've come around to the party recently.

I'm in the market for a Donegal tweed jacket. I had one on the late 1980s and feel the need again. Magee 1866 in Dublin have some OTP that I might take a chance with online it will need to be an L version, I don't like the length on the models on the website. Cordings had Donegal tweed last winter, but not this one.
 
I'm getting rid of all my rough tweeds, they don't fit in anywhere. Also a Magee Donegal too heavy and hot to wear anywhere
 
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Below is a gray vintage Ball & Welch (remember it fxh fxh ?) made-in-England 3 button tweed, pictured with Kiton cashmere turtleneck. It is a quality coat and fits nicely. Highend store Georges bought out B&W in the 70's.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_&_Welch
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One of my favourites was the horse rug in very heavy tweed with wider lapels made in Australia by Fletcher Jones pictured with Kiton cashmere turtleneck and 1950's Ballantyne cashmere cardigan. I had the fit altered and it turned out fantastic. I really love this coat because it is bold and a statement piece. Wearing this is like sticking your finger up to the crowds who are too scared to stand out.

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I have about 12 tweed coats that l have had for many years. Can't find tweed coats anymore in the shops in Oz so l will do a few of bespokes.


^I have a 560-gram tweed sportcoat--a Porter & Harding "Hartwist," but I don't wear it too often because of its weight and warmth. I always thought that your part of Australia had a climate similar to where I live. A 750-gram tweed would seem more appropriate in the Outer Hebrides or someplace like that.
It can get very hot in Oz, but for much of the year l feel the cold and like nice chunky knitwear and thick coats. My 34 oz peacoat is good for the coldest days, while my thick horse rug tweeds (maybe 20 oz) don't quite do the job on moderately cold days unless l wear thermal woolens and cashmere layers underneath.

For winter l really enjoy very heavy fabrics. I like my winter coats hard and l like my cashmere hard too.

The great thing about a number of aussie made coats was that they knew how to cut a collar properly. There was an old bunch of tailors that made coats where the collars fit around the neck like bespoke. You don't see that in many of the top makes anymore. The old secrets of cutting a good collar have been lost.
 
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I would never order a 3 button sportscoat normally, but l am going to order one in tweed. A 3 button in tweed makes a lot of sense. Good for the winter with the higher button stance with a turtleneck underneath it. Thick and with hard tweed.

3 button for when l am out and about, and a 2 button for when l am mainly inside. The key is to know what we need for our lifestyles. At this time of my life l am at peace....I know exactly what l like and what l need and in what style, colours and patterns etc. As long as one doesn't overthink things it should be alright.

Nothing like a combination of all brown too. Lighter browns with medium browns and dark browns MIXED PERFECTLY including a pocketsquare. Those days are always the best days; it looks amazing and is different from what most people would dare to try.
 
Last year in the city l ran into a bloke who had the exact same tweed coat as me. I nodded to him, exchanged a few lines and we both went on our way. Such rare odds, and yet it happened.

Cashmere and tweed are my favourite fabrics.
 
Here is that jacket I mentioned previously. Truthfully I do not think it is actually tweed. It is a cashmere herringbone that looks tweedish.
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I'm getting rid of all my rough tweeds, they don't fit in anywhere. Also a Magee Donegal too heavy and hot to wear anywhere

It's cold here at the moment below 5C all day and either freezing or 0.5C in the morning. Ideal for winter jackets.

Here the season for winter jackets is start/middle of November through to end of March. 5 months. Back home you can add a month either side of that, so winter lasts most of the year.
 
The average temperature of the sea ranges from 14.6 °C (58.3 °F) in September to 18.8 °C (65.8 °F) in February;[83] at Port Melbourne, the average sea temperature range is the same.[84]

MonthJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDecYear
Climate data for Melbourne Regional Office (1991–2015)
Record high °C (°F)45.6
(114.1)
46.4
(115.5)
41.7
(107.1)
34.9
(94.8)
28.7
(83.7)
22.4
(72.3)
23.3
(73.9)
26.5
(79.7)
31.4
(88.5)
36.9
(98.4)
40.9
(105.6)
43.7
(110.7)
46.4
(115.5)
Average high °C (°F)27.0
(80.6)
26.9
(80.4)
24.6
(76.3)
21.1
(70.0)
17.6
(63.7)
15.1
(59.2)
14.5
(58.1)
15.9
(60.6)
18.1
(64.6)
20.5
(68.9)
22.9
(73.2)
24.8
(76.6)
20.8
(69.4)
Daily mean °C (°F)21.6
(70.9)
21.7
(71.1)
19.6
(67.3)
16.5
(61.7)
13.7
(56.7)
11.7
(53.1)
11.0
(51.8)
11.9
(53.4)
13.8
(56.8)
15.7
(60.3)
17.9
(64.2)
19.6
(67.3)
16.2
(61.2)
Average low °C (°F)16.1
(61.0)
16.4
(61.5)
14.6
(58.3)
11.8
(53.2)
9.8
(49.6)
8.2
(46.8)
7.5
(45.5)
7.9
(46.2)
9.4
(48.9)
10.9
(51.6)
12.8
(55.0)
14.3
(57.7)
11.6
(52.9)
Record low °C (°F)5.5
(41.9)
4.5
(40.1)
2.8
(37.0)
1.5
(34.7)
−1.1
(30.0)
−2.2
(28.0)
−2.8
(27.0)
−2.1
(28.2)
−0.5
(31.1)
0.1
(32.2)
2.5
(36.5)
4.4
(39.9)
−2.8
(27.0)
Average rainfall mm (inches)44.2
(1.74)
50.2
(1.98)
39.0
(1.54)
53.2
(2.09)
43.9
(1.73)
49.5
(1.95)
39.8
(1.57)
47.0
(1.85)
54.5
(2.15)
55.8
(2.20)
63.3
(2.49)
60.9
(2.40)
600.9
(23.66)
Average rainy days (≥ 1mm)5.65.05.57.18.18.68.39.49.89.07.76.590.6
Average afternoon relative humidity (%)47474750576159535047474651
Mean monthly sunshine hours272.8228.8226.3186.0142.6123.0136.4167.4186.0226.3225.0263.52,384.1
Source 1: Bureau of Meteorology.[85][86][87]
 
The average temperature of the sea ranges from 14.6 °C (58.3 °F) in September to 18.8 °C (65.8 °F) in February;[83] at Port Melbourne, the average sea temperature range is the same.[84]

Climate data for Melbourne Regional Office (1991–2015)
MonthJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDecYear
Record high °C (°F)45.6
(114.1)
46.4
(115.5)
41.7
(107.1)
34.9
(94.8)
28.7
(83.7)
22.4
(72.3)
23.3
(73.9)
26.5
(79.7)
31.4
(88.5)
36.9
(98.4)
40.9
(105.6)
43.7
(110.7)
46.4
(115.5)
Average high °C (°F)27.0
(80.6)
26.9
(80.4)
24.6
(76.3)
21.1
(70.0)
17.6
(63.7)
15.1
(59.2)
14.5
(58.1)
15.9
(60.6)
18.1
(64.6)
20.5
(68.9)
22.9
(73.2)
24.8
(76.6)
20.8
(69.4)
Daily mean °C (°F)21.6
(70.9)
21.7
(71.1)
19.6
(67.3)
16.5
(61.7)
13.7
(56.7)
11.7
(53.1)
11.0
(51.8)
11.9
(53.4)
13.8
(56.8)
15.7
(60.3)
17.9
(64.2)
19.6
(67.3)
16.2
(61.2)
Average low °C (°F)16.1
(61.0)
16.4
(61.5)
14.6
(58.3)
11.8
(53.2)
9.8
(49.6)
8.2
(46.8)
7.5
(45.5)
7.9
(46.2)
9.4
(48.9)
10.9
(51.6)
12.8
(55.0)
14.3
(57.7)
11.6
(52.9)
Record low °C (°F)5.5
(41.9)
4.5
(40.1)
2.8
(37.0)
1.5
(34.7)
−1.1
(30.0)
−2.2
(28.0)
−2.8
(27.0)
−2.1
(28.2)
−0.5
(31.1)
0.1
(32.2)
2.5
(36.5)
4.4
(39.9)
−2.8
(27.0)
Average rainfall mm (inches)44.2
(1.74)
50.2
(1.98)
39.0
(1.54)
53.2
(2.09)
43.9
(1.73)
49.5
(1.95)
39.8
(1.57)
47.0
(1.85)
54.5
(2.15)
55.8
(2.20)
63.3
(2.49)
60.9
(2.40)
600.9
(23.66)
Average rainy days (≥ 1mm)5.65.05.57.18.18.68.39.49.89.07.76.590.6
Average afternoon relative humidity (%)47474750576159535047474651
Mean monthly sunshine hours272.8228.8226.3186.0142.6123.0136.4167.4186.0226.3225.0263.52,384.1
Source 1: Bureau of Meteorology.[85][86][87]

Daily mean tells you it isn't a climate for heavy tweeds. You need to be about 7C and lower.
 

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