UK Bespoke experiences (Capital of shilling)

B

BespeakUK

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Objective: Discuss and expose travelling eyetalians we have used and resident shillers
With the proliferation of resident partime igent shillers and fulltime shillers, the UK appears to be the shilling capital of the world where eyetalians appear on a more frequent basis to make a quick euro

Bespeakers I visit
I personally have used Luca Avitabile for shirts, Sartoria Vergallo (suit), Liverano/F.G, Cad and the dandy

Bespeakers I am also aware of
Solito (would be keen to use for a sportsjacket due to silhouette of soft shoulder but again hit and miss with final product however he does visit frequently so hes not going to do a hitandrun with your monies. Furthermore too many simon crampton CEO 10k a day clueless shillers blindly commissioning/worshipping)

Dalcuore (Seems like factory pumped out suit as demand is inevitably high with igent, not too much of a fan of his silhouette which appears more open/shoulders extended)

Caliendo (Heard and seen good things but value for money not so much)

Cerrato - Heard good things/want to try eventually but shillers demand has raised his prices it seems for Londra market

Formosa (seems straight up shiller). Pomella napoli (seems straight shill again)- I have seen this appear out of nothing on IG, and it appears they are trying to compete with ambrosi as they realise idiots are willing to pay 1k euro plus for bespoken trousers

Have also had initial fitting with Abbarchi (shirts) but he returns to the UK twice a year. Even if prices are good, a bespoke shirt needs multiple fittings and I don't have years to wait. So don't rate his service highly at all

Also would be good to catchup with any other resident UK anti-shill artists out there in person in the aim of uncovering the real best gems for tailoringz
 
Last edited:
xd_o_167672.jpg
 
BespeakUK said:
Objective: Discuss and expose travelling eyetalians we have used and resident shillers
With the proliferation of resident partime igent shillers and fulltime shillers, the UK appears to be the shilling capital of the world where eyetalians appear on a more frequent basis to make a quick euro

Bespeakers I visit
I personally have used Luca Avitabile for shirts, Sartoria Vergallo (suit), Ex Liverano tailor (mystery tailor as I do not want to disclose such private information at the moment to peasants)

Bespeakers I am also aware of
Solito (would be keen to use for a sportsjacket due to silhouette of soft shoulder but again hit and miss with final product however he does visit frequently so hes not going to do a hitandrun with your monies. Furthermore too many simon crampton CEO 10k a day clueless shillers blindly commissioning/worshipping)

Dalcuore (Seems like factory pumped out suit as demand is inevitably high with igent, not too much of a fan of his silhouette which appears more open/shoulders extended)

Caliendo (Heard and seen good things but value for money not so much)

Formosa (seems straight up shiller)

Have also had initial fitting with Abbarchi (shirts) but he returns to the UK twice a year. Even if prices are good, a bespoke shirt needs multiple fittings and I don't have years to wait. So don't rate his service highly at all
Click to expand...

of the ones you used whose work do you like?

have you used English tailors? which ones? if not, why not?
 
FriendCustomer said:
francesco guida?
Click to expand...

well played. He is top top qualitee. No sarcasm now though. Ive had the pleasure of being fitted by him himself instead of the faggotry you witness with other tailors where a saleman/fitter will do it for you.

Instantly you could tell by his actions/eye that he had years/knowledge/understanding.
 
FriendCustomer said:
of the ones you used whose work do you like?

have you used English tailors? which ones? if not, why not?
Click to expand...

Uk tailoring is not my thing . I am of youth age and unless you want to look like a rectangular toad I want to steer clear of UK tailors/saville row. IMO eyetailians simply do it better. Again it depends on the look you are going for.

I've tried CAd and the dandy which I had a simple overcoat made completely bespoke was around £1.2k. So decent value
Even softer uk tailors house style is still considerably structure e.g. hitchcocks. Also the ludicrous prices they charge makes some of eyetalians travelling tailors seems like alibaba
 
Had to be the teacher. Gaining an audience, but he could top out at capacity at some point. Not liking the things I have seen him do in CPH. But yes, other jobs look good.
 
sirloin said:
Had to be the teacher. Gaining an audience, but he could top out at capacity at some point. Not liking the things I have seen him do in CPH. But yes, other jobs look good.
Click to expand...
CPH = copenhagen??, yes im aware big bidness in CPH/AUS

Naturally cant expect these sartorias to stay small. But production on the level of Solito/Dalcuore is too much for me as it seems although house cut is nice, quality is compromised on such a level of mazz productions for bespoken suiting

You used him personally? or judging from igents peacocking on the ig? What did you not like/approve of may I ask? I fear he soons sell his soul to the mass shillers. It will be apocalypse/ r.i.p any new customers getting charged a car for a suit prices
 
Only judging from pictures seen on Torstens blog(s) and IG. The cut looks off to me in those. Not sure it is that big a market in CPH though. But good for him, if he can make some money.
Other things I have seen, where ppl have travelled to him, look nice. I'm sure he does good work, but a hype is starting to show yes. Dirnelli asked about him on IG the other day iirc.
 
sirloin said:
Only judging from pictures seen on Torstens blog(s) and IG. The cut looks off to me in those. Not sure it is that big a market in CPH though. But good for him, if he can make some money.
Other things I have seen, where ppl have travelled to him, look nice. I'm sure he does good work, but a hype is starting to show yes. Dirnelli asked about him on IG the other day iirc.
Click to expand...
https://www.instagram.com/p/BTLoerRFyBI/?taken-by=dirnelli

https://www.instagram.com/p/BTLflq8FMuI/?taken-by=dirnelli - suit/outfit on left 9.5/10, suit/styling by self proclaimed parisian igent litearlly 1.5/10. Could do better going to TM Lewin myself

lmao yeah dirnelli gonna bastardise his reputation. I mean this guy shills this commission from sartoria soda (aka setup by a jobless eyetalian claiming he is the virgin son of tailors and gentle mens). The tailor is wearing trousers which are actually worse then spray on skinny jeans from ASOS RTW. Then you got this 40 year old who despite commissioning/shilling 10s-100s of suits over his lifetime, approves of this tailors cut/fit on him. I mean you can't change your drooping body shape but hes butchered his inspiration for the suit. lold hard
 
BespeakUK said:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BTLoerRFyBI/?taken-by=dirnelli

https://www.instagram.com/p/BTLflq8FMuI/?taken-by=dirnelli - suit/outfit on left 9.5/10, suit/styling by self proclaimed parisian igent litearlly 1.5/10. Could do better going to TM Lewin myself

lmao yeah dirnelli gonna bastardise his reputation. I mean this guy shills this commission from sartoria soda (aka setup by a jobless eyetalian claiming he is the virgin son of tailors and gentle mens). The tailor is wearing trousers which are actually worse then spray on skinny jeans from ASOS RTW. Then you got this 40 year old who despite commissioning/shilling 10s-100s of suits over his lifetime, approves of this tailors cut/fit on him. I mean you can't change your drooping body shape but hes butchered his inspiration for the suit. lold hard
Click to expand...

Facts are unimportant. You post your shit on social media: IG, Tumblr blog etc. No one says anything negatively. No opportunity to discuss.

Put in key hashtags so the ignorant menswear voyeurs will follow the bait. They will Pin it. It is not about learning, it is about regurgitating pictures across the interwebz.

Get you shills and style-influencer agents to like the post; get them to make comments like "sexy" "very nice" etc.

Instant igent star.
 
BespeakUK said:
Uk tailoring is not my thing . I am of youth age and unless you want to look like a rectangular toad I want to steer clear of UK tailors/saville row. IMO eyetailians simply do it better. Again it depends on the look you are going for.

I've tried CAd and the dandy which I had a simple overcoat made completely bespoke was around £1.2k. So decent value
Even softer uk tailors house style is still considerably structure e.g. hitchcocks. Also the ludicrous prices they charge makes some of eyetalians travelling tailors seems like alibaba
Click to expand...

agree about the Brit price. i do like the Brit style, looking like a toad can be very sexy. But Good Brit tailoring is hardly rectangular. I find that it often has much more shape than Italian tailoring. But yes this may mean things currently out of fashion like swelled chests, heavier/stiffer canvassing, drape and ease built into coat, longer coats, flared skirts, etc. i like the italian style too. I agree it's A different style. To my eye it often seems much more skimpy. In both cases I guess it's really a question of getting it done right.
 
BespeakUK said:
well played. He is top top qualitee. No sarcasm now though. Ive had the pleasure of being fitted by him himself instead of the faggotry you witness with other tailors where a saleman/fitter will do it for you.

Instantly you could tell by his actions/eye that he had years/knowledge/understanding.
Click to expand...

How much does he charge you? He wanted €2500 at first. When I said lol no, he went down to €2000 instantly.
 
FriendCustomer said:
agree about the Brit price. i do like the Brit style, looking like a toad can be very sexy. But Good Brit tailoring is hardly rectangular. I find that it often has much more shape than Italian tailoring. But yes this may mean things currently out of fashion like swelled chests, heavier/stiffer canvassing, drape and ease built into coat, longer coats, flared skirts, etc. i like the italian style too. I agree it's A different style. To my eye it often seems much more skimpy. In both cases I guess it's really a question of getting it done right.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately it's only for dictators and doghouse doghouse
 
FriendCustomer said:
But Good Brit tailoring is hardly rectangular. I find that it often has much more shape than Italian tailoring.
Click to expand...

Shape is what defines the British suit. I remember the first appointment I had with a British tailor, and they asked how much shape I wanted, because if none, I should buy off the peg or Italian.

Obviously there is a range of shape in the British style, from the tunics of Hunstman to A&S, but it is almost always more shaped than any other style. Italian really breaks down along soft shoulder or not, very few Italians I have seen build a lot of shaping into their suits.
 
doghouse said:
Shape is what defines the British suit. I remember the first appointment I had with a British tailor, and they asked how much shape I wanted, because if none, I should buy off the peg or Italian.

Obviously there is a range of shape in the British style, from the tunics of Hunstman to A&S, but it is almost always more shaped than any other style. Italian really breaks down along soft shoulder or not, very few Italians I have seen build a lot of shaping into their suits.
Click to expand...

Correctamundo, what turns some people off British tailoring, is that it can have too much shape, not too little. Some find it effeminate.
 
Monkeyface said:
How much does he charge you? He wanted €2500 at first. When I said lol no, he went down to €2000 instantly.
Click to expand...
lol yeah from others it seems he changes his prices a bit which is not that professional but at least its not to levels of 3/4k a suit however those tailors do have more of a reputation in the market

Was 2k euros for a suit e.g. jacket + trousers?
I'm on something similar tbh

Did you go ahead with it?
Also whats your thoughts on good pricing for polo coats(overcoat) ?
 
Last edited:
BespeakUK said:
lol yeah from others it seems he changes his prices a bit which is not that professional but at least its not to levels of 3/4k a suit however those tailors do have more of a reputation in the market

Was 2k euros for a suit e.g. jacket + trousers?
I'm on something similar tbh

Did you go ahead with it?
Also whats your thoughts on good pricing for polo coats(overcoat) ?
Click to expand...

Suit. No, didn't go ahead, didn't feel very trustworthy. Glad I didn't, because I probably would've gotten a grey flannel suit, which would've been useless by now. I've never looked at having an overcoat made, so have no idea.
 
BespeakUK said:
Have also had initial fitting with Abbarchi (shirts) but he returns to the UK twice a year. Even if prices are good, a bespoke shirt needs multiple fittings and I don't have years to wait. So don't rate his service highly at all
Click to expand...

sure abbarci offers bespoke. isnt he running an mtm operation?
 
Shouldn't the title of this thread be "Traveling Italian Tailors in the UK" or something?
 
BespeakUK said:
well played. He is top top qualitee. No sarcasm now though. Ive had the pleasure of being fitted by him himself instead of the faggotry you witness with other tailors where a saleman/fitter will do it for you.

Instantly you could tell by his actions/eye that he had years/knowledge/understanding.
Click to expand...

Some convincing stuff at Guida but also dubious ones. Moreover I'm always reluctant when I see a tailor who doesn't know to cut his own suits (of course that's not a golden rule). Lapel break + stressing lines under the arm means bad chest's cut (+ light collo americano). Not the only example. The work he does for his customers is better. That's the important.

2-2-francesco-guida.webp
 
Jupiter said:
Lapel break + stressing lines under the arm means bad chest's cut (+ light collo americano).
Click to expand...

The problem is not the chest.

Jupiter said:
Moreover I'm always reluctant when I see a tailor who doesn't know to cut his own suits (of course that's not a golden rule).
Click to expand...
Tailors don't have easy figures, due to the work (we tend to be head forward/ stooping) and it's quite hard to fit oneself.
Not a problem in firms with more than one cutter, so most Italian sartorias seem to be "one master tailor" shows.
 
Scherensammler said:
Of course. But that wasn't the question!
Click to expand...

The point is, those faults may not have been there when he initially made the coat, they aren't a function of bad tailoring but of gluttony. Therefore, it is not a good base from which to critique his tailoring ability.
 
formby said:
The point is, those faults may not have been there when he initially made the coat, they aren't a function of bad tailoring but of gluttony. Therefore, it is not a good base from which to critique his tailoring ability.
Click to expand...

That might be true, but wearing this un-coat shows that he doesn't care. Or worse, that he can't do better.
The fact that he seemingly gets away with it shows how little the admirers know about good fit.
He does wear a lot of old suits.



 
The rent on the Row is according to my source, upwards of GBP 100,000 a month. That seems an excessive amount to me, but that would explain the cost of bespoke on the Row and elsewhere in London.
 
Lord Buckley said:
The rent on the Row is according to my source, upwards of GBP 100,000 a month. That seems an excessive amount to me, but that would explain the cost of bespoke on the Row and elsewhere in London.
Click to expand...


I think it's around £100/sqft. So depends on size obviously, but not cheap.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)
Back
Top Bottom