Unbiased Feedback: The DressedWell Reviews Thread

Jupiter

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Mohair fibres are longer, thicker and straighter than wool fibres. A high mohair content in a cloth usually means more sheen on the surface and a bit more stiffness (wrinkles easier), which you probably want to avoid in a business suit.
H&S Classic Mohair (85% wool/15% kid mohair as mentioned by Truth) reaches the good balance. More mohair means a too shiny effect. Very resilient fabric and excellent capacity to maintain its shape but, indeed, when the crease is marked it stays.
 

Journeyman

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Anyone has a suggestion for a pair of chinos/cotton trousers at around 100 euros with a high rise (atleast 10 inches), relatively straight/ non skinny leg?
I don't know whether Uniqlo has the same models in Europe, but I recently purchased a couple of pairs of Uniqlo's "vintage" chinos and they are great. Middle-weight cloth that's a decent weight, instead of the tissue-thin cotton used in many chino pants nowadays, high-rise waist (comes up to just under my navel), and legs of decent width.

Unfortunately, they only have them in four colours at present - navy, olive, beige and light brown. Curiously, they also have two different types mixed together in their stores - pre-distressed pairs with a bit of wear that come unhemmed but are quite short (I suppose so the ends of the trousers legs will wear and fray), and pairs without any wear that come hemmed in longer lengths. I bought the latter type, and took advantage of Uniqlo's free shortening service.

http://www.uniqlo.com/au/store/men-vintage-regular-fit-chino-flat-front-pants-1826660013.html
 

fxh

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mmh - 10" - they call it rising, but I'm assuming its front rise - for a size 34 isn't all that high rise in my oh so humble opinion. I hereby officially designate them medium rise.
 

Journeyman

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mmh - 10" - they call it rising, but I'm assuming its front rise - for a size 34 isn't all that high rise in my oh so humble opinion. I hereby officially designate them medium rise.
I haven't measured the rise on mine - I just know that the waistband comes up to my navel.

and whilst I'm at it - how can they be vintage if they are new?
Vintage-style (ie not skinny and low-rise), perhaps?
 

Jupiter

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Has anybody tried the online shirtmaker Apposta:

https://www.apposta.com/sp/en/home.3sp

Í'm in the market for a blue and yellow Prince of Wales shirt and the price is right for this Thomas Mason 100 shirt:

View attachment 30162
Never heard of this italian MTM offer. I'm currently trying Belisario Camicie which was recommended by CesareRomiti CesareRomiti . Shitty website but deep online process (lot of handwork options). 150 euros per shirt (shipping included, handwork excluded). Hope the result will be good.

http://www.belisariocamicie.it/it/camicie/build
 

Jupiter

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I know a GREAT naples shirtmaker who is willing to travel to paris as soon as someone organises the local customer base
My dear CesareRomiti CesareRomiti

Please give me the info about this shirtmaker in PM and I'll give it to Adrian Dearnell. I have already a job, two daughters and no time to organize a customer base. Nevertheless I want to acquire beautiful neapolitan shirts.

Did your SF doppelganger ever order something to BelisarioCamicie? He seemed interested few years ago.

Signed: SimpleCustomer
 

CesareRomiti

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My dear CesareRomiti CesareRomiti

Please give me the info about this shirtmaker in PM and I'll give it to Adrian Dearnell. I have already a job, two daughters and no time to organize a customer base. Nevertheless I want to acquire beautiful neapolitan shirts.

Did your SF doppelganger ever order something to BelisarioCamicie? He seemed interested few years ago.

Signed: SimpleCustomer
He ordered some sale shirts
Cheap and ok, still its better tomhave a stable naples supply chain
 

aristoi bcn

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Tissue is super lightweight cotton and linen blend, hence the transparency. It'll be used in summer weddings, mainly.

You can even spot my nipples. Looking forward to your photomontages.

Front.jpg

Back.jpg


Side.jpg
 

Lumpen

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Tissue is super lightweight cotton and linen blend, hence the transparency. It'll be used in summer weddings, mainly.

You can even spot my nipples. Looking forward to your photomontages.

View attachment 30170
View attachment 30171

View attachment 30172

The pattern yet needs some tweaking but is way better than the usual suspects.

Front is ok

Back is not.

Sleeves got strange bags of fabric on the upper part and too much
fabric on the lower part around the cuff.



How many tries did you?
 

aristoi bcn

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The pattern yet needs some tweaking but is way better than the usual suspects.

Front is ok

Back is not.

Sleeves got strange bags of fabric on the upper part and too much
fabric on the lower part around the cuff.



How many tries did you?
One fitting.

When tucked, the shirt looks much cleaner on the lower back.

Regarding the upper part of the sleeves, you may be right.

The excess of fabric around the cuff is something I requested specifically, so the cuff doesn't go up when bending the arms.

Thanks for the feedback.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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One fitting.

When tucked, the shirt looks much cleaner on the lower back.

Regarding the upper part of the sleeves, you may be right.

The excess of fabric around the cuff is something I requested specifically, so the cuff doesn't go up when bending the arms.

Thanks for the feedback.
I don't think you need anymore than one fitting and a wash for a shirt. There's some chaps here in The Hague who do a couple of fittings and have you coming back after several washes before they go live with additional shirts. Odd thing is, all the shirts they make have a very signature open collar from the last button up to me. Too wide and not very distinctive from there up. They also make you pay up front, which I consider somewhat vulgar.

My chap happened to have the Thomas Mason POW with yellow stripe in and so I've had him make the shirt I wanted in this cloth. The Thomas Mason's 100's are pretty good shirtings for most conditions except full on summer and tropical heat. I'll report back when the shirt is ready.
 

Dropbear

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So the question came up in the sales thread and I thought I’d use the opportunity to bump another of my favorite threads in this forum. I don’t have any pics on me, but if there is interest I suppose I could add them in later.


Spier and Mackay (S&M) is a Canuck-based brand with two bricks and mortar shops somewhere in the sub-arctic (aka Canada). However, about 70% of their business comes from internet sales. They have a Made-to-Measure program for suits and shirts, though I suspect this is still very small. They source some fairly nice fabrics, then send to Chinese sweatshops for production. Their customer service people appear overworked and slow to respond at times – but once contact is made they provide excellent service and seem the right any mistakes quickly and at their expense.


They are very active on SF taking feedback and suggestions – I will take some credit for pushing them to do corduroy sportscoats this coming Fall-Winter. This is, of course, a double-edged sword – SF, after-all! They released the recent mini fresco trousers with side adjustors only after the howling cries of their SF followers. I’m pretty sure this won’t go down so well with the rest of their customer base. The SF followers are very active and tend to jump on new releases quickly – popular sizes disappear quickly. Conversely, there are usually some great deals to be had a few months after release date if you can find your size still in stock.


Sportscoats: come in a Slim and Contemporary size. I’m told that these are fairly close to Suit Supply fits. In addition, they are now onto the third refinement of their ‘Neapolitan cut’, which has a very nice three roll two. Almost all are unlined and unpadded, with patch pockets. The armholes are high and there is a fairly generous and proportionate lapel. I feel that they need a little more length and the button stance could be lowered, but it is definitely in-line with a lot of contemporary and popular designs. I currently have a moleskin, Moon tweed , Moon tweed gun check SC and a Bottoli linin – with the cord to follow.


Dress shirts: Here they are largely competing with the likes of Tyrwitte. The quality of the fabric is pretty meh. The button downs do have a nice roll to them. I have a metric crap-tonne of their brushed oxford shirts I bought when they were deeply discounted at the end of last year. They were a bit stiff and scratchy at first, but have softened nicely. Right now I’m hoping some of the linin pop-overs I have will equally soften with wear. They are now offering a Contemporary, Slim and Extra-Slim fit. The latter is new and still being rolled-out. Best of all – new production shirts will have sleeve length options going forward. I just couldn’t bring myself to paying the tailor $16 to shorten the sleeves of shirts I only paid $28 for!


The trousers come in Contemp and Slim fits. Personally, the slim is a little too slim in the thigh for my liking and the rise a smidge too short. The contemp is a better rise, but a little too much room in thigh and down to ankle. The moleskins are fairly lightweight and have a much higher pile (think velveteen) than the more rugged moleskins of RM Williams. The best deal here are the flannels – which are amazing value at the end of winter. The cotton chinos are in the same cut and seem popular.


Ties: I threw a couple of deeply discounted repp stripe ties into my basket to make-up the minimum $99 free shipping during the post-Christmas sales. At around $20 these were the sleeper of the season, I believe. Really nice.

I can’t speak to their suits, but there are plenty of people blogging and writing about them. Their winter Merino woolens look ok and usually end-up at a great price – though I haven’t ordered any and have no first-hand experience with them. The polo shirts also seem popular. The button-down collar polo seems kinda weird, but maybe that’s just me. The fit seems a little loose and the sleeves long – looks a little like a Kent Wang. Additionally, I’ve read a few complaints about warm-water shrinkage. They had some nice looking overcoats, duffle-coats and pea-coats last winter. They are working on a black and white herringbone tweed overcoat for this coming Winter.

As I’ve mentioned, they will have a couple of corduroy sportscoats and some trousers out soon. They are also developing shoes and sunglasses.
 
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