in November we had a cold snap and all my down mid layer type jackets are at least two sizes too big this winter.
Kluane Mountaineering is a Canadian world-leading custom down sleeping bag and jacket maker in Edmonchuk (Edmonton) that nobody has ever heard of. Huge in Japan by themselves plus they do collaborations with Japanese makers as well as other SWD brands like Monitaly. Made by one woman, Betty. I had her do an old school knit collar western yoke down vest for me a few years ago in 60/40 cloth.
It was ready to ship in 6 weeks as per usual. Picked it up at the post office today.
made to measure version of their down inner jacket. Modified chest, waist, front/back hem, and arm measurements. Spec'd a stand up full zip collar instead of the stock round one that leaves the neck exposed. Shirt tail hem instead of straight hem. front hem to just below the belt line with 2 inches longer on the ass end. down windflap behind zipper. bigger internal chest pocket with flap. baffled instead of stitch through construction to minimize down migration and cold spots. elastic wrist instead of velcro which work well over knit glove/mitt cuffs or under a gauntlet. down stuffed lovingly by hand.
1.4 oz/sq yd (47 gsm) coyote brown nylon outer (minimal sheen) with 1.1 oz/sq yd (37 gsm) nylon sage green lining with a bit more sheen but it's rarely seen. a thin and light enough outer to support maximum down loft but not ultralight and fragile. I dislike Moncler-style plastic shiny.
spec'd 8 ounces (227g) of 850+ Canadian Hutterite, humane, traceable down. 100% down, no feathers. should be good to -20C on its own and with layering it will work in much colder temps. this current down is closer to 900 fill power with super loft so it's warmer than most of the high end brand usual suspects like Arc’teryx, TNF, and Patagucci with lower down fill power, lower down weight fills, built somewhere in the world but not here, at a far higher price.
should be good to -20C on its own and with layering it will work in much colder temps.
all for $417 CDN (taxes in) = $310 USD = 285 EU = $470 AUD
Sorry about my awkward posture; I don't tilt that much IRL. I don't have a large enough mirror so I propped the phone on a shelf and was sliding back into place after snapping the pic with delay.
it's a puffer but minimal Michelin IMHO. Horses for courses. YMMV.