so this is what we're comparing to, correct? In which ways is it better?
Lots of ways, and it makes for a completely different shoe experience. A proper handmade shoe made without compromise will mold to the foot much better in my experience than a factory shoe, and it will look much nicer too. Lets get into more basic detail as to why.
1 - an artisanal construction will utilise different sewing methods than a machine construction (sole stitching), and the difference is a more flexible sole. The hand stitched sole is also finer and a higher spi and it looks artisanal, where-as a machine stitched sole is boring because it is done by machine.
2 - an artisanal construction will utilise different inseaming methods than machine inseaming, and the difference is a more flexible sole that molds to the foot better than a machine construction where compromises are made.
3 - Edward Green uses synthetic toe puffs and heel counters compared to Lattanzi who takes the time to make leather ones. Vass also uses synthetic puffs etc. I loathe that because synthetics have limited to no give and take like leather does,so it limits how a shoe molds to your foot.
=> points 1, 2 & 3 make for a completely different shoe wearing experience. I wore my Edward Green captoe the other day, but it is like wearing a box on your feet, ie, the molding to the foot is limited because it cuts lots of corners in the construction and materials used to make the shoe. A Lattanzi in comparison is a pure delight and worlds apart from a factory shoe, and it takes things to the limit with no compromises. E.G does an amazing job given it's compromises, but it is what it is. Fans and BIG daddies swear a Lattanzi is the most comfortable shoe they have ever worn, and in my experience it is, and this is one of the reasons why l don't want to wear anything else,+ the artisanal beauty is something unsurpassed imo.
Then there are the lasts, leathers and other things. The E.G 202 last is bleedin' awful in smaller sizes....it is flat on the inside like a banana last, looks inelegant and fat and round in smaller sizes, has a high toe box and doesn't look too nice on people's feet. The E.G 82 last is o.k, but not amazing. Lattanzi's E.G styled lasts make the foot look stunning.
The leathers are also nicer with Lattanzi, and they patina much better. The leathers Lattanzi often uses have a natural beauty. I have worn my new Lattanzi only for a few hours, yet the color variations and patina is already starting to develop,and it already looks beautiful.
belinmad
= how is it better? There are so many things that could be talked about, some of which l touched upon above. It is also how Lattanzi builds the shoe....a bespoke maker told me Lattanzi also uses different insole leather (softer leather, yet tough) that makes for a more comfortable shoe that breaks in fast. Lattanzi is a master of everything imo, and no-one can do what he does - there are so many factors that go into shoe making, and he seems to have perfected them all. When he leaves this world a great master will have left us, and there may not be another one to ever come again. Yes we have great shoemakers, but can they do what Lattanzi does?...imo no. Are they better at some things?...yes....but can they do all the things Lattanzi does?....no imo. It's about the comfort, the lasts, the vintage looking antiquing, and the natural look of a shoe to fit into all environments - can other shoemakers do that?....no imo,
often the shoes of the top makers look too slick and fancy and new money, but Lattanzi can do really subdued models that look absolutely stunning in real life in a way nobody else can IMO. Other top makers make boring looking shoes.
I've tried to explain some of my insights.