What Are You Wearing Today?

ballmouse

Well-Known Member
Messages
263
jacket_20210213.png


Trying on the latest jacket.
 

ballmouse

Well-Known Member
Messages
263
I prefer 3 buttons so it functions closer to a jacket where you can button up if it's a little chilly. Most of the time though I'll just button the middle so it looks like your typical 2 button.
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
5,490
It looks good on you.

I like the high button stance and the lapel shape on a good 3 button.
 

ballmouse

Well-Known Member
Messages
263
Not bad. Looks a touch snug in the waist but everything else looks good. You planning on wearing it buttoned most of the time?

The waist is something I need to ask the tailor. There's been a lot of variation there even though nothing should have changed.

I like to button my jacket for the most part. It feels better for me to not have that fabric floating around.
 

aristoi bcn

Spanish Rookie
Messages
429
Amazing after all these years, my second Henry Poole suit ever is still my favorite.

Also, Marinella ties are the Supreme.

View attachment 36272

My first and only A&S is also my favourite.

3 roll 2, db waistcoat and double pleated forward/inward trousers worn always with braces. Can work 12 hours on my desk without taking out the coat and be comfortable. It doesn't need to be neapolitan, it needs to be well cut. Side adjusted or belted trousers always slip down on me, no matter how tight.

EG 202 and Kiton rtw shirt, Drake's olive grenadine and pocket square.

20210215_153942.jpg
20210215_154055.jpg
20210215_154040.jpg


What should I order next? Medium to light grey sharkskin?

Harrison's Oyster, Smith's Botany or H.Lesser 13oz?
 

Pauly Chase

Hip Dairy Farmer
Supporter
Messages
6,270
IMG_20210309_100501__01.jpg

Over the weekend. Naked and Famous left twill denim jacket in midnight, so stiff that it can stand up by itself
 

robertito

Well-Known Member
Messages
977
My first and only A&S is also my favourite.

3 roll 2, db waistcoat and double pleated forward/inward trousers worn always with braces. Can work 12 hours on my desk without taking out the coat and be comfortable. It doesn't need to be neapolitan, it needs to be well cut. Side adjusted or belted trousers always slip down on me, no matter how tight.

EG 202 and Kiton rtw shirt, Drake's olive grenadine and pocket square.

View attachment 36293View attachment 36294View attachment 36295

What should I order next? Medium to light grey sharkskin?

Harrison's Oyster, Smith's Botany or H.Lesser 13oz?
Didn't see this one before. It is your best one so far and better than the Italian stuff
When did you have it made?
 

aristoi bcn

Spanish Rookie
Messages
429
Didn't see this one before. It is your best one so far and better than the Italian stuff
When did you have it made?

I bought it in ebay before summer. Almost unworn.

Fit is difficult to assess in photos. It fits very well with maybe a bit too much cloth around my lower back. It has none of the issues of some A&S works posted elsewhere. Shoulder and chest are so different to my neapolitan stuff that in my opinion it would even make sense to have the same cloth made out by a neapolitan tailor and a english drape one. Why not if you like the cloth? It feels different and it makes you feel different. The neapolitan stuff is relaxed and calls for a chill dinner out and the drape stuff is serious and businesslike. Depending on what I put on monday morning my day leans towards a different path.
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
5,490
It’s just cool enough outside to wear the new Johnson Leather jacket that arrived yesterday, while I go to the hardware store to get some stuff to repair a leaking pipe.

6CAC9576-0272-41E2-A447-B7203B3E7A09.jpeg
45F96850-9809-4CB4-B36A-9ECEE2B892D5.jpeg
 

Great White Snark

Well-Known Member
Messages
698
Fit looks very good. Maybe sleeves a little long. Sometimes they’re made that way for riding a motorbike. I still detest the top pocket but other than that a good looking jacket. If I was getting one I’d be torn between ordering some kind of butter soft lambskin or some tough as ... errr ... leather horsehide for the Harley. I have a perfecto which I think might be horsehide. Bought over thirty years ago and like a second skin.

You look like Peter Coyote!
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
5,490
I’d take goat over lamb skin, personally.

This one is 3.5oz CXL horsehide. I got the sleeves a little longer because my last one lost about a half inch in sleeve length as it broke in and developed heavy creases around the elbows.

Overall, I’m very happy with the way it came out. Any minor nitpicks are as much my fault as theirs - little things I should have picked-up on with the fit jacket that I now see on the final product.

Someone asked me today why my pocket was on the wrong side, hahahah. Funny they noticed that and not that it is vertical.

Next one arrives Tuesday. The fit on that will be just a tad slimmer but similar. That I’m one is a pigment dyed mid-weight Shinki horse hide. I think I made a mistake with a last minute decision to move the side adjusters from the bottom up to the waist, but not a big deal.

I had to look-up Peter Coyote. At least it’s a change from being Hans Gruber!
 

Great White Snark

Well-Known Member
Messages
698
Glad you’re happy with this.
What were your nit picks? Would be good info if any of us are getting into MTM leathers to look out for.
I have a vague thought about getting a B-3 / Irvin type but with global warming it would be a low return on investment with very few wears per year.
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
5,490
Glad you’re happy with this.
What were your nit picks? Would be good info if any of us are getting into MTM leathers to look out for.
I have a vague thought about getting a B-3 / Irvin type but with global warming it would be a low return on investment with very few wears per year.

Firstly, there are at most ten really great mtm leather jacket makers out there. They all specialise in slightly different styles. If I wanted a shearling jacket, I wouldn’t go to Himmel Brothers and if I wanted a thick riding jacket I wouldn’t go to Thedi, for example. Going to the right maker for what you are looking for is probably half the battle.

I really can’t say enough positive things about the way Greg Field approaches making a jacket for you. He is like a monomaniacal fiend, constantly asking for more measurements and more photos to make sure it’s all perfect. He is really nice about it all, but his dedication is just insane. And he is a funny bugger with a real Scot sense of humor.

Johnson Leathers made their name in the seventies making jackets for the California Highway Patrol and other police agencies. They still make good, basic sturdy jackets. They don’t have a website to speak-of, but they will handle an order over email if you aren’t in San Francisco. The sky is limit as far as design, but it’s on you to communicate it. They will usually cut a new pattern for your jacket - not just modify sleeve and body length of an existing pattern. The key is the heavy cloth fit jacket they send you. Once you ok that, the jacket takes about two weeks to make.
 

Rambo

Supporter of Possible Sexual Deviants
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
31,484
Firstly, there are at most ten really great mtm leather jacket makers out there. They all specialise in slightly different styles. If I wanted a shearling jacket, I wouldn’t go to Himmel Brothers and if I wanted a thick riding jacket I wouldn’t go to Thedi, for example. Going to the right maker for what you are looking for is probably half the battle.

I really can’t say enough positive things about the way Greg Field approaches making a jacket for you. He is like a monomaniacal fiend, constantly asking for more measurements and more photos to make sure it’s all perfect. He is really nice about it all, but his dedication is just insane. And he is a funny bugger with a real Scot sense of humor.

Johnson Leathers made their name in the seventies making jackets for the California Highway Patrol and other police agencies. They still make good, basic sturdy jackets. They don’t have a website to speak-of, but they will handle an order over email if you aren’t in San Francisco. The sky is limit as far as design, but it’s on you to communicate it. They will usually cut a new pattern for your jacket - not just modify sleeve and body length of an existing pattern. The key is the heavy cloth fit jacket they send you. Once you ok that, the jacket takes about two weeks to make.
We should make a running list of the makers and types of jackets
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
5,490
Just threw it on to test the fit (hence all zipped-up) and Greg Field fucking killed it! The man is an artist. Mine took four months all-up but the buzz is building quickly so his wait times are up to 7 months already.

1615843053159.jpeg

888CCB2C-BC38-4569-83E9-1D1E531B9849.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Great White Snark

Well-Known Member
Messages
698
Looks good unzipped.
Looks a bit too snug - short and tight zipped up. If that’s the look you were going for then you’re in luck but it looks like it could have done with a bit of ‘growing room’ built in. Maybe I’m biased as my perfecto is so solid it’s three dimensional and sorta sits away from the body a bit, like a suit of armor!
 

Rambo

Supporter of Possible Sexual Deviants
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
31,484
Just threw it on to test the fit (hence all zipped-up) and Greg Field fucking killed it! The man is an artist. Mine took four months all-up but the buzz is building quickly so his wait times are up to 7 months already.

View attachment 36535
View attachment 36536
is it tight zipped or just stiff?
Looks good unzipped.
Looks a bit too snug - short and tight zipped up. If that’s the look you were going for then you’re in luck but it looks like it could have done with a bit of ‘growing room’ built in. Maybe I’m biased as my perfecto is so solid it’s three dimensional and sorta sits away from the body a bit, like a suit of armor!
agreed
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
5,490
is it tight zipped or just stiff?

agreed

Doubt I’ll zip it much, but the fit zipped is perfect. Full range of motion, but just enough room for a t-shirt underneath. The Shinki leather has a gorgeous grain to it. It’s fairly soft and pliable for a medium weight.

The front length looks a little short in those pics, but I think that’s as much a factor of lower jeans.

A4ABC33C-CD04-4B5B-B47F-3C53A335F02A.jpeg
3790681A-742D-438C-B7B7-2C5BF66FC8B2.jpeg
6368409B-30AF-4733-959C-06C69FD367BF.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Great White Snark

Well-Known Member
Messages
698
Didn't notice the buckles. They look REALLY high. They should be right at the narrowest part of your waist. They’re probably pointless anyway unless they’re just there for decoration as 1. The jacket was tailor made so should have been shaped to fit you no matter where your actual waist is, and 2. It fits so closely that buckles anywhere on the waist aren’t likely to have much function.
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
5,490
The buckles are up at the waist, where you’d normally find adjusters on a traditional half- belt.

They might look a little better down by the opening (a la Lewis Leathers), but I like the function up higher. Not sure if I’d fuss with them often, but it’s nice to be able cinch it in just a little . If I was doing it all over I probably wouldn’t add them.
 

Rambo

Supporter of Possible Sexual Deviants
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
31,484
The buckles are up at the waist, where you’d normally find adjusters on a traditional half- belt.

They might look a little better down by the opening (a la Lewis Leathers), but I like the function up higher. Not sure if I’d fuss with them often, but it’s nice to be able cinch it in just a little . If I was doing it all over I probably wouldn’t add them.
out of curiosity any other things you'd change?

and out of the two, which one do you like more?
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
5,490
out of curiosity any other things you'd change?

and out of the two, which one do you like more?

I can’t find anything else I’d change on this. I’m still marvelling at stictching - the guy is a fucking laser-eyed robot. The grain on the Shinki hide is amazing, though the CXL will start to pop as well when it breaks in.

I like them both, thankfully. The Johnson is thick and heavy like a riding jacket, while the Field is mid-weight and just beautiful. Like a Land Rover and a Ferrari.
 

Rambo

Supporter of Possible Sexual Deviants
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
31,484
I can’t find anything else I’d change on this. I’m still marvelling at stictching - the guy is a fucking laser-eyed robot. The grain on the Shinki hide is amazing, though the CXL will start to pop as well when it breaks in.

I like them both, thankfully. The Johnson is thick and heavy like a riding jacket, while the Field is mid-weight and just beautiful. Like a Land Rover and a Ferrari.
oh i know you're happy. im just curious if you had to choose one or the other which one would you pick?
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
5,490
oh i know you're happy. im just curious if you had to choose one or the other which one would you pick?
Field = Big Johnny Lobb jacket for Big Leather Daddies.
Johnson = White’s boots for rugged adventurers living fast.

There’s no doubt the Field is a higher quality jacket all around, but they both have their place and purpose.

Anyway, I now have more than I need so I am done with custom jackets for a while. Maybe in a few years I’ll look into a buffalo suede, a half-belt with a mouton collar or something else very different to these two I have now.
 
Last edited:

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
5,490
I dig it. The strong waist band and overall cut is flattering to the body. With the suspenders it could become retro/vintage cosplay if you had a different shirt, tie, hat and jacket - but the simple shirt saves it.
 
Last edited:

Rambo

Supporter of Possible Sexual Deviants
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
31,484

camez7

Member
Messages
11
just gonna crosspost this:
shoulder's are not fixed yet
vintage windsor, marinella, tm lewin, bespoke trousers double pleated
pZIpMNXh.jpg

oMI5qavh.jpg
 
Top Bottom