Australian tailors, shirtmakers and shoemakers - the secret makers

[The Shooman]

The forums never seem to talk about the best makers in Australia (shirt makers, shoe makers and tailors), and they certainly don't talk about this man either, yet this Australian shirtmaker has made for numerous Prime Ministers and is considered the best of the best.

https://www.news.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/people/fleeing-lebanon-to-dressing-the-pm-the-rise-of-sydney-tailor-roger-touma/news-story/cd8040343adb6159de8947afb8b5810d

Tailored Shirts and Suits and Masks Sydney

Custom-made shirts are an essential part of any man's wardrobe. There is no better option for quality, expert craftsmanship, and personal attention than made-to-measure tailoring from StudioShirt.com.

www.studioshirts.com.au

Great shirtmakers find it hard to making a living on just making shirts alone. They often have to work long hours and make many large orders of rtw to stay afloat, and many are like the late Alex Kabbaz in that they make other clothing to make ends meet. My shirtmaker has now gotten into suits, and so has this maker Roger Touma.

 

[The Shooman]

Another unknown Australian tailor was Andrew Tolley based in Melbourne. He cut the suits and had them made by a famous tailor in Savile Row (forget the name at present). No-one on the forums ever mentioned him either.

Andrew Tolley bespoke (Melbourne).
Seemed liked a pretty decent tailor. He shut down due to lack of men wanting to pay the big bucks for good suits.

Photos taken from Andrew's facebook.

Tolley Savile Row | Melbourne VIC

Tolley Savile Row, South Yarra. 262 likes. Tolley is now closed.

www.facebook.com

Frank Marino bespoke
Frank was a tailor to the stars and was able to charge really big bucks due to his experience and talent. No-one on the forums ever mentioned him either. He retired in about 2013. This is the only picture l have below. He was a nice man, very humble. No-one ever talked about him on the forums either.

from here

https://www.heraldsun.com.au/leader/inner-east/toorak-tailor-frank-marino-puts-final-seam-on-his-career/news-story/1b89feabd30aa2f40019ea222005298b

The forums were always one trick ponies when it came to aussie talent. It was always Cutler blah blah blah, with hardly any guys actually owning the suits yet recommending Maimone, Carbone and others without knowing anything about them. Some of the best tailors were never talked about, especially when it came to shoemakers.

 

[The Shooman]

And then of course there is my tailor who shall go un-named. He used to dress Robert Doyle.

Robert Doyle in the middle

Robert in the middle

He also dresses a big wig CEO who's name l will not mention. Looks like one of my tailor's suits.

People might think Australia hasn't got tailoring talent, but they are wrong. Some of the tailors can probably match the best in the world.

One thing though....many Australian men are not prepared to pay the big bucks for delux bespoke, so some tailors have to compromise and put fusing in the suits because not many people will pay Savile Row prices for a full canvass construction.

 

[The Shooman]

Here is an Australian shoemaker who made shoos for the select few. Hardly anyone was allowed to know who he was.

My old maker: only the old timers knew who he was, + me. Hand stitched over 3,000 pairs in Italy and was considered the best shoemaker in the state. I was his only client. See, all the best makers were unknown to the public.
His sample pairs:

Look at that stunning loafer and how well designed and lasted it is. He took inspiration from Moreshci of course. He could do stunning hand sewn apron loafers, blake stitch by hand, and bologna by hand. He was the stitch master.

One of the bespoke pairs he made for me.

And of course there is Mr J H. Strictly a private maker that the public is not allowed to know about either, and one of the best in Australia. Only a handful of people know about him. His shoe repair work is legendary too.

No shoemakers working in the public eye can do near what these makers can do. All the secret shoemakers in the `private shoo world' are the best. I am likely the only man who knows all three

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

Here is an Australian shoemaker who made shoos for the select few. Hardly anyone was allowed to know who he was.

Wow. Amazing shoes. The quality just can't resist shouting loudly.

 

[QuandoDio]

This is going to be a very short thread.
No one considers Australia relevant in menswear of any sort. Other than flip-flops or budgie smugglers and I suppose R.M.Williams (though that might be Chinamade these days)

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

This is going to be a very short thread.
No one considers Australia relevant in menswear of any sort.

Well, perhaps this thread can change attitudes by increasing awareness.

 

[The Shooman]

This is going to be a very short thread.
No one considers Australia relevant in menswear of any sort. Other than flip-flops or budgie smugglers and I suppose R.M.Williams (though that might be Chinamade these days)

That is the type of attitude l can't stand, and why l made this thread. I think the Australian makers can match it with some of the best. When it comes to suit makers and shirt makers we do not need to travel abroad, we have everything here. Australia gets the short end of the stick, no-one takes us seriously in the clothing world because they don't know the talent we have. This thread may be short, but it has great content; it is like a gold mine of information. None of the forums contain these gems.


Andrew Tolley bespoke (he cuts the cloth and John Morgan at Savile Row made them).









Bijan bespoke (Sydney).
Many rave about him because he was a former cutter at Huntsman, but there are others just as good if not better.

 

[The Shooman]

Doesn't get better than this.

 

[The Shooman]

Zink and Sons have done some decent coats.

If This coat below has a savile row label on it people would probably praise it no end, but because it was made by an aussie tailor people won't even give it a second thought.



Not perfect, but still decent lookinmg suits.





Cutler and a small select group in Oz are able to get Lesser and Sons, but Zinc don't seem to be this elite group.

 

[The Shooman]

A note about the Australian shoe industry and John Karandonis (most famous aussie maker)

The struggling Australian footwear industry, which once employed more than 20,000 workers, all but disappeared when import tariffs were lifted in the 1980s. TAFE colleges closed their courses, factories bolted their gates. The machinery of shoemaking – all the deliciously named skivers, insolers and welters – was auctioned off, melted down or shipped to Asia.
Three Australian PMs wore Karandonis shoes
He arrived in Australia in 1960, and his brother eventually followed him. In the new country, Karandonis found a thriving shoemaking industry which, by the late 1960s, involved 21,183 workers, two-thirds of them women, in 212 factories and workshops.
"I thought there were not many shoemakers," he says. "They were machine operators. There was a lot of machinery, machines which I'd never seen. In Greece, everything was by hand.
"I thought it was about time to retire," he says, "and I had an offer from a Chinese company to go to China to make Karandonis shoes. We went with a state government partner, we had a good factory. I selected workers.
"The idea was that having cheap labour you could make even better shoes, because you can spend time to do all the little things. But the Chinese man had different ideas. He thought the shoes should last one to two years, then they had to throw them away and buy a new pair."The Chinese wanted to use synthetic insoles instead of leather. "It was a stupid thing to do," says Karandonis. He spent more than a year living in the city of Shantou in Guangdong province, but came home disillusioned in 1983, and started making shoes in Australia again, this time under the El Greco brand.
https://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/jo...e-lost-art-of-shoemaking-20170322-gv3lmq.html

 

[The Shooman]

Phoned one of the kings of the private Australian shoo world this arvo, and he told me about a new bespoke shoemaker called Melody Chai. She trained under Marcell Mrsan. While she is not as good as my ex-maker in the private shoo world who worked at Foster & Sons and Ugolini, she shows lots of promise. Sadly she hasn't shown much of her work of late, so l suspect the harsh aussie market is giving her a reality check. The aussie shoe market chews people up and spits them out, one after another. The old guard warns them, the young ones ignore the warnings and then become the casualties.

Here is some of her work. A bit rough and unrefined, but with practice things can change. I also hope she starts using better looking lasts instead of those big things they always use. Her closing looks very Allen Edmonds like. Her training is limited, but l hope she does well.

I will try to give Melody a visit and see what she's up to. She lives locally.

MELODY CHAI - shoemaker

Life on the other side: Melody Chia Makes Shoes — Gabberish

Melody Chia was in account service before burnout forced her to re-evaluate her life and her work. She decided to try shoe-making on for size, and hasn’t looked back.

www.gabberish.com

Melody Chia Shoes | Welted Shoes Australia

One year ago when the world had not gone crazy with Covid-19 yet, I paid a visit to Melody Chia‘s home workshop in Melbourne where she makes handwelted shoes. We settled on the design of the shoe over conversation and tea: kangaroo leather, the size of the shoe, no brogue-ing on the toe cap...

www.weltedshoes.com.au

https://www.instagram.com/p/B4OpGZCpagh/?hl=en​

 

[Dropbear]

Zink and Sons have done some decent coats.

If This coat below has a savile row label on it people would probably praise it no end, but because it was made by an aussie tailor people won't even give it a second thought.

short sleeve suit?

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

short sleeve suit?

Yes, definitely a wee bit short. I wouldn't be too happy with the cutting of those patch pockets either. I can remember getting patch pocket MTM suits made by UK high street tailor Montague Burton in the 60s, and even as a 16 year-old young Mod insisting that the pockets be shaped properly as the tailoring assistant whirled his tape measure.

 

[The Shooman]

I found a group for shoe nerds in Australia,

Log into Facebook

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

www.facebook.com

They even had Gaziano & Girling trunk shows that l had never heard about in Oz. G&G haven't been back in 3 years.

Gaziano & Girling Trunk Show 2 | Welted Shoes Australia

Following the successful reception of Gaziano & Girling’s previous trunk show in Sydney and Melbourne, Founding Partner Masaichi Hasegawa is coming again in April! Gaziano & Girling are a top tier welted shoe company founded by Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling. They have a no compromises approach...

www.weltedshoes.com.au

I am not part of that group, I get the feeling that there would be too many junior shoomen and shoo nerds for my liking. Those guys would all bore me. *snark icon* Almost 3,000 members though, l bet they are full of `shoo inanities'.

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

Give it a go, Shooey. Can't do any harm and you can educate.

 

[The Shooman]

Maybe l could be the big daddy and show `em what's what. It is interesting how numerous well known shoomen have adopted my special words to, eg "notched heel" and "big daddy". Those words were never mentioned once, but numerous shoe people now use them. Maybe they read my posts . Maybe it's time l took these aussie shoomen to the next level and become a father figure to them all.

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

Dfinite

Maybe l could be the big daddy and show `em what's what. It is interesting how numerous well known shoomen have adopted my special words to, eg "notched heel" and "big daddy". Those words were never mentioned once, but numerous shoe people now use them. Maybe they read my posts . Maybe it's time l took these aussie shoomen to the next level and become a father figure to them all.

Definitely. You need to. If you don't, they'll be making shoos out of dingo and roo hide

 

[Dropbear]

Dfinite

Definitely. You need to. If you don't, they'll be making shoos out of dingo and roo hide

The Pros and Cons of Kangaroo Leather | Stridewise

Kangaroo leather is seldom mentioned among the echelons of steer, buffalo, kudu, and other bovine stalwarts, but kangaroo has a LOT of upsides.

stridewise.com

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

The Pros and Cons of Kangaroo Leather | Stridewise

Kangaroo leather is seldom mentioned among the echelons of steer, buffalo, kudu, and other bovine stalwarts, but kangaroo has a LOT of upsides.

stridewise.com

I know. It's too late.

 

[Dropbear]

I know. It's too late.View attachment 46782

I had a roo leather wallet for years that was suburb. It’s not really a hide I like for shoes, but if you are going to wear Skippy on your feet, you might as well go OG:

Tanbark Kangaroo Craftsman Boots | R.M.Williams Chelsea Boots | R.M.Williams® Australia

Add a touch of timeless and iconic and elevate your outfit with Tanbark Kangaroo Craftsman Boots. Enjoy free shipping on all orders over $150 Australia-wide.

www.rmwilliams.com.au

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

I had a roo leather wallet for years that was suburb. It’s not really a hide I like for shoes, but if you are going to wear Skippy on your feet, you might as well go OG:

Tanbark Kangaroo Craftsman Boots | R.M.Williams Chelsea Boots | R.M.Williams® Australia

Add a touch of timeless and iconic and elevate your outfit with Tanbark Kangaroo Craftsman Boots. Enjoy free shipping on all orders over $150 Australia-wide.

www.rmwilliams.com.au

Very interesting. I honestly had no idea roo leather was used. I'd be interested in hearing Shooey's views on this.

 

[Dropbear]

Very interesting. I honestly had no idea roo leather was used. I'd be interested in hearing Shooey's views on this.

It is extremely tough and yet thin. Ideal for gloves, whips, shoe laces, wallets, etc. The trouble is that it isn’t very attractive (imo) after some wear - it stains, gets really wrinkly and the natural blemishes on the hide start looking worse.

Roo leather boots were entering ADF service right about the time I was leaving, so I never got any - but the hatband of my slouch hat was roo.

Pair of Australian Army Boots Terra Model 1

www.awm.gov.au

 

[The Shooman]

I always wondered why some of Richie Benaud's coats looked so good.

John Cutler bespoke for Richie Benaud

Cutler says Benaud liked to be well dressed and loved clothes that fitted properly. "He was old school in his appreciation of good tailoring." Over the years Cutler made at least seven versions of the sports jacket that was to become Benaud's style trademark.

John Cutler himself is no stranger to celebrity. Among his clientele have been Australian prime ministers (McMahon, Hawke and Keating,) Elton John, Rod Stewart and Packer's father, Sir Frank.

The real story behind Richie Benaud’s famous cream jacket

What's the real story behind the late Richie Benaud's signature sports coat?

www.watoday.com.au

Richie Benaud: a style icon who was never beige

He may be best known for the beige jacket that became his trademark, but Richie Benaud's style was anything but.

www.watoday.com.au

 

[The Ernesto]

Dfinite

Definitely. You need to. If you don't, they'll be making shoos out of dingo and roo hide

My kangaroo hide shoes.

 

[The Shooman]

Interview with John Cutler. Wanted to be a tailor since he was a kid. A very modest man too.

Good story from 47:20 about the old man who ordered 75 three piece suits just to help out the tailor during the recession (2 million worth of suits in today's money).

 

[The Shooman]

Henry Bucks has certainly stepped it up with their top end sportscoats and suits from Stefano Ricci.

A $10,500 rtw sportscoat

A 12K suit

I remember about 18 years ago they used to sell Oxxford suits for 9K.

 

[fxh]

Interview with John Cutler. Wanted to be a tailor since he was a kid. A very modest man too.

Good story from 47:20 about the old man who ordered 75 three piece suits just to help out the tailor during the recession (2 million worth of suits in today's money).

I think you might be the first person ever to describe Butler as "modest"
I've seen him at a seminar in person - a bloviator is how I'd describe him.

 

[The Shooman]

I think you might be the first person ever to describe Butler as "modest"
I've seen him at a seminar in person - a bloviator is how I'd describe him.

I've had a good chat with him over the years and he tells me he isn't the greatest tailor and certainly not as good as his father was, but he tries his best. Sounds pretty modest to me. Also was going to cut me a deal on some shoes.

I am sure he'd be pompous when he needs to, and hang around the high society types when needed, and he certainly dresses the part to fit into those circles, but he is a regular old joe at heart, just a craftsman with a working class job. Just my opinion.

Can you tell me more about the bloviating please.

 

[The Shooman]

Eugenio Nicolini bespoke, but probably retired now. Look at those shoulders.

Nicholas Raftopoulos bespoke

 

[belinmad]

Nicholas Raftopoulos bespoke
View attachment 48095View attachment 48096

This one doesn't look particularly special, no?

 

[The Shooman]

^^^

Yep, looks a bit underwhelming. I was trying to give the tailor the benefit of the doubt and hope the bloke was standing crooked and making it look all messed up, but l think there are definitely issues with the coat. Trousers look good though.

I like the Eugenio Nicolini suit and coats at the top, they have presence.

 

[The Shooman]

Tempted to show the first fitting of my coat, but l am not so sure that l should. The tailoring looks great, but my body shape not so much these days. Picked up my trousers last week, and going for a second coat fitting next week. Excited. Nothing quite as exciting as picking up a big daddy coat that you've waited ages to get.

 

[theinvisiblehand]

Tempted to show the first fitting of my coat, but l am not so sure that l should. The tailoring looks great, but my body shape not so much these days. Picked up my trousers last week, and going for a second coat fitting next week. Excited. Nothing quite as exciting as picking up a big daddy coat that you've waited ages to get.

I posted photos of tailors fitting my potato. You can do it.

 

[The Shooman]

A famous old Melbourne laneway stuck in time, Crossley Street. Everything loves slowly there, my favourite place to visit.

Village down a lane

It's a rare place where hard city lines soften into a human face, marvels Dewi Cooke.

www.smh.com.au

fxh and I went there once, remember?

The ladies below can block the entire street because hardly anyone goes down there. Besides, it is a friendly street for those `in-the-know'.

 

[The Shooman]

Probably Melbourne's and Australia's most artistic bespoke tailor. No-one makes clothes more beautiful than this man. Sadly his collars do come off the neck.









Melbourne icon Hal Salter

 

[belinmad]

Probably Melbourne's and Australia's most artistic bespoke tailor. No-one makes clothes more beautiful than this man. Sadly his collars do come off the neck.









Melbourne icon Hal Salter

As previously established , you and I have very different definitions of “beautiful” and “artistic”

 

[Great White Snark]

As previously established , you and I have very different definitions of “beautiful” and “artistic”

What? You mean you don’t admire white tuxedo jackets with black facings?
Not even shitty brown tuxedos worn with black shirts?
Philistine!

 

[The Shooman]

One of Australia's great tailors Bijan. Recently retired. Knew l should have got a couple of his pieces a few years ago.

 

[The Shooman]

One of my city's celebrated bespoke tailors Charles Maimone. Makes a nice coat.