Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

Lord Buckley said:
Yes, racism is bad, very bad. I judge no one by their race, only their actions and character. The war we are fighting is a culture war.
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Your opinion was mine 15 years ago. I was young. Separating ethnos from demos (culture) is a mistake. At the end reality always strikes. See the Rotherham affair.
 
oof...

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one of these days he'll touch that elusive titty...

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"I have no idea why SC + jeans is a controversial thing on SF. I have never considered this problematic. What I happened to be wearing today btw:

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'I think you just proved my point.' All he needs is a br'er rabbit straw hat and a stick of wheatgrass in his mouth.
 
prince nez said:
"I have no idea why SC + jeans is a controversial thing on SF. I have never considered this problematic. What I happened to be wearing today btw:

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'I think you just proved my point.' All he needs is a br'er rabbit straw hat and a stick of wheatgrass in his mouth.
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image is a dead link
 
yes and dumpster king is shilling now, anyway. but what has this to do with pc and medtech? pc does their trees and mt received a gift from me. thats all. I hope mt is doing well, btw.

get your pants straight. tia.

FriendCustomer said:
fxh fxh is a liar? him and Jerry conspiring against you?

actually i was hoping to receive a free custom made 3 piece shoo tree from you . Medtech and Phillip Car told me you were the guy to get that from. How did that shitty custom shoo tree business ever workout for you? another failed venture in a life of failures i imagine. olololol
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whatever happened is in the coffee ground, but yes ordering online is tricky. does this help?

prince nez said:
Let me get this straight. So the shoes he ordered online from you didn't fit his feet (or rather, they did fit but he lied about it) and so he sent them back to you, at his expense?

Clearly he was in the wrong. Guys please lay off W walker no humble arthisan deserves such treatment.
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well, thats just your opinion. ymmv.

fwiw and from what I gathered. dumpster king created a blog entry about the shoes. of course they were not prestigious enough for shilling and/or within his "pear" group, but he knew that I hold fx' opinion in high regard due he supported me with a health issue(thyroid gland). unfortunately, not in this case. they created a lie around the shoos and thought I would bite the trap. not going to happen, sorry. they are back after a long journey around the world and the rest is history. so, who is unable to cope? hope you're happy now? wtf

ps: for always and ever gerry nelson aka dumpster king is just a lousy cheater, ymmv. ... he isn't aryan, is he?

prince nez said:
You seem unable to cope

nvm?

Celery
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have noticed this over the past few weeks...i typically think the stuff he wears is ok (if not a lil boring), but his allen edmonds never fit right.

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Pockets are awful, gorge is too high for my tastes, horrible shoulders...

I still don't get it, tailors in the '30s and '40s were pretty good even in small villages, now we get this crap from "trained professionals"?
 
may as well take the buttons off a SuitSupply DB and pose like this, then sew them back on

I joke but I'm also not sure that isn't exactly what I'm looking at already
 
WildBlue said:
Pockets are awful, gorge is too high for my tastes, horrible shoulders...

I still don't get it, tailors in the '30s and '40s were pretty good even in small villages, now we get this crap from "trained professionals"?
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I'm constantly amazed that the ones with milk bottle shoulders choose unpadded Neapolitan style shoulders.
 
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Scherensammler said:
I'm constantly amazed that the ones with milk bottle shoulders choose unpadded Neapolitan style shoulders.
Google search does not reveal a Sartoria Granata website let alone proper address on streets on Naples.
So the Granata brothers/ cousins could easily be re-sellers of cheap Neapolitan tailoring and belong into the fake tailors category. Only an e-mail address is suspicious.
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They claim to be making everything in house (tailoring is the brothers' area while Biagio's wife makes shirts), afaik Biagio used to work for Carfora or something along those lines, however it could very well be that you're right.

As far as unpadded shoulders, one need not look further than Crompton to understand to which extremes the "Neapolitan fad" can be taken. Never have I seen someone with such unflattering proportions choosing equally unflattering garments.
 
WildBlue said:
As far as unpadded shoulders, one need not look further than Crompton to understand to which extremes the "Neapolitan fad" can be taken. Never have I seen someone with such unflattering proportions choosing equally unflattering garments.
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The trouble is most (all?) of the #sartorial jocks on the web wear Neapolitan style (or their idea of Neapolitan - bear with me). To me, they're just grown men trying to look like teenagers wearing tailored clothes like they were street style.

We need jocks posing in a structured coat and some shoulder padding in a proper Savile Row cut. But then they couldn't do sprezzatura and all those silly hoodlum poses.
 
Scherensammler said:
I'm constantly amazed that the ones with milk bottle shoulders choose unpadded Neapolitan style shoulders.
Google search does not reveal a Sartoria Granata website let alone proper address on streets on Naples.
So the Granata brothers/ cousins could easily be re-sellers of cheap Neapolitan tailoring and belong into the fake tailors category. Only an e-mail address is suspicious.
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I feel I must take the defense of Granata because he is my tailor.

First thing: of course he represents a low-cost option. That's true but it doesn't mean he doesn't do a good job. He does. He is an excellent young tailor with already a certain experience (no comparison possible with Crapdano for example). I confess the things you see on Instagram aren't convincing but his work is (Capstone could have posted the pics of the linen suit which is indeed bad but it's just a first fitting). I never saw anything else than the two suits he made for me so I speak for myself only.

Secondly he is a very honest tailor. That's a very important thing in this market full of crook. He worked on a 30/30/30/10 payment schedule for the 1st suit to complete all the steps of a true bespoke (3 fittings for the following orders). He works relatively fast and delivers the product you ordered him. That's not the case of all SF napolitean stars. I think to Solito. Indeed his sartoria is totally home-made. He has no store nor a website (WTF ? Is it a mark of credibility?) and works with his brother and his concubine in an apartment in Afragola, a suburb of Naples. This lack of charges explain his low prices.

Thirdly his tailoring is of an excellent level. Very good shape of the collar. Extremely clean spalla camicia (I didn't want of his roped shoulder nor the common waterfall shoulder you see everywhere). Perfect measurement of the chest. Beautiful trousers as well. Inner finishing is average but not less good than Orazio or Dalcuore. When you see some Dalcuore outfit on Insta (3000 euros the suit) he has no reason to blush. I would give him two bad points: 1) he has a propensity to cut too tight to the waist but of course you can improve easily this sort of default, 2) he cut a little too short (the jacket) to my taste but that's a common feature of neapolitan tailors and can also be easily fixed.

Last thing: a bespoke garment won't transcend a body shape. It adapts to the body. So, indeed, it's absurd for sloping shoulder men to chose totally unpadded jackets. In the same manner a perfect jacket on an obese guy will look obese.

Last last thing: a diving photo can't give an accurate idea of the true outfit of a garment.

Conclusion: I agree with the opinion of the top top shiller Dirnelli by saying Biagio is an incredible value for money.

P.-S.: Personally I prefer him not to gain too many new clients. It'll keep his prices low.
 
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Jupiter said:
I feel I must take the defense of Granata because he is my tailor.

First thing: of course he represents a low-cost option. That's true but it doesn't mean he doesn't do a good job. He does. He is an excellent young tailor with already a certain experience (no comparison possible with Crapdano for example). I confess the things you see on Instagram aren't convincing but his work is (Capstone could have posted the pics of the linen suit which is indeed bad but it's just a first fitting). I never saw anything else than the two suits he made for me so I speak for myself only.

Secondly he is a very honest tailor. That's a very important thing in this market full of crook. He worked on a 30/30/30/10 payment schedule for the 1st suit to complete all the steps of a true bespoke (3 fittings for the following orders). He works relatively fast and delivers the product you ordered him. That's not the case of all SF napolitean stars. I think to Solito. Indeed his sartoria is totally home-made. He has no store nor a website (WTF ? Is it a mark of credibility?) and works with his brother and his concubine in an apartment in Afragola, a suburb of Naples. This lack of charges explain his low prices.

Thirdly his tailoring is of an excellent level. Very good shape of the collar. Extremely clean spalla camicia (I didn't want of his roped shoulder nor the common waterfall shoulder you see everywhere). Perfect measurement of the chest. Beautiful trousers as well. Inner finishing is average but not less good than Orazio or Dalcuore. When you see some Dalcuore outfit on Insta (3000 euros the suit) he has no reason to blush. I would give him two bad points: 1) he has a propensity to cut too tight to the waist but of course you can improve easily this sort of default, 2) he cut a little too short (the jacket) to my taste but that's a common feature of neapolitan tailors and can also be easily fixed.

Last thing: a bespoke garment won't transcend a body shape. It adapts to the body. So, indeed, it's absurd for sloping shoulder men to chose totally unpadded jackets. In the same manner a perfect jacket on an obese guy will look obese.

Last last thing: a diving photo can't give an accurate idea of the true outfit of a garment.

Conclusion: I agree with the opinion of the top top shiller Dirnelli by saying Biagio is an incredible value for money.

P.-S.: Personally I prefer him not to gain too many new clients. It'll keep his prices low.
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