Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

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2017-11-03 16.24.12.webp
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I am sorry to say Craptom's shirt looks much better, though still not perfect, specially for bespoke. I'm not good at diagnosing what causes lack of cleanliness overall on a shirt, but aristoi, those look a bit messy. You can't ask for perfection if they are RTW but I think you should be able to find something with a cleaner fit.
 
TheUntermensch said:
Lorenzo Cifonelli seems to turn a darker shade each time I browse t'Instaounce.
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He thinks he is actually an icon because the rich chinois and a rabs who pay stupid prices for shitty looking cifonelli. Lmao look at the narrow pencil dick lapel and shoulder mounds. Not sure if cosplay. The guy has the meatieset forehead with/without that beard
 
aristoi bcn said:
Teach me about the fit.

View attachment 25830 View attachment 25831 View attachment 25832
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You have to return those shits.

Awful overall looking, looks a 20 euros random size rtw

technical failures ( is all a big fail):

total off shoulder angle, see the diagonal wrinkles all around due to that.

Sleeves: totally twisted wrinkled, is a crime, totally out of pitch.

Did he measured your biceps width? If he did as he should have been done, he has just used a the first size 40 carton pattern he watched on his wall instead.

Bad back, plenty of room there, even should have have added darts to correct his
roomy taking of measures.

Also, the shirt has bad balance, this is a technical thing that only a few real masters know how to do, and this Merolla is a MERDOLLA, la grande merda!

See how the shirts jumps to the front on the low belly part.

Honestly this thing can´t be called Italian bespoke, is a grande truffa!

You can do the following:

Send pics to Merdolla and see how he reacts, if he is a pro he will say, return that rag, I need to polish my windows, if he is a poor one who lives out of a name ( as he looks he is, considering in Naples are tons of jokes about him, and now I know why) , he will say: Wait until you order next shirts and the fit will improve with those ( while my bank account also improves out of delivering crap and being unable to have ethics to correct my failures)

Folks, you should write a post on fake arthisans and scammers featuring Merdolla, la grande merda!
Did he ever did a test shirt or measured himself? If so, he deserves death penalty.

First thing Craptom wins on the fit challenge quest, the only shirt of him that has a clean upper chest and shoulder angle shape, but has issues on the breast, diagonal wrinkles.

Even looks totally off and effeminate ( as everything on him) is his best fit shirt. Worse was Burgos Madrid and Tanga by far.

This degenerate spends a fortune on pro photographers and can´t go to a 1,5 euros fast laundery pressing to get that unshirt ironed while he seduces the paki male workers with his nude chest, or he has been cleaning his car windows before with that rag on his hand?
 
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aristoi bcn said:
1) Bespoke.
2) Both.
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You should really press that shirt to see how it actually fits! But, in either case, the shoulders seem too wide for your frame. And the unsleeves are way too baggy, at least for my taste. I don't particularly appreciate a shirt that is too tight around the waist, but, even then, there seems to be a lot of extra tissu on that one.

Is that the first shirt they ever cut for you?
 
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aristoi bcn said:
1) Bespoke.
2) Both.
Click to expand...

Having a bespoke shirt made to wear casually with a casual denim seems to me counter-intuitive, especially if wearing untucked.

Craptoms look is even more "I want to be casual but my understanding of it is mechanical and robot-like"

No soul.

What jeans are you wearing? I think you have some issues going on there. Strange fit in some places.

The picture that comes forward is an igent trying too hard to be casual.

I'm not being rude but the look comes off kind of stiff
 
Even Craptom's shirt would probably gain a lot with a proper press. I'm actually pretty impressed with that shirt compared to other pieces of crap he has commissioned.
 
Thruth said:
Having a bespoke shirt made to wear casually with a casual denim seems to me counter-intuitive, especially if wearing untucked.

Craptoms look is even more "I want to be casual but my understanding of it is mechanical and robot-like"

No soul.

What jeans are you wearing? I think you have some issues going on there. Strange fit in some places.

The picture that comes forward is an igent trying too hard to be casual.

I'm not being rude but the look comes off kind of stiff
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No worries, all comments are more than welcome.

The shirt is intended to be worn tucked mostly. Boglioli/Aspesi washed jacket, denim shirt, denims or washed chinos from Incotex. That kind of look. When I was a 6 years old child my favorite shirt was a denim shirt from Burberry. Since then, I've always had denim shirts in my closet. Currently I have some RTW shirts from Salvatore Piccolo and I wanted something in the line with a bigger collar and with better fit, proper shirt length, etc.

The jeans are Levi's raw denim, the fit is not yet good in the waist (too big) because they haven't been washed yet. I know they will shrink one size.
 
rdiaz said:
Ouch. Press them so we can see the fit more clearly, but they don't look bespoke. Who made them?
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Francesco Merolla. The pictures were taken half a day after putting them on, but they were pressed.

Jupiter said:
At first glance it seems to be a complete failure. Nevertheless it could be useful to press them and button the last button.
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They were pressed, but the cloth is heavyweight denim.

Lumpen said:
You have to return those shits.

Awful overall looking, looks a 20 euros random size rtw

technical failures ( is all a big fail):

total off shoulder angle, see the diagonal wrinkles all around due to that.

Sleeves: totally twisted wrinkled, is a crime, totally out of pitch.

Did he measured your biceps width? If he did as he should have been done, he has just used a the first size 40 carton pattern he watched on his wall instead.

Bad back, plenty of room there, even should have have added darts to correct his
roomy taking of measures.

Also, the shirt has bad balance, this is a technical thing that only a few real masters know how to do, and this Merolla is a MERDOLLA, la grande merda!

See how the shirts jumps to the front on the low belly part.

Honestly this thing can´t be called Italian bespoke, is a grande truffa!

You can do the following:

Send pics to Merdolla and see how he reacts, if he is a pro he will say, return that rag, I need to polish my windows, if he is a poor one who lives out of a name ( as he looks he is, considering in Naples are tons of jokes about him, and now I know why) , he will say: Wait until you order next shirts and the fit will improve with those ( while my bank account also improves out of delivering crap and being unable to have ethics to correct my failures)

Folks, you should write a post on fake arthisans and scammers featuring Merdolla, la grande merda!
Did he ever did a test shirt or measured himself? If so, he deserves death penalty.

First thing Craptom wins on the fit challenge quest, the only shirt of him that has a clean upper chest and shoulder angle shape, but has issues on the breast, diagonal wrinkles.

Even looks totally off and effeminate ( as everything on him) is his best fit shirt. Worse was Burgos Madrid and Tanga by far.

This degenerate spends a fortune on pro photographers and can´t go to a 1,5 euros fast laundery pressing to get that unshirt ironed while he seduces the paki male workers with his nude chest, or he has been cleaning his car windows before with that rag on his hand?
Click to expand...

Thanks Lumpen, all aspects noted. This is not the first shirt, so I think I'll try another shirtmaker next time.

viaattovannucci said:
You should really press that shirt to see how it actually fits! But, in either case, the shoulders seem too wide for your frame. And the unsleeves are way too baggy, at least for my taste. I don't particularly appreciate a shirt that is too tight around the waist, but, even then, there seems to be a lot of extra tissu on that one.

Is that the first shirt they ever cut for you?
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The third shirt, actually.
 
I think I follow that chinafriend, and I really like the curve of the lapels into the quarters, but it is so fitted open I’ve wondered if it was intentionally cut to not be buttoned.
 
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