From structured shoulder to a natural shoulder...

[Grand Potentate]

Betel, the Dhaka Foo shoulder humps are horrible. Only the first jacket in the thread doesn't have them. (edit: borderline on your left shoulder) Don't let Rambo fool you.

Clearly they're not the greatest thing in the world. But Betel isn't your typical SF'er, $10k in debt. He doesn't have the money to go out and buy several new jackets. So, why not get some use out of these while waiting for them to sell?

 

[LelandJ]

I just checked and Betel's been on SF for 2.5 years, how in the hell did he just learn about his shoulder problems? Did no one over there help him till recently? Jesus Christ, even my current tailor wouldn't lie about that.

 

[Grand Potentate]

I just checked and Betel's been on SF for 2.5 years, how in the hell did he just learn about his shoulder problems? Did no one over there help him till recently? Jesus Christ, even my current tailor wouldn't lie about that.

You already know the answer to this.

 

[LelandJ]

You already know the answer to this.

I may not. We need to know how many padded jackets Betel has and how many with shoulder problems. If it's less than 15% no big deal chalk it up as learning process. He could have shown the entirety of his unjackets in this thread.

 

[fxh]

Clearly they're not the greatest thing in the world. But Betel isn't your typical SF'er, $10k in debt. He doesn't have the money to go out and buy several new jackets. So, why not get some use out of these while waiting for them to sell?

Clearly they're not the greatest thing in the world. But Betel isn't your typical SF'er, $10k in debt immature and with unlimited parental money . He doesn't have the money to go out and buy several new jackets. So, why not get some use out of these while waiting for them to sell?

FTFY

 

[Betelgeuse]

Betel, the Dhaka Foo shoulder humps are horrible. Only the first jacket in the thread doesn't have them. (edit: borderline on your left shoulder) Don't let Rambo fool you.

Hehehe.

Well I bought those when I was a bit slimmer than I am now. Plus the pics were not always full body.

 

[Leitmotif]

Hehehe.

Well I bought those when I was a bit slimmer than I am now. Plus the pics were not always full body.

Deja de comer tacos y la bebida esa de arroz que ustedes toman, no te esta haciendo bien. Goldito

 

[Betelgeuse]

Deja de comer tacos y la bebida esa de arroz que ustedes toman, no te esta haciendo bien. Goldito

Jajaja. He puesto algo de peso para ganar algo de músculo jajaja.

 

[Journeyman]

The jackets aren't too bad, Betel.

The DB jacket that you posted at the beginning of the thread has very clean shoulders, and that is the ideal. However, although the other jacket sleeves look a little bit dimpled/rumpled at the sleevehead, they're not bad.

It's really up to you as to what you want to do. As others have said, if you remove the shoulder pads, it may well not fix the problem and it may actually make the dimpling/rumpling worse.

Have a look at this post by JefferyD on SF about shoulder issues:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/151698/divot-terror#post_2686570

This one keeps coming up and most people are mistaken about the causes so here's a detailed look at what causes shoulder divots or dents.
First, the divots have nothing to do with the width of the shoulder- we often hear people making comments about a shoulder being too wide because it is denting but this is not the cause. Look at old photos of Tommy Nutter's work- you can't get much wider than that and they don't dent.
Second, the divots have nothing to do with the amount of shoulder padding; again, you can tons of it and not have dents, and you can have dents on an unpadded shoulder.
THIS is what causes the divots.
The armhole must be cut in the right shape for the body of the wearer. The sleeve is then cut in a very precise relationship to the armhole. In the figure below, the height of the armhole dictates the height of the sleeve cap and the width of the armhole dictates the width of the sleeve cap. We'll say that distance a-b must be equal to e-f and distance c-d must be equal to g-h (for the super geeks, this is not the actual formula but we'll say it is for simplicity).
If you put on a jacket whose armhole has not been cut wide enough for you, or that the chest pulls because it is too tight (or a host of other reasons the armhole may distort) the armhole will contract- it will get wider and shorter. The sleeve cap is now too long and narrow (a-b is shorter than e-f and c-d is wider than g-h) so it pulls from front to back, and the extra length collapses. THIS is what causes the divot.
The only way to try to remedy this is to remove the sleeve and shorten the cap (cut away excess length); this will, in some cases, be sufficient, but in many cases you also need some extra width to the sleeve cap, which you will not be able to gain since there is no outlet for it. This is neither easy nor cheap so your average dry-cleaner alterations tailor may not be able to do it.
The only way to know if a jacket is gong to do this is to try it on. If it dents, try a size up or try a different maker.

I think that, given that the shoulders on all of your jackets look decent (let's face it, it's only obsessive people like us who would ever notice something like that), unless you think that you can sell them for a decent amount, you should just keep them and wear them until they need to be replaced and then, when you replace them, make sure that you get something that fits your shoulders really well, like the DB jacket that you included in the pictures.

Until then, just wear without care!

 

[LelandJ]

Yeah just pretend they're Rubinacci, has all the same characteristics.

 

[Betelgeuse]

The jackets aren't too bad, Betel.

The DB jacket that you posted at the beginning of the thread has very clean shoulders, and that is the ideal. However, although the other jacket sleeves look a little bit dimpled/rumpled at the sleevehead, they're not bad.

It's really up to you as to what you want to do. As others have said, if you remove the shoulder pads, it may well not fix the problem and it may actually make the dimpling/rumpling worse.

Have a look at this post by JefferyD on SF about shoulder issues:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/151698/divot-terror#post_2686570



I think that, given that the shoulders on all of your jackets look decent (let's face it, it's only obsessive people like us who would ever notice something like that), unless you think that you can sell them for a decent amount, you should just keep them and wear them until they need to be replaced and then, when you replace them, make sure that you get something that fits your shoulders really well, like the DB jacket that you included in the pictures.

Until then, just wear without care!

Thanks mate! Will do.

Yeah just pretend they're Rubinacci, has all the same characteristics.

Hahahahahaha!