The Shoe Snob/j. Fitzpatrick

mimo said:
That's a bit harsh, as Vass don't really do wholesale prices in the way other makers do: if you were wholesaling C&J, you'd pay maybe 45-55% or retail depending on your order. For Vass it's more like 60-70% of their own retail price. On that basis, most shoe retailers are making about 50% gross on a sale. But for that they provide their shop. might also have to eat import duties, have their staff and service overheads, and most importantly, have to pay for the lot up front however long it takes to sell them. For which they might have to have a sale on many items, or in some cases, all items e.g. NMWA's standard SF discount.

So just because someone like NMWA charges more than Vass do direct, at least in theory, doesn't mean they're making any more per item than any other shoe shop. I suspect in percentages, they make less than most. As they also have the sense to vary their lines from Vass standard lines, you could also take into account that to buy the same shoes direct would cost an extra hundred Euros for MTO as well. So after SF discount at least, the difference isn't much to shout about.

When I first joined SF, though, I had a small run-in with Epaulet: I pointed out that their "special group MTO" for a boot from Carmina was actually more expensive than just ordering the MTO from Carmina - especially ridiculous as by definition, a "group MTO" isn't really MTO at all, it's just a limited edition on which a group of people usually have to compromise. It was an especially shitty deal if you happened to live in NY as well, as you'd add an extra 10% sales tax. Naturally all my posts were deleted. Of course, Epaulet have to make money too and they have an expensive bricks and mortar store. But Carmina DO wholesale to shops, presumably at a better margin than Vass, and this whole MTO business strikes me as rather dishonest when it represents an upcharge presented as a special opportunity. After all, you lose all the benefits of a bricks and mortar store anyway, as you can neither see it before you buy it, nor return it.

That guy Arahat with his group buy pissed me off too - I've started MTOs before for the sake of getting the shoes I want at a discount. That dude, I guess with a view to being a vendor himself in Australia, has managed to quote 10% more than the individual MTO price when ordering ninety pairs of shoes. Now that's price gouging - especially when you're promoting this as a community activity and not a business. Needless to say, I didn't order.
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No.

It's a shame that some retailers had to enforce regional distribution rights; it says much about the lack of value add of their services. And it only happened to brands that has less bargaining power too; Alfred Sargent, Carmina, Vass, etc.
 
I have talked with this Fitz, not only he has any idea about, but is another shill without basic education and a narcissistic who thinks he is the best. He said to me i got no idea and Kiton does not do bespoke shoes, while i have seen myself a last for several UK singer celebrities and even filmed the process. When I replied this to him, he gave this narcissistic answer, that Kiton does for x does not seems they are a bespoke shoemakers. ( Then what are, pizza makers?) Narcissistics will never reckon they were wrong, but will invent as bad politicians all kind of verbal subterfuges to be over you or the Truth. Here is an example.

He might be a lumpen from any cheap industrial carbon mine area of UK, with my full respect to the people who have that job but are dignous on the contrary.

He said Lattanzi can´t justify his high price but his rookie tacky horrid shilled friend can justify a price of 2000 euros for a pair of horrid shoes. Craptom II with education of an slamdweller.
 
Sartodinapoli said:
I have talked with this Fitz, not only he has any idea about, but is another shill without basic education and a narcissistic who thinks he is the best. He said to me i got no idea and Kiton does not do bespoke shoes, while i have seen myself a last for several UK singer celebrities and even filmed the process. When I replied this to him, he gave this narcissistic answer, that Kiton does for x does not seems they are a bespoke shoemakers. ( Then what are, pizza makers?) Narcissistics will never reckon they were wrong, but will invent as bad politicians all kind of verbal subterfuges to be over you or the Truth. Here is an example.

He might be a lumpen from any cheap industrial carbon mine area of UK, with my full respect to the people who have that job but are dignous on the contrary.

He said Lattanzi can´t justify his high price but his rookie tacky horrid shilled friend can justify a price of 2000 euros for a pair of horrid shoes. Craptom II with education of an slamdweller.
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Maybe so. He is an lumpen American living in the UK. But you and Fitzpatrick both share a love of Gaziano & Girling shoes!
 
thruth said:
Maybe so. He is an lumpen American living in the UK. But you and Fitzpatrick both share a love of Gaziano & Girling shoes!
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Yes, Gaziano is a top person and perhaps the best around.

See what he said;

I am sorry but i dont agree with anything you say. Sounds like you have a personal beef as none of that is objective. You think Lattanzi's shoes are justified at €6000? If yes, then I rest my case. Kiton doesnt do bespoke shoes and neither does Green. ...

You have no clue about what you are talking about, especially when you say that Lattanzi can justify their price. What a joke. And just because Kiton made one shoe for a King on a "special last" does make them bespoke shoemakers. We can leave it this because you clearly have a hidden agenda and some beef with Norman and I am not interested in it nor all of your fantasies about Italy, Italian legends and how great Naples is....


Me;

You are a narcissistic with no clue, who think he is the best or your friends are. Now return to shill those ugly shoes and learn education. You are simply a loser and a lumpenproletariat and an envious of people with class and success. Also your written understanding is 0 ( this is related with low IQ as well, sorry to say) I meant the singer of the Lion King, not any King who might be. You are a disgusting troll and a newcomber. Ciao Ciao. By the way, i have never met Norman, or interested on. Just i said his ugly shoes do not worth 2000, or even 300. Now you can show this and ask him for a discount by promoting shill. Sure you are not interested on Naples, you lack of the class to be client of any of them. Who can´t justify the 2000 price is your hilled rookie. Period, ciao ciao. Fantasies says the rookie troll, fantasies are calling shoe to this crap.



Will finish with this, Latanzzi or who ever ( true stars) can´t justify his price, but your rookie friend can justify 2000 euros for a 350 pair. An Applause. Good night. Even Simon Crap-tom would do a shill like.


Can someone confirm if Green does not does bespoke? I thought they did.
 
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Why are we still talking about Mr. Shoe Snob?

He claims he's a shoe maker but he only made handful of shoes; he claims to be knowledgeable about shoe manufacturing but I doubt he visited any mass manufacturing plants (i.e., none of those in UK). He is, afterall, a brand maker for his eponymous name brand shoes. Nothing more, nothing less.
 
Well he has visited plants in Span a couple of mass producing plants that manufacture shoes of same quality than Northampton. His "factory" only makes private label shoes, albeit they have started launching their own brand a couple of years back. Crust leathers + customized patina all goodyear for just below 300 euros. I agree that the shoe snob is just a marketer but some of his models are quite attractive ie: the wholecut loafer. However his lasts are hideous with the expection of the ones designed by Tony Gaziano.
 
Wow, he does horrid low quality stuff, another who has any idea about shoes ( he even said Kiton does not do
bespoke shoes while the truth is their school is placed on the same building as they make the shoes)

Another newcomber pretentious low class talking bullshit and shilling for cash. We should remember the maker of this thread was banned of the other forum for saying this shill got for free a pair of was 8000 euros? cocodrile or similar tacky boots.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/344162/j-fitzpatrick-appreciation-thread/255
 
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thruth said:
yes, who is Norman and why don't you want to meet him?
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Norman is a very tacky, horrid and overpriced ( 2000 euros for this crap) argentinian inmigrant on Catalonia fooling people with money and but any class as most of the burgueoises of Catalonia are. Just people with the most expensive Mercedes( to impress) but never a classy car as Bentley, Jag, Maserati etc on a polyester 3 sizes bigger and 40 euros ugly shoes, also asking for the most expensive wine on the restaurant, as it was the best one. My family has always evitated and made fun of this newriches and show off people.

Also he is shilled by this ghey who invited me on the phone to " sleep with him" and after you know my answer, he started using fakely my name with post plenty of fails etc to try to humillate me, even his ignorant readers realiced he was not myself.

Judge yourself, what kind of tacky ghey clown can wear those socks, and one different on each foot. Only an histrionic schyzotypal disordered as i exposed. He also continues getting cash from the adverts of Gianni, so is accomplice of criminal behaviour by selling fake stuff, he shills the worst ever tailors saying that are better than Savile or Naples, on private conversations he says Attolini is the best, but on public, to get cash or freebies says the best are his untailors, this is the one with the defective shirt with horizontal stripes.

Albertito is member of his " elegance club" where he asks 200 euros per year just for nothing, earning 10.000 euros fooling people who want to learn, or more pretentious as he is.

His guest have seen the elite of the tackys, Rubinacci, Crap-tom, the french ungentleman mason and hairy, that horrid french shoemaker, a poor Savile tailor called Anderson ( poor and askes 6000 euros for a suit that barely deserves 500), Gianni and this Norman.

The elite of the crap. He is totally banned on Naples even he stalks a lot of friends of mine, who i already advised what kind of infamous he is. Example, invited Rubinacci, who i consider a hyped crap of course, but he and his untailors after it said; we have inspectioned the best neapolitan( sic) and we are far over it.

No honour, inviting a person to after it using fake facts to hype and lie over themselves.

This ignorant, as crap-tom who he copied his business style ( shill, shill and shill) is unable to know a handmade buttonhole from a machine made one.

The sad day i met him, walkers on the street were saying, look at that homo clown and look the swedish prince that walks with him ( myself), on the restaurant, with beat this, green velvet monks, acid colour socks, a vest and a bowtie ( ghey uniform) all were looking at us and commenting, look that clown, look that clown. When i asked him, how do you dare to wear that tacky crap while you write against fashion, he replied me this shoes are " on fashion " on Madrid.
FAKER, LOW PERSONALITY, DRESS FOR OTHERS, IGENT, BRIBED SHILL IGNORANT WHO WE GOT TO UNMASK.

Here is the clown;

2v9xapy.jpg


http://www.elaristocrata.com/2014/06/bespoke-xxv-norman-vilalta-last-and.html
 
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On the article he comments, the shoemaker has to be psychologist to know about the personality of the client.




Him;

or psychologist enough to interpret the personality of your customer can get to bring to life that shoe that only displays the subconscious and the desire of the customer.

Me;



Well you see, I'm about to be psychologist and as tired of repeating, you are a sick histrionic and schizotypal personality disorder as you might have been diagnosed. Heal and stop infecting unwary with their abject desecration of the classic style that you do not belong.

You are a nerd tacky of Telecircus ( an European trash tv )
 
robertito said:
Well he has visited plants in Span a couple of mass producing plants that manufacture shoes of same quality than Northampton. His "factory" only makes private label shoes, albeit they have started launching their own brand a couple of years back. Crust leathers + customized patina all goodyear for just below 300 euros. I agree that the shoe snob is just a marketer but some of his models are quite attractive ie: the wholecut loafer. However his lasts are hideous with the expection of the ones designed by Tony Gaziano.
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Another prove this Spaniard ignorant envious has any clue about this world.

A Spanish plant that manufacture shoes of same quality than Northampton ? Jajajaja, I even i consider Northhampton Crocket and Jones, crap quality and quite easy to achieve, there is NO Spanish plant that even makes a mediocre shoe. Please do not feed this ignorant who bullshits with any clue, he must return to his dark room, the spanish left on a corner sissys blog or the tackystocrat i expossed above, where is of course member.

Crapmina is maybe the best Spanish shoe and for me is crap and overpriced. On Kiton the shoemaster handled my crapmina shoes, ( as well as my mother, who apart of doctor, was born on our factory, and said, this is good only for construction as chalet faccade bricks). What a rigid heavy shoe with poor leathers and poor finishing. You paid 350 e for this sh*t? Shame i did.

On mine the insoles are not fixed and move after each step, the leather did break as a cookie ( bad leathers, this never happened on my italian handmade leather car seats even let without the top at the sun with over 45 celsious)

This is crapmina;
169s0u8.jpg
 
I think that paco the sarto means Norman Vilalta. There is another bespoke shoemaker in Barcelona called Black Cuervo. Anyone knows him? and whether a Spanish benchamade shoe is as good as a northampton shoe, I see no reason why not. Ie: Lotusse has been making shoes since 1877.
 
robertito said:
I think that paco the sarto means Norman Vilalta. There is another bespoke shoemaker in Barcelona called Black Cuervo. Anyone knows him? and whether a Spanish benchamade shoe is as good as a northampton shoe, I see no reason why not. Ie: Lotusse has been making shoes since 1877.
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a Spanish benchamade shoe is as good as a northampton shoe, he said. This troll has never seen a good shoe as in his tacky live.

And is Lotusse a nice shoe? Yes as good as Edward Green right? ajjajajaja,

Please make this ignorant troll return with his ugly shoes and purple socks. This is a forum for machos and good dressers, not the arstocrat or crap-tom ones.
 
Robertito, the arstocrat, both Gianni friends and supporters ( of crime either)

For this purpose are their " vintage ties"

m8pjpt.jpg


2rc5sna.jpg


Next Gianni Pitti attire;

utp3b.jpg
 
Sartodinapoli - I like photo of Spanish people.
Which one is you?
1 , or 2 or 3?
s1.jpg
 
We can't do a direct comparison between Edward Green or Lottusse since both products retail at the different price and of course they have different quality. This is not what I said. I only mentioned Lotusse (no my favorite shoe by all means) because they have a history behind making shoes, like many other producers. As for the volumes, well I have no figures but Paco Milan produces shoes for a large numbers of European/American brands. The fact we don't know how to sell a product doesn't mean that the product is not good. Please tell me who sells a benchmade goodyear with JR soles and crust leather for 185Euros? Maybe if the price would be double/we put a label Made in Italy the consideration would be different.
 
I don´t know, my full life is only concerned about the achieving of the maximun quality, hence i am not interested on mediocre or bad products. This can sound snob, but is the truth.

I share with Ciro Paone or my grandpa, the mania of perfection, so this mediocre brands or shills as the Ars.tocrat who only promote crap, but fool saying are the best in the world, gives me diarrea. The same as reading the most incoherent weirdo who writes against fashion but is a damn fashionista with clown socks
and clown Pitti looking. I am only interested on him as student of psychology, as is a goldmine of disorder symbtoms.

I got an open bid with several cathedratics, psychiatricians and other students as if that tackystocrat blogger siffers of narcissistic/histrionic, schyzotypal or disociative disorder, aka double personality, Jekill and Hide, as he writes one thing but does the opposite. Or if he is simply a thieve, a bribed and an ignorant. I think he is all at once.
 
I continue to be amazed at how Sarto can come into a thread and entirely divert it from its original topic by bringing in a multitude of other parties who have somehow slighted or disappointed him over the years.

I thought that this thread was meant to be about Justin Fitzpatrick, not about a variety of other people including Spanish shoemakers that virtually no-one besides Sarto has ever heard of.
 
I like them. Good price, too.

The "Snoqualmie" model looks nice, too, and would be well-suited to the weather in your part of the world at present.

I wonder if the Snoqualmie is a proper whole-cut hiking boot, with just one seam at the back covered by a double- or triple-stitched strip of leather? I hope that they are. Mind you, they're probably not as waterproof as my old pair of Scarpas with a vulcanised sole that's been heat-sealed to the upper.
 
Journeyman said:
I like them. Good price, too.

The "Snoqualmie" model looks nice, too, and would be well-suited to the weather in your part of the world at present.

I wonder if the Snoqualmie is a proper whole-cut hiking boot, with just one seam at the back covered by a double- or triple-stitched strip of leather? I hope that they are. Mind you, they're probably not as waterproof as my old pair of Scarpas with a vulcanised sole that's been heat-sealed to the upper.
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kind of looks that way by the pics. i doubt they are as technical as a proper hiking boot but still an interesting boot nonetheless. i wonder if that is a copy of a Ridgeway sole as there are no Dainite markings
 
Thruth said:
kind of looks that way by the pics. i doubt they are as technical as a proper hiking boot but still an interesting boot nonetheless. i wonder if that is a copy of a Ridgeway sole as there are no Dainite markings
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well, thats the so called wensum sole. looks like a great boot. good balance - not missing anything.
 
I actually quite like the French leather he's using. It's very supple, meaning the shoes are comfortable from day 1, and don't crease as much.

Sartodi's world seems to be very black and white, while in reality there are just many shades of grey.
 
walker said:
scotchgrain? interesting, at least ...
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No, just his general calf leather. I actually prefer it to the leather of my G&Gs, they seem to wrinkle much more. I haven't seen these scotch grain boots yet.
 
walker said:
so you can confirm that G&G is nothing but a big bubble? tbh, I saw this coming ... ... just why?



my gut feeling is good. I personally prefer a stronger sole on a boot like this, though.
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Yes, would have been nice for something other than the Wensum sole
 
Thruth said:
Yes, would have been nice for something other than the Wensum sole
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well, considering your "sole-phobia", I honestly thought the wensum is right up your alley, not?

fwiw, being guilty myself having shoes/boots topied in the past and now slowly recycling, I feel best with some variations in my autumn/winter boot arsenal. I just had a boot "recycled" from topy to leather sole(8 - 10 mm) but hadn't the chance to wear them already.
 
walker said:
so you can confirm that G&G is nothing but a big bubble? tbh, I saw this coming ... ... just why?



my gut feeling is good. I personally prefer a stronger sole on a boot like this, though.
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No, it's not a big sham. I do like som of their lasts and love the Gable with the stitched leather. A very nice alternative to a standard captoe oxford. They look and feel well made. I wouldn't pay £1000 for them, but around £500 would be fair. I got mine at the sample sale for £350, no defects.
 
Monkeyface said:
No, it's not a big sham. I do like som of their lasts and love the Gable with the stitched leather. A very nice alternative to a standard captoe oxford. They look and feel well made. I wouldn't pay £1000 for them, but around £500 would be fair. I got mine at the sample sale for £350, no defects.
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with the fear of derailing this thread. the Gable is pretty much the antithesis of a shoe for me. no offense.

imo, G&G is a retort brand. a very succesful one, though. just not what I'm looking for in respect to shoemaking and the tradition of it.
 
I really don't care about the history or tradition. I can appreciate it, but if a shoemaker decides to try something new I'm all for it. I hate the look of most budapesters for example. As long as it's well made and looks nice, I'm game.

The gable with a straight captoe, not that pointy one, is a very nice alternative to a normal captoe. It doesn't stand out at all, as it's just subtly different, and a nice addition to my other 3 standard black cap toes.

I mean, if we'd all stick to traditions awesome things like the drape cut would have never been invented. We'd be walking around in tights an wigs, depending on when you think 'tradition' started.
 
Monkeyface said:
I really don't care about the history or tradition. I can appreciate it, but if a shoemaker decides to try something new I'm all for it. I hate the look of most budapesters for example. As long as it's well made and looks nice, I'm game.
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well, I blame Vass for calling all wingtips regardless of the makeup budapesters. this is just not right. an authentic budapester is a full brogue derby on the budapester last, period. out of curiosity, you can probably guide me to a "bad" example? I'm interested ...

Monkeyface said:
The gable with a straight captoe, not that pointy one, is a very nice alternative to a normal captoe. It doesn't stand out at all, as it's just subtly different, and a nice addition to my other 3 standard black cap toes.
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... at least you have black shoes. although, I have one, it was accidently, which I do not regret, though. its not a staple here. its neither fish nor foul on the formality scale. so, I don't see the point of this model/style.

afaik, there is only one gable - frankenstitch and diamond cap, not?
 
walker said:
well, I blame Vass for calling all wingtips regardless of the makeup budapesters. this is just not right. an authentic budapester is a full brogue derby on the budapester last, period. out of curiosity, you can probably guide me to a "bad" example? I'm interested ...



... at least you have black shoes. although, I have one, it was accidently, which I do not regret, though. its not a staple here. its neither fish nor foul on the formality scale. so, I don't see the point of this model/style.

afaik, there is only one gable - frankenstitch and diamond cap, not?
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Black cap toes is all everyone wears in London. Do you think there's a more appropriate shoe for navy and charcoal business suits with white shirts?

My Gable has a straight cap toe, it was a MTO that the client didn't pick up or something like that. I've attached a pic.

A standard budapester would be a normal Dinckelaler or whatever those clogs are called, right?
 

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Monkeyface said:
Black cap toes is all everyone wears in London. Do you think there's a more appropriate shoe for navy and charcoal business suits with white shirts?
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easy, plain toe. ymmv.

Monkeyface said:
My Gable has a straight cap toe, it was a MTO that the client didn't pick up or something like that. I've attached a pic.
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its barely visible, but my imagination is strong enough. the frankenstitch kills it for me, though. there might be a reason the client didn't pick it up. shrugging shoulders ...

Monkeyface said:
A standard budapester would be a normal Dinckelaler or whatever those clogs are called, right?
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no
 
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