Succumbing To The Tyranny Of #Menswear

I don't quite get it. I wear pretty much the same thing every time I go to work. Gray slacks, blue poplin, odd jacket, no tie. I blend in, just a little sharper, a little better put-together. Good tailoring, AE's, pocket square.

Now, granted, I'm a consultant, so people don't see me every single day for weeks on end, and maybe that's why I feel I can get away with this. Also, I'm in the PNW where even in a business environment people dress like flood victims.

#menswear means you're trying too Goddamned hard.
 
I think #menswear satisfies the same inner desires and emotions that being "emo" or a prep in high school did. Just another way to label oneself. The insecure ones have merely adopted the fine trappings of traditional menswear and twisted it into another banner to be raised.

Says the man wearing "happy socks" today.

My failings don't preclude me from critical thinking.
 
Sometimes I feel that #Menswear is like the Mirrrey from around here... but those are worse...

"Hey Lobuki, take us a picture so they believe we are celebrities"

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:areyoukiddingme:
 
Chester said:
But... Why have the buttons been cut out and sewn back in?
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Who knows... but probably it's from a well-known designer and expensive, so he is going to wear it. That's how the "Mirrrey" mentality works. :challengedenied:
 
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Harveybirdman said:
Why the desire to show off your wrists? They're not that attractive, and neither is your ostentatious gold watch. Looks like one of those assholes who wears a watch but really can't use it so when you ask him what time it is he looks at his cell phone instead of his watch.

Asshole.
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HAHAHAHAHA! Yes! :LOLguy:
 
Harveybirdman said:
Why the desire to show off your wrists? They're not that attractive, and neither is your ostentatious gold watch. Looks like one of those assholes who wears a watch but really can't use it so when you ask him what time it is he looks at his cell phone instead of his watch.

Asshole.
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I remember asking a guy the time once. He looked at his watch, then said he didn't know as he went to pull out his cell phone. I questioned him a bit after the fact and he showed me his blinging Nixon (or whatever it was) and it didn't have numbers on the watch face beyond 12,3,6, &9. It was approximately 10 after 7.

:areyoukiddingme:
 
I love Movados, so I can't hate on form before function. I have three, all museum, brown leather, black leather, and steel bands. Only watches I own or wear, but I can time on them pretty quick (maybe a half second behind someone with a bit more practical a watch).
 
Leaving your fly down to demonstrate you've color coordinated your boxers with your tie is next level sprezz. Patch of crotch cloth is the new pocket square.
 
I starch the shit out of my underwear. Makes the johnson itch, but a blotchy pecker is worth being recognized as "The Man" within the sartorial circles among which I run.
 
Recently read this blog post by "Midwestyle" and found it especially poignant, now going on 4 years in the #menswear game.

STARTED FROM THE BOTTOM NOW WE’RE HERE
An open letter to you, from our newest contributor, David Hall:

A lot of you reading this today were around about four or five years ago doing something pretty similar. You know, perusing the various OG #menswear blogs, parroting your favorite looks without shame, studying the gospel of Americana.

You started your day with a marathon viewing of Paul Newman and vintage Robert Redford slideshows (a lil’ inspiration with those Wheaties!) before lacing up your Red Wings, throwing on your friend’s Dad’s old, tweed blazer, and sneaking a peek at the cuffs on that selvage denim you knew would take a while to break in (but-dammit-if-I-could-just-take-the-stairs-without-looking-like-I’ve-still-got-my-sea-legs).

We all knew the spiel—our very own Hail Michael of sorts. A selection:

  • “Men’s style has lost its way, and everything has become too consumeristic.”
  • “Everyone is looking for the next big thing, but we have to get back to our roots and celebrate a time when things were made intentionally and meant to last. Like, let’s see: A farmer’s jeans were meant to do things in, and everything was made in the US-of-A.”
  • “I mean, look at this photo of my dad when he was our age. HE WAS ACTUALLY COOL. And his clothes fit better than ours.”
  • “We’ve got to start caring about how we dress, and there’s simply no cutting corners. The right clothes are expensive, and this is no laughing matter. But we’re straight because these boots have a lifetime warranty, this heavyweight denim will last a lifetime, and this hat is made in the same factory
    that made Babe Ruth’s hats.”
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Now, don’t get me wrong; my spirit animal is whatever beast wears the skin that eventually becomes a pair of Alden Shell Cordovan PTB’s. But let’s call a spade a spade here. Times have changed. Maybe not that much, but enough. It’s been a few years, and they were right. Your Thousand Miles still have about 600 miles left in ‘em, and that Barbour jacket could use a fresh coat of wax.

But…are you really gonna wax a jacket? I mean, you’re 27 now. And you are working, like, a lot.

You get home, open a craft brew (don’t even get me started), and before long Googling “how to wax a jacket” sounds like the worst thing in the world. Then the gears start turning. You price a few used Barbour jackets on eBay and (wouldn’t you know it?) that’ll go a long way toward that J. Crew Ludlow Topcoat you need to upgrade your YoPro status. A few clicks and cell phone pics later, and the deed is done. Your finely crafted piece of #menswear history will move on to partially shield the rain from some young buck in Cleveland for year to come.

And thus ends this twisted tale that began with justification and ended with, well, justification. The fact of the matter is that a lot of us aren’t ready to buy “the last pair of boots you’ll ever own.” It’s never a bad idea to buy quality, to buy USA-made, or to buy timeless pieces. With enough time, these purchases usually pay for themselves, but for heaven’s sake sometimes it’s fun to get new things. It’s often an expensive lesson to learn, but hey, at least you went with the jacket and not that tattoo of the dog you and your college roommates bought together because I don’t know why.

Moral of the story: Buy what you can afford, and budget *vomit sound* for both the classic staples and this season’s shiny new toy.

Regards,

Your New Friend, Confidant, Nemesis,

David Hall

P.S. I was going to write a post introducing myself, telling you about my fears and hopes and dreams. But then I realized maybe you don’t want to know me like that—not just yet. Alls you need is proof that other people out there are still figuring this out, fruitless investments and all. So here’s to growing up, still being awesome, and Shazamming songs on the radio to stay relevant. I am excited to be here, and thanks for reading :/
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Why is the last half struckthrough?

Also, in said last half, it sounds like he's just trying to rationalize being lazy as opposed to taking care of his shit.
 
Rambo said:
Why is the last half struckthrough?

Also, in said last half, it sounds like he's just trying to rationalize being lazy as opposed to taking care of his shit.
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Idk about the striking - wasn't that way on the original site.

And I would agree.

Chester said:
I think that probably illustrates the divide between genuine old school "everything lasts for ever" mindset and people who have bought into the phrase as a justification. So many #menswear enthusiasts don't take care of their garments.

How long does it take to re-wax a jacket?
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Having rewaxed mine, probably 3-4 hours from start to hang-up-to-dry. And that's the max, having never done it beforehand and learning as I went.
 
El Argentino said:
Idk about the striking - wasn't that way on the original site.

And I would agree.
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That's why I was wondering. Thought you might be trying some sly commentary on this thoughts there. I think you accidentally hit the strike through button.
 
You know what costs the most? Buying things twice. There's a point of diminishing returns, but factor in enjoyment of the time over life and the hassle of replacement and you usually get a case of the cheap man pays most. Obviously don't go out on a limb financially, but on the other hand the forced careful consideration will lead to better selection than that closet full of disposable impulse 'bargains'. Also, just wear the damn coat with the wax worn off. Did you really get it for water repellance?

Chester said:
I can fully understand the need to partake in this demonstration of membership to the club that is Menswear Enthusiast. Like the club tie, regimental pin and de facto uniform that have all gone before, the little sign that you belong to a group that others do not is one that exists in all arenas.
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There does seem to be a bit of the evolutionary theory of runaway selection (where an advantageous trait is seen as desirable and progresses to cartoonish extents that totally lose the original intent) with the #menswear shibboleths. If no trouser break is good, isn't negative break with cuffs up above the ankles even better? If a closer fitting coat is what GQ wants, how about if I get one so tight I can't button it! If a splash of color is cool, how great is many splashes of color!
 
I like that - runaway selection. That's an excellent use of scientific theorem to describe this horseshit.

Also, you forgot bracelets. Clearly, if one is good, then 8 must be better!
 
Does this means that the Joker is a #menswear aficionado? I mean he is using his jacket with the sleeve buttons undone. :LOLguy:

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Rambo, these men are here to skullfuck your dreams

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I think you are gonna need to double down on that ambien.
 
Time for Fashion Week horseshit. Which StyleForum assholes are going to love the shit out of this?

http://www.nytimes.com/2014/02/13/f...r-new-york-fashion-week.html?ref=fashion&_r=0

Embracing the Struggle
The New Shapes of Men’s Wear at New York Fashion Week
By JON CARAMANICAFEB. 12, 2014


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At Public School capes, scarves and hats with swagger. Casey Kelbaugh for The New York Times


Look, sometimes a cape is just a cape. When the first model hit the runway at the Public School show, he wore a wide-brimmed hat and a wool cape, beautifully cut, that suggested papal vestments and Amish rigor. Paired with a washed-out plaid shirt, it was structure and swagger in one.

But sometimes a cape is a provocation, as it was on the back of the rapper Cam’ron, who closed the Mark McNairy New Amsterdam show strutting hand-in-hand with his girlfriend JuJu, wearing, effectively, a tweed blanket fastened at the neck and cascading down to midcalf.

New York’s Fashion Week for men, perhaps more than in any other city, shows modern men’s wear’s tug-of-war between upholding a set of traditions and embracing a set of disruptions. And for the most part, the designers showing this year were keen to pick sides, though progressivism didn’t always go hand in hand with creativity.

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A caped Cam’ron on the runway at Mark McNairy. Hiroko Masuike/The New York Times
But the most exciting moments came from designers who embraced that fundamental tension, creating vivid solutions in the process. Nowhere was that more evident than in the broad push toward exaggerated silhouettes, but without straying into comic excess.

In the case of Billy Reid’s vibrant show, this meant lush patterned blanket coats, and actual blankets, that effectively doubled the width of the wearer. He closed with a long plaid wool coat in muted tones that was pure sex, a 1975 Playgirl spread come to life. Steely cool Public School had its capes and restrained scarves folded into triangles and worn over the head, underneath hats, flapping in the wind as the models pounded the runway, looking like downtown superheroes. Both Michael Bastian and Tim Coppens showed anaconda-size scarves, elegantly suffocating their wearer. (There was also the stunning oversize motorcycle jacket shown by Melitta Baumeister at the VFiles show, ungainly and beautiful.) Duckie Brown, in a choppy show full of colorful androgyny, pushed in the other direction, pairing draped tops with skirts over skinny pants, a confusing mélange of fabrics and fits.

Plenty of designers took the opportunity to rescue plaid from the doldrums: it was there, and chalky, on a sleek loden parka by Mr. Coppens, and Mr. McNairy showed a siren-loud green-and-red tartan puffy quilted shirt that jolted Americana into a neon tomorrow. Orley showed a restrained plaid sweatsuit, and Ovadia & Sons, in a show that featured them at both their strongest and their most literal, both accessorized with plaid tied around the waist and showed a wool-and-angora glen plaid overcoat with real panache.

Seeing cheeky flourishes like Robert Geller’s layered coats and robes, or the shrieking yellow stripe on his collaboration boots with Common Projects; or the pony hair on the leopard-print sleeves of Ovadia’s moto jacket; or on the shoes at Billy Reid, suggested the time had come to retire some old ideas: Patrik Ervell’s mangy fleece (wool teddy-bear fur, actually) or Mr. McNairy’s colored-sole shoes. Seeing tailored jackets paired with sweatpant, felt like half angry rejection of old norms, half shrug. But where plenty of lines settled for being little more than haute J. Crew, Mr. Bastian was robust and singular, showing silk karate pants and heavy samurai necklaces and a meaty turtleneck with trinkets woven to the top creating a virtual Fair Isle pattern, craftsmanship as ostentation.

Fashion Week, in expanding and becoming decentered, now does a good job of making room for its outliers and dissenters. Some are fully realized, like Visvim and its distressed Western clothes with artisanal fabrics, or N. Hoolywood, with its elegant spy coats straight from a Godard film, or its wharf chic pants and jackets.


Hood by Air

Hood by Air understands theater as much as fashion (its hairpieces were sublime, too) and certainly, that matters now more than ever.

See all collections »

Some smaller labels brought a sense of humor: the jokey anti-logo T-shirts on staffers at Pyer Moss, or the virtual pop-up shop in the lobby of the New Museum for Telfar. (It was the only thing many attendees got to see, given the show’s disorganization.) Others had a sense of flair, like Hood by Air, where dancers from Vogue Evolution spent a few minutes midshow striking high-energy poses, a declaration of power on the runway that was spellbinding in a way the collection itself wasn’t quite, though it brimmed with ideas, including jackets with multiple horizontal zippers halfway open, creating a peeling-away effect, like mummies in a wind tunnel.

Hood by Air understands theater as much as fashion (its hairpieces were sublime, too) and certainly, that matters now more than ever. The rising luxury label En Noir has the same instincts, but to rowdier effect. At its Park Avenue Armory show, the lobby was as chaotic as the door at Miami club Liv on Sunday nights, the audience sprinkled with celebrities like Amar’e Stoudemire and Meek Mill.

But when the show began, all that evaporated. The collection was lean, tough, in places morbid, and rejected practically everything happening elsewhere during Fashion Week — color, silhouette, decorum — in favor of a signature emaciated apocalyptic mood, Kevlar toughness at caviar prices. The final march looked like a scene from “The Warriors.” It wasn’t a response or a rejection, just a lone wolf.
 
And these two should just be shot:

Killa Cape Season Has Begun: Cam'ron and Mark McNairy Teamed Up for a Set of Incredible Custom Capes
By James Harris | Feb 11, 2014 | 10:02 am | Permalink


Mark McNairy and Cam'ron have partnered up to create a set of custom capes for no goddamn reason at all except that now the rapper can truly stunt for what is now the official beginning Killa Cape Season. Two guys who simply do whatever the fuck they want for no particular reason other than to have fun have created four luxe capes that have elevated Cam's cape game to Jawn Draper levels.

The first is a Harris Tweed cape with a plush faux fur lining. The next piece is made with flannel wool and a satin lining, perfect for Superman stunting while keeping Americana on one hunna. Because it's Mark McNairy, there's a camo option with blurred-out graphics and a sporty yellow mesh lining for breathability and pure why-the-fuck-not. And finally, when Killa's on his stealth-Batman shit trynna sneak in without Juju waking up, there's a black wool cape with a black quited lining. And every piece has Diplomats laced up the inner sides and either Dipset USA or Diplomats printed on the back, just in case you weren't aware that it was Cam'ron who just slumped your cape-less 'fit with his superhero swag.

You laughed when Cam started rocking head-to-toe pink. But pretty soon he had all of NYC rocking the hue. Now he's fully head-to-toe with a single garment, so you might as well quit your laughing now and get to caping if you fall on the co-sign side of what's the polarizing Killa Cape Season. As Cam himself put it, "Hate Now, Cape Later."
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There was so much buzz on various boards after Pitti about capes and how awesome they were and how everyone wanted one. Horrendous.

Although with all the polar vortex stuff going on, perhaps very functional.
 
How much #menswear do you guys see on the streets normally?

I see quite a bit, but I can't tell if the people are being mensweary or Korean.
 
Not a ton here, tbh, but almost positive that will change after I get into my career rather than just wrapping up school.

Or, who knows. It could get worse.
 
Chorn said:
How much #menswear do you guys see on the streets normally?
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Russell Street said:
I only have to suffer men in tight red pants, teeny blazers buttoned at the sternum, and pocket squares at full bloom on my computer screen and not in real life.
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I did once see a guy in red pants and brown tonal spectator shoes, but being a suburbanite I am largely spared from the fashionista types.
 
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