The bullshit that is Luca Rubinacci

TheUntermensch said:
I quite enjoy Rubinacci's videos. That whole "Hello heveryone!", "blue bledzer", the hands pointing out the different items, the Alpha Male locations, the coils of manbracelets, his ear-to-ear grin, the final "Ciao!" I think he does it on purpose. It's good marketing, whatever it is.

Crompton takes another approach to man-marketing ('manketing'?): the untouchable snob. His message is simple: this is my world and it is unattainable to you.

I would like to put them all in petri dish and study them under a microscope.
Click to expand...

He does appear to be getting more camp and effervescent in his videos. At least he's entertaining, as for Crompton for an Englishman he does a good job of pretending to be Italian. There's rearely anything he wears that you could say was an English cut.
 
Pimpernel Smith said:
He does appear to be getting more camp and effervescent in his videos. At least he's entertaining, as for Crompton for an Englishman he does a good job of pretending to be Italian. There's rearely anything he wears that you could say was an English cut.
Click to expand...

Yes I noticed it. He seems to hold a grudge against Savile Row, and went as far as suggesting that quality (not just design) on the Row is crap. Unless it's Anderson and Sheppard. Strange man, our Crompton. Is there something we should be told? This forum had a very effective grapevine at one point.

But back to the subject in question. This is verging on porn.

21911014_152141535376604_3461419198746460160_n.jpg
 
TheUntermensch said:
But back to the subject in question. This is verging on porn.

21911014_152141535376604_3461419198746460160_n.jpg
Click to expand...
I have no problem with porn (within the usual realms of appropriateness and decorum), but this is not acceptable whether it being straight/gay/latex/fetish, or whatever, it's over 18 stuff.

Therefore I move against you and with force.
 
TheUntermensch said:
Yes I noticed it. He seems to hold a grudge against Savile Row, and went as far as suggesting that quality (not just design) on the Row is crap. Unless it's Anderson and Sheppard. Strange man, our Crompton. Is there something we should be told? This forum had a very effective grapevine at one point.
Click to expand...

I guess they didn't dig, or have need for what he was selling?
 
TheUntermensch said:
Who knows? The current doxa among internet #influencers is that Neapolitan tailoring is the best in the world, and British tailoring is for seriously uncool people.
Click to expand...

The really cool amongst them, have already headed south young man and are now engaged in procurement and bigging-it-up strategies with Sicilian tailors. This is the last undiscovered Mediterranean sartorial school of peasant tailoring that was once known as the hessian sack look. Casual, ideal for all seasons and with just enough structure to look like you've been dressed by your Momma.
 
TheUntermensch said:
Who knows? The current doxa among internet #influencers is that Neapolitan tailoring is the best in the world, and British tailoring is for seriously uncool people.
Click to expand...

So you are implying doghouse doghouse is #uncool?
Well, for years now the Italians are bashing the British tailors for making armour like garments while praising the "morbidezza" of the Italian style, in particular the Neapolitan with the un-constructed shoulders and certain features hyped on various clothing forums.
Who cares if you are a midget with a fat ass and milk bottle shoulders, if it's Neapolitan it has to have that extended front dart and puffy sleeves.
I'd say the British tailors have an image problem and it doesn't help that they use those insanely boring fabrics.
What adds to the image of "stiffness" is the shape of the cut-away of the fronts below the lower closing button.
It literally looks too closed because it goes down in an almost straight line before it makes that slight curve into the hem line.
 
Scherensammler said:
I'd say the British tailors have an image problem and it doesn't help that they use those insanely boring fabrics.
What adds to the image of "stiffness" is the shape of the cut-away of the fronts below the lower closing button.
It literally looks too closed because it goes down in an almost straight line before it makes that slight curve into the hem line.
Click to expand...

The image problem is only one of perception and it only exists on the internet. Out in the real and physical world, English tailoring continues to cut its own swathe through the forest and is often emulated, particularly by Italians for home consumption.
 
Pimpernel Smith said:
The image problem is only one of perception and it only exists on the internet. Out in the real and physical world, English tailoring continues to cut its own swathe through the forest and is often emulated, particularly by Italians for home consumption.
Click to expand...

English tailors as much as you may want it, falls into the mid-range, but high quality. A canny buy. And I know diplomats who sport English tailors before other ranges. It says you cannot be bought.
 
ConchitaWurst said:
English tailors as much as you may want it, falls into the mid-range, but high quality. A canny buy. And I know diplomats who sport English tailors before other ranges. It says you cannot be bought.
Click to expand...

What about Dutch tailoring? Where does that fit in to the sartorial global village?
 
Scherensammler said:
So you are implying doghouse doghouse is #uncool?
Well, for years now the Italians are bashing the British tailors for making armour like garments while praising the "morbidezza" of the Italian style, in particular the Neapolitan with the un-constructed shoulders and certain features hyped on various clothing forums.
Who cares if you are a midget with a fat ass and milk bottle shoulders, if it's Neapolitan it has to have that extended front dart and puffy sleeves.
I'd say the British tailors have an image problem and it doesn't help that they use those insanely boring fabrics.
What adds to the image of "stiffness" is the shape of the cut-away of the fronts below the lower closing button.
It literally looks too closed because it goes down in an almost straight line before it makes that slight curve into the hem line.
Click to expand...

Who says English can't challenge Neapolitans? Savile Row extravaganza! Overarmoured suits with sprezz!

The past
téléchargement.webp


The present
Chittleborough-Morgan-JournalOfStyle-4.webp
 
Scherensammler said:
So you are implying doghouse doghouse is #uncool?
Well, for years now the Italians are bashing the British tailors for making armour like garments while praising the "morbidezza" of the Italian style, in particular the Neapolitan with the un-constructed shoulders and certain features hyped on various clothing forums.
Who cares if you are a midget with a fat ass and milk bottle shoulders, if it's Neapolitan it has to have that extended front dart and puffy sleeves.
I'd say the British tailors have an image problem and it doesn't help that they use those insanely boring fabrics.
What adds to the image of "stiffness" is the shape of the cut-away of the fronts below the lower closing button.
It literally looks too closed because it goes down in an almost straight line before it makes that slight curve into the hem line.
Click to expand...

If loving British tailoring is wrong, the I don't wanna be right.

MV5BMjE1NjcwOTY2NV5BMl5BanBnXkFtZTcwMTAyMDkwMw@@._V1_SY1000_CR0,0,502,1000_AL_.jpg
 
Jupiter said:
Who says English can't challenge Neapolitans? Savile Row extravaganza! Overarmoured suits with sprezz!

The past
View attachment 24998

The present
View attachment 24999
Click to expand...

Now then, they're bad examples and you know it.

Here's an example of what I would say is English casualness on an older chap, the photojournalist and war photographer, Don McCullin:

don.webp


AP_653780560191-630.webp


Don-McCullin-760x506.webp


532203826.webp


don-mccullin.webp


Zero stiffness there.

Now I'm going to post some examples of Dutch tailoring, but first I need to buy another fluorescent tie. The glow-in-the-dark effect only last for 18 months or so.
 
Last edited:
Pimpernel Smith said:
Now then, they're bad examples and you know it.

Here's an example of what I would say is English casualness on an older chap, the photojournalist and war photographer, Don McCullin:

View attachment 25003

View attachment 25004

View attachment 25005

View attachment 25006

View attachment 25008

Zero stiffness there.

Now I'm going to post some examples of Dutch tailoring, but first I need to buy another fluorescent tie. The glow-in-the-dark effect only last for 18 months or so.
Click to expand...

Of course. That was totally unfair. I don't dislike Steed work for example.
 
Thankfully the 1985 footballer with wet gel perm has been out of style for awhile now, but there's still a few stalwarts left in parts of Rotterdam. Then there's the freaks from Amsterdam who combine that with gold earrings so they look like some pirate on a 17th century galleon.

I think there's a number of traits in Dutch mens style, but essentially it is a hybrid of either Italian or English tailoring with added whimsy. Here is an example:

Capture.webp


The tie is somewhat bright and almost garrish by English standards.

Based on the Randstad i.e. Amsterdam, The Hague and Rotterdam, the biggest influencer as I can see is Suitsupply, ill-fitting business suits with names such as Napoli, jackets called Havana and such like. Cheap and nasty, made in China, but the company is Dutch. On the school run you see lots of younger dads in their suits, you can tell because everything is too short and tight, they also never sport ties. Men who get their suits here also tend to go for the scuffed and pointy tan shoe look and this look is everywhere in the Randstad.

There's no equivalent of the Row or city-wide school of tailoring as you have in Italy here. What you do get are lots of small tailors, many of which seem to be new start-ups in the last ten years. Then you have some old firms Eduard Pelger which is still family owned and has been around since 1860, this use to be where the politicians of The Netherlands purchased their suits, but not now apparently and are struggling. In The Hague you also have F.G. van den Heuvel established in 1882 which was family owned, but recently has been taken over by a group of four shareholders and I am not sure how many are left, one is a surgeon and I think the owners are all gentleman amateurs. But I think they own the building they are in, so no rent to worry about.

Then you have newer contemporary players which offer a mix bag of RTW and MTM: Oger, Scotch & Soda, Suits for Dudes, et al some of these I would class as attempts at haute couture. Oger has changed tact somewhat and are now pushing their MTM stuff to encroach on Suitsupply territory, if those who work in their stores are anything to go by, it will be dreadful cod-Italian stuff. There's also The Society Shop, which is a more upmarket Suitsupply and seems to be doing well.

You also have some Persian shirtmakers and places selling Brioni at suitably inflated prices.

The older outfitters (Pelger and F.G. van den Heuvel) are very much in the English style and are popular with older Dutch gentlemen and expats. Pelger I would say is the equivalent of the old Austin Reed in the UK before they went down market. F.G. is intriguing as they have some amazingly bright ties, some rep ties with fluorescent bands in them. I'll try and post some photos later of examples. Sounds garish, but actually it works. Very different to English ties in this respect, I think this is a Dutch thing, but in saying that, as elsewhere, ties have long since been discarded.

So there are good options here, but you have to seek them out in amongst the dross of cod-Italian Chinese made rubbish.
 
Last edited:
Pimpernel Smith said:
Thankfully the 1985 footballer with wet gel perm has been out of style for awhile now, but there's still a few stalwarts left in parts of Rotterdam. Then there's the freaks from Amsterdam who combine that with gold earrings so they look like some pirate on a 17th century galleon.

I think there's a number of traits in Dutch mens style, but essentially it is a hybrid of either Italian or English tailoring with added whimsy. Here is an example:

View attachment 25016

The tie is somewhat bright and almost garrish by English standards.

Based on the Randstad i.e. Amsterdam, The Hague and Rotterdam, the biggest influencer as I can see is Suitsupply, ill-fitting business suits with names such as Napoli, jackets called Havana and such like. Cheap and nasty, made in China, but the company is Dutch. On the school run you see lots of younger dads in their suits, you can tell because everything is too short and tight, they also never sport ties. Men who get their suits here also tend to go for the scuffed and pointy tan shoe look and this look is everywhere in the Randstad.

There's no equivalent of the Row or city-wide school of tailoring as you have in Italy here. What you do get are lots of small tailors, many of which seem to be new start-ups in the last ten years. Then you have some old firms Eduard Pelger which is still family owned and has been around since 1860, this use to be where the politicians of The Netherlands purchased their suits, but not now apparently and are struggling. In The Hague you also have F.G. van den Heuvel established in 1882 which was family owned, but recently has been taken over by a group of four shareholders and I am not sure how many are left, one is a surgeon and I think the owners are all gentleman amateurs. But I think they own the building they are in, so no rent to worry about.

Then you have newer contemporary players which offer a mix bag of RTW and MTM: Oger, Scotch & Soda, Suits for Dudes, et al some of these I would class as attempts at haute couture. Oger has changed tact somewhat and are now pushing their MTM stuff to encroach on Suitsupply territory, if those who work in their stores are anything to go by, it will be dreadful cod-Italian stuff. There's also The Society Shop, which is a more upmarket Suitsupply and seems to be doing well.

You also have some Persian shirtmakers and places selling Brioni at suitably inflated prices.

The older outfitters (Pelger and F.G. van den Heuvel) are very much in the English style and are popular with older Dutch gentlemen and expats. Pelger I would say is the equivalent of the old Austin Reed in the UK before they went down market. F.G. is intriguing as they have some amazingly bright ties, some rep ties with fluorescent bands in them. I'll try and post some photos later of examples. Sounds garish, but actually it works. Very different to English ties in this respect, I think this is a Dutch thing, but in saying that, as elsewhere, ties have long since been discarded.

So there are good options here, but you have to seek them out in amongst the dross of cod-Italian Chinese made rubbish.
Click to expand...

How about shoppes like
Oger
BOTH
And frans boone?
 
CesareRomiti said:
How about shoppes like
Oger
BOTH
And frans boone?
Click to expand...

Oger was okay in the 2000's, good wide range, but was just brands. Don't really rate the new incarnation, I wouldn't trust them to make a suit or jacket. The shops smell nice though. If I'm going to get something made up, I might try one of the new smaller outfits. Possibly, Vanita on Denneweg in The Hague. Decent enough sort and he's done some good jackets.

BOTH: dunno' never heard of them.

Frans Boone were a good source of Alden crepe soles and Incotex awhile back. But they embraced the full-on boys and super slim fits in trousers and chinos a couple of years ago and haven't bothered with them since. Lots of high fashion stuff as well that's really for the fashionista crowd.
 
Pimpernel Smith said:
Oger was okay in the 2000's, good wide range, but was just brands. Don't really rate the new incarnation, I wouldn't trust them to make a suit or jacket. The shops smell nice though. If I'm going to get something made up, I might try one of the new smaller outfits. Possibly, Vanita on Denneweg in The Hague. Decent enough sort and he's done some good jackets.

BOTH: dunno' never heard of them.

Frans Boone were a good source of Alden crepe soles and Incotex awhile back. But they embraced the full-on boys and super slim fits in trousers and chinos a couple of years ago and haven't bothered with them since. Lots of high fashion stuff as well that's really for the fashionista crowd.
Click to expand...

Perhaps you are familiar with Oger in a professional capacity as an oil and gas man?

20125AF4-F3FD-458A-8A9A-094C67EBCFDC.webp


1AFE2304-7F6D-46BD-92A7-F314B286CD0D.webp

D5495EC3-F6F3-4E2B-A519-0A17A40FFA17.webp
 
FriendCustomer said:
Perhaps you are familiar with Oger in a professional capacity as an oil and gas man?
Click to expand...

No, never heard of them and as they're in The Kingdom, I wouldn't be interested. If one does business in these places it is inevitable you'll end up having to visit there. You don't want to end up as being known as that chap we can send to Riyadh for an extended period. I leave the Arabian peninsula for the Indians and T.E. Lawrence types.

The rules of the game are simple: don't do deserts, jungles or go offshore.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)
Back
Top Bottom