The iGent's Guide to the Galaxy

FriendCustomer said:
:ahahahaha:
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This forum is plenty of bored lumpen proletarians, as this guy who quotes me.

Just a few of us are from the high burgueise. The rest a few low class trolls.
teacha.gif
 
ConchitaWurst said:
This is a Pirozzi's coat for a suit of Mr WeakMonday WeakMonday . When is well guided Pirozzi is a very versatile and skilful tailor. Note how much is clean and sharp this coat. Unfortunately many pictures of Pirozzi's work depict garish things like the horse blanket of Gianni. But the cut of Pirozzi is very remarkable;he is one of few Neapolitan tailors remained of the true Neapolitan structurate school.
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An interesting thing is that Gennaro Paone was trained by Schiraldi,and Schiraldi was a exponent of structurate Neapolitan school.
 
fxh said:
but I don't really approve of casual suits in Double Breasted
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Double breasted is a style very popular in Italy for bespoke and in a high profile wardrobe.

Are many reasons:

For the first is a type of coat that in Italy is associate with upper class (finance,aristocracy,professionals,landowners).

Second reason is a type of coat that can work only bespoke,cut by a good tailor ; are not middle ground,or is wonderfull or is horrible

(and ready to wear double breasted are often horribles).



So a beautifull double breasted is a message "i belong (or I would like to belong) to upper class/old money.



More, a double breasted suit well cut is a pleasure; "VESTE LA FIGURA",as we said in Italy ("dress the figure").
 
Thruth said:
I like it, the ghost posts
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I love this thread. Even though I also follow the pertinent Tumblr-blogs, this is more interesting due to actual discussion.



Now, has anyone found out yet who the Brachetti Peretti family tailor is?
 
If the jacket didn't have checks the middle of the skirt (what's the proper term for this?) could be taken in to flatten it. Alternatively you can see the hypotenuse of the skirt sides are angled quite dramatically which increases the width of the bottom hem in proportion to where the skirt begins below the waist, causing the structural collapse.

All in all this is a better job than Reeves but a notch below Rubinacci (shoulders notwithstanding).

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ElioDA said:
I love this thread. Even though I also follow the pertinent Tumblr-blogs, this is more interesting due to actual discussion.



Now, has anyone found out yet who the Brachetti Peretti family tailor is?
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start writing femili taylor qnd you are one step closer to finding out
 
LelandJ said:
If the jacket didn't have checks the middle of the skirt (what's the proper term for this?) could be taken in to flatten it. Alternatively you can see the hypotenuse of the skirt sides are angled quite dramatically which increases the width of the bottom hem in proportion to where the skirt begins below the waist, causing the structural collapse.

All in all this is a better job than Reeves but a notch below Rubinacci (shoulders notwithstanding).

1-png.9929
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What the fuck are you talking about. You can't even determine your shoe size. Now your explaining how to alter fucking bespoke coats. Olololololo
 
LelandJ said:
If the jacket didn't have checks the middle of the skirt (what's the proper term for this?) could be taken in to flatten it. Alternatively you can see the hypotenuse of the skirt sides are angled quite dramatically which increases the width of the bottom hem in proportion to where the skirt begins below the waist, causing the structural collapse.

All in all this is a better job than Reeves but a notch below Rubinacci (shoulders notwithstanding).

1-png.9929
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next level suit science. thanks for the lolz
 
LelandJ said:
Japanese are geometry wizards, be quiet and learn.
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Maybe that tailor should hire AZNs to sort his geometry out.
One problem with the back here is that the checks at armholes/ side seams and centre back are not level across the back. The checks are higher at the centre back than at the sides. This is often caused by taking in the CB seam too much below the waist.
This kind of tilts the top part of the back and causes the checks to be lower at the sides, since the angle changes.
The strong waist suppression doesn't help either, since that changes the back balance.
To get rid of the puckers along the left side seam and the flare at the left bottom you just have to let out the centre back seam below the waist. That will make the back swing outwards, reducing the suppression effect.
 
WOW didn't even look at the puckering on the left waist but guess chalked it up to walking rather than standing posture. What's really strange is the horizontal checks are aligned at the CB until you get to the skirt, third row up, then down they are off what appears to be .5 cm.

Weakmonday should probably go back to Pirozzi for a fix, of course he could've listened to Sarto from the get go but then we wouldn't have such 'interesting' bespoke to see and be stuck with porno SVB dailies.
 
Old school German tailors have a trick to deal with the check alignment issue, but I won't tell. JAJAJAJAJA!
The key word is "Armlochschluss"!
 
WeakMonday said:
Yea my pocket square collection is pretty bad... I will hopefully find some good ones next time I am in Italy.
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Getting this topic back on track. Boys where do you shop for pochettes when in Italy?

I pretty much only wear white linen or cotton, or colorful silks. nothing else. don't really like colored linen, cotton or wool, even colored edges bother me. But will make exceptions during summer months.

My favorites are from Charvet. Also have nice ones from Jungmann Wilhelm & Neffe, Rubinacci and Drakes.

But where in Italy? I guess the usual suspects : Marinella, Battistoni, Cappelli, Rubinacci, M.cilento e F.llo, that tie your tie place .

Please tell me about your eyetalian dandy pocket thirsts and good italian menswear accessories shops .
 
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FriendCustomer said:
Getting this topic back on track. Boys where do you shop for pochettes when in Italy?

I pretty much only wear white line or cotton, or colorful silks. nothing else. don't really like colored linen, cotton or wool, even colored edges bother me. But will make exceptions during summer months.

My favorites are from Charvet. Also have nice ones from Jungmann Wilhelm & Neffe, Rubinacci and Drakes.

But where in Italy? I guess the usual suspects : Marinella, Battistoni, Cappelli, Rubinacci, M.cilento e F.llo, that tie your tie place .

Please tell me about your eyetalian dandy pocket thirsts and good italian menswear accessories shops .
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I exclusively buy from the Jockey ragazzo.
 
FriendCustomer said:
Getting this topic back on track. Boys where do you shop for pochettes when in Italy?

I pretty much only wear white linen or cotton, or colorful silks. nothing else. don't really like colored linen, cotton or wool, even colored edges bother me. But will make exceptions during summer months.

My favorites are from Charvet. Also have nice ones from Jungmann Wilhelm & Neffe, Rubinacci and Drakes.

But where in Italy? I guess the usual suspects : Marinella, Battistoni, Cappelli, Rubinacci, M.cilento e F.llo, that tie your tie place .

Please tell me about your eyetalian dandy pocket thirsts and good italian menswear accessories shops .
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got several rubinaccis (shame on me... but i can say that i bought all of them before luca became SO prominent...)

drakes is nice too
and i got several cappelli linen numbers

regarding italian accessory shops... usually it is best to walk and around and to look into those beautiful shops. not ready to name any names right now....
 
exquisite trimmings (is English I know and a shop but he sells Rubinacci, tie your tie and Liverano)

I haven't bought any italian but I bought from his own collection and from drakes, the guy is a pleasure to work with.
 
FriendCustomer said:
when will you be ready??? we are waiting.
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i am ready when in italy
then i walk around
drink a lot
buy things
wake up - happy to have them
no memories how shoppe is called
no receipt either - tax improvement

NOT OF HELP FOR YOU TODAY
S-R-Y
 
robertito said:
exquisite trimmings (is English I know and a shop but he sells Rubinacci, tie your tie and Liverano)

I haven't bought any italian but I bought from his own collection and from drakes, the guy is a pleasure to work with.
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Hasidic trimmings. Olololololo.

I want to know mystery eyetalian inglese shoppes; not igent pitti shops that I already frequent.
 
FriendCustomer said:
They don't charge, they rape. Are you gay azn? I thought gay spic?
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do they have different rates for azn, americanos or trolls? I guess you may get a discount if you are the three things at once like dieworkwear.

No, I want to know because they have given me a figure in one of their visits out of Europe and I think 1) they took the mickey out of me, 2) they thought I was one of the 3 above.
 
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robertito said:
do they have different rates for azn, americanos or trolls? I guess you may get a discount if you are the three things at once like dieworkwear.

No, I want to know because they have given me a figure in one of their visits out of Europe and I think 1) they were took the mickey out of me, 2) they thought I was one of the 3 above.
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and BOMBER FRATELLOS!
and esspannish real values socialist non-cowboy MEN
 
No idea about mystery Eye-talians. I like to buy on the internet so I don't have to deal with greasy salesmen. Especially on Napole, thieves do not restrict their activities to the fish market, but work also in handkerchief shops. Thinking about buying this from Eton today:

A0001893627_1.jpg

http://www.etonshirts.com/uk/navy-paisley-pocket-square-wool-1

Have to go to London later this month so might just wait until then though.
 
Algernon Crisp said:
No idea about mystery Eye-talians. I like to buy on the internet so I don't have to deal with greasy salesmen. Especially on Napole, thieves do not restrict their activities to the fish market, but work also in handkerchief shops. Thinking about buying this from Eton today:

A0001893627_1.jpg

http://www.etonshirts.com/uk/navy-paisley-pocket-square-wool-1

Have to go to London later this month so might just wait until then though.
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What are you going to wear that with? It'll look bad with both navy and grey suits.
 
robertito said:
btw does anyone know, how much CHIAIA Napoli charges if you visit him in Naples?
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serious response, if you really want the Chiaia (or Sciamat or Mararo or santo barilla or antica sartorial Leonardi) shoulder treatment (puffy roping with pleats, but not sure why you would want this) you should really go to the teacher Pirrozzi. the others are not real real sartos. he's also probably cheaper, the others are just scam artists doing mtm or rtw for arabs, russians and chinamen.
 
Monkeyface said:
What are you going to wear that with? It'll look bad with both navy and grey suits.
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I tend to just wear white with suits.

Was thinking of a brown tweed giacca sporting. Possibly also a grey tweed jacket. Not sure really.

EDIT:

I'm getting the grey on Saturday, so I'll post pics of both then.
 
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FriendCustomer said:
serious response, if you really want the Chiaia (or Sciamat or Mararo or santo barilla or antica sartorial Leonardi) shoulder treatment (puffy roping with pleats, but not sure why you would want this) you should really go to the teacher Pirrozzi. the others are not real real sartos. he's also probably cheaper, the others are just scam artists doing mtm or rtw for arabs, russians and chinamen.
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none of them ever seen in moscow

the only eyetalian taylorze that i know have been here:

andrea luparelli - sartoria ripense
la vera sartoria napoletana
giuseppe ramundo AKA geppino da galatone
antica sartoria leonardi
some guy called franco
gaetano aloisio
 
LKP said:
none of them ever seen in moscow

the only eyetalian taylorze that i know have been here:

andrea luparelli - sartoria ripense
la vera sartoria napoletana
giuseppe ramundo AKA geppino da galatone
antica sartoria leonardi
some guy called franco
gaetano aloisio
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are you blind, leornardi is on my list.
 
LKP said:
none of them ever seen in moscow

the only eyetalian taylorze that i know have been here:

andrea luparelli - sartoria ripense
la vera sartoria napoletana
giuseppe ramundo AKA geppino da galatone
antica sartoria leonardi
some guy called franco
gaetano aloisio
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What is quality of gelato di geppetto?
 
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