Why wear a suit?

[Ambrosius08]

Still difficult to equate in the current time.

I'm well aware of the importance of Brummel in mens clothing, don't see however the need/suitability to relate to such a remote model.

It's about coordinating the colours & textures and keeping the outfit simple, so that no single element is sticking out too much. Brummel used to take up to 6 hours in the morning to get dressed, but still was considered effortlessly stylish.

The Japanese call it shibui - making meticulously planned-out and arduous things look like they happened naturally or without trying at all.

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

It isn't what he is wearing, it is the execution of it.

That is the whole point.

 

[Panama]

I find it bizarre how complex everything became in later years, with morning dress, white and black tie, changing for dinner etc.

 

[Sauce]

So, if we say that the Pitti Boys are the fops of today who would we call the Brummels?

 

[fxh]

Brummel is too far away in the time to be an actual parameter for nowadays style.

View attachment 39981

The equivalent would be medium grey trousers well fitted, blue OCBD, Navy Jacket, dark brown shoes/loafers tassled even.

 

[florisgreen]

The equivalent would be medium grey trousers well fitted, blue OCBD, Navy Jacket, dark brown shoes/loafers tassled even.

Such equations are rather subjective in my opinion and even if correct, would you always dress that way?

By the way what does stand OCBD for? I always have problems with these acronyms.

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

The equivalent would be medium grey trousers well fitted, blue OCBD, Navy Jacket, dark brown shoes/loafers tassled even.

You are describing Sammy Ambrose there and not Beau Brummel. He was not a fop, but he was a dandy. Wasn't he?

 

[fxh]

You are describing Sammy Ambrose there and not Beau Brummel. He was not a fop, but he was a dandy. Wasn't he?

Sammy - Beau - clearly equivalent

 

[fxh]

Such equations are rather subjective in my opinion and even if correct, would you always dress that way?

By the way what does stand OCBD for? I always have problems with these acronyms.

Well - your opinion is subjective!

Seriously

The Beau was revolutionary/influential - because he was clean and washed himself and his clothes - unusual for the time -he dressed simply for the times and consistently and paid attention to fit . I would argue the outfit I described is almost exactly the equivalent of what the Beau sported . I wouldn't always dress that way - but one could easily - say well cut chinos, shoes or desert boots , OCBD with jacket or Harrington or cardigan or even (shudder) hoodie for different occasions and be well dressed not overdressed or underdressed.

OCDB - Oxford Cloth Button Down - button referring to the collar NOT just any shirt with butting down front

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

Sammy - Beau - clearly equivalent

Haha. Brilliant.

 

[florisgreen]

Well - your opinion is subjective!

Of course my opinion is subjective, just as yours is.

 

[fxh]

Of course my opinion is subjective, just as yours is.

Small joke. I'm Australian.

 

[CodPiece]

I loved the 80's when, as a 20 year old working at a hotel, I had to wear suits or a tux. Sharp lines, crisp creases, a contrast collar shirt, silk tie and collar stay, I felt like I was on top of the world.

Now, it's business casual or "software industry slovenly". If I wear a collared shirt on a Zoom call, I'm dressed up.

Holy cow, I would love to go back to those days.

 

[florisgreen]

I think that such a strong, solid colour is highly unsuitable for a suit. Even for a flamboyant, ostentatious style like Hugo Jacomet's one.

 

[florisgreen]

This suit sported at Wimbledon by Tom Cruise looks really cheap to me.

 

[fxh]

I think that such a strong, solid colour is highly unsuitable for a suit. Even for a flamboyant, ostentatious style like Hugo Jacomet's one.

View attachment 40068

That sort of colour in a suit looks great on stage in a band etc. Not with that tie though.

 

[Dropbear]

This suit sported at Wimbledon by Tom Cruise looks really cheap to me.

View attachment 40071View attachment 40072

Good hair for a sixty year old.

 

[florisgreen]

Good hair for a sixty year old.

Not only his hair looks good, but his suit denotes poor workmanship.

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

I loved the 80's when, as a 20 year old working at a hotel, I had to wear suits or a tux. Sharp lines, crisp creases, a contrast collar shirt, silk tie and collar stay, I felt like I was on top of the world.

Now, it's business casual or "software industry slovenly". If I wear a collared shirt on a Zoom call, I'm dressed up.

Holy cow, I would love to go back to those days.

I caught the backend of the 80s as a young man and it was a special time for going out as people still dressed to impress and there was a vibe with bold silhouettes and whichever line you stood on for or against Reagan/Thatcher the common culture in films and music was sure of its self. People still went out a lot, by the mid-1990s, video culture and the expense of going out had changed everything. You couldn't go to a pub mid-week and see it packed. It changed within a couple of years.

I think that such a strong, solid colour is highly unsuitable for a suit. Even for a flamboyant, ostentatious style like Hugo Jacomet's one.

View attachment 40068

Red sports jackets can sometimes work, especially if you're working on a holiday camp as an compere, but a suit is a one-off affair.

This suit sported at Wimbledon by Tom Cruise looks really cheap to me.

View attachment 40071View attachment 40072

My kids tell me he's botoxed-up now and his face looks artificial

 

[florisgreen]

My kids tell me he's botoxed-up now and his face looks artificial

Wouldn't be too much surprised.

 

[Otto]

This suit sported at Wimbledon by Tom Cruise looks really cheap to me.

View attachment 40071View attachment 40072

I don't like that shade of blue, but I don't see what's wrong with these apart from that. Sleeves maybe a tad long.

 

[florisgreen]

I don't like that shade of blue, but I don't see what's wrong with these apart from that. Sleeves maybe a tad long.

The fit is quite decent, even though I would make the jacket more waist-tight. As you say, the sleeves are (not only a tad) too long, the lapel is too narrow and the notch with the collar looks odd (collar and lapel are like-spread), as well as the slanted besom pockets.
It gives me an overall impression of poor workmanship, like something you'd buy in a (cheap) store.

 

[florisgreen]

Red sports jackets can sometimes work, especially if you're working on a holiday camp as an compere, but a suit is a one-off affair.

That red, mixed in a (chequered) pattern with muted colours like grey, beige and brown, could provide a pleasant colour accent, but as a solid colour in a suit it's too flashy and unpleasant in my eyes.

The right way:

 

[belinmad]

That red, mixed in a (chequered) pattern with muted colours like grey, beige and brown, could provide a pleasant colour accent, but as a solid colour in a suit it's too flashy and unpleasant in my eyes.

The right way:

View attachment 40112

This is Fox’s/Hranek’s Negroni Tweed, isn’t it? It makes up quite horribly, actually. I don’t think I’ve seen one jacket made with it I truly like.

 

[florisgreen]

This is Fox’s/Hranek’s Negroni Tweed, isn’t it? It makes up quite horribly, actually. I don’t think I’ve seen one jacket made with it I truly like.

View attachment 40130
View attachment 40131
View attachment 40133View attachment 40132

It's a lightly different cloth, but very similar. I actually like the Negroni fabric

Very nice look in my eyes.

 

[belinmad]

It's a lightly different cloth, but very similar. I actually like the Negroni fabric.

You’d wear it?

 

[florisgreen]

You’d wear it?

Yes.

 

[Sauce]

I've toyed with the idea of a plum colour cord suit the last 18 months or so. I like the idea of it, rich colour for fall and winter.

 

[Otto]

The fit is quite decent, even though I would make the jacket more waist-tight. As you say, the sleeves are (not only a tad) too long, the lapel is too narrow and the notch with the collar looks odd (collar and lapel are like-spread), as well as the slanted besom pockets.
It gives me an overall impression of poor workmanship, like something you'd buy in a (cheap) store.

Well, that's close to what I can buy atm.

 

[robertito]

I read once that Cruise used to wear Gucci, but I am not sure what brand he is wearing on that pic.

 

[Lumpen]

Good hair for a sixty year old.

seems fake

 

[Lumpen]

to smoke