Ask A Quick Question

Journeyman

Well-Known Member
Supporter
Messages
2,927
Ratings
3,172
What's the verdict on this defect on a shirt of mine, a flaw in the broadcloth, or has this caught on a sharp coat hanger or some other self inflicted event:
View attachment 30100

Really? That doesn't look like a flaw to me - it looks like someone's used a sewing machine to stitch up a tear in the cloth.

P.Smith - Was the shirt like that when you purchased it?
 

Pimpernel Smith

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,100
Ratings
1,602
Really? That doesn't look like a flaw to me - it looks like someone's used a sewing machine to stitch up a tear in the cloth.

P.Smith - Was the shirt like that when you purchased it?
I've worn the shirt twice, which means after the first wash the mother-in-law, who does my ironing would have spotted it. So I don't think it was there when bought, but I certainly haven't caught it on anything.
 

Journeyman

Well-Known Member
Supporter
Messages
2,927
Ratings
3,172
How many buttons should there typically be on a dress shirt's cuff? For a jacket's?
Most dress shirts will have one or two buttons on each cuff. A few will have three, but I tend to think that makes the cuff look too busy and it also makes it longer, too.

Most jackets will have four buttons. However, some older jackets will only have one, or two buttons and there are some brands (or some people who have had jackets made to order) that have imitated that look and only put one or two buttons on each sleeve.
 
Messages
13
Ratings
2
Thanks. Is there a point to side tabs (or "side adjusters" / "button tabs") when you've already got suspenders/braces? Or do most tailors make trousers with side tabs + suspenders when the client wants to use suspenders?

...Thoughts on pick stitching?...
 
Last edited:

FriendCustomer

Awful Tie Aficionado
Messages
2,270
Ratings
9,541
Thanks. Is there a point to side tabs (or "side adjusters" / "button tabs") when you've already got suspenders/braces? Or do most tailors make trousers with side tabs + suspenders when the client wants to use suspenders?

...Thoughts on pick stitching?...
when i've gotten suspender buttons, i have also always gotten side adjusters. If the pants are not specially cut for suspenders (fish tail back trousers) , having the side adjusters give you the option of using supenders are not. With fishtail back trousers you have to wear suspenders so the additional waist adjustment is pretty unecessary but i like it.

well done, discrete pick stitching is barely noticable and therefore pretty much fine on anything i think. more prominent pick stiching or double pick stitching should probably be limited to sport coats.
 

Jupiter

Well-Known Member
Messages
832
Ratings
1,893
when i've gotten suspender buttons, i have also always gotten side adjusters. If the pants are not specially cut for suspenders (fish tail back trousers) , having the side adjusters give you the option of using supenders are not. With fishtail back trousers you have to wear suspenders so the additional waist adjustment is pretty unecessary but i like it.

well done, discrete pick stitching is barely noticable and therefore pretty much fine on anything i think. more prominent pick stiching or double pick stitching should probably be limited to sport coats.
Please post your worn Sportsechs stuff.
 
Messages
13
Ratings
2
So I'm building my beginner attorney wardrobe. I'll be in the courtroom often. I'm trying to drum up fabric (tissue?) ideas... Is there a general list anywhere of good fabrics for XYZ season?
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
Moderator
Messages
19,011
Ratings
23,871
So I'm building my beginner attorney wardrobe. I'll be in the courtroom often. I'm trying to drum up fabric (tissue?) ideas... Is there a general list anywhere of good fabrics for XYZ season?
you can start reading here for ideas.

http://www.dressedwell.net/threads/the-touch-the-tissue-thread-tm.2064/

More info would help provide answers.

  1. are you buying RTW or doing MTM and have a choice of fabrics?
  2. budget per suit or for tissue f you are doing mTM or CMT
If you are buying RTW or doing MTM the available tissue will depend on brand. Finding something that fits you is the first aim.

Starting out you want to focus on the solid fabrics (aesthetics + wearability) so quality super 100s-120s plain worsteds in solid navy/blue and grey. Alternatively, solid navy/blue and grey tissues in the same range with subtle surface texture (eg. herringbone, birdseye). Depending on climate, flannels for fall/winter. I'd also say flannels for chalk stripes and not worsteds for pinstripes.

Provide the answers to the questions above and we can tell you more.
 
Messages
13
Ratings
2
you can start reading here for ideas.

http://www.dressedwell.net/threads/the-touch-the-tissue-thread-tm.2064/

More info would help provide answers.

  1. are you buying RTW or doing MTM and have a choice of fabrics?
  2. budget per suit or for tissue f you are doing mTM or CMT
If you are buying RTW or doing MTM the available tissue will depend on brand. Finding something that fits you is the first aim.

Starting out you want to focus on the solid fabrics (aesthetics + wearability) so quality super 100s-120s plain worsteds in solid navy/blue and grey. Alternatively, solid navy/blue and grey tissues in the same range with subtle surface texture (eg. herringbone, birdseye). Depending on climate, flannels for fall/winter. I'd also say flannels for chalk stripes and not worsteds for pinstripes.

Provide the answers to the questions above and we can tell you more.
So I have two suits already RTW. One from SuitSupply (dark navy), and then this Attolini one (brown). I have no idea what the SuitSupply one is, but I know the Attolini one is silk. Got them for interviews/internships/formal events/jobs/etc.

I live in D.C. The weather varies. Most of the time it's cool/cold. Summers are warm and humid, although it gets better later in the day.

I've earmarked a budget of 15k USD (after taking care of Adult Life Things). I've considered contacting a travelling British tailor.

My only concern is buying something luxury but overpaying for certain things like fabric?

What makes something "luxury" in the fabric world?

I've read articles about diminishing returns of worsted wool supers, but, like, besides rarity... how do you know that the fabric is "worth it"?

Do the mills matter much? EX: VBC vs. Scabal? Would a tailor guide you through appropriate fabrics?
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
Moderator
Messages
19,011
Ratings
23,871
So I have two suits already RTW. One from SuitSupply (dark navy), and then this Attolini one (brown). I have no idea what the SuitSupply one is, but I know the Attolini one is silk. Got them for interviews/internships/formal events/jobs/etc.

I live in D.C. The weather varies. Most of the time it's cool/cold. Summers are warm and humid, although it gets better later in the day.

I've earmarked a budget of 15k USD (after taking care of Adult Life Things). I've considered contacting a travelling British tailor.

My only concern is buying something luxury but overpaying for certain things like fabric?

What makes something "luxury" in the fabric world?

I've read articles about diminishing returns of worsted wool supers, but, like, besides rarity... how do you know that the fabric is "worth it"?

Do the mills matter much? EX: VBC vs. Scabal? Would a tailor guide you through appropriate fabrics?
If you are dealing with a reputable traveling U.K. tailor, you are not going to be worried about being ripped off on the fabric. Most Savile Row suits are not gold and diamond encrusted encrusted either. They are in the regular books. You can generally trust their choices when you tell gem what you are looking for.

Ask doghouse doghouse

As for choosing your fabric, it is the super 150s and up where you have to ask yourself what you are wanting. Lost on me as I prefer heavier cloth.

You have kind of answered your question about fabrics with your SS vs your Attolini suit. SS has to keep their price down which is why you will see them use fabrics from mid-tier mills.

With the Attolini, you are paying for exclusivity, name, handwork. Quality fabric is part of the deal.

Do you like your silk suit?

With cloth you are looking at weight of the tissue in addition to how fine the yarn (that is the super 1xxs, super 2xxs is about).

You can have two tissues in the same super 120s and they will differ in sheep to suit quality.

Lumb's Golden Bale is super 100 or super 120 (Millionaire by Taylor & Lodge is Super 150) but it will blow VBC to smithereens. It varies in weight from 7.5 ounces to 13 ounces.

I'd also ask Scherensammler Scherensammler to comment on the set points that dictate the differences in fabric quality.

Tailors have preferences and just because it is a luxury cloth their experience in making a suit with it forms their opinion of it.

Reputable merchants & mills like Scabal, Holland and Sherry, Lessers etc all have expensive fabric and even more expensive luxury fabrics but not all of them are equally good. You get quality across the board but not every one is the best of the best.

At some point you are really getting into the weeds because it does become a search for interesting fabric but only if you have a tailor to do CMT with.

With your budget, a reputable UK tailor you are not going to suffer for fabric choices to suit your needs and the tailor will guide you through the process.

It is only igent that pooh-pooh HS and Scabal in favour of other trendy or sexy cloth.
 

fxh

OG Party Suit Wearer
Supporter
Messages
5,773
Ratings
5,671
So I have two suits already RTW. One from SuitSupply (dark navy), and then this Attolini one (brown). I have no idea what the SuitSupply one is, but I know the Attolini one is silk. Got them for interviews/internships/formal events/jobs/etc.
I live in D.C. The weather varies. Most of the time it's cool/cold. Summers are warm and humid, although it gets better later in the day.
I've earmarked a budget of 15k USD (after taking care of Adult Life Things). I've considered contacting a travelling British tailor.
My only concern is buying something luxury but overpaying for certain things like fabric?
What makes something "luxury" in the fabric world?
I've read articles about diminishing returns of worsted wool supers, but, like, besides rarity... how do you know that the fabric is "worth it"?
Do the mills matter much? EX: VBC vs. Scabal? Would a tailor guide you through appropriate fabrics?
I wouldn't particularly disagree with old Thruth Thruth but perhaps suggest a slightly different approach. All of this depends on your financial situation - eg if you are a trust fund kid and don't have to earn your own money - like The Foo and many others on SF - then go for it....

I assume that an attorney is what we would call a Criminal Lawyer? admitted to the bar and not a tax lawyer etc?

I'd suggest staying away from bespoke and MTM for at least a year of wearing a suit most days. You won't really know what works for you or looks good or is appropriate for you work colleagues, courts and clients. Buying RTW/OTR will minimise any mistakes and also minimise costs. Things can - and do - and will- go horribly wrong with bespoke or MTM - and the mistakes are expensive. Of course if you are an odd body shape then MTM may be the only real option.

I hear good things about SuitSupply - especially if you know what you re doing. I have seen a few people I know who have SS and they look more than OK. Most importantly they won't savage your budget. With RTW you get the huge bonus of seeing what it looks like on you before you buy and the advantage of knowing if one style and brand suits you and you can just go back in and buy another one. And they are available to wear the next day or so after quick alterations.

I'd be inclined to suggest given what little I know about DC ( You can see my DC story elsewhere here) is to get 2 x Winter suits , 2 x summer suits and say 3 x shoulder/ all round suits. From somewhere like SS or similar. Plus a few sport coats and smart dress trousers - you might do all this for say - $5K or less. Get 3 or 4 pair of good shoes - these will last - and a bunch of shirts. 3 x Grenadine solid ties- one navy, one black, one burgundy - and off you go. Better dressed than 99.5% of the public, 97% of colleagues and 90% of most forum habitués.

This will give you plenty of variety and and ability to rest your suits. They wont wear out. Then after a year of this - you'll have a good idea of what works for you on a lot of levels. Then go MTM /Bespoke.

As far as cloth is concerned except for no name brand chinese stuff all the brands are fairly good. Even though theres a fair few brands theres only a small amount of mills around so much of it is made in the same places and much of it doesn't vary that much in quality from these mills - more in patterns etc. The only advice to take from the old hands, bespokers and the vintage cloth sniffers on here and elsewhere is that (mostly) heavier material is better. Except for summer wear.
 
Last edited:

Scherensammler

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,296
Ratings
3,871
I'd also ask Scherensammler Scherensammler Scherensammler Scherensammler to comment on the set points that dictate the differences in fabric quality.

Tailors have preferences and just because it is a luxury cloth their experience in making a suit with it forms their opinion of it.

Reputable merchants & mills like Scabal, Holland and Sherry, Lessers etc all have expensive fabric and even more expensive luxury fabrics but not all of them are equally good. You get quality across the board but not every one is the best of the best.

At some point you are really getting into the weeds because it does become a search for interesting fabric but only if you have a tailor to do CMT with.

With your budget, a reputable UK tailor you are not going to suffer for fabric choices to suit your needs and the tailor will guide you through the process.

It is only igent that pooh-pooh HS and Scabal in favour of other trendy or sexy cloth.
There are quite a few factors that can make a cloth (bunch) a tailor's favourite.
1) It needs to respond to ironwork. A lot of steps in the making process rely on that. Whether it's stretching the inlays at the side seams or the front of the top sleeve to make it hang nice: If you cannot shape a cloth with the iron it is bound to give poor results, especially with inexperienced/ careless tailors and cutters. Many of those will just give up and cut into the inlay, which instantly makes having inlays pointless, since you cannot use them later on.
2) The weave and finish "quality"! That is not only a matter of wear-ability for the climate/ location you're in, but a well woven/ finished cloth will have little to no distortions. A good indicator here is the branding in the selvedge. Usually the letters should be symmetrical, so when you put the edges on top of each other they ideally match or at least come very close. Overall, those cloths won't give you any problems like distortions, uneven patterns and alike and it saves a lot of time. Distorted cloths can also show weird symptoms at the fitting stage. Meaning: While your pattern may be correct, a distorted cloth might indicate a problem, so when you fix it and adjust the pattern it might not be right with a different cloth.
2a) Part of the weave and finish quality: Recovery! By default, twisted yarns have a better shape retention and the cloths will look sharper and crisper to begin with and will crease less over the time of wear. Just be aware that some cloths made from long and hard fibres (for example mohair) might make it hard to remove creases without a proper pressing.
In general, worsted cloths have a better recovery than flannels. If you like flannels, try to look for worsted flannels, as that is a worsted cloth that has gone through the milling process.
3) Weight: Not as important as the internet says it is. I've worked with fine cloths that made up well and heavier cloths that just didn't look crisp enough after the final pressing. Vintage 2-ply weave is, of course, superior to anything out there.
4) Luxury cloths: Mostly the name already hints at a higher price tag and a more precious material. In many cases that also means that they cannot take a lot of abuse. They are mostly about looks and feel (and brand in some cases). Great for showing off on forums, blogs or Instagram, but they also need a lot more care than the more regular, work horse cloths.

When you pick a cloth it helps if you know what you're looking for.
When you are trying bespoke or MTM for the first time choose a Super 120's worsted at 9 to 10 oz in a plain colour. That should cover most of your needs. There are likely to be (hopefully minor) adjustments to the fit/ pattern and it's way more complicated in a check and/ or delicate cloth.
If you're talking to the tailor/ cutter you can trust his/ her/ hen's judgement. With salespeople (especially ones that get provisions for higher sales) perhaps not so much.
 
Messages
13
Ratings
2
Thanks guys...

Do tailors normally know where to look for this stuff? Or do they just not bother with it at all?

Edit: Also why are vintage fabrics preferred? I've seen this before but I don't know why?

Edit2: Also... is it rare to find modern-made 2-ply weave? What makes vintage 2-ply weave superior?
 
Last edited:

Lumpen

Well-Known Member
Messages
440
Ratings
1,189
Our iDOLLl ( do not know how to type the copyright icon) has an issue and sent me a telepatic message asking Dressedjw for help.

He has one of the few sentences in his country as victim of antisemitic hate delicts ( this is for real and one of the mods watched the sentence of his mad stalker being able to aprox 500 meters.) The crime was saying he was an evil jw, his surname was jew, his train was straight to austwitz and calling him nazijw at once ( prove of the mental state of the psychopath stalker).

Now, the mad stalker psychopath, as all need vengance, has sent a cousing to put him a fake denunce saying our iDOLL has called her jw dog and antisemitic hate. Are just 50.000 true hebrews on his country, and most just came from Argentina this crazy has 65 years old and was born here, the mother of the Idoll even was on her catholing wedding 40 years ago.

The faker said je was jw because “he wears a golden David Star”, ok, I drive a Bentley and I am the owner of Bentley...faking idiot.

Is very common there to wear that for fashion purposes, as she does.

The evidence of this bullshit is that is the 17Tth fake denunce he receives, the impersonator who is not jw and lacks of any religion has a platinum fake nose of 40 years of addictions.

My question is if you real and proud jws can help for the trial next Monday asking technical things about that religion he can ask the faker and let her on her daily ridicule as she won´t have a clue.

He wants to put on ridicule the impersonator saying on court, ok tells us about the Tora, can you say the adress of the sinagoge?

( there is only one on the province), she won´t have a clue.

As you are born in Galicia, one of the most famous dishes is octupus a la gallega ( galician style) we all love it, do you?

And on the mediterranean, paella de marisco, ( seafood rice), do you love it as well as breakfast with eggs and milk.

Our Idoll is calling tomorrow to the Israel Embassy to ask if they can help on what we believe is a reverse hate delict, to impersonate to being jw to try to put a fake hate delict to any of other religion, offending deeply the hebrew religion. ( or the impersonated religion)

Our idoll also would say, ok, this is the 17th denunce, for the 18th better you come with a burka to denunce him for “hate delict” saying he was eating a ham sandwich ( on Uk for real a real muslim denunced a non one for doing that on a train)

This is for real, no trolling. You know our doll is half crazy by having to deal with a real crazy family, here another prove to “analice”!
 

Jupiter

Well-Known Member
Messages
832
Ratings
1,893
Our iDOLLl ( do not know how to type the copyright icon) has an issue and sent me a telepatic message asking Dressedjw for help.

He has one of the few sentences in his country as victim of antisemitic hate delicts ( this is for real and one of the mods watched the sentence of his mad stalker being able to aprox 500 meters.) The crime was saying he was an evil jw, his surname was jew, his train was straight to austwitz and calling him nazijw at once ( prove of the mental state of the psychopath stalker).

Now, the mad stalker psychopath, as all need vengance, has sent a cousing to put him a fake denunce saying our iDOLL has called her jw dog and antisemitic hate. Are just 50.000 true hebrews on his country, and most just came from Argentina this crazy has 65 years old and was born here, the mother of the Idoll even was on her catholing wedding 40 years ago.

The faker said je was jw because “he wears a golden David Star”, ok, I drive a Bentley and I am the owner of Bentley...faking idiot.

Is very common there to wear that for fashion purposes, as she does.

The evidence of this bullshit is that is the 17Tth fake denunce he receives, the impersonator who is not jw and lacks of any religion has a platinum fake nose of 40 years of addictions.

My question is if you real and proud jws can help for the trial next Monday asking technical things about that religion he can ask the faker and let her on her daily ridicule as she won´t have a clue.

He wants to put on ridicule the impersonator saying on court, ok tells us about the Tora, can you say the adress of the sinagoge?

( there is only one on the province), she won´t have a clue.

As you are born in Galicia, one of the most famous dishes is octupus a la gallega ( galician style) we all love it, do you?

And on the mediterranean, paella de marisco, ( seafood rice), do you love it as well as breakfast with eggs and milk.

Our Idoll is calling tomorrow to the Israel Embassy to ask if they can help on what we believe is a reverse hate delict, to impersonate to being jw to try to put a fake hate delict to any of other religion, offending deeply the hebrew religion. ( or the impersonated religion)

Our idoll also would say, ok, this is the 17th denunce, for the 18th better you come with a burka to denunce him for “hate delict” saying he was eating a ham sandwich ( on Uk for real a real muslim denunced a non one for doing that on a train)

This is for real, no trolling. You know our doll is half crazy by having to deal with a real crazy family, here another prove to “analice”!
Clozapine is in the drawer of your bedside table. Don't forget it. One capsule every morning.
 

Lumpen

Well-Known Member
Messages
440
Ratings
1,189
Juditial order of protection for our iDoll for being called jew and one of the first ever hate delicts on his country.


la medida cautelar de prohibición de acercamiento en un radio


aproximado de 500 metros y contacto . en cualquier forma, respecto a




1530799164748.png


More antisemitic insults inside the Crime Delict against our doll.

 
Top Bottom