Agreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

Pimpernel Smith

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Lewis Hamilton was in full RAL colour compliance at the weekend:

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RepeatingPattern

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I like Tony Sylvester in general, even if his tastes don’t always align with my own. Personally I’d never wear a beret but I’d say this is in good taste. At the very least, it’s inoffensive.
 

Sammy Ambrose

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Very elegant this combination of grey tones, subdued and refined.

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I wore a brown striped shirt yesterday. But the stripes were less pronounced. The tie was a darker grey with a motif. Trousers were olive and shoes and belt chestnut. Watch strap the brown of the tie.(Matchy matchy Sammy.)

My shirt was button down so I didn't have the tie bits you shouldn't see exposed as with the spread collar in your pic.
 
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belinmad

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I wore a brown striped shirt yesterday. But the stripes were less pronounced. The tie was a darker grey with a motif. Trousers were olive and shoes and belt chestnut. Watch strap the brown of the tie.(Matchy matchy Sammy.)

My shirt was button down so I didn't have the tie bits you shouldn't see exposed as with the spread collar in your pic.
No pics?
 

QuandoDio

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I like Tony Sylvester in general, even if his tastes don’t always align with my own. Personally I’d never wear a beret but I’d say this is in good taste. At the very least, it’s inoffensive.


Yeah, the beret is a no-go. However, tbf to him he is consistent with his 'beret schtick'. Early last year, before COVID I saw him at the airport in Helskinki with whom I imagine was his significant other on their way to London and he was clad in the Beret in the airport and in flight along with some Odd Jacket and trousers combination. OTOH I was in a hoodie (my only hoodie)!
 

Sauce

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See he's plugging his beret ''back in stock'' on his Instagram. Lots of tattoos going on.

Had a beret back in the 1980s for a brief period when they were in fashion for all of 4 weeks. Never wore it - too embarassing.
I had a red one, and I rocked it.
 

Sauce

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Anyone else on Anglo-Italian's mailing list? I got an update from them today and the picture in it was this coat, That lapel is very agreeable...

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Journeyman

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^Plenty of belly on that lapel. I have a DB from Ralph Lauren, back when it was still made in the US, that looks very similar.
 

Journeyman

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The lapel almost covers the top button. Not a good look.

Well, that's subjective.

Some lapels have more belly, some have less (ie the bottom of the lapel is straight(er), rather than having a concave curve). As far as I am aware, it's quite common and traditional, particularly amongst UK tailors, to make double-breasted lapels with a lot of belly. This lapel is an example of that style.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Very ivy and very good.

(Although that jacket might be a little bit too small for him. Could just be that shot.)
That's the short fitting jacket style. Three of the biggest offenders for that are Prince William, that Harry Hewitt love child chap and Kier Starmer. Always looks effete and cheap to me.
 

QuandoDio

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That's the short fitting jacket style. Three of the biggest offenders for that are Prince William, that Harry Hewitt love child chap and Kier Starmer. Always looks effete and cheap to me.
I'd say Rishi Sunak and Osborne are more notorious for this. Perhaps it is a chancellor thing. In the former's case, he already looks like a malnourished urchin and his schoolboy suits don't help.
 

Sammy Ambrose

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That's the short fitting jacket style. Three of the biggest offenders for that are Prince William, that Harry Hewitt love child chap and Kier Starmer. Always looks effete and cheap to me.
Ever since I started getting clothes tailored, or even altered, I've gone for a slightly shorter jacket than the tailor has wanted to cut.

At 5'8", and with a relatively big upper body a slightly shorter jacket creates the illusion of greater height.

To me, a lot of guys would look less Neanderthal if they didn't wear such long jackets.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Thats the most endearing part of Starmers appeal, don't knock it.
If that's his best part, he has a problem. The worse is when he goes sans tie with the white shirt with the weakest collars I've ever seen. And with his Byrlcreem bounce. Wow.
Ever since I started getting clothes tailored, or even altered, I've gone for a slightly shorter jacket than the tailor has wanted to cut.

At 5'8", and with a relatively big upper body a slightly shorter jacket creates the illusion of greater height.

To me, a lot of guys would look less Neanderthal if they didn't wear such long jackets.
Interesting. I'm 6' 1''ish, too short, it looks terrible, an attempt to be boyish IMCO. But I also get too long can turn the jacket into a coat derivative.

I'd say Rishi Sunak and Osborne are more notorious for this. Perhaps it is a chancellor thing. In the former's case, he already looks like a malnourished urchin and his schoolboy suits don't help.
They're all bad as well.

The thing with the modern politician it's a case of being bland to hide the skulduggery going on behind the scenes. Like Boris with his Pulsar. Just a stage act. Does anyone think he's not sporting that as an affectation to bedazzle the weak and feeble minded. He's as hungry for power and status as the rest of us. And has got it. The I don't think enough of about my appearance to comb my hair, or wear a decent watch, because I don't care and are powerful enough not to dig what you think, or engage in mere aesthetics is pure stage craft.
 

CodPiece

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At 5'8", and with a relatively big upper body a slightly shorter jacket creates the illusion of greater height.
To me, a lot of guys would look less Neanderthal if they didn't wear such long jackets.

I'm same height. I had a tailor that refused to alter anything for me in a Regular length, only Short. It was a bit of a blow to the ego, but I always walked away with much more pleasing proportions.
 

Sauce

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Interesting. I'm 6' 1''ish, too short, it looks terrible, an attempt to be boyish IMCO. But I also get too long can turn the jacket into a coat derivative.
Same here, at 6' 5" a short coat looks woeful on me. I see it all the time on tall men as well. Sports coat half way on their bum, slighty lower on the front. Looks so bad.
 

LeFoo1

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I believe torso:leg ratio comes into play as well. Although it’s unclear how it affects the perfect jacket length.

My tailor casually remarked that he gave me a shorter jacket than people my height because my torso is shorter. I would’ve thought a longer jacket is preferable to create the illusion of a longer torso, but apparently not.
 

belinmad

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I believe torso:leg ratio comes into play as well. Although it’s unclear how it affects the perfect jacket length.

My tailor casually remarked that he gave me a shorter jacket than people my height because my torso is shorter. I would’ve thought a longer jacket is preferable to create the illusion of a longer torso, but apparently not.

I think torso:leg ratio comes into play as a secondary observation, no? Typically (or at least what I have always experienced and seen in other bespoke garments is you measure your jacket to your thumb’s knuckle - which means you are measuring torso:arm ratio really, no? From there, some people prefer it a tad shorter (a trend that most people dressing footballers seem to have adopted) or longer (Sexton style). I’m 5’9” and jackets that are shorter than my knuckle just feel oddly childish.

I do have a few that are cut longer, always depending on how “deep” the waist suppression on the coat is, ie if there’s a clear supression subtly starting below the armpit, then I see a longer jacket as more elegant and forgiving. A jacket with a more brusque waist supression (just at waist level) tends to look a bit ridiculous if too long. So maybe there’s also the ratio of the two overlapping triangles?
 
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