Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

Scherensammler said:
Do we know who his tailor is? An iGent favourite?
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has set up his own Long Island New York mtm operation. he uses some fly by night naples operation for the tailoring.
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has also used these jokers :
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It was suggested earlier that he was shilling for his own tailoring operation.
Is this the evidence that was true?
Impressive analysis there (see how I managed to spell that properly?)
 
Scherensammler said:
I've been told that a lot of the vintage (high-end) cloths have two ply yarns both in warp and weft, which makes a balanced cloth.
It also means that there is more wool material to begin with. Wool has the ability/ capacity to store/ retain a lot of moisture in it's fibres. IIRC, it's up to 60% of it's own weight. That is way ahead of any other fibre. And is part of what "experts" call performance.
A heavy 2-ply high twist cloth will outperform a light weight high twist at any time and in any way, simply because it stays in shape longer.
The super 1xx wool thing is just a marketing trick. It only tells you either how fine the wool fibres used are or how much the yarn used weighs per a defined length. Neither says anything about the actual quality of the cloth.
A little trick I was taught is to grab a cloth (sample if you only have a bunch at hand) and squeeze it hard in your hand for a bit (the only time where sweaty hands are a good thing). When you open your hand you will experience 2 basic events:
1) The cloth is crumpled. Mostly softer, milled cloths or any cheap crap.
2) The cloth jumps back into it's previous shape. Better cloths with twisted yarns and a good finish.
However, you want a cloth that can keep a nice crease in the trousers and that keeps flat along the seams.

Coming to why the suit in the images above looks rubbish, I can only guess.
Lets start:
The cut: The waist is over-suppressed. Evident through the pull at the front button. Hard to tell who is responsible for this, the customer demanding it to show off his athletic build and/ or the tailor. I'm guessing both, since there is also the extended front dart present.
Which is a stupid move when combined with extreme waist suppression and a phat ass. The dart is there to take material out at the hip level. So if you have no bum or are slim all the way through, that's fine. In combination with wider shoulders it will give you a masculine Y shape silhouette. When you have a big bum (or birth giving hips) this dart is not for you. Don't demand it because it's part of what you think is "authentic Neapolitan style"! If it was suggested by ye olde teacher, kick him in the nuts. If he asks why, kick him again. He deserves it.
Natural shoulders for a guy with sloping shoulders is a bad idea. Look how low his left shoulder is.
Creases in the sleeves probably from being cut too narrow at elbow/ cuff.
Trousers are a mess.

The tailoring: The puckering along the edges/ seams probably comes from tight stitches (machined seams and/ or hand). Another culprit might be the cloth itself.
Some high-twist cloths don't tailor well. What that means is, that certain things like pressing seams or edges flat is hard to do because the cloth wants to come back into it's original shape. Think of a rubber band. It's hard to perform standard tailoring procedures like pressing and shaping the cloth with a hot iron/ steam. Usually a problem when the tailors still try to work modern, light weights cloths like the way they worked the old, heavy ones. If you cannot do it with the iron you need to put in the shape through the pattern. One main example is the top collar. Much easier to do a 2-piece collar that lies flat and sits nice than trying the stretch the cloth up to breaking point, hoping it will stay that way.

Other factor for the shitty look of the suit can be humidity. Either coming from the body or the environment. Or from both. If it exceeds what the cloth can handle (see explanation at the top), the cloth will crease. For the same reason don't put your light weight suit into the bathroom after a shower. The moisture will undo whatever the tailors have done to the cloth to stay in shape.
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Top Top SuitScience.
 
rdiaz said:
Yes, he'd look absolutely out of context mostly everywhere. I like the clothes, much like his 1930 costumey suits, but actually wearing them somewhere is a different thing.
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What do you chaps think of that Sven Raphael Schneider fellow? He's forever channelling the 1930s, and some of his advice is downright dangerous.
 
He sold (or nearly did ) a piece of cloth to a acquaintance of mine and quoted him +2,000 for a giacca made at his "sartoria".
 
rdiaz said:
Yes, he'd look absolutely out of context mostly everywhere. I like the clothes, much like his 1930 costumey suits, but actually wearing them somewhere is a different thing.
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Yes, but the wonderful thing is that this does not bother him in the slightest. The classic soda fountain photo shows a man full of confidence and oblivious to his surroundings. He is a top poster.
 
Jupiter said:
Surprised that FC doesn't see directly the source of the problem. Even an 800gr fabric would be distorted with a such overtight cut.
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in some places yes. but i've seen plenty of poorly tailored and tight clothes cut from heavy cloth in real life and on the forums and the drape of that cloth looked especially bad. it looks like a poorly tailored summer suit. which is why i was asking a tailor what he thought was going on. just curious. looking to learn.
 
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Scherensammler said:
I've been told that a lot of the vintage (high-end) cloths have two ply yarns both in warp and weft, which makes a balanced cloth.
It also means that there is more wool material to begin with. Wool has the ability/ capacity to store/ retain a lot of moisture in it's fibres. IIRC, it's up to 60% of it's own weight. That is way ahead of any other fibre. And is part of what "experts" call performance.
A heavy 2-ply high twist cloth will outperform a light weight high twist at any time and in any way, simply because it stays in shape longer.
The super 1xx wool thing is just a marketing trick. It only tells you either how fine the wool fibres used are or how much the yarn used weighs per a defined length. Neither says anything about the actual quality of the cloth.
A little trick I was taught is to grab a cloth (sample if you only have a bunch at hand) and squeeze it hard in your hand for a bit (the only time where sweaty hands are a good thing). When you open your hand you will experience 2 basic events:
1) The cloth is crumpled. Mostly softer, milled cloths or any cheap crap.
2) The cloth jumps back into it's previous shape. Better cloths with twisted yarns and a good finish.
However, you want a cloth that can keep a nice crease in the trousers and that keeps flat along the seams.

Coming to why the suit in the images above looks rubbish, I can only guess.
Lets start:
The cut: The waist is over-suppressed. Evident through the pull at the front button. Hard to tell who is responsible for this, the customer demanding it to show off his athletic build and/ or the tailor. I'm guessing both, since there is also the extended front dart present.
Which is a stupid move when combined with extreme waist suppression and a phat ass. The dart is there to take material out at the hip level. So if you have no bum or are slim all the way through, that's fine. In combination with wider shoulders it will give you a masculine Y shape silhouette. When you have a big bum (or birth giving hips) this dart is not for you. Don't demand it because it's part of what you think is "authentic Neapolitan style"! If it was suggested by ye olde teacher, kick him in the nuts. If he asks why, kick him again. He deserves it.
Natural shoulders for a guy with sloping shoulders is a bad idea. Look how low his left shoulder is.
Creases in the sleeves probably from being cut too narrow at elbow/ cuff.
Trousers are a mess.

The tailoring: The puckering along the edges/ seams probably comes from tight stitches (machined seams and/ or hand). Another culprit might be the cloth itself.
Some high-twist cloths don't tailor well. What that means is, that certain things like pressing seams or edges flat is hard to do because the cloth wants to come back into it's original shape. Think of a rubber band. It's hard to perform standard tailoring procedures like pressing and shaping the cloth with a hot iron/ steam. Usually a problem when the tailors still try to work modern, light weights cloths like the way they worked the old, heavy ones. If you cannot do it with the iron you need to put in the shape through the pattern. One main example is the top collar. Much easier to do a 2-piece collar that lies flat and sits nice than trying the stretch the cloth up to breaking point, hoping it will stay that way.

Other factor for the shitty look of the suit can be humidity. Either coming from the body or the environment. Or from both. If it exceeds what the cloth can handle (see explanation at the top), the cloth will crease. For the same reason don't put your light weight suit into the bathroom after a shower. The moisture will undo whatever the tailors have done to the cloth to stay in shape.
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Many thanks for your insights. Top value answer. Could you give us a top 5 of your favorite fabrics? Considering the quality of the drape, their hand, their durability, the pleasure you had to tailor them?
 
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Kingstonian said:
Yes, but the wonderful thing is that this does not bother him in the slightest. The classic soda fountain photo shows a man full of confidence and oblivious to his surroundings. He is a top poster.
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If dressing well was simply about dressing formally we’d all be walking round in top hat and tails everywhere. The fact is, a large part of dressing well is dressing for the context. White tie at the ice cream parlor is pure cosplay, nothing more nothing less. He and everyone else should just be honest about it.
 
Great White Snark said:
If dressing well was simply about dressing formally we’d all be walking round in top hat and tails everywhere. The fact is, a large part of dressing well is dressing for the context. White tie at the ice cream parlor is pure cosplay, nothing more nothing less. He and everyone else should just be honest about it.
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If he admitted it his costumeyness would actually be fine for me. Has he ever done it?
 
rdiaz said:
If he admitted it his costumeyness would actually be fine for me. Has he ever done it?
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No he gets into a rabid rage if anyone even suggest the c- word, the stupid little ponce.

Ditto his belligerent refusal to accept the endless amount of comments saying his cartoon sized hats are too big.
 
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That's a pity. I do like to see vintage stuff but if you're going to wear it you can't just take it seriously as everyday wear. It's going to look costumey no matter what you do. Just accept it and then enjoy it.
 
TheUntermensch said:
What do you chaps think of that Sven Raphael Schneider fellow? He's forever channelling the 1930s, and some of his advice is downright dangerous.
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He has one of the worst shilling blogs ever.

Also I love to read some of his articles as best books on tailoring, and on number 1 is his own ibook.

Pure narcissism.
 
Great White Snark said:
If dressing well was simply about dressing formally we’d all be walking round in top hat and tails everywhere. The fact is, a large part of dressing well is dressing for the context. White tie at the ice cream parlor is pure cosplay, nothing more nothing less. He and everyone else should just be honest about it.
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If everyone was dressing for the context it would be a very boring world. He is an outlier. Call it cosplay if you want - but it’s top of his game cosplay. It is a pleasure to see it done so well at the ice cream parlour.
 
Does anyone want to buy my EG's?

This video made me vomit a little bit in my mouth and I can't get the taste of EG selling their souls (although they had already jumped the shark with group MTO's in Ghey leathers and colours to igents) out of my mouth
 
güero said:
In fact it is the same in Den Haag. About 96.4% of all people/families would prefer e.g. Archipelbuurt/Willemspark to e.g. Zoetermeer or (a bit more upscale) Delft, provided they had the choice = money. It might be a close call beween Willemspark and Wassenaar, but then a place where a nice but not lavish house easily costs a couple of €m does hardly qualify as a "suburb" irrespective of its location.

I know it is the same for multiple cities on multiple continents, so it is probably fair to generalize.
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Zoetermeer is pretty dreadful, except for that art deco house on the lake. There's also some decent housing in the Rokkeven by the small lake and woods on the otherside of the highway. I cycle through there a lot on my way to Rottemeren.

Willemspark suffers from the same affliction as the expat favourite location Statenkwartier in that a €950,000 to a million will get you a terraced house with dodgy sound proofing, if you're not careful some old lead pipes hidden and no car park space or real garden. Or one that's overlooked by everyone. If you look at what that kind of money would get you in the new developments in Berkel en Rodenrijs or even the very new ones in Pijnacker, it's a no brainer when it comes to quality and size.

My missus wants to get back to the city, I'm not really that keen, but if it comes to it, Westbroekpark or Belgische Park areas for me.

sirloin said:
Not so strange is it? Delft is pretty nice.
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In parts, but also some horrible areas dominated by high rises. Completely different vibe to The Hague though.

TheUntermensch said:
What do you chaps think of that Sven Raphael Schneider fellow? He's forever channelling the 1930s, and some of his advice is downright dangerous.
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Dangerous style advice, moi?

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InstaHate said:
With the right amount of blow, who isn’t?
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I remember a younger female colleague complaining that all her boyfriends were coming out after extensive MDMA sessions.
 
Lumpen said:
As all masons, abortists and elitists are...

Also worst dressed prime minister EVER.
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Is anyone else alarmed by the rise of ever younger Wunderkind politicians? I don't want to be ruled (we're not fucking governed - let's drop the pretense) by cnvts younger than me. They haven't the depth of character and life experience required in a leadership role.
 
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