softshoulder
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If you smell what the rock is cookin..
Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day
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verrihappy
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Print shop handyman Mitchell Moss, cheapskate wannabe menswear blogger, homosexual man of the cloth, shameless freeloader and deranged fantastist.
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verrihappy
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Another Kotaro masterpiece.
verrihappy
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Bespoke that's worse than Salvation Army handouts.
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verrihappy
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Bespoke made in Vietnam
charliewong
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Mitchell Moss speaks on functionality, fat loss and strength
This guy should stop buying bespoke. Then go hit the gym, and stop stuffing his face. His body is as hopeless as his ability to choose tailors.
More than half of his bespoke look like he got them off the rack and didn't even throw them on to check for fit. No amount of money can buy style when you're obese and legally blind like this dude is.
verrihappy
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The dwarf's bespoke shirts are as bad as his Kotaros.
These bespoke ensembles (Sarto Jun?) makes him proud.
These bespoke ensembles (Sarto Jun?) makes him proud.
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Sometimes I wonder if people on styleforum and Instagram have selective blindness or are just too afraid to speak out on these monstrosities. All of the truly well dressed in styleforum left a long time ago, and the ones around now just know how to spend money unwisely.
There's actually a train wreck Corcos thread in styleforum where a bunch of Corcos' clients are running defense for his work. It almost feels like all of them are part of Kotaro's harem or something. Gotta be beta for the free shit suits ig
To my knowledge, most of Saville Row also use the block pattern approach now.
No use training new tailors to use rock of eye if they just leave and set up their own shop in a couple of years. I think it's also because very few people ask for anything other than house cut these days so this has become a cost effective cheating shortcut. It has made it quite hard to get anything that isn't the house cut, but most of those try-a-tailor bespoke addicts wouldn't really know or care.
Who knows what this portends for the future of tailoring. Can't say there weren't scam tailors in the past, but I have been seeing worse and worse quality bespoke come out over the years. Even my former house, Edward Sexton fell off after the man himself passed away. (I saw their recent work and was far from impressed)
Who were the well dressed from style forum's golden years?
Vox sartoria for Classic menswear. He was pretty snarky and sarcastic most of the time, but was insightful and legitimately walked the talk.
Some of his more recent outfits
The giant gulf in the quality and thought in his bespoke outfits should be very apparent compared to your typical bespoking styleforumite
verrihappy
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Degenerate, inbred, sexually deviant, physically deformed and mentally challenged Styleforum bespoke big spenders voted for the best tailor 2024.
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Darth Bane
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This is constantly being suggested by others, but they always have second-hand information. I have yet to meet a real customer of an old Savile Row house who had his tailor confirm the use of block patterns.
I have seen people on SF argue that Henry Poole, of all places, uses block patterns. That is outright bullshit. Poole is explicit in stating that their cutters draft individual patterns by hand. https://henrypoole.com/bespoke-tailoring/bespoke-process/
I have also heard rumours and grumbles about bespoke cobblers like Lobb, etc. I'm fairly sure that these originate from igent bloggers who are pissed off that they can't get free shoes from the firm, and so try to besmirch their reputation. Why else would they praise a lastmaker with a "two year apprenticeship" over bootmakers at Lobb with fifteen, twenty years experience?
So just one poster, and it's Voxsartoria? I think you're grasping at straws and obviously need something to hate on.
There are still individuals on the forum who purchase classic menswear from quality tailors and still provide value to the forum. Brax, Aristoi Bcn, Lordsuperb, Urbancomposition, Mr. Six, Andy57, and Gdl203 are a few that come to mind.
verrihappy
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Applauded as a perfect fit from Kotaro.
Every problematic suit with construction issues posted here. You couldn't even identify let alone extrapolate on. I knew your question was worded as a "gotcha" because you already had an answer in mind (same dance you did with darth bane) so I just provided someone who unquestionably embodied real cream-of-the-crop excellence. I'm not talking about good or great dressers. I've always been talking about the best. None of the people you mentioned come close.
Honestly, It's best you shut your mouth if all you can contribute are loaded questions. You don't even know how to identify the difference between bad from good. Lord knows I can't expect you to identify anything truly excellent even if I broke it down point-by-point
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I see. It's true I haven't really kept track of the developments in the Row for quite some time. I found the argument convincing so I didn't bother looking into it nearly as much so my bad. I could definitely be wrong on that front, and there may be more malice to the rumours than I'd initially ascribed towards them
I know this guy...he's really easy to fit for most tailors. They don't usually fumble with him, but his kotaro suit had this light drop shoulder issue that caused the stomach area and the arm area around the left hand side to crinkle. The severity of its manifestation depended on the contrast and angle of the shot, but it was definitely all there when he did that whole instagram photo set with different angles.
It's a huge negative mark on a tailor when he fails to nail a really really easy body type with a single minor issue (like this guy's super light dropped left shoulder). I know tailors will fumble every now and then, but Kotaro has the most mind boggling fumbles. It's almost like he's using his clients' suits as apprenticeship practice
verrihappy
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Kotaro crap for Ryuichi Akutsu
foxandhound
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When you stare into the Kotaro abyss, sometimes it stares back into you.
Here is the 1000 yard stare of a man who has definitely hit his 10 bespoke minima.
“Look on my Works, ye Mighty, and despair!”
Darth Bane
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Yeah, I'd say there is a definite pattern. It's traceable to certain shills and former shills on SF like Dieworkwear and the like.
The main issue is that so much of the menswear sphere is caught up in these bloggers, who have no compunctions about dealing trash if it pays and whose sense of self-worth, along with that of their readers, is bound up in being able to afford full price, which means they never disclose their actual business arrangements - it's always "my friend X tailor" or "my latest commission." Meanwhile, you find out that they don't even wear tailoring regularly and think "dressing to get dinner" is one of the only outlets left for suits (I wish I were making that up).
Ultimately, there's no proof. You have a group of hive-mind bloggers/posters with conflicts of interest (so many on SF sell clothes) who trash-talk the greats, but there is also no real word from one of Poole's (example) customers to confirm. Sure, you'll get someone claiming that Poole messed up their suit, but they never show any proof because it's entirely hearsay. And we don't know how insane of a customer that igent was, either.
As for Lobb, I actually have a few pairs and can categorically state that they are better-made than many of the Nicholas Templeman examples I've seen. Perhaps he should have stayed in the workshop a bit longer instead of moving to Canada to make a living off internet hype.
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Darth Bane
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Andy57 was mentioned above. Here is a photo of him. This photo was publicly touted by Dieworkwear as an example of a "formal waistcoat" - one of which he approved.
What to do with this? The lapels, bow tie, satin jet pockets, and jacket shoulders are all hideous. It looks like a suit to which satin lapels were slapped. And the less said about that (diamond?) bangle bracelet the better.
But the really egregious thing is that dreadful waistcoat. All wrong. The buttons are far too wide apart, and it stops about halfway up the shirtfront. It looks like a rented costume. It's not even a formal waistcoat, as DWW claimed, because it's for black tie. Formal is white tie (but then he probably doesn't know that).
Meanwhile, here are examples of an actual semi-formal waistcoat worn well.
See the difference? Notice where the waistcoat ends and the close spacing of the buttons. Note also the cut of the shoulders. Even Clark Gable's jacket, which is cut a little more suit-like, has a softer sleevehead. The coat is cut to allow movement of the arm and comfort in these party clothes. Andy's jacket is cut to swan about and... flap in the breeze, I guess?
What to do with this? The lapels, bow tie, satin jet pockets, and jacket shoulders are all hideous. It looks like a suit to which satin lapels were slapped. And the less said about that (diamond?) bangle bracelet the better.
But the really egregious thing is that dreadful waistcoat. All wrong. The buttons are far too wide apart, and it stops about halfway up the shirtfront. It looks like a rented costume. It's not even a formal waistcoat, as DWW claimed, because it's for black tie. Formal is white tie (but then he probably doesn't know that).
Meanwhile, here are examples of an actual semi-formal waistcoat worn well.
See the difference? Notice where the waistcoat ends and the close spacing of the buttons. Note also the cut of the shoulders. Even Clark Gable's jacket, which is cut a little more suit-like, has a softer sleevehead. The coat is cut to allow movement of the arm and comfort in these party clothes. Andy's jacket is cut to swan about and... flap in the breeze, I guess?
Sartodi Napoli
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Wow, almost all mediocre ones.
What happened to Rubitacky, went out of fashion for those hype followers with one neurone?
Sartodi Napoli
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Another proof of that degenerate imbecile cluster B Diework shill, he has any idea, deport him now!
Sartodi Napoli
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I will remember again how that degenerate ilegal inmigrant Dieworkwear shill pmed´d all the other unforum with an old Finamore badspoke I had ( and they politely sent me a proper one later) way before I was shirtmaker, hence my young face on the pic, telling "I was a poor shirtmaker and that were my poor skills", gaslighting: psychopaths.
He is a damn psychopath cluster B, as his as well ilegal inmigrant from a shouldbenuked communist shithole Fuckfok
Sartodi Napoli
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Don´t tell me that aberration 2 sizes bigger of shirt is bespoke?
Looks even worse than Burgos one, complimenti!
Honestly, the rtw good shirts got so good sizing, that getting a Italian good shirt rtw on his size would get way better fit.
He might be a 37 size
Darth Bane
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I have many rtw Turnbull & Asser shirts (another brand that SF posters love to hate on) that fit me better than those 'bespoke' things he's wearing.
Only formal shirts should have the 'gentleman's cut' and generous proportions, while fitting close around the shoulders, to allow for the starched front to be shown well. Shirts with soft collars shouldn't look like that.
Sartodi Napoli
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I studied shirtmaking and Naples and practiced in a lot of well know houses, one even was C. A... and everything bespoke is as fitted as possible and there everything commisioned was formal but some weekend shirts for the same high clientele, mostly european diputys who do not pay the 4500 euros per suit and 600 per shirt, but we the rest do pay for them...
By any reason we delivered such a rice bag, that is simply a scam and an aberration.
As you say, that type of cut was in the 80´s and 90´s for dressing white shirts, but I doubt that client wanted that, he has been (self)scammed, first by going to that tourist trap place, second by having any idea about anything and do not fill a complaint file about it.
One thing that shocks me is how is an Asian tailoring house in Italy, in fact I only see Asian clients, I am pretty sure those are the laughs of the Italian locals, but the shop and the clients and it lacks of European clients. Am I wrong?
verrihappy
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The degenerate, pint sized Asiatic fan/bend boys of Sartoria Corcos think it's the epitome of fit, style and elegance, and much better than Liverano despite all evidence to the contrary that Kotaro is an arrogant POS and a subpar wannabe Florentine tailor.
Sartodi Napoli
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All this igent idiots I wonder how idiots they are that they do not realice they are being cheated.
It's like when in the Wolf of Wall Street scene, he is so drugged that whacks his lambo back and forth over and over, but on his mind he yets believes the car is mint and he an ace driver.
The reality:
It's like when in the Wolf of Wall Street scene, he is so drugged that whacks his lambo back and forth over and over, but on his mind he yets believes the car is mint and he an ace driver.
The reality:
verrihappy
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Sartoria Corcos fan/bend/rent boys.
verrihappy
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Edward Sexton bespoke nightmare.
Sartodi Napoli
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Edward GaySex was one of the worst untailors I ever watched.
And this thing, you could save some several thousand euros and get a way better fit from any good rtw brand as Zileri, Caruso etc.
Those whacked shoulders are as a drunk drives on a straight road, doing S all the time.
And this thing, you could save some several thousand euros and get a way better fit from any good rtw brand as Zileri, Caruso etc.
Those whacked shoulders are as a drunk drives on a straight road, doing S all the time.
verrihappy
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De Petrillo Napoli RTW, at a fraction of the the price of Sartoria Corcos bespoke.
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Thomas Crown
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What a horrible waiter's jacket from Sexton! If my gardener wore something like that, he'd be sent straight to the back office in the basement.
Darth Bane
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Waiter's jacket is right. A white dinner jacket is for serving staff and Hollywood types.
The jacket itself is a terrible cut. There are no redeeming features to it whatsoever.
Thomas Crown
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Holly Molly, what happened to that Corcos shirt? It fits like a garbage bag. Something like that at Uniqlo, and you'd fire the designer.
ghost
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I assume that you are referring to the blue/gray and white striped shirt. If so, I believe that was a test shirt to check for comfort and shrinkage. The salmon colored shirt was made specifically to be loose and billowy. That was TDang's goal. He did not design it with the intention to wear it with tailored jackets. He stated that it was for hot humid climates and more relaxed outfits.
Sartodi Napoli
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