Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

Monkeyface said:
Not as bad as the £1700 cardigan he had the other week. It's kinda making me want to quit classic menswear as whole.
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Yes. The magazines are complicit too with layouts you'd need to remortgage a small castle to be and to afford.

Now this may be a little tasteless but where does 'Crapton' get his money? Is he an independently wealthy trust fund kid? Does he really pull in that much revenue from his blog? Are most of his threads freebies? Cos it seems to me he is constantly shelling out vast sums for his gargantuan wardrobe of brown suits and blue shirts and suede shoes.
And are we really supposed to believe that crap about how - given that he must have a wardrobe the size of a hotel ballroom - that he composes his blog on that rickety antique Oliver Twist schoolboy's desk with his scarfs hanging on a peg in the wall above it? Cos if this is all part of his carefully composed online persona that was a bridge too far for me!
 
Great White Snark said:
Now this may be a little tasteless but where does 'Crapton' get his money?
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this may be very tasteless but...

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Arnathor said:
Was it knit from Vicuna?
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Just regular cashmere. The price isn't even the problem, but the fact that he portrays the damn thing like it's a necessity, that one would be crazy not to pay so much money for a cardigan. That any other cardigan simply would not do compared to this one. That it's a lifetime investment. It looked like a bathrobe as well, so that makes it worse.

We all act like menswear is timeless, so buying something now means you could wear it forever. However, the world around us changes, the style, the materials, the formality. We change as well, our circumstances, our body, our location, our tastes and sensibilities. Moreover, the fabric wears out, life happens and an irreversible stain is made, etc.

Crapton (and many others) portray clothes like they're a 40 year investment, but they're simply an expense with a short term benefit.
 
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Great White Snark said:
Yes. The magazines are complicit too with layouts you'd need to remortgage a small castle to be and to afford.

Now this may be a little tasteless but where does 'Crapton' get his money? Is he an independently wealthy trust fund kid? Does he really pull in that much revenue from his blog? Are most of his threads freebies? Cos it seems to me he is constantly shelling out vast sums for his gargantuan wardrobe of brown suits and blue shirts and suede shoes.
And are we really supposed to believe that crap about how - given that he must have a wardrobe the size of a hotel ballroom - that he composes his blog on that rickety antique Oliver Twist schoolboy's desk with his scarfs hanging on a peg in the wall above it? Cos if this is all part of his carefully composed online persona that was a bridge too far for me!
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I suspect he is paying cost.
 
Great White Snark said:
Now this may be a little tasteless but where does 'Crapton' get his money?
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Well he did study PPE at Oxford. Bloody Oxbridge inner circles and all that. Just like that Aleksandar Cvetkovic. One day he's running the 'Student Tailor' blog. Then he graduates. Next thing you know, he's online editor of The Rake.
 
Monkeyface said:
Not as bad as the £1700 cardigan he had the other week. It's kinda making me want to quit classic menswear as whole.
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Talk about Jumping The Shark(skin) this is where it really gets funny 1300 GBP squids for a pair of casual trousers - paired with a 1700 GBP cardigan. Plus I'd suggest a 400 GBP shirt - not to mention the 2000 GBP shoes + 60 GBP socks and I imagine highly prices underwear.

Say about 5,000 GBP - U$A 7,000

All for an afternoon at home playing with the kids or at a neighbourhood BBQ. Its enough to make you think Tibor is the sensible one.
 
Monkeyface said:
Just regular cashmere. The price isn't even the problem, but the fact that he portrays the damn thing like it's a necessity, that one would be crazy not to pay so much money for a cardigan. That any other cardigan simply would not do compared to this one. That it's a lifetime investment. It looked like a bathrobe as well, so that makes it worse.

We all act like menswear is timeless, so buying something now means you could wear it forever. However, the world around us changes, the style, the materials, the formality. We change as well, our circumstances, our body, our location, our tastes and sensibilities. Moreover, the fabric wears out, life happens and an irreversible stain is made, etc.

Crapton (and many others) portray clothes like they're a 40 year investment, but they're simply an expense with a short term benefit.
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A cardigan is a consumable item as far as I am concerned. That's why I never spend any serious money on jumpers, pullovers and the likes. You're not going to get more than a couple of seasons out of them and if wear and tear doesn't get to them, the moths will.

As for a 40 year investment, I think the only items that will work for are shoes with a decent rotation. Jackets will likely fall out of fashion eventually, or over wear and you'll just get bored. Shirts can last a long time, again if you have a massive rotation and sport t-shirt vests underneath. Trousers susceptibe to red wine stains, as our shirts with added food stains.

I suppose rotation plays a big factor in it. But if your sporting a couple of suits for work, even with two pairs of trousers, how long are they going to last? You'd be lucky to get 5 years out of them.

Ultimately, longevity will boil down to rotation/vagaries of fashion/boredom threshold for most clothing.


TheUntermensch said:
Well he did study PPE at Oxford. Bloody Oxbridge inner circles and all that. Just like that Aleksandar Cvetkovic. One day he's running the 'Student Tailor' blog. Then he graduates. Next thing you know, he's online editor of The Rake.
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PPE, the last refuge of rank mediocrity and the professional political class.

They say a First in PPE, is equivalent to getting a lower second in any other Oxford degree course.

fxh said:
Talk about Jumping The Shark(skin) this is where it really gets funny 1300 GBP squids for a pair of casual trousers - paired with a 1700 GBP cardigan. Plus I'd suggest a 400 GBP shirt - not to mention the 2000 GBP shoes + 60 GBP socks and I imagine highly prices underwear.

Say about 5,000 GBP - U$A 7,000

All for an afternoon at home playing with the kids or at a neighbourhood BBQ. Its enough to make you think Tibor is the sensible one.
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One luxury watch, or spend the afternoon in a state of high anxiety in case you spill some BBQ sauce or red wine on your outfit.
 
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Lord Buckley said:
A cardigan is a consumable item as far as I am concerned. That's why I never spend any serious money on jumpers, pullovers and the likes. You're not going to get more than a couple of seasons out of them and if wear and tear doesn't get to them, the moths will.

As for a 40 year investment, I think the only items that will work for are shoes with a decent rotation. Jackets will likely fall out of fashion eventually, or over wear and you'll just get bored. Shirts can last a long time, again if you have a massive rotation and sport t-shirt vests underneath. Trousers susceptibe to red wine stains, as our shirts with added food stains.

I suppose rotation plays a big factor in it. But if your sporting a couple of suits for work, even with two pairs of trousers, how long are they going to last? You'd be lucky to get 5 years out of them.

Ultimately, longevity will boil down to rotation/vagaries of fashion/boredom threshold for most clothing.




PPE, the last refuge of rank mediocrity and the professional political class.

They say a First in PPE, is equivalent to getting a lower second in any other Oxford degree course.



One luxury watch, or spend the afternoon in a state of high anxiety in case you spill some BBQ sauce or red wine on your outfit.
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Most of my shirts don't last more than a year or two (the more expensive the fabric, the shorter it lasts). The elbows inevitably wear out and develop holes. Apparently, it used to be a mark of pride back in the 80s, a sign that one was hard working. Newbies (or slackers) would eventually take a razor blade to their shirt sleeves to mimic the natural wear of being on the phone lots with one's elbows on the desk.
 
Monkeyface said:
Most of my shirts don't last more than a year or two (the more expensive the fabric, the shorter it lasts). The elbows inevitably wear out and develop holes. Apparently, it used to be a mark of pride back in the 80s, a sign that one was hard working. Newbies (or slackers) would eventually take a razor blade to their shirt sleeves to mimic the natural wear of being on the phone lots with one's elbows on the desk.
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That cardigan is the most ridiculous item I've seen from Crompton. I've to say that I like to read Crompton's blog and I like most pieces he reviews, and to some extent, his style, shilling apart.
 
Monkeyface said:
Most of my shirts don't last more than a year or two (the more expensive the fabric, the shorter it lasts). The elbows inevitably wear out and develop holes. Apparently, it used to be a mark of pride back in the 80s, a sign that one was hard working. Newbies (or slackers) would eventually take a razor blade to their shirt sleeves to mimic the natural wear of being on the phone lots with one's elbows on the desk.
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Not quite sure that was the mark of pride back in the 80s. It was all about being flash and brash laced with some power dressing back then. If you could sup 10 pints of lager that was an added bonus. Of course you had the cretins in Donkey jackets and West German army surplus sourced from Army and Navy stores. And then there was the beginning of the shell suit hip hop revolution.

According to one of my colleagues, it's currently a big thing for London youth to sport their Dad's old frayed T&A shirts.
 
aristoi bcn said:
That cardigan is the most ridiculous item I've seen from Crompton. I've to say that I like to read Crompton's blog and I like most pieces he reviews, and to some extent, his style, shilling apart.
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If you're blogging on meanswear, after a time, accusations and perception of shilling is inevitable. Unless you're thrifting everything like the old Afforable Wardrobe blog.
 
Lord Buckley said:
Not quite sure that was the mark of pride back in the 80s. It was all about being flash and brash laced with some power dressing back then. If you could sup 10 pints of lager that was an added bonus. Of course you had the cretins in Donkey jackets and West German army surplus sourced from Army and Navy stores. And then there was the beginning of the shell suit hip hop revolution.

According to one of my colleagues, it's currently a big thing for London youth to sport their Dad's old frayed T&A shirts.
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I'm talking 80s-90s Wall Street.
 
I've never worn out elbows on a shirt. Weird. Foxing on collars maybe. Or in the good old bad old days cigarette burn holes.
 
If you start reviewing off-the-peg high street design cardigans on a 'classic style' blog, you may as well start reviewing shell suits.
 
Golden Shears started off as an award for classical sartorial workmanship, but it soon turned into an award for design. Male haute couture (and now, haute couture for women too). So there really isn't anything that rewards excellence in classical tailoring any more. It's sad.

Oh and the magazine Savile Row identified Jodie Kidd as Kate Moss in the caption. Freudian slip, intentional gaffe, or some more sinister thing?
 
Monkeyface said:
Is that a waistcoat or is he extrapolating the high rise trend to the extreme? If it's the latter I kinda appreciate the absurdity.
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It's a dungaree. He wanted to make a suit inspired by workwear.

I just don't know. You have to look like his model to carry off such a thing. Untermenschen like me look far better in your bog-standard Savile Row suit, that once-proud article much derided by the likes of Crompton for being "behind".
 
TheUntermensch said:
It's a dungaree. He wanted to make a suit inspired by workwear.

I just don't know. You have to look like his model to carry off such a thing. Untermenschen like me look far better in your bog-standard Savile Row suit, that once-proud article much derided by the likes of Crompton for being "behind".
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Don't worry. Give it a few years and the award will be won by a transgender representative of an ethnic minority.
Maybe that's why Savile Row is behind? If they let some weirdos win for the sake of virtue signalling it's over.
Not that it is any better in Germany, though. The best you can hope for now is mediocrity. You can't tell people directly that their work is rubbish or you'll hurt their "feelings".
So everything is "supi" and "ganz toll", which is watering down the once high standards.
 
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Someone has been taking style cues from AAS.
There's something iffy going on with that right hand, too.

As an aside, what is the deal with the high necked t-shirts/undershirts? In this age of tie-less office wear, why make the neckline so clearly visible? Do they actually serve their stated purpose? Isn't it just one extra layer to make you hotter and so the sweat is just going to soak on through anyway? Also, doesn't it just hike up and create an unseemly bulge around the waste area?

On DW we seem to have a reasonable representation of Eurotrash, remnants of the Commonwealth and our American brethren who most seem to favour this look the most. I'd be interested to hear if it's the done thing where you're from or not.

In my own experience, it wasn't really the done thing at all In Australia or New Zealand except for the odd wrong 'un.
 
foxandhound said:
As an aside, what is the deal with the high necked t-shirts/undershirts? In this age of tie-less office wear, why make the neckline so clearly visible? Do they actually serve their stated purpose? Isn't it just one extra layer to make you hotter and so the sweat is just going to soak on through anyway? Also, doesn't it just hike up and create an unseemly bulge around the waste area?

On DW we seem to have a reasonable representation of Eurotrash, remnants of the Commonwealth and our American brethren who most seem to favour this look the most. I'd be interested to hear if it's the done thing where you're from or not.

In my own experience, it wasn't really the done thing at all In Australia or New Zealand except for the odd wrong 'un.
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It's an American thing alright, but it does have use. A t-shirt underneath a white shirt will extend the life of the shirt somewhat by resisting the yellow stains under the armpits. If you sweat a lot the t-shirts soak up the sweat and keep it from saturating the shirt. These days, if I am going to wear a t-shirt underneath a shirt sans tie, I will make sure it's a v-neck so that it doesn't show. A high neck t-shirt works okay with a casual button down though.
 
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FriendCustomer said:
Andy poopart LOL check out the other people at this wine country event.

Context is all wrong, doesn't need suits for work or for his cali lifestyle living in burbs with China massage parlor wife.
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Can you imagine being their neighbor and seeing their photo pose peacock routine every morning while you walk your dog / bring up the garage pail from the curb / put the kids on the school bus? Talk about weird vibes to start the day...
 
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Monkeyface said:
Disagreeable because of the context. It was over 40C and over 90% humidity in Kyoto. There's no way he wore that suit and tie longer than the 15 minutes required for the photo shoot before he was completely drenched. It's fake and inauthentic. Everyone else wears shorts and short sleeve tees and even then doesn't spend much time outside during the day because of the heat.

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Didn't you hear, linen keeps you cool?
 
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