Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

Pimpernel Smith said:
Dreadful:

''Key to dressing well is complimenting the people you are with and the place you are in. It is question of politeness.'' What kind of cuck dresses to compliment his work colleagues, is he their bitch? One should dress to express their individuality, the gravitas of their position, or in a group the elan and esprit de corps. To dress to blend in is, unless one is on a spying mission, not a good idea.

This is just pure subjective opinion, whilst you can't argue against personal preference, you can wear cream coloured trousers to the office and spectators if the heat is on in the summer especially in tropical zones: '' But you’re never going to be able to dress like Jay Gatsby. Give up on that dream now. Abandon cream trousers, double-breasted waistcoats and spectator shoes.

Instead, take pleasure in clothes that are just as beautiful, but more appropriate to how and where you work. The subtle colours of Harris tweed; the patina of a well-loved split-toe derby; or a coat in a casual fabric but beautiful cut.''

''So while I love dressing up a bit for menswear events, being in an office every day quickly brings me down to earth. I learn to push things a little bit, but not too far. To wear a jacket and perhaps a tie, but rarely a jacket, tie and handkerchief together. And always to make them a little more subdued, elegant and subtle in their style.'' What he's saying here is that he's really playing dress-up to emulate the adults. He wouldn't dream of wearing a jacket, tie and how very risky a handkerchief together. No, when he's in the office it's a Lacoste polo and RL chinos less he exposes himself as an effeminate nancy boy. Again the subtext of wanting to blend in the background.

''Today, negative reactions tend to be the basic ones from guys saying something is a little ‘effeminate’ - like the tote bag mentioned above. '' Correct: tote bags unless you've been shopping and picked them up in the shop are effeminate. Get used to it.

''If being a gentleman means being polite, considerate, caring and discerning, then it is very important. If it means smoking cigars, drinking cocktails and driving sports cars, then it is the least important thing in the world.'' I think he's mixing being a man with being a woman. Part of being a gentleman, does indeed involve aspiring at least in spirit of enjoying fast cars, cocktail bars and getting your kicks. Women never respect the wall flower who is the perfect gentleman and has no spunk.

''But I’d say it’s probably better to look at your absolute disposable income. So after you’ve paid for mortgage, food, travel, utilities and everything else (for you and your family). I’d say I spend about 60% of that disposable income on clothes.'' Ridiculous answer. Depends how much you earn and want you want.
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Spot on Buckley. What a load of horse shit his definition of gentelman is. This is why I believe the good bastards on FNB coined the term igent many moons ago as a reaction to the sorry Ask Andy gentelman with their politeness and horror at the declining dress standards at the local chain restaurant. What about the sporting life, horses, gambling, duels, sporting women, buggering boys, drinking, smoking, strolling the boulevards, squandering fortunes...
 
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FriendCustomer said:
Spot on Buckley. What a load of horse shit his definition of gentelman is. This is why I believe the good bastards on FNB coined the term igent many moons ago as a reaction to the sorry Ask Andy gentelman with their politeness and horror at the declining dress standards at the local chain restaurant. What about the sporting life, horses, gambling duels, sporting women, buggering boys, drinking, smoking, strolling the boulevards, squandering fortunes...
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I have to disagree in that I don't see all that stuff as part of being a gentleman, or at least that's simply what I was taught. You're definining upper class and not every upper class dude is a gentleman. I've met many who are not. But then again this is more of a semantic thing. The horses, fast cars, cigars, I see it as something people with high class aspire to, but gentleman is not the same as high class in my dictionary.
 
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FriendCustomer said:
Spot on Buckley. What a load of horse shit his definition of gentelman is. This is why I believe the good bastards on FNB coined the term igent many moons ago as a reaction to the sorry Ask Andy gentelman with their politeness and horror at the declining dress standards at the local chain restaurant. What about the sporting life, horses, gambling, duels, sporting women, buggering boys, drinking, smoking, strolling the boulevards, squandering fortunes...
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You’re not a Tory party whip by any chance?
http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/201...-bbc-documentary-tim-fortescue_n_7933432.html

Hanging’s too good for them etc....
 
FriendCustomer said:
Spot on Buckley. What a load of horse shit his definition of gentelman is. This is why I believe the good bastards on FNB coined the term igent many moons ago as a reaction to the sorry Ask Andy gentelman with their politeness and horror at the declining dress standards at the local chain restaurant. What about the sporting life, horses, gambling, duels, sporting women, buggering boys, drinking, smoking, strolling the boulevards, squandering fortunes...
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Indeed, it's that Charles Bukowksi's style is the answer to everything moment.

No wonder Crompy is having doubts, he has arrived at the status of alleged menswear style influencer, several books on the subject and yet....he's fielding questions on is dressing well effeminate? What the....

If he had any success cutting his own swathe through the sartorial forest everyone of his disciples would be aligned to the mission of sharp dressing and be confident that dressing well was not in anyway effeminate. He seems to be back tracking all over the place. It's all ad copy and not how he really lives his life.

Ultimately, I think his statements prove he is playing dressing up, it's just a game and he doesn't really feel comfortable in the zone of style guru. As actually he isn't one.

rdiaz said:
I have to disagree in that I don't see all that stuff as part of being a gentleman, or at least that's simply what I was taught. You're definining upper class and not every upper class dude is a gentleman. I've met many who are not. But then again this is more of a semantic thing. The horses, fast cars, cigars, I see it as something people with high class aspire to, but gentleman is not the same as high class in my dictionary.
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There is much in common between the upper and toiling classes, love of gambling for one and brutralized upbringings. Gentleman can be of all classes, I see no class distinction here. But what we are seeing is the promotion of a gentleman as a dainty slightly effete and affected character. A gentleman should be comfortable in himself and as above if you need to ask the question do a I look effeminate in this? Well, you're well off the track.

A marker of gentleman is being able to demonstrate dictum meum pactum.
 
Pimpernel Smith said:
Indeed, it's that Charles Bukowksi's style is the answer to everything moment.

No wonder Crompy is having doubts, he has arrived at the status of alleged menswear style influencer, several books on the subject and yet....he's fielding questions on is dressing well effeminate? What the....

If he had any success cutting his own swathe through the sartorial forest everyone of his disciples would be aligned to the mission of sharp dressing and be confident that dressing well was not in anyway effeminate. He seems to be back tracking all over the place. It's all ad copy and not how he really lives his life.

Ultimately, I think his statements prove he is playing dressing up, it's just a game and he doesn't really feel comfortable in the zone of style guru. As actually he isn't one.



There is much in common between the upper and toiling classes, love of gambling for one and brutralized upbringings. Gentleman can be of all classes, I see no class distinction here. But what we are seeing is the promotion of a gentleman as a dainty slightly effete and affected character. A gentleman should be comfortable in himself and as above if you need to ask the question do a I look effeminate in this? Well, you're well off the track.

A marker of gentleman is being able to demonstrate dictum meum pactum.
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Yes, I agree on that. I'm just talking about those high class entertainments, which are not what make a gentleman (although I don't see anything wrong in a gentleman enjoying them if he can).
 
Pimpernel Smith said:
A gentleman should be comfortable in himself and as above if you need to ask the question do a I look effeminate in this? Well, you're well off the track.

A marker of gentleman is being able to demonstrate dictum meum pactum.
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If we came to this, it's the fault of blimmin' Crompton and his ilk. Time was when gentlemen, by definition, were raised to make war (and kill and maim, and possibly get maimed or get killed in turn). They could be dandies and dress up all they liked, because their trade was testosterone incarnate. This was largely true of the merchant class as well, especially when they began to settle and trade in places teeming with savages of all sorts etc.

Now we commute to chic Mayfair, or the City, and work in offices, sitting at a desk. If we didn't dress up, we'd still be effeminate. The iGent crowd and #influencers are pushing this image of the Ideal Male (the 'alpha male') that's so profoundly wrong it borders on Freudian penis hatred (check out iamalpham). Strip away the bullshit and you'll see it for what it is: insecurity in a world where the role of males has been perverted. Who needs feminists when we can do it ourselves?

Hence the soul-searching about the definition of gentleman in the 21st century.

As for myself, I haven't a fekking clue. All I know is I'm not a gentleman.
 
TheUntermensch said:
If we came to this, it's the fault of blimmin' Crompton and his ilk. Time was when gentlemen, by definition, were raised to make war (and kill and maim, and possibly get maimed or get killed in turn). They could be dandies and dress up all they liked, because their trade was testosterone incarnate. This was largely true of the merchant class as well, especially when they began to settle and trade in places teeming with savages of all sorts etc.

Now we commute to chic Mayfair, or the City, and work in offices, sitting at a desk. If we didn't dress up, we'd still be effeminate. The iGent crowd and #influencers are pushing this image of the Ideal Male (the 'alpha male') that's so profoundly wrong it borders on Freudian penis hatred (check out iamalpham). Strip away the bullshit and you'll see it for what it is: insecurity in a world where the role of males has been perverted. Who needs feminists when we can do it ourselves?

Hence the soul-searching about the definition of gentleman in the 21st century.

As for myself, I haven't a fekking clue. All I know is I'm not a gentleman.
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Yes, you are Untermensch
 
CesareRomiti said:
Careful
You might get banned for this
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Rambo and this???4545 b
 
I have the same top top elite build as SC: skinny waist; large thighs; sloping shoulders. I've slowly come to accept that light, unstructured stuff generally looks terrible on me, unless they're larger ivy/sack-style jackets. I started as an ultra-skinny, lanky teen then slowly put on way too much weight over uni (while cycling a lot) and eventually lost it again very rapidly, probably quicker than I should have.

I understand his points about dressing in tune with others around you (especially in the software field, any jacket wearing is seen as very strange) but I actually find that wearing a full suit, with/without tie, attracts less me attention than when wearing a jacket and odd trouser combo. Maybe because the latter is seen as more strange or more obviously 'dressed-up' in the UK than elsewhere?
 
FriendCustomer said:
Spot on Buckley. What a load of horse shit his definition of gentelman is. This is why I believe the good bastards on FNB coined the term igent many moons ago as a reaction to the sorry Ask Andy gentelman with their politeness and horror at the declining dress standards at the local chain restaurant. What about the sporting life, horses, gambling, duels, sporting women, buggering boys, drinking, smoking, strolling the boulevards, squandering fortunes...
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The iGent and his more recent incarnation the #Gent© idea of what constitutes a 'gentleman' is a very middle class one...




...lower middle class
 
“The pyjamas for example (shown below) have delicate hand-sewn buttonholes, instantly elevating them above most else in London.

The rest is machine made, but they’re decent value at €284, and there are four sizes across a few blues and blue stripes.” Crompton.

284 euros is decent value? I doubt Noel Coward would worry about pyjama buttonholes.
 
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Kingstonian said:
“The pyjamas for example (shown below) have delicate hand-sewn buttonholes, instantly elevating them above most else in London.
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God spare us the photoshoot. Notice, too, how he slips meaningless sales bullshit into his text. "Crisp printed silk". As opposed to what? Flaccid printed silk? "The blades hang rather than flop".

As for the rest, Crompton has gone from arbiter elegantiae (his words) to shopkeeper. Sic transit. See you there.
 
How this tramp has managed to get such an adorning following will always remain a mystery to me. I suppose the world is full of people with too much money and no taste but the size of his fan club is impressive.
As for that thing on his head ... words fail me.
 
Great White Snark said:
How this tramp has managed to get such an adorning following will always remain a mystery to me. I suppose the world is full of people with too much money and no taste but the size of his fan club is impressive.
As for that thing on his head ... words fail me.
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The same could be said for In Stitches who sought to cross the line and be seen as an "expert dresser" in both CM and SWD.

If you have the $$ to acquire and you post oodles of pics to inspire you too can become a darling as long as you have the ability to figure out how to match colours.

Name brand recognition/appeal also carries the day.

He IS and Craptom would not be perceived as style influencers if their wardrobes were from JC Penney
 
He's gonna have fun correcting them...
btw double deep pleats with such a tapered leg look ridiculous IMHO. Totally iGent. I bet the waistband is gonna have all kinds of flourishes.
 
formby said:
The iGent and his more recent incarnation the #Gent© idea of what constitutes a 'gentleman' is a very middle class one...




...lower middle class
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Lumpen class, period.

TheUntermensch said:
God spare us the photoshoot. Notice, too, how he slips meaningless sales bullshit into his text. "Crisp printed silk". As opposed to what? Flaccid printed silk? "The blades hang rather than flop".

As for the rest, Crompton has gone from arbiter elegantiae (his words) to shopkeeper. Sic transit. See you there.
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Shopkeeper?

Person who works on a clothes shop?

He only has gone from shill to official buffon of the Neapolitan factories with permission of the arstocrat from Madrid, whose LangaTanga pics are on the walls of the High Tailoring schools as examples of badspoke to teach the pupils.

He reached to the top! Being on the walls of the schools of tailoring ( only as as bad example)
 
Scherensammler said:
Yes, yes! But what will he be this time? Oh, the suspense is killing me!!!
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It'd be a good thing for him to be patient and keep his old corrupted industrialist identity. Too much transformations in a short time can provoke severe schizo damages. Is the true Lumpen, don't you think?
 
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wtf is the point of a handsewn buttonhole on pajamas no one sees. Wasn't Craptom a modest, mid class rooted gent according to himself? Why pay for such superfluous luxuries?
 
rdiaz said:
wtf is the point of a handsewn buttonhole on pajamas no one sees. Wasn't Craptom a modest, mid class rooted gent according to himself? Why pay for such superfluous luxuries?
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Because they're being sold in his pop-up shop. I told you he's a shopkeeper now. You tell me how anyone can be a reviewer when they're selling the very things they're reviewing.
 
How does he keep up his pretence of being an ordinary working schmo turning in to the office every day when he’s off swanning around the tailoring houses of Europe and beyond every other week? Fuck me, they must have some liberal vacation policy at his place.

The fella is a complete fantasist IMO. Every post of his I read he appears to be drifting further and further away from reality and deeper into this mythical fantasy world he’s created for himself.

Jealous? Me? Well I wouldn’t mind being well paid to assemble a collection of clothes made personally for me, but at the expense of abdicating my entire personality I reckon it would be a hard bargain that he’s made.
 
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