Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

[Jupiter]

I like the term, craptomless.

Great showpiece by Lumpen as always but he really should enrich his game.

 

[TheUntermensch]

Does Cifonelli still give Parisian Gentleman free suits and jackets?
I may be naive but do they really need Jacomet to advertise their house? I think that Crompton also published an article on Cifonelli.

"An" article? Make that multiple articles, and multiple free suits. Crompers worships Cifonelli. He's forever going on about how they invest so much in design (what investment? And what design? The kind that doesn't flatter the wearer? A short man in a Cifonelli looks like a teabag in a Batman costume.)

There's something deeply off-putting about the Cifonelli cousins. I've met both. Both dark and glowering, and both insufferable snobs. Their suits are stiff and ostentatious in that Continental celeb way - the suit wears the man, not the other way round. The end result is, frankly, quite ridiculous. But everyone's in awe because Cifonelli wearers are all loaded. Yes, right. New money too.

Jacomet, on the other hand, is surprisingly down to earth. Botoxed to the gills, to be sure, but a lot more congenial than you'd give him credit for.

 

[rdiaz]

I hate Cifonelli. Not surprising as I'm all for soft tailoring. Jacomet always looks armored and unable to move in his suits.

 

[rdiaz]

I think the "suits wear the man" observation is spot on. A RTW suit may look phenomenal and even as good as bespoke in a robopose if the fit is good, but bespoke really shines when the wearer is moving. That's why watching a Fred Astaire or Gene Kelly movie is pure joy for the sartorially inclined, and that's why Cifonelli looks like absolute crap imho, no matter how good the handwork is.

 

[Lumpen]

that knot is almost as big as his ego

He is another fake tailor who has a shop on Sevilla and other in Madrid, mtm made in Pakistan.

Can you diversify your targets? The Langatetanga game is too easy now. Same for Hugo and Craptom.

I am sorry, but my doctors said to avoid all kind of stress, so by any reason I would read any random blog to get ridiculous pics. My health is pretty bad.

I even got too much reading the economical press daily and watch the assholerat even writtes his current crap there. Another newspaper I can´t read anymore.

I also never read on WAYWRN sections for the same reasons.

 

[rdiaz]

He is another fake tailor who has a shop on Sevilla and other in Madrid, mtm made in Pakistan

Yeah, I've known of him for a long time. It looks like anyone can be a tailor now. And I feel sorry for the poor beginners who stumble upon his youtube channel, filled with poor and tasteless advice.

 

[TheUntermensch]

The forum mascot wearing a Cifonelli double-breasted jacket IN DENIM. Because when you have plenty of money to burn, you burn it.

There should be a law limiting the width of lapels.

 

[Scherensammler]

The forum mascot wearing a Cifonelli double-breasted jacket IN DENIM. Because when you have plenty of money to burn, you burn it.

There should be a law limiting the width of lapels.

It's a DB, so the lapels can be a bit wider.
I'm just shocked how awful and blunt their collar is.
FTR: I prefer the LKP style hairless chest over this display of "manliness"!
YMMV!!!

 

[Lumpen]

This pics are worsing my health.

 

[Lumpen]

Yeah, I've known of him for a long time. It looks like anyone can be a tailor now. And I feel sorry for the poor beginners who stumble upon his youtube channel, filled with poor and tasteless advice.

That idiot was recommending 6 cm width ties, when Sarto wrote, any serious tiemaker does that size, I have worked with the best.

He answered, name some

Sarto says: Borrelli, Kiton masters, Marinella masters, need more or prefer Gucci and so on?

The tacky affeminate went angry.

 

[formby]

The forum mascot wearing a Cifonelli double-breasted jacket IN DENIM. Because when you have plenty of money to burn, you burn it.

There should be a law limiting the width of lapels.

I actually quite like the look of that material, not keen on the cut mind.

 

[viaattovannucci]

The forum mascot wearing a Cifonelli double-breasted jacket IN DENIM. Because when you have plenty of money to burn, you burn it.

There should be a law limiting the width of lapels.

There are no words to explain my hatred for this unbottoned unjacket. I also hate the “heroic shoulders.”

 

[CesareRomiti]

The forum mascot wearing a Cifonelli double-breasted jacket IN DENIM. Because when you have plenty of money to burn, you burn it.

There should be a law limiting the width of lapels.

This cut might look good for a dinner jacket, however that collar is highly haram

 

[Lumpen]

For everyclick to his blog, you are making him richer.

I ask for the ban of ANY LINK to those blogs or permanent ban for the delinquents.

RULE NUMBER 1

 

[rdiaz]

That denim jacket is a monster.
What do those dudes put in the sleevehead? A cucumber?

 

[fxh]

This pics are worsing my health.

..

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

The forum mascot wearing a Cifonelli double-breasted jacket IN DENIM. Because when you have plenty of money to burn, you burn it.

There should be a law limiting the width of lapels.

A mere crass imitation, a contrived deceitful attempt at channeling our favorite crooner:

 

[Nashav]

That denim jacket is a monster.
What do those dudes put in the sleevehead? A cucumber?

Does Sexton not have a similar type of shoulder as a signature from his house?

 

[rdiaz]

Does Sexton not have a similar type of shoulder as a signature from his house?

Sexton's is roped as well, but I'd say not as much
At least his jackets don't look like stiff cardboard, though I don't like his silhouette all that much either

 

[FriendCustomer]

Does Sexton not have a similar type of shoulder as a signature from his house?

similar, but really only at a very surface level, and shoulders aside their overall style is quite different. sexton is a much better cutter than the cousins, brilliant in fact, and to my eyes his style is much more refined and rooted in classic masculine elegance. even if you don't care for his style, which i don't, there is a world of difference between him and the Cifo cousins.

 

[rdiaz]

similar, but really only at a very surface level, and shoulders aside their overall style is quite different. sexton is a much better cutter than the cousins, brilliant in fact, and to my eyes his style is much more refined and rooted in classic masculine elegance. even if you don't care for his style, which i don't, there is a world of difference between him and the Cifo cousins.

View attachment 27236

The picture says it all, just look at lorenzos jacket - how come a bespoke jacket's lapels bow like that when just slightly moving his arms. The armhole seems deep (probably due to 10 kg of wadding at the shoulders) and overall it looks stiff and hard to move in. If the jackets only look good when standing still he'd be better off making RTW.

 

[Jupiter]

similar, but really only at a very surface level, and shoulders aside their overall style is quite different. sexton is a much better cutter than the cousins, brilliant in fact, and to my eyes his style is much more refined and rooted in classic masculine elegance. even if you don't care for his style, which i don't, there is a world of difference between him and the Cifo cousins.

View attachment 27236

The Jap is the best.

 

[Jupiter]

The picture says it all, just look at lorenzos jacket - how come a bespoke jacket's lapels bow like that when just slightly moving his arms. The armhole seems deep (probably due to 10 kg of wadding at the shoulders) and overall it looks stiff and hard to move in. If the jackets only look good when standing still he'd be better off making RTW.

Super heavy padded/extended shoulders + tight chest (Cifo house cut) = lapels bowing.

 

[Kingstonian]

Cromps has new 8500 Euro coat which even he admits is very expensive. He waxes lyrical about its great styling while photos show him wearing it with a little woolly hat.

His New Year Resolution? How far can I take it with all this hugely overpriced stuff.

 

[rdiaz]

Super heavy padded/extended shoulders + tight chest (Cifo house cut) = lapels bowing.

Shoulder extension doesn't have anything to do with bowing lapels, but tight chest does.
If you want to cut a lean chest and allow mobility the armhole should be high and wide and that's not the case...

 

[Jupiter]

Shoulder extension doesn't have anything to do with bowing lapels, but tight chest does.
If you want to cut a lean chest and allow mobility the armhole should be high and wide and that's not the case...

If I had 6k to burn in a parisian suit I'd go to Camps, not to Cifo. Too much ostentation in their cut. I remember how the little and skinny Paul Lux looked like a shrimp in their house DB.

 

[FriendCustomer]

If I had 6k to burn in a parisian suit I'd go to Camps, not to Cifo. Too much ostentation in their cut. I remember how the little and skinny Paul Lux looked like a shrimp in their house DB.

workmanship aside, both are quite unappealing stylistically. their current cuts are only a shadow of their former glories, and seem to be the result of years and years of adapting to featherweight cloths for showbiz, African and Middle Eastern clients. i think it is no coincidence that french tailoring remains relatively unknown and never has or had the broad appeal of British or Italian tailoring.

 

[FriendCustomer]

If I had 6k to burn in a parisian suit I'd go to Camps, not to Cifo. Too much ostentation in their cut. I remember how the little and skinny Paul Lux looked like a shrimp in their house DB.

paul doesnt look much better in camps :

his cloth choices probably don't help any. thats a 6k or 7 k suit? it looks mtm.
perhaps its his own fault. He looks like he could really benifit from a fuller chest and overall a more relaxed fit, but all of suits by all of his makers seem to be like this, so perhaps he insists its cut this way. in fact it all looks like severely altered RTW. the magic of bespoke has been stripped out, by an over interfering client is all i can gather.

 

[Jupiter]

workmanship aside, both are quite unappealing stylistically. their current cuts are only a shadow of their former glories, and seem to be the result of years and years of adapting to featherweight cloths for showbiz, African and Middle Eastern clients. i think it is no coincidence that french tailoring remains relatively unknown and never has or had the broad appeal of British or Italian tailoring.

I agree. Nevertheless, considered in a strictly conservative register and despite the neutral style and lack of vista of their housecut, Camps represents a respectable bespoke value. I'm not talking of their price which is insane. Interesting to notice that these two houses - Cifo and Camps - have been founded by Italians. Paris was, until the 1940 defeat, the main center of the bespoke market with London in Europe (with the presence of great Italian houses such as Caraceni) but France never developed a true bespoke culture of her own.

 

[Jupiter]

paul doesnt look much better in camps :
View attachment 27238

his cloth choices probably don't help any. thats a 6k or 7 k suit? it looks mtm.
perhaps its his own fault. He looks like he could really benifit from a fuller chest and overall a more relaxed fit, but all of suits be all of his makers seem to be like this, so perhaps he insists its cut this way. in fact it all looks like severely altered RTW. the magic of bespoke has been stripped out, by an over interfering client is all i can gather.

True. As I said precedently bespoke can't really transcend a body. He has super-narrow shoulders. Extended shoulders and a fuller cut could mitigate the problem but it won't solve the global balance of the suit. For example the best bespoke on the Finnish guy (don't remember his name) will never appear as good as an average bespoke on the Swedish guy (Weinas I think) with his Aryan body.

 

[FriendCustomer]

I agree. Nevertheless, considered in a strictly conservative register and despite the neutral style and lack of vista of their housecut, Camps represents a respectable bespoke value. I'm not talking of their price which is insane. Interesting to notice that these two houses - Cifo and Camps - have been founded by Italians. Paris was, until the 1940 defeat, the main center of the bespoke market with London in Europe (with the presence of great Italian houses such as Caraceni) but France never developed a true bespoke culture of her own.

I think Paris at one time made perfect sense as a convenient continental outpost for British and Italian tailoring, Pooles and other Brits also had outposts in Paris along with Cifo and Caraceni (both Roman).

 

[FriendCustomer]

True. As I said precedently bespoke can't really transcend a body. He has super-narrow shoulders. Extended shoulders and a fuller cut could mitigate the problem but it won't solve the global balance of the suit. For example the best bespoke on the Finnish guy (don't remember his name) won't never appear as good as an average bespoke on the Swedish guy (Weinas I think) with his Aryan body.

sure he will never look like an Adonis, but people with much worse bodies and shapes and deformities than Paul can look much more elegant and stylish in legit classic bespoke. i love the way proper bespoke looks on deformed men and old men and short men and very skinny men and fat men and all sorts of others, perhaps more than when i see it on a perfect man. I love extended shoulders, and shaped chests, draped chest, sharp waists, properly fitted collars, perfect sleeves, longer jackets and lower buttoning points than what is currently in fashion, beautifully shaped lapels, flared skirts, proper fitting trousers, double pleats etc...

 

[rdiaz]

paul doesnt look much better in camps :
View attachment 27238

his cloth choices probably don't help any. thats a 6k or 7 k suit? it looks mtm.
perhaps its his own fault. He looks like he could really benifit from a fuller chest and overall a more relaxed fit, but all of suits by all of his makers seem to be like this, so perhaps he insists its cut this way. in fact it all looks like severely altered RTW. the magic of bespoke has been stripped out, by an over interfering client is all i can gather.

I had some local MTM made in the past and it looked better than that. I bet it's not the tailor's fault indeed.

 

[Jupiter]

I had some local MTM made in the past and it looked better than that. I bet it's not the tailor's fault indeed.

It's the tailor fault. On the pic the chest and the waist are cutted too tight. Maybe he asked them because, as an immature man winning a lot in a Luxemburgo consultancy job, he loves this slim style.

 

[rdiaz]

I just googled Camps de Luca and while slim, most of the stuff is still acceptable. So I bet the tailor just did what he was asked by a perhaps too vicious customer.

 

[CesareRomiti]

True. As I said precedently bespoke can't really transcend a body. He has super-narrow shoulders. Extended shoulders and a fuller cut could mitigate the problem but it won't solve the global balance of the suit. For example the best bespoke on the Finnish guy (don't remember his name) won't never appear as good as an average bespoke on the Swedish guy (Weinas I think) with his Aryan body.

However mr schweinas is suffering from a severe case of gummy smile
He looks like a horse
About to neigh

love extended shoulders, and shaped chests, draped chest, sharp waists, properly fitted collars, perfect sleeves, longer jackets and lower buttoning points than what is currently in fashion, beautifully shaped lapels, flared skirts, proper fitting trousers, double pleats etc...

Master
You got me baitin

 

[formby]

similar, but really only at a very surface level, and shoulders aside their overall style is quite different. sexton is a much better cutter than the cousins, brilliant in fact, and to my eyes his style is much more refined and rooted in classic masculine elegance. even if you don't care for his style, which i don't, there is a world of difference between him and the Cifo cousins.

View attachment 27236

Sexton has a more structured shoulder from what I can gather, Crompton's suit jacket looks unstructured, or has little structure in that area.

Sexton is a wonderful cutter, one of the best. One of few bespoke tailors who can cut really beautiful clothes for women. In fact, I think, that's where he really showcases his talent.

IIRC, He trained Stella McCartney to cut and has, at one time or another, trained Davide Taub and Edwin Deboise.

I couldn't wear any of his tailoring though, as I'm too stocky.

Chittleborough & Morgan have a similar silhouette and style. They all 'pissed in the same pot' at one time.

Why Crompton insists on his jackets being cut with those shoulders is beyond me, they make him look slight, especially, when combined with the heavily roped shoulder in this jacket. Odd.

I'm intrigued by the material in Cromptons jacket though. I'd have styled it differently natch.

 

[TheUntermensch]

The picture says it all, just look at lorenzos jacket - how come a bespoke jacket's lapels bow like that when just slightly moving his arms. The armhole seems deep (probably due to 10 kg of wadding at the shoulders) and overall it looks stiff and hard to move in. If the jackets only look good when standing still he'd be better off making RTW.

Sexton makes a roped shoulder, but it's all within the canon of classical British style. Cifonelli's shoulder isn't just roped, it also seems to be rotated forwards, and the armhole is ridiculously small (or looks small - I'd have to dissect the jacket to be sure), with a tight chest. So the overall effect is to make the wearer look like they're holding their arms like a chimpanzee. Frankly, it's unattractive. It doesn't help that the gorge is somewhere around the earlobes. Look at Sexton's, and compare. The proportions are much better, and the suit doesn't stand out and overwhelm the wearer.

I've no doubt Cifonelli's workmanship is stratospherically superb. But that's about all that I can say.

 

[Jupiter]

Sexton makes a roped shoulder, but it's all within the canon of classical British style. Cifonelli's shoulder isn't just roped, it also seems to be rotated forwards, and the armhole is ridiculously small (or looks small - I'd have to dissect the jacket to be sure), with a tight chest. So the overall effect is to make the wearer look like they're holding their arms like a chimpanzee. Frankly, it's unattractive. It doesn't help that the gorge is somewhere around the earlobes. Look at Sexton's, and compare. The proportions are much better, and the suit doesn't stand out and overwhelm the wearer.

I've no doubt Cifonelli's workmanship is stratospherically superb. But that's about all that I can say.

Don't know about Sexton (what he wears himself looks good and understated compared with Cifo) but the Chittleborough&Morgan (quoted by formby ) cut is absolutely ridiculous with their exagerated pagoda shoulder. One of the worst bespoke I can dream of.

 

[TheUntermensch]

Good god.