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I don't think it's the rawness that makes them stiff so much as the starch. Have you tried washing them?
Let's Talk About Denim
- Thread starter Zé Ferreira
- Start date
robertito
Well-Known Member
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- 1,063
Well the whole idea was not to wash them for a while.
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14 is a bit heavier than normal so it will take a bit. Best to wear them around the house.
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I'm thinking about getting a pair of Gustin chinos. I have a few of their jeans and shirts and have been fairly happy with the quality-value. Does anyone have experience with their chinos? The straight leg version measurements look right to me.
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First, remove any Armani branding especially if you go to Napoli. If you don't a tall stork like creature wearing old Doc Martens will descend upon you and beat you to within an inch of your life. You will be confused because he will look Aryan but will speak Spanish
Wear them for three years. The stink will make you forget about how uncomfortable they are.
Pauly Chase
Hip Dairy Farmer
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Stiff = heavy starch. If you are hardcore, take a shower while wearing them. This will rid off the possible indigo bleed and wash away the unwanted starch. Let them mold to your legs and line dry. Afterwards wear them for awhile until they stretch out again, repeat the hot soak process.
To prevent loss of indigo dye, put some lemon juice or vinegar while hot soaking.
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- 9,073
anyone tried a simple home type/alterationist hack taking in waist /bum on jeans?
I've got 2 x pair of local jeans which I like OK - darkish but they seem to have stretched at least 1.5" in waist and the bum is baggy - I've no arse anyway so theres not much to fill them there. I've tried washing in hot water and putting them wet in hot dryer but not much happened.
I've thought of darts near side seams - other wise it just seems (seams hehe) too hard.
I've got 2 x pair of local jeans which I like OK - darkish but they seem to have stretched at least 1.5" in waist and the bum is baggy - I've no arse anyway so theres not much to fill them there. I've tried washing in hot water and putting them wet in hot dryer but not much happened.
I've thought of darts near side seams - other wise it just seems (seams hehe) too hard.
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If they're sanforized there is not much you can do. Especially if you're assless, you should look into shrink-to-fit denim.
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bump for
Journeyman
Journeyman
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bump for
Aha - I thought that there had to be a denim thread around here somewhere. Thanks for that!
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Happy to help. You thinking about buying a new pair?
Rain Man
Well-Known Member
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- 708
I have a pair of Joe's Jeans Brixtons that I had tailored at Nordstrom. I never skip leg day so I don't do the skinny jeans thing, but they don't look bad for being, well, snug. Insanely comfortable, though. My wife loves them, and I wore them to the office on Friday with a blazer, an OCBD, and a pair of fuck-if-I-know-the-name boots I bought in Sweden, and three different women complimented me on my jeans. So. . . something something nice ass deadlifts.
C
colco
Guest
when you say you had them tailored, what did you have done to them?
Rain Man
Well-Known Member
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I'm not quite sure tailored is the right word. Let's go with altered. I was kind of drunk and my wife was talking to the guy while I tried on pants and they both ogled me. I know the store hemmed them and I believe they took them in at the waist because they were gapping. But the ones that fit my waist looked unsettlingly metrosexual across the buttockular area.
C
colco
Guest
C
colco
Guest
Grand Potentate
what are some good denim options for a guy who wants to wear them with jackets?
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Gustin makes good stuf on the cheap. I'm a Levis man if you want a cheap starter pair. Since you're in NY you could check out these shops:
Blue in Green . . . A men's lifestyle store
Self Edge - Lower East Side - New York, NY
Both are fantastic shops. Kiya at Self Edge is a cool dude. He sells Iron Heart jeans which are an addiction.
C
colco
Guest
Levis would be good to start I'd say. I assume raw and selvedge are synonomous?
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If you are confident you know your sizing, the Gustin Japan17 currently funding is a great deal. Straight leg is still slim for a grown-up.
C
colco
Guest
I am not confident in my sizing. Denim continues to flummox....
C
colco
Guest
besides Gustin seems communist. I want to give my money to big corporate chains please.
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C
colco
Guest
I don't know what this means. Is he a Red?
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The trolls are a collective.
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doubtful I'll ever get around to shrink to my dink soaking them. I'd let them go for $150 + shipping ($360 retail)
106BSP - Slim Straight - Self Edge
Will shrink to a 34" waist according to Kiya. I'll second
Grand Potentate
's opinion on him. Helpful dudeDescription from the website
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION-
The new version of the 106BSP jean is a slim fit jean with a straight leg. They've added back pocket lining, new arcuate stitching, and a very impressive new method of extending the life on the front pockets which we've never seen on a pair of jeans before. They've hand felled a secondary piece of denim on the inside opening of the front pockets and stitched it with cotton/poly thread, a true evolution for the way jeans are constructed.
The denim on these is a new denim which has impressed us here to say the least. It's similar to Flat Head's 3XXX denim in terms of how hairy it becomes after the first soak but has a deeper indigo color straight off. The dye method yields an extremely high contrast fade which we'd only seen this intense before on Flat Head's denim, yet it's quite different considering it's pure indigo and the cotton is from Zimbabwe.
Disclaimer: These jeans are made of unsanforized denim, when washed the denim will shrink 2.5" in the waist, 3" in the length (inseam), .6" in the leg opening, .5" in the rise, and .8" in the thigh. Please keep this in mind when choosing your size. The denim will also stretch in the waist up to 1" after approximately 30 wears. Basic rule of thumb here is that these will shrink TO the tagged waist size.
SPECIFICATIONS-
- 13.75oz Rope Dyed Japanese Selvedge Unsanforized Denim
- Zimbabwe Cotton Fiber Denim
- Double Length Knife Pocket (Coin Pocket)
- Hidden Rivets
- Lined Back Pockets
- Universal Gripper Zipper Fly
- Black Dyed Cowhide Leather Tag
- Red RJB Embroidered Logo
- Copper RJB Rivets
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- 40,417
Holy shit! Who are you and what did you do with Thruth?View attachment 8759 View attachment 8760 View attachment 8761 View attachment 8762 View attachment 8763 View attachment 8764 View attachment 8765 View attachment 8766 View attachment 8767 View attachment 8768 If anyone is interested, I have a pair of NWT Selfedge x Real Japan Blue 106BSP in 34x38
doubtful I'll ever get around to shrink to my dink soaking them. I'd let them go for $150 + shipping ($360 retail)
106BSP - Slim Straight - Self Edge
Will shrink to a 34" waist according to Kiya. I'll second
Description from the website
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION-
The new version of the 106BSP jean is a slim fit jean with a straight leg. They've added back pocket lining, new arcuate stitching, and a very impressive new method of extending the life on the front pockets which we've never seen on a pair of jeans before. They've hand felled a secondary piece of denim on the inside opening of the front pockets and stitched it with cotton/poly thread, a true evolution for the way jeans are constructed.
The denim on these is a new denim which has impressed us here to say the least. It's similar to Flat Head's 3XXX denim in terms of how hairy it becomes after the first soak but has a deeper indigo color straight off. The dye method yields an extremely high contrast fade which we'd only seen this intense before on Flat Head's denim, yet it's quite different considering it's pure indigo and the cotton is from Zimbabwe.
Disclaimer: These jeans are made of unsanforized denim, when washed the denim will shrink 2.5" in the waist, 3" in the length (inseam), .6" in the leg opening, .5" in the rise, and .8" in the thigh. Please keep this in mind when choosing your size. The denim will also stretch in the waist up to 1" after approximately 30 wears. Basic rule of thumb here is that these will shrink TO the tagged waist size.
SPECIFICATIONS-
- 13.75oz Rope Dyed Japanese Selvedge Unsanforized Denim
- Zimbabwe Cotton Fiber Denim
- Double Length Knife Pocket (Coin Pocket)
- Hidden Rivets
- Lined Back Pockets
- Universal Gripper Zipper Fly
- Black Dyed Cowhide Leather Tag
- Red RJB Embroidered Logo
- Copper RJB Rivets
- Messages
- 22,283
I'm like peeling an onion. Many layers and I will make you cry. Shovel shit in The Flat Head, Gotta Roll, Yellow Rat
That's why I always have
Pauly Chase
's back
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What are these things?
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Gotta Roll is a sub-brand of The Flat Head. Nice shirts. They do denim as well.
Yellow Rat is a brand by a Japanese cat. Throwback 50's and 60's vibe.
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Huh. Learned about 2 new brands and that you were a dirty hipster in disguise.
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That is why I hassle the Son-in-law so much. As the Highlander says "there can only be one"
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Your inner man-bun just aches to be freed!
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- 22,283
No. Still draw the line at that shit. Pisses me off that plaid has been co-opted by these wankers. Why they gotta steal my steez?
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- 9,073
Fashioning blue-collars: chambray shirts and indigo-dyed workwear.
March 20, 2014 6.06am AEDT Author. Elizabeth Dori Tunstall. Associate Professor, Design Anthropology, Swinburne University of Technology
Indigo dyed threads. kolokolchiki/Flickr
Australian anthropologist Michael Taussig writes:
To slip into the blue of your blue jeans is to slip into a surprising and unexpected encounter with the past … but without your having the faintest idea of what you are slipping into.
The more than 5,000-years-old history of indigo-dyed clothing frames a world history of globalisation, labour, fashion, and the best and worst of human nature. From the early to mid 1900s, indigo blue clothing was deeply associated with the working classes, such as the “blue collars” of Australia and American “tradies". Analysing the values, design, and experience of the blue-collar chambray shirt for the working peoples of Australia and America provides a basis for the shifting views of blue-collar workers today.
Of American and Australian blue collars
The first mention of the term “blue collar” in print is attributed to a 1924 Alden Iowa newspaper, The Times, which stated:
If we may call professions and office positions white collar jobs, we may call the trades blue collar jobs.
Blue-collar jobs refer to occupations requiring skilled labour, often manual and industrial in nature. In Australia, these include the categories of skilled labourers (ex. from doggers to sandblasters), tradies (ex. from builders to technicians), plant operators, miners, and drillers. Hong Kong researcher Yim Chim Richard Wong, states:
The industrial worker became the “social question” of 1900 because he was the first lower-class person in history to gain the opportunity to organize and stay organised.
At the turn of the 20th century, the demarcation of the interests and cultures of blue-collared versus white-collared workers became important as labour movements and trade unionisation accelerated in Australia, the United States, and Europe, especially Britain.
This acceleration of trade unionisation reflected the challenges of the working conditions for blue-collar workers in Australia and the US, which were and continue to be often dangerous and, key to choice of clothing, dirty.
The indigo dyeing of the various cotton shirts, pants, and coveralls of the workwear sought to mask the dirt and grease that would result from the work environment. This was especially important when the frequent washing of clothing was not possible or extremely labour intensive. Thus, the number-one value associated with indigo-dyed workwear was durability. The second value was practicality.
As the actual shirt of the “blue collar” term, the chambray shirt exemplifies the durability and practicality of indigo-dyed workwear. Said to be first established Cambrai, France in 1595, chambray is defined as “a lightweight evenweave fabric formed of colored warp yarns [often blue] and white weft yarns.”
Selvage edge chambray Visivo/Flickr
According to the US Farmer’s Bulletin of 1831 on judging fabric quality, it was recommended as a good shirt material:
For outdoor work in mild weather, choose a material such as chambray, which is durable, firm enough to prevent sunburn, yet lightweight enough admit air and be fairly cool.
Other important design elements include two chest pockets with button down flaps, loose fit, the easy ability to roll up the sleeves, and reinforced stitching. The chambray shirt’s ruggedness resulted in it, along with denim dungarees, being adopted as the US Navy’s working uniform from 1901 until the second world war.
A sailor mechanic refueling a plane at the Naval Air Base, Corpus Christi, Texas, 1942. Howard R. Hollem/ U.S. National Archives
In Australia, the continued association of chambray with workwear is made evident by its continued listing for sale on the Bisley Workwear website. First in the US and having spread to Australia, the uniform of the working classes has been appropriated by the managerial classes.
The expansion of blue-collars
In the Post second world war period, Hollywood icons such as James Dean and Marilyn Monroe popularised chambray shirts with the emerging new demographic—teenagers. Indigo dyed materials such as chambray and denim became fashionable. When these baby boomers got older and began to run companies and corporations, especially those on the West Coast of the US, they brought their appreciation for the “coolness” of chambray and denim with them in the form of Casual Fridays.
According to US National Public Radio, Casual Fridays first began as Aloha Fridays in 1966, when the Hawaiian garment industry sought a way to get people to buy more Hawaiian shirts. During the economic recession of the early 1990s, dressing down one day of the week was offered as a way to rebuild morale in companies by relaxing the formality of the office. For the high technology start ups in California, it was a way to allow their engineers to work more creatively.
NPR reported how Levi’s and Co. took advantage of the anxieties corporation felt about allowing more casual dress by introducing the Docker’s brand as appropriate attire for business casual. Levi’s sent an eight page brochure, called A Guide to Casual Businesswear, to 25,000 human resource people all over the US.
Chambray shirt with tie as part of Levi’s Guide to Casual Businesswear, 1992. Levi's and Company
In the same way the focus on “blue collars” emerged when labour unions were growing in the turn of the 20th century, the adoption of working class blue-collars by the managerial classes reflects the decline of unionism in the turn of the 21st century.
According to Australian researcher Donna Harvey, union density in Australia dropped from 51% in 1976 to 25% in 2000. The Australian Bureau of Statistics reports the union density at 18% in 2013. Dropping since 1953, union density in the United States is at 11.1%, nearly half of its density in 1983.
By blurring the lines between blue and white collars through our selections of dress are we creating a new social harmony or erasing the presence of blue-collar labourers?
The news about the class war in San Francisco, the heart of casual tech culture, indicates that it is the latter. The Australian version of the Guardian posed the question of class warfare in regards to Sydney and Melbourne.
As I stated in the beginning of this article, indigo-dyed clothing frames the best and worst of human nature. While it may seem to be just a shirt, it is also a symbol of how we treat the person who wears it.
March 20, 2014 6.06am AEDT Author. Elizabeth Dori Tunstall. Associate Professor, Design Anthropology, Swinburne University of Technology
Indigo dyed threads. kolokolchiki/Flickr
Australian anthropologist Michael Taussig writes:
To slip into the blue of your blue jeans is to slip into a surprising and unexpected encounter with the past … but without your having the faintest idea of what you are slipping into.
The more than 5,000-years-old history of indigo-dyed clothing frames a world history of globalisation, labour, fashion, and the best and worst of human nature. From the early to mid 1900s, indigo blue clothing was deeply associated with the working classes, such as the “blue collars” of Australia and American “tradies". Analysing the values, design, and experience of the blue-collar chambray shirt for the working peoples of Australia and America provides a basis for the shifting views of blue-collar workers today.
Of American and Australian blue collars
The first mention of the term “blue collar” in print is attributed to a 1924 Alden Iowa newspaper, The Times, which stated:
If we may call professions and office positions white collar jobs, we may call the trades blue collar jobs.
Blue-collar jobs refer to occupations requiring skilled labour, often manual and industrial in nature. In Australia, these include the categories of skilled labourers (ex. from doggers to sandblasters), tradies (ex. from builders to technicians), plant operators, miners, and drillers. Hong Kong researcher Yim Chim Richard Wong, states:
The industrial worker became the “social question” of 1900 because he was the first lower-class person in history to gain the opportunity to organize and stay organised.
At the turn of the 20th century, the demarcation of the interests and cultures of blue-collared versus white-collared workers became important as labour movements and trade unionisation accelerated in Australia, the United States, and Europe, especially Britain.
This acceleration of trade unionisation reflected the challenges of the working conditions for blue-collar workers in Australia and the US, which were and continue to be often dangerous and, key to choice of clothing, dirty.
The indigo dyeing of the various cotton shirts, pants, and coveralls of the workwear sought to mask the dirt and grease that would result from the work environment. This was especially important when the frequent washing of clothing was not possible or extremely labour intensive. Thus, the number-one value associated with indigo-dyed workwear was durability. The second value was practicality.
As the actual shirt of the “blue collar” term, the chambray shirt exemplifies the durability and practicality of indigo-dyed workwear. Said to be first established Cambrai, France in 1595, chambray is defined as “a lightweight evenweave fabric formed of colored warp yarns [often blue] and white weft yarns.”
Selvage edge chambray Visivo/Flickr
According to the US Farmer’s Bulletin of 1831 on judging fabric quality, it was recommended as a good shirt material:
For outdoor work in mild weather, choose a material such as chambray, which is durable, firm enough to prevent sunburn, yet lightweight enough admit air and be fairly cool.
Other important design elements include two chest pockets with button down flaps, loose fit, the easy ability to roll up the sleeves, and reinforced stitching. The chambray shirt’s ruggedness resulted in it, along with denim dungarees, being adopted as the US Navy’s working uniform from 1901 until the second world war.
A sailor mechanic refueling a plane at the Naval Air Base, Corpus Christi, Texas, 1942. Howard R. Hollem/ U.S. National Archives
In Australia, the continued association of chambray with workwear is made evident by its continued listing for sale on the Bisley Workwear website. First in the US and having spread to Australia, the uniform of the working classes has been appropriated by the managerial classes.
The expansion of blue-collars
In the Post second world war period, Hollywood icons such as James Dean and Marilyn Monroe popularised chambray shirts with the emerging new demographic—teenagers. Indigo dyed materials such as chambray and denim became fashionable. When these baby boomers got older and began to run companies and corporations, especially those on the West Coast of the US, they brought their appreciation for the “coolness” of chambray and denim with them in the form of Casual Fridays.
According to US National Public Radio, Casual Fridays first began as Aloha Fridays in 1966, when the Hawaiian garment industry sought a way to get people to buy more Hawaiian shirts. During the economic recession of the early 1990s, dressing down one day of the week was offered as a way to rebuild morale in companies by relaxing the formality of the office. For the high technology start ups in California, it was a way to allow their engineers to work more creatively.
NPR reported how Levi’s and Co. took advantage of the anxieties corporation felt about allowing more casual dress by introducing the Docker’s brand as appropriate attire for business casual. Levi’s sent an eight page brochure, called A Guide to Casual Businesswear, to 25,000 human resource people all over the US.
Chambray shirt with tie as part of Levi’s Guide to Casual Businesswear, 1992. Levi's and Company
In the same way the focus on “blue collars” emerged when labour unions were growing in the turn of the 20th century, the adoption of working class blue-collars by the managerial classes reflects the decline of unionism in the turn of the 21st century.
According to Australian researcher Donna Harvey, union density in Australia dropped from 51% in 1976 to 25% in 2000. The Australian Bureau of Statistics reports the union density at 18% in 2013. Dropping since 1953, union density in the United States is at 11.1%, nearly half of its density in 1983.
By blurring the lines between blue and white collars through our selections of dress are we creating a new social harmony or erasing the presence of blue-collar labourers?
The news about the class war in San Francisco, the heart of casual tech culture, indicates that it is the latter. The Australian version of the Guardian posed the question of class warfare in regards to Sydney and Melbourne.
As I stated in the beginning of this article, indigo-dyed clothing frames the best and worst of human nature. While it may seem to be just a shirt, it is also a symbol of how we treat the person who wears it.
- Messages
- 14,098
They are a growing empire - give them time and they will become the new denim capitalist overlords.
I have summer and winter weight jeans from them that are perfect. However, they didn't really start to assault my finances until they branched into chinos and button downs. I also have a small duffel on order. Now I'm thinking of adding a work shirt. If they did wide shoe wear sizing I might even be tempted by their Red Wing boot copy.
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- 14,098
*Should this stay in denim or do we need a street wear shirt thread?*
wearing my new Gustin chambray stripe shirt. Has a surprisingly soft, brushed cotton feel. Most surprising is I can coax a little collar roll out of this one:
wearing my new Gustin chambray stripe shirt. Has a surprisingly soft, brushed cotton feel. Most surprising is I can coax a little collar roll out of this one:
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- 14,098
Gustin on Instagram: “New shirt style #comingsoon #weargustin”
Gustin have a new non button-down collar, chest flap pocket shirt design by the look of this pic.
Looks better suited to all the flannel wear they have been pushing lately. Not my cup of tea, but it should be more popular with the younger set looking for casual shirts to wear with denim.
Gustin have a new non button-down collar, chest flap pocket shirt design by the look of this pic.
Looks better suited to all the flannel wear they have been pushing lately. Not my cup of tea, but it should be more popular with the younger set looking for casual shirts to wear with denim.
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- 40,417
Looks like a fairly standard casual chambray shirt. I'm sure it will be popular with their base.