Let's Talk About Denim

I've really grown to love some of Gustin's chino and button down shirts for quality, feel, profile and value (though they also release a lot of dross in all categories). I'm even loving my duffel bag.

As far as denim, these are the two G jeans I would recommend for first-time buyers. One for each season. Nothing too fancy, just great value for money. There are other offerings that are close competitors (I'm wearing 11oz Cones this AM) and many others that offer something unique or unusual if you want it.

A basic weekend denim wardrobe:

The Super Heavy | Selvedge American Denim

#206 Brushed Back Superlight | Japan Selvedge Denim Jeans
 
Denim may outperform overall apparel growth
While denim is expected to grow at 13-15%, growth in the overall apparel industry is likely to slump to 2-3% from 13-15% over the past couple of years.
Vinay Umarji | Ahmedabad March 28, 2016 Last Updated at 14:04 IST

Even while apparel exports and domestic markets are expected to see subdued growth, the denim segment is likely to grow at a faster rate.

According to industry experts, the denim industry is growing at a compounded annual growth rate (CAGR) of 13-15% in a year when overall apparel growth rate is being pegged at a lackadaisical 3-5% this fiscal, down from 12-15% for the past couple of years.

Denim makes up 35% of total textile exports from India and is expected to rise to 45% of total exports by 2020; production is also expected to increase to 1.5 billion metres by 2020.

Meanwhile, the Indian denim industry is gradually looking to increase its share of exports, which currently lags behind at 35% compared to a domestic market of 65% of total production.

"Denim is witnessing one of the fastest growth rates as an apparel fabric segment, up by 500 million metres from 700 million metres in 2010 to 1.2 billion in 2015. Yet, there is a gap of another 300 million metres in India if the denim industry needs to tap its full export potential," says P R Roy, chairman of Diagonal Consulting (India).

As an apparel segment, denim's growth has been more in the domestic market than in the exports. While India has been one of the major global suppliers of denim fabrics, the domestic market still falls behind other competing nations in terms of denim apparel such as jeans.

Also, while most of the global brands outsource denim apparel work to Indian players, much of it is meant for the domestic market and not for exports.

"While the total denim capacity in the country is about 1.2 billion metres per annum, the utilisation is at around 900 million metres per annum, of which 250 million metres would be exports. However, denim apparel exports would roughly form around 50-60 million," says Prashant Agarwal, joint managing director of Wazir Advisors, a retail and management consulting firm.

Globally, the denim jeans market is projected to grow at 8%, up from $55 billion in 2015 to $59 billion in 2021. While the projected growth rate in Asia including India is around 12%, that for Latin America, North America and Europe is expected to be around 15%, 10% and 4%, respectively in next six years.
 
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Glad someone recommends Gustin, I keep an eye on them on a regular basis and may order in the summer.

My newest pair of Levi's are serving me very well. I have Selvedge and Non-Selvedge and I can't tell the difference between them (because I've worn in my raw denim), not that it matters much to me anymore.
 
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Glad someone recommends Gustin, I keep an eye on them on a regular basis and may order in the summer.

My newest pair of Levi's are serving me very well. I have Selvedge and Non-Selvedge and I can't tell the difference between them, not that it matters much to me anymore.

who can? I can tell the difference between raw - non raw/. I prefer the former..

Also I can tell the difference between 98-2% expandex and 100% denim. the latter feels 'heavier' on the body
 
who can? I can tell the difference between raw - non raw/. I prefer the former..

Also I can tell the difference between 98-2% expandex and 100% denim. the latter feels 'heavier' on the body

Selvedge refers to how the denim is woven. Biggest telltale is the lack of overlapped seams because the edge is finished because of shuttle looming vs. modern looms that leave a frayed, unfinished edge (it is how the weft is woven in) necessitating the overlock stitching. The coloured edges on the outseam when you roll up the cuff are a visual clue of selvedge

Most selvedge denim is raw (not preshrunk, washed or Sanforized) but not all. Raw is stiffer - the starch has not been washed out.

Different concepts
 
who can? I can tell the difference between raw - non raw/. I prefer the former..

Also I can tell the difference between 98-2% expandex and 100% denim. the latter feels 'heavier' on the body
When I got my first pair of raw jeans from United Stock Dry Goods and yes I could feel the difference, they feel substantial and are well constructed, those cost me $160.
Recently, I've been wearing these 501s and they are really comfortable, those were marked down from $99 to $30 and with a discount I paid $23 for them.

I've always believed Levis to be well made, regardless of wear they are actually produced, is this the same experience other forumites have had with them?
 
When I got my first pair of raw jeans from United Stock Dry Goods and yes I could feel the difference, they feel substantial and are well constructed, those cost me $160.
Recently, I've been wearing these 501s and they are really comfortable, those were marked down from $99 to $30 and with a discount I paid $23 for them.

I've always believed Levis to be well made, regardless of wear they are actually produced, is this the same experience other forumites have had with them?

I've never had any issues with Levis. The only pair of jeans I currently wear are LVC '67 505 reissues. I have some 54 501Z's but the don't fit me right, in fact, free to a good home if anyone wants them. 32/32's.
 
When I got my first pair of raw jeans from United Stock Dry Goods and yes I could feel the difference, they feel substantial and are well constructed, those cost me $160.
Recently, I've been wearing these 501s and they are really comfortable, those were marked down from $99 to $30 and with a discount I paid $23 for them.

I've always believed Levis to be well made, regardless of wear they are actually produced, is this the same experience other forumites have had with them?

Levis are good denim. it's what they do. denim is still so ubiquitous that no one really pays it any mind other than noticing bad acid wash jeans or a chick with a nice ass.
 
When I got my first pair of raw jeans from United Stock Dry Goods and yes I could feel the difference, they feel substantial and are well constructed, those cost me $160.
Recently, I've been wearing these 501s and they are really comfortable, those were marked down from $99 to $30 and with a discount I paid $23 for them.

I've always believed Levis to be well made, regardless of wear they are actually produced, is this the same experience other forumites have had with them?
Denim is now no different than tailored mens clothing. You can find very serviceable jeans for low prices, made to good standards with good materials, that would last you for a long time. Or, you could pay a premium for higher quality jeans made with better or unique denim, made to higher standards, that would probably hold up better to repeated wear and cleaning.

As for Levi's, you can go back through this thread to see me recommending them over and over again. They are the be all and end all of low cost denim. You're never going to find a better pair of denim for <$50.
 
Who is making good leather belts for denim these days? Corter seems to be out. Apparently, Filson has stopped using screws and high quality bridle in their leather. Market seems to be thinning.
 
Who is making good leather belts for denim these days? Corter seems to be out. Apparently, Filson has stopped using screws and high quality bridle in their leather. Market seems to be thinning.

Hollows Leather has made some nice bridle leather belts in the past but the buckles are handsewn in. His products are solid. Have one of his belts and it is solid.

Shop

You could get Equus to make one for you


Equus Leather :: Handmade Leather Belts and Accessories


I have Iron Heart & The Flat Head belts that have lasted eons. Not bridle but thick cowhide. Sugar cane belts were good years ago. Not sure if the new iterations are as good

Belts - Self Edge
 
Hollows Leather has made some nice bridle leather belts in the past but the buckles are handsewn in. His products are solid. Have one of his belts and it is solid.

Shop

You could get Equus to make one for you


Equus Leather :: Handmade Leather Belts and Accessories


I have Iron Heart & The Flat Head belts that have lasted eons. Not bridle but thick cowhide. Sugar cane belts were good years ago. Not sure if the new iterations are as good

Belts - Self Edge

I get my belts made custom out of bridle leather for $40-$50 a pop at Tundra Leather.
 
I've had my bridle leather belt from Narragansett and I would recommend.

http://www.narragansettleathers.com/

Also, I am pleased to have found this thread.

To contribute, here is what my APC PNS looked like after 1 dryclean (after which they were too slim). The color faded to a beautiful bright blue and the fades were pretty cool. I thought I was getting over the whole "raw denim" thing until these came back.
apc1.webp
apc.webp
 
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To contribute, here is what my APC PNS looked like after 1 dryclean (after which they were too slim). The color faded to a beautiful bright blue and the fades were pretty cool. I thought I was getting over the whole "raw denim" thing until these came back.

I think that's the first time that I've ever heard of anyone dry-cleaning their jeans.

Is this something that's common, but I've simply never heard of it?
 
Interesting. I've read about freezing, about cold soaking and about hanging out in the sun before, but not about dry-cleaning.
Honestly, its a little much for me. Those that are completely beholden to the amount of dye in their jeans can attempt to save some of it via dry cleaning vs. standard washing. At least that's how the theory goes.
 
Who is making good leather belts for denim these days? Corter seems to be out. Apparently, Filson has stopped using screws and high quality bridle in their leather. Market seems to be thinning.
Equus is really the only one I know left.
 
image.webp
Who is making good leather belts for denim these days? Corter seems to be out. Apparently, Filson has stopped using screws and high quality bridle in their leather. Market seems to be thinning.

I know you don't like my double thickness bridle gun belts, so I'd suggest ETSY.
 
Took out my Jean Shop Rocker today. Missed the orange stitching and selvedge.

This will go great with denim

503759820_1_tabletop
 
Who is making good leather belts for denim these days? Corter seems to be out. Apparently, Filson has stopped using screws and high quality bridle in their leather. Market seems to be thinning.

RM Williams make some solid hide casual belts - shipping to US is a rip but they still work out to about US $95 delivered. Just be sure to read "made in Australia" or "Australian made" in the item description, otherwise it's probably made in China or Romania or God know's where - though AFAIK most of the belts are still made in the Adelaide factory.

http://www.rmwilliams.com.au/men/accessories/belts-buckles

CB850SCH06NI-1.jpg
 
RM Williams make some solid hide casual belts - shipping to US is a rip but they still work out to about US $95 delivered. Just be sure to read "made in Australia" or "Australian made" in the item description, otherwise it's probably made in China or Romania or God know's where - though AFAIK most of the belts are still made in the Adelaide factory.

http://www.rmwilliams.com.au/men/accessories/belts-buckles

CB850SCH06NI-1.jpg
Yeah RMW make good jeans belts
 
Don't settle for anything less than bridle leather, and custom for that matter.
 
Don't settle for anything less than bridle leather, and custom for that matter.

He can be contacted directly for custom work. Bridle and harness are the same leather. It is the finishing, and types of oils that make the difference. Both are thick, strong leathers. Borders on being a non-issue for casual wear. YMMV
 
Black jeans are back? Are they still worn with Morrissey t shirts and doc martins?
 
Fuck. Also bought 2 pairs of Nike x Jcrew. Actually pretty good for the price points. Can't beat extra 40% off sale price.

Aint nuthin wrung with Jcroo. A lot better than the rest of the run of mill mall brands.
 
Fuck. Also bought 2 pairs of Nike x Jcrew. Actually pretty good for the price points. Can't beat extra 40% off sale price.

Aint nuthin wrung with Jcroo. A lot better than the rest of the run of mill mall brands.

True dat Kanye
 
Doing me wrong, bro! Doing me wrong.

What's with all the hate on Jcrew? I thought it was a decent store when cheap.

I just PM'd Kunk about this. He was so shocked, he stopped ripping someone off on a Rick sale. Kunk said he PM'd Rick who was just about to start fellating and then beating a male model and he says he just stopped and said he lost his appetite for mansex & manbeatingz when he read the PM

You are sending shockwaves thru SWD circles bro.
 

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