Pitti 87

[LelandJ]

Sure, but I would extend that label to most of SZ. Most avant garde stuff is absurd stuff that's whole point is to not be normal. Same with these guys, they just don't have the freedom to escape the suit and instead render it the base of their creation. It is easy to say they look bad, because as a base the suit is not a good garment - it is not very functional or artistic (hence its use after the great renunciation).

You're crazy to say a suit is not artistic. SZ is horrible, I was only there before because Stitches banned me and didn't know of DW yet.

What makes this garish and gaudy display of money and power any worse then Davos or Mardi Gras?

Because this convention is pretending to offer good taste in menswear.

 

[Grand Potentate]

POWERFUL SICKMINDED

This guy looks like he knows where the good drugs are being stored.

 

[Sartodi Napoli]

The Rake is a poor clueless magazine written by people who has any clue like Simon Crompton, see the asian guy who is an EDITOR of it with perhaps, the most horrid DB jacket after the ones of Luca.

 

[Leitmotif]

So it's only guys and more guys and no women, what kind of gay fest is that. Wait nevermind.

 

[Sartodi Napoli]

This guy looks like he knows where the good drugs are being stored.

I was thinking he should be a 68´s beatnick who now is neuronless.

So it's only guys and more guys and no women, what kind of gay fest is that. Wait nevermind.

Didn´t you know Pitti Palace has an underfloor where afterhour parties are this days? Is for real.

Might be the dungeon dark room. Don´t know any tailor who has been there ( or tells it)

 

[Journeyman]

LEON is the monthly - full of ads and a bit of copy and lots of pictures. The LEON snap is twice a year and is full of full page pics - mostly from Pitti or Italy in general. I think the target market is 45+ blokes who think they are hip. Mens Ex Seems to be aimed more at under 40 modern salarymen.

If you haven't had much exposure to the glossy .jp menswear mooks then a copy of the monthly LEON or Mens Ex is fun. But the LEON snap is better value by a long shot. I think Mens Ex have a similar bi annual thing - not sure. Journeyman will know.

I'm not sure if Men's Ex has a biannual special, although it's possible. Both Leon and Men's Ex typically feature a page or two of "street style" photos, usually of Europeans such as Lino Ieluzzi and other Pitti favourites.

Of the two, I tend to prefer Men's Ex as it usually offers some educational info on clothing or shoes, discussing the pros and cons of different brands or types of shoe or jacket construction, for example, whereas LEON is usually filled with lifestyle advice on clothing brands, men's jewellery, imported cars, alcohol and which bars and restaurants are good for showing off your young, glamorous girlfriend/mistress.

LEON also concentrates pretty much exclusively upon Italy for clothing and style inspiration, whereas Men's Ex is much more wide-ranging in seeking inspiration, with brands, products and people from around the world being mentioned and profiled.

When LEON was first introduced, I was in Japan and saw a television interview with the founder of the magazine. He was really the sort of person for whom LEON is written - in his fifties, fancies himself as a ladies man, wants to know what brands to wear and how to look a bit younger and hipper with a European twist. I think that he's been quoted as saying that the magazine was aimed at "choiwaru oyaji", or "bad middle-aged/older men" - in other words, men who like to play around, men who like to be seen as being interested in fashion and living life, rather than as being obedient worker drones who slave away in offices until late at night.

fkn cosplayers.

I think that this hits the nail on the head.

It's rather like the fashion displayed on the runways at big fashion shows - most of the stuff isn't meant for everyday wear, as it's simply not practical for the majority of the population. Instead, it's meant to draw attention, to get reviews, to get internet views. The same with the guys at Pitti. I'd be willing to bet that whilst the majority of them doubtless dress more outrageously than 99% of men every day, they deliberately ramp things up further for Pitti as they want to be seen and they want to be photographed and noticed. They're playing a role, for better or for worse.

 

[fxh]

I'm not sure if Men's Ex has a biannual special, although it's possible. Both Leon and Men's Ex typically feature a page or two of "street style" photos, usually of Europeans such as Lino Ieluzzi and other Pitti favourites.

Of the two, I tend to prefer Men's Ex as it usually offers some educational info on clothing or shoes, discussing the pros and cons of different brands or types of shoe or jacket construction, for example, whereas LEON is usually filled with lifestyle advice on clothing brands, men's jewellery, imported cars, alcohol and which bars and restaurants are good for showing off your young, glamorous girlfriend/mistress.

Thinking about it and looking at my small pile of .jp mags - (I've lent most out) perhaps Mens Ex does some "specials" instead of bi-annuals. I have a Shoe Special of Mens Ex and I've seen others on certain topics - maybe they are kind of lift outs or bonus issues? snap LEON (Not Leon Snap) is really worth getting a hold of one or two. Its 250 or so pages of full page pics - very few ads compared to the monthly, ordered by category - grey trousers, etc. Its fun but you don't need to get more than one or two. Lots of tackys but always a few interesting ideas and combos.

Theres lots of fun .jp mens mags - I have a huge 300 page issue of Precious that is just about Navy Blue. Oily Boys is fun too.

 

[prince nez]

Oily boys? That about Barbours?

 

[LelandJ]

Please re read my quote, I am talking about stylezeitgeist not styleforum. Most suits are a horrid work of art. They are drab and most differences are minute. Color palate is limited as is material choice. From a historical or complete fashion perspective how would you argue a suit is not drab and lacking in flair?

High art of all forms from vernacular to classical, per capita, pretty much died in the modern world of industry, obviously most clothes, suits are garbage today but that has nothing to do with history except to show the level of cultural regression. Look at GBS who probably makes the best avant garde suits now because he researches, copies, modifies 18th, 19th, and early 20th century designs, however narrow his focus may be by simple necessity. An educated master artisan tailor, woodworker, musician, chef, whatever discipline only aspires to reach historical standards because they can't be improved upon much less achieved in most cases.

Pre-modern art isn't dull from people's inability to appreciate, see its beauty, rather people's senses are dull from their culturally inherited inability to appreciate or see it.

Great majority of Pitti epitomizes the unrefined ugliness of modern fashion, clothing, art.

Didn't mean to mix EFV in with the worst of Pitti earlier in the thread but I haven't seen nice fits yet to pair his with yet.

 

[walker]

not sure, whats potentially wrong with these?

View attachment 4349 View attachment 4350 View attachment 4351

 

[Russell Street]

Okay, so it looks like the gypsy carpetbagger look is in this year. To starts, get a carpet bag and turn leftover remnants into an ersatz coat or pants. Hemlines are rising even further above the ankle, but socks are making a comeback. The new look in overcoats is no fucking buttons, or only one in use. Remember, the tighter the better! That lice-infested beard is still in vogue, and we still can't get enough visible tattoos.

 

[Leitmotif]

Another one, pure class

 

[Russell Street]

Dayglo purple is bold, but I'm more fascinated by what may be one of Tibor's Engel & Co. hats.

 

[Leitmotif]

Lol this thing just keeps getting better and better

 

[Leitmotif]

 

[Arnathor]

Only the woman and Sander (the right-most fellow) look to dressed reasonably. The two in the centre have lousy tailoring, right? Those jackets are too tight, correct?

 

[Russell Street]

Whoever the redhead is, she's a favorite over at FNB. I can take a slightly anachronistic look. I can't blame EFV for a snug jacket when worn with a sweater underneath. His hat does look better here.

 

[Russell Street]

She's got a style, and a doughy cuteness, and both get amped up in contrast to her surrounding company.
Surely someone will remind me who the man in the windowpane suit with the spalla cammicia is.

 

[Grand Potentate]

FNB is a bunch of slightly homosexual menswear fetishists. Of course they would love any woman who dresses like a man in vintage menswear.

doghouse , you've been summoned.

 

[doghouse]

doghouse , you've been summoned.

I don't recall anyone on FNB talking about that chick.

 

[walker]

sugardaddys boys with our member EFV and his fiance.

 

[Grand Potentate]

EFV is gonna wife the lady dressed as a man?

 

[walker]

EFV is gonna wife the lady dressed as a man?

yep. you know he is working on a clothing line with focus on vintage? so where are they now and what do they do there?

ps: ... not the best picture of her. she is cute ... thats the most I'm going to say about a colleagues gf and/or wife ...

 

[Sartodi Napoli]

Another one, pure class

View attachment 4366 View attachment 4366

It says, the secret of the styled men. Remember my post of yesterday( please my biographer, put on my dictionary, what " style" means. Is on the first page of this thread.

 

[Grand Potentate]

yep. you know he is woriking on a clothing line with focus on vintage? so where are they now and what do they do there?

ps: ... not the best picture of her. she is cute ... thats the most I'm going to say about a colleagues gf and/or wife ...

I bet she's cute as shit when she's not in butch lesbian chic.

 

[walker]

I bet she's cute as shit when she's not in butch lesbian chic.

copied that

 

[Sartodi Napoli]

Only the woman and Sander (the right-most fellow) look to dressed reasonably. The two in the centre have lousy tailoring, right? Those jackets are too tight, correct?

Hi, 2 answers;

1, the center jackets you ask might be the one with the hat a bit tight on the waist, as it does diagonal wrinkles around the button because it pulls, but too wide on the shoulders. The tall nerd ( who is couple of the following ) wears a too tall shirt collar, that also is wrong and the guy in the center was the one possing on a bathroon with baby toys last week.

He had yesterday this post ( i can´t stand this tackys, thisis the SHITbumi owner,

who are un natural suit dressers, who just wear suits because they got disorders, not for social end as the rest of people does)

 

[Russell Street]

Ha, did that just fail from being, you know, too damn tight?

My memory is not so hot. Apparently myself and the ridiculous poster Beestonplace were the extent of the fan club of oh yeah, here she is in a pith helmet and seersucker!

 

[Grand Potentate]

Every time I see Greg's face I wonder if this is an alternate timeline where Yakov Smirnov worked as a banker instead of a comedian.

 

[doghouse]

Every time I see Greg's face I wonder if this is an alternate timeline where Yakov Smirnov worked as a banker instead of a comedian.

In Soviet Russia, Pitti laughs at you.

 

[doghouse]

Ha, did that just fail from being, you know, too damn tight?

My memory is not so hot. Apparently myself and the ridiculous poster Beestonplace were the extent of the fan club of oh yeah, here she is in a pith helmet and seersucker!

Ah, yeah, I don't really pay attention to anything Beeston says. She definitely looks better in the pith helmet getup.

 

[doghouse]

View attachment 4373

And his wrist tat (this is real)

View attachment 4374

LOL. Might be the gayest thing I have ever seen.

Dude should kit himself in Hobbit gear.

 

[Grand Potentate]

View attachment 4373

And his wrist tat (this is real)

View attachment 4374

Please tell me that's in henna

 

[Marcus SmarDT]

Forget the tat for a second - I actually like his suit.

 

[Journeyman]

Forget the tat for a second - I actually like his suit.

I like the suit, too, although the trousers are a touch too short.

The wrist tattoo is Goddamned awful if it is real - why on earth would you have something so ephemeral as a hashtag permanently inked on your skin?

By the way, did anyone notice the guy in the bright red and blue poncho and cowboy hat standing by the wall in the background of the photo above??

 

[Grand Potentate]

I like the suit, too, although the trousers are a touch too short.

The wrist tattoo is Goddamned awful if it is real - why on earth would you have something so ephemeral as a hashtag permanently inked on your skin?

By the way, did anyone notice the guy in the bright red and blue poncho and cowboy hat standing by the wall in the background of the photo above??

Also, not wearing socks.

I did notice the magic poncho man

 

[prince nez]

Not sure if guy on left is actually an onion. If you stripped back all the layers, would there be an unman underneath?

 

[Thruth]

High art of all forms from vernacular to classical, per capita, pretty much died in the modern world of industry, obviously most clothes, suits are garbage today but that has nothing to do with history except to show the level of cultural regression. Look at GBS who probably makes the best avant garde suits now because he researches, copies, modifies 18th, 19th, and early 20th century designs, however narrow his focus may be by simple necessity. An educated master artisan tailor, woodworker, musician, chef, whatever discipline only aspires to reach historical standards because they can't be improved upon much less achieved in most cases.

Pre-modern art isn't dull from people's inability to appreciate, see its beauty, rather people's senses are dull from their culturally inherited inability to appreciate or see it.

Great majority of Pitti epitomizes the unrefined ugliness of modern fashion, clothing, art.

Didn't mean to mix EFV in with the worst of Pitti earlier in the thread but I haven't seen nice fits yet to pair his with yet.

I like it when you talk all sexy with big words, grammar, italics even!

Pitti needs to be over the top. It is clothing and some believe they need to stand out to demonstrate they are the bleeding edge of menswear. It is a process of "out-dandying" normal dandy's.

No different than concept cars or runway collections. Putting the haute in haute couture.

But they err, dare I say, to the tacky side of things.

Or some of these cats are just fucked up that they actually think they look good.

 

[Thruth]

Do any of these pics want to make you take up wearing a hat?

 

[Thruth]

The bleeding edge of menswear in terms of pairing outlandish colour and jumble of patters to convey a naive sense that they are far more advanced than the average bear.

I get your point but I don't care about the poncho-wearing, head swaddled in rags, Bedouin-channeling SWD element. I am more concerned with the tailored clothing that one wears when one grows up and how ridiculous suits and odd jackets are corrupted by these fools.

I am quite happy with what a suit or odd jacket looks like today in terms of cut, buttoning and variations of shoulder and such. I does not need to morph into something else. The designers that deconstruct or think "say, why don't we do a jacket without a lapel" are far outside of my myopic view.