The First Five Thread: Starting a Wardrobe From Scratch

ConchitaWurst said:
why are you looking at suit supply? theyve done a great marketing job positionkng themselves outside of holland as the best thing since sliced bread but its really pretty mediocre stuff. arent there any good local shops in new england?
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yes why not get some real local custom clothing at the Andover Shop in Cambridge. Those old boys will steer you in the right direction.
 
Rambo said:
For the same price as Suit Supply???
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you really want this to become the new noodles thread with heavy zootzupply bias? maybe the better advice is buy less but better pieces

zootzupply is like the ikea of menswear. throwaway collections. new wardrobe every season
 
Unbelragazzo is one of the biggest advocates of starting with a seasonal wardrobe and it's never been something I've understood given a number of practical limitations.

I guess I've always been drawn to three & four season fabrics as early elements of a wardrobe, provided you've a good overcoat (camelhair is great here). It's only really an issue when their color or texture really puts them at odds with the season.

That being said, something with texture, especially in NE, is a very reasonable stipulation for a F5.

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Some of y'all's suggestions seem a bit odd (camelhair blazer, gray odd jacket), not because they are bad pieces, but because they have sort of limited application in an inchoate wardrobe. In the long run, if you plan on having a 10-15 jacket rotation, not an issue. But then those jackets can be addressed in the long run rather than at a stage where you want a versatile wardrobe that can be implemented now.

I do love camelhair blazers though (doubt I'll ever own one...I've so rarely seen them worn well)

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We'd need to be pushing Eidos and Formosa for this to go the GNAT route. At this point, we know SuSu works for him, so it makes sense (provided they have what he likes and he's not just settling due to price/ease)
 
Chorn said:
Unbelragazzo is one of the biggest advocates of starting with a seasonal wardrobe and it's never been something I've understood given a number of practical limitations.
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i'd agree with you that unbelcazzo talks a lot of bs, but a seasonal wardrobe makes perfect sense if you have winters of -10/15 celcius and summers of +25/30 celcius
 
ConchitaWurst said:
you really want this to become the new noodles thread with heavy zootzupply bias? maybe the better advice is buy less but better pieces

zootzupply is like the ikea of menswear. throwaway collections. new wardrobe every season
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ConchitaWurst said:
whats their price point v-a-v zootzupply?
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That's what I was getting at. The man mentioned Suit Supply not because they're the best quality but, I have to assume, that he's got to fill out a wardrobe on a somewhat reasonable budget. Not exactly an apples-to-apples comparison. Now if you've got an alternative to Suit Supply at a reasonable price point I'm more than positive that Darkside Darkside would be willing to listen.
 
ConchitaWurst said:
why are you looking at suit supply? theyve done a great marketing job positionkng themselves outside of holland as the best thing since sliced bread but its really pretty mediocre stuff. arent there any good local shops in new england?
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Their Hudson model fits me very well OTR, and their pricepoint is attractive for my current level of income. Also, I don't get to wear jackets/ties often enough to justify spending a much higher proportion of my income on #menswear.

Can you recommend me brands of better quality and accessibility in a similar price range? And can you explain why you think it's of inferior quality? From what I understand, they do use decent fabrics, but I'm definitely no expert. I ask this specifically because condescending about how shitty it is without any follow up is simply unhelpful, and what scares most laymen away from the start.

ConchitaWurst said:
you really want this to become the new noodles thread with heavy zootzupply bias? maybe the better advice is buy less but better pieces
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I don't want it to become anything. This is a genuine question I have and that many beginners have as well and I think it can be useful in the long run. It can also be a place where open discussion can occur that's not in a negative context (Disagreeable thread).
 
Darkside said:
It can also be a place where open discussion can occur that's not in a negative context (Disagreeable thread).
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Don't discount a little bit of negativity here and there. If everyone's always blowing sunshine up each other asses then you end up with the clusterfuck in the Noodles thread. Sometimes people need to be told things in a not so nice way for them to get it through their thick fucking heads.
 
Darkside said:
Also, I don't get to wear jackets/ties often enough to justify spending a much higher proportion of my income on #menswear.
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would you consider buying 2 or 3 of better quality instead of 5 zootzupply?

i'll get back to you on zootzupply quality and alternatives. no intention to scare you off
 
Chorn said:
I guess I've always been drawn to three & four season fabrics as early elements of a wardrobe, provided you've a good overcoat (camelhair is great here).
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perhaps its a personal bias but the idea of three or four season fabric makes me ill. The quickest way to ruin a mtm or bespoke suit is to choose some flimsy RTW fabric. Choose cloth with character. Inevitably if you are starting a wardrobe your colors and patterns are pretty limited to greys and blues, so choose interesting climate apporiate materials like flannels, linen, fresco, heavy and mid wieght worsted, tweed. 3/4 season fabrics sucks the joy out for me.
 
Rambo said:
Don't discount a little bit of negativity here and there. If everyone's always blowing sunshine up each other asses then you end up with the clusterfuck in the Noodles thread. Sometimes people need to be told things in a not so nice way for them to get it through their thick fucking heads.
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I actually appreciate brunt honesty when it has a constructive purpose.

I personally love that thread and find it vastly entertaining. It's probably the reason I started hanging out here. I just think that people (especially those who are unfamiliar with DW) shouldn't have to venture to the Disagreeable thread to find a good open discussion, as much of it gets lost between comments about hating Jews and gay sex.

ConchitaWurst said:
Would you consider buying 2 or 3 of better quality instead of 5 zootzupply?

i'll get back to you on zootzupply quality and alternatives. no intention to scare you off
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Absolutely. I am open to all suggestions, and in no hurry to make any purchases.
 
Darkside said:
Their Hudson model fits me very well OTR, and their pricepoint is attractive for my current level of income. Also, I don't get to wear jackets/ties often enough to justify spending a much higher proportion of my income on #menswear.

Can you recommend me brands of better quality and accessibility in a similar price range? And can you explain why you think it's of inferior quality? From what I understand, they do use decent fabrics, but I'm definitely no expert. I ask this specifically because condescending about how shitty it is without any follow up is simply unhelpful, and what scares most laymen away from the start.



I don't want it to become anything. This is a genuine question I have and that many beginners have as well and I think it can be useful in the long run. It can also be a place where open discussion can occur that's not in a negative context (Disagreeable thread).
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Fit is paramount.

Buy what you can reasonably afford especially if the advantages of an alternative can't be easily quantified. If you are the type that jizz in your pants when neapolitan is mentioned then by all means spend above your means and take a trip to napoli.
 
Chorn said:
Some of y'all's suggestions seem a bit odd (camelhair blazer, gray odd jacket), not because they are bad pieces, but because they have sort of limited application in an inchoate wardrobe.
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Agree completely. camel hair blazer is very american choice, after standard blue blazer. never seen it done well in real life. avoid at all costs. grey odd coat can be great but it is an advanced move.
 
ConchitaWurst said:
Darkside Darkside whats your budget? how much do you want to spend on clothes per year?
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To be perfectly honest, answering this question is about as exciting to me as is doing my taxes. I am nowhere near the finance field, and don't ever plan to be.

But a slightly more helpful answer is that I buy clothes based on what I think the value will be for me. When I have an item in mind, I limit my discretionary spending on other things (alcohol, nights out, expensive dinners) to allot more towards that item. Do I think a $1200 jacket from brand X will give me more utility than a $500 SS one? Probably not, when you factor in things like accessibility, amount of tailoring, and risk of it not fitting and having to spend time to ship it back, etc.
 
Darkside Darkside for starters you need to acquire a navy/blue blazer/odd jacket in wool whether that is flannel (which many including The Manton will poo poo) plain weave (hopsack, fresco) or worsted (wool, wool mit cashmere etc,) This will be very flexible in terms of combination with slacks as well as across seasons. One must be mindful of fulfilling the SecurityGuard™ staple look, which in all seriousness can be artfully accomplished without looking like an ancillary member of the Thin Blue Line brigade.

You dress casually so I would suggest not-blazer to avoid metallic buttons which would limit its use in your case unless I am wrong.

Additional blues - one or two more of varying shades, fabrics, with or without pattern (eg. windowpane) add additional flexibility. Consideration can be given to tweeds (eg. thorn proof or donegal) or faux tweeds (worsteds that approximate the look of tweed but in a worsted usually of lesser weight)

Colours in the brown range (dark, mid, tans etc.) lend well to odd jackets and casualness. A brown herringbone with an overcheck adds some interest. Once again tweeds are ideal for your climate but faux tweeds accomplish the same thing in lesser weights and are more refined if you eschew the tweediness of tweed although as mentioned by others there are softer tweeds like Shetlands in medium weights.

Hounds/dog/puppytooth fabrics can be dressed up or down and are very flexible. They work in earthy tones of browns/tans/greens as well as blues with complimentary colour checks resulting in very good flexibility. Gunclubs as well but I tend to dislike most that are currently in favour because they are in too large patterns and bolder colours that scream "salesman". Take a look at IS' messed up cuff with IMO suck ass colour to know what to avoid.

A grey odd jacket would be normally down the list when acquiring staples but for you might rank higher up as you may wear them with denim and more casual cotton trousers in shades like Robertito posted. Be careful of going too light in colour and not having enough surface texture and too much plainness. A plain worsted light grey is not as flexible as one might think.

More when you provide additional information/comments
 
Thruth said:
Please in future include a trigger warning for PEAR. It might upset someone otherwise.
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image.webp
 
Russell Street said:
This is almost totally in line with my thinking for the most near-universal versatility. I can't wear a fresco blazer with gray flannel pants! I need a blazer of hefty doeskin or somesuch. You want something for when it's downright hot, and a lighter blue is a proper nod to summer without getting too nutty. A navy hopsack that can be thrown in moderate temperatures is a workhorse, and at least one tweed for any rustic/country/informal stuff.
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yes, more or less perfect.
 
ConchitaWurst said:
agree that if youre based in america its generally pretty dense to get your bespoke in napoli. dont think there will be many people here advocating such a silly thing
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I know of one member here that told someone to head to napoli to make pants.

In Boston he is limited to occasional trips by NSM, Steed and some other british tailors. Louis Boston carries the usual neapolitan ready to wear stuff (if they haven't closed shop)
 
Mcdonald said:
I know of one member here that told someone to head to napoli to make pants.

In Boston he is limited to occasional trips by NSM, Steed and some other british tailors. Louis Boston carries the usual neapolitan ready to wear stuff (if they haven't closed shop)
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If Darkside Darkside is in Boston and he is not contemplating MTO or bespoke there is Morigi Milano who I believe also has a bricks and mortar shop in addition to his online and EBay presence who carries Borrelli and Partneopea at discount prices (though mostly in his EBay store).

He also has the option of (I'm assuming) easy travel to NYC. Besides the retail RTW market there are significant deals to be had at Century 21 and the sample sales through Soiffer Haskin. They will release their sales schedule in September

Soiffer Haskin | Sale Schedule
 
Mcdonald said:
I know of one member here that told someone to head to napoli to make pants.

In Boston he is limited to occasional trips by NSM, Steed and some other british tailors. Louis Boston carries the usual neapolitan ready to wear stuff (if they haven't closed shop)
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in the end people should do what rings their bell but if i were us based i would stick to a reliable traveling tailor or look for a convenient domestic tailor
 
FriendCustomer said:
yes why not get some real local custom clothing at the Andover Shop in Cambridge. Those old boys will steer you in the right direction.
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Rambo said:
For the same price as Suit Supply???
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ConchitaWurst said:
whats their price point v-a-v zootzupply?
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image.webp
image.webp


andover pricing doesnt seem crazy or unattainable

i would be all over the ivy look if i were ne based and would seriously explore this route

appeals much more than getting a chinamade somewhat eyealian looking zootzupply with stupid high buttoning point

just my two cents

just read this and again had to fap fap fap

A League Of His Own: The Andover Shop’s Charlie Davidson
 
Rambo said:
Trust me, they're not easy to find here. Even in a big city like Boston.
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i think outside of italy, london and certain parts of asia there are no easy finds. but still there are some left in each country. arent there a few decent ny based tailors that are being discussed on sf?
 
Thruth said:
Darkside Darkside for starters you need to acquire a navy/blue blazer/odd jacket in wool whether that is flannel (which many including The Manton will poo poo) plain weave (hopsack, fresco) or worsted (wool, wool mit cashmere etc,) This will be very flexible in terms of combination with slacks as well as across seasons. One must be mindful of fulfilling the SecurityGuard™ staple look, which in all seriousness can be artfully accomplished without looking like an ancillary member of the Thin Blue Line brigade.

You dress casually so I would suggest not-blazer to avoid metallic buttons which would limit its use in your case unless I am wrong.

Additional blues - one or two more of varying shades, fabrics, with or without pattern (eg. windowpane) add additional flexibility. Consideration can be given to tweeds (eg. thorn proof or donegal) or faux tweeds (worsteds that approximate the look of tweed but in a worsted usually of lesser weight)

Colours in the brown range (dark, mid, tans etc.) lend well to odd jackets and casualness. A brown herringbone with an overcheck adds some interest. Once again tweeds are ideal for your climate but faux tweeds accomplish the same thing in lesser weights and are more refined if you eschew the tweediness of tweed although as mentioned by others there are softer tweeds like Shetlands in medium weights.

Hounds/dog/puppytooth fabrics can be dressed up or down and are very flexible. They work in earthy tones of browns/tans/greens as well as blues with complimentary colour checks resulting in very good flexibility. Gunclubs as well but I tend to dislike most that are currently in favour because they are in too large patterns and bolder colours that scream "salesman". Take a look at IS' messed up cuff with IMO suck ass colour to know what to avoid.

A grey odd jacket would be normally down the list when acquiring staples but for you might rank higher up as you may wear them with denim and more casual cotton trousers in shades like Robertito posted. Be careful of going too light in colour and not having enough surface texture and too much plainness. A plain worsted light grey is not as flexible as one might think.

More when you provide additional information/comments
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This is great advice. Thank you.
 
ConchitaWurst said:
i think outside of italy, london and certain parts of asia there are no easy finds. but still there are some left in each country. arent there a few decent ny based tailors that are being discussed on sf?
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There are a few good tailors in New York at Rubinacci prices. It's far reaching telling someone going suitsupply route to commission with Leonard Logsdail for example. But thinking about it, there are cheaper options like Manolo Costa, he can even use services like what Panta offers. Which will be reducing his suitsupply purchases from five to one and a fraction.
 
Mcdonald said:
There are a few good tailors in New York at Rubinacci prices. It's far reaching telling someone going suitsupply route to commission with Leonard Logsdail for example. But thinking about it, there are cheaper options like Manolo Costa, he can even use services like what Panta offers. Which will be reducing his suitsupply purchases from five to one and a fraction.
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maybe i wasnt clear

if i would be based in new england and would be looking for nice clothes i would first and foremost be looking at local shops where i could get a nice ivy look

if my budget would allow me i would get something custom made instead of rtw

if i would be a bespoke enthousiast i would either be looking for a reliable affordable traveling tailor, could be nsm, could be chang etc. at that price point another alternative would be ercole or whatever that ny based tailor is called where nyislander and a lot of sf guys get stuff made (like nsm some of their looks are nice some less so, but generally still reasonable)

if i would have very deep pockets i would look into pooles or another savile row travelling tailor or logsdail

i wouldnt consider rubinacci really as they dont take their cutter along and i wouldnt like to deal with the idiot luca
 
+1 on a flannel odd jacket. Your cotton/wool Hudson can be your SSF navy and your flannel can be your FWS navy.
 
FriendCustomer said:
doesn't Russell Street Russell Street have a reasonably priced NY area bespoke tailor?
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Oh, anyone in the area should really consider finding their way across the river to lovely North Bergen, NJ (okay, it sucks getting there) and visiting Manny Toyo of Toyo's Tailoring. Everything is made in house and the turnaround is rapid. It think there were only two fittings the first time, and only one thereafter but it's seems better than MTM at pretty much the same price. CEGO's Carl Goldberg recommends him FWIW.
Prices may have changed a bit, but an odd coat, depending on fabric, was in the $800-$1200 range. Full canvas, working sleeve buttons, hand sewn slots blah blah.

Thruth is correct. You can see Manhattan from there, but I'm unaware of convenient mass-transportation, traffic sucks, bring quarters for parking...

Oh, you guys are killing me. It is in a very Hispanic low-rent area. Were he in Manhattan, prices would be totally different.
 
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