A bombastic British aristocrat and the Crimean War are to thank for the cardigan’s basic form and name. Wars have often contributed details of dress, perhaps especially those of the mid-to-late 19th century, when technological innovations joined with the needs of various battles to increase clothing production, distribution, and advertising. A colorful example of war’s influence on style comes from the 1859 Battle of Magenta, a particularly bloody battle of the Second Italian War of Independence. In a fanciful confluence of science and revolution, the creators of a lurid pink synthetic dye decided to name the new hue after that gruesome melee the very next year.
The same decade as magenta’s debut, the Crimean War (1853-1856) introduced several long-lasting style components, including the cardigan, as fashion historian
Jonathan Walford notes. At the battle of Balaclava a year into the war, amid the high fatalities of his soldiers, the bombastic and vain seventh Earl of Cardigan, James Thomas Brudenell (1797-1868), led the light brigade wearing a waist-length, close-fitting, collarless knitted jacket of Berlin wool or English worsted. Walford points out that knitting was on the rise in the 1850s, and the battle sites were unexpectedly cold. “Like the
balaclava — a ski mask, basically, named for the battle — the cardigan was something civilians could knit at home to send off to soldiers.” And so the cardigan first appeared on a different kind of red carpet.
Lord Cardigan’s own career was a bit less illustrious than that of his namesake garment. To many, his military and leadership skills exemplified nothing more than the flaws in the “purchase of commission” system, by which aristocrats bought military rank. One staff officer under the command of another aristocrat who lent his name to a still-extant fashion attribute (Lord Raglan, the one-armed commander whose tailor introduced the particular jacket cut we best know today on Raglan-sleeved sweatshirts) alleged in his memoirs that Lord Cardigan survived the Battle of Balaclava only by abandoning the men fighting under him, about a sixth of whom died.
A cardigan in
Vogue, circa 1927.
Photo: Charles Sheeler/Conde Nast via Getty Images
Lord Cardigan left his Russian post a little more than a year into the Crimean War, citing ill health. Back in England, he complemented already exaggerated claims of his valor with tall tales of his own. Merchants eager to capitalize on the war sold his pompous account of the charge along with pictures of his likeness. As part of his celebrity, his favored knitted waistcoat gained both fashionability and the appellation “cardigan.”
The cardigan remained popular in Europe and the U.S. throughout the rest of the 19th century, but was still rightly categorized as a jacket, tending to be short, close-fitting, and collarless. Late in the century, a short roll collar, often velvet, was sometimes added. The cardigan got a makeover in the early 20th century, crossing genders in the process. As early as 1908,
Vogue borrowed the coat-style knit from menswear and promoted a cardigan-like apparel for women’s use in golfing and tennis as part of the growing craze for sportswear and knits.
Then, in the 1920s, French fashion designer
Coco Chanel created the cardigan suit for women, capitalizing on a trend already well under way. Chanel softened the material to jersey, and lengthened it to be worn over a matching skirt — or jumper, as a predecessor of the twin set. By that decade’s end, the casual women’s suit was touted by the
New York Times as beneficial for “sub-debutantes,” with fashion experts promising the separates style to be a “boon for a difficult age.”