Jupiter

Well-Known Member
Messages
832
I get it. Just don't call it heavyweight. The weather in France or India does not dicate how tissue is described except in your world.

That is like calling 13 ounce tweed heavyweight because you live in Cairo.
What is heavyweight for you?
 

CesareRomiti

Well-Known Member
Messages
691
What is heavyweight for you?

I received a cutting of the Everest 1000 gms cashmere sample today. There is nothing like it or at least nothing that I have ever seen. One kilo cashmere that has a density that is pretty much unsurpassed. The color is a navy blue and there is not much to be gained from a photo.

First, I have to find scissors that can cut this stuff. Stay tuned...
 

FriendCustomer

Awful Tie Aficionado
Messages
2,270
I received a cutting of the Everest 1000 gms cashmere sample today. There is nothing like it or at least nothing that I have ever seen. One kilo cashmere that has a density that is pretty much unsurpassed. The color is a navy blue and there is not much to be gained from a photo.

First, I have to find scissors that can cut this stuff. Stay tuned...
 

CesareRomiti

Well-Known Member
Messages
691
You need shears for real, manly tailors... (at least 14")

View attachment 29302
is incredible how people can get profit from an old Gentleman.. Gennaro use to not be our head tailor from more than 10 years since he was to old to cut clothes and can't assure a top Rubinacci quality..i hope a big fortune for who is involved.. But please don't use Rubinacci name incorrectly, has is not polite for the 40 Tailors are working hard in our Laboratory every day !
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
19,244
What is heavyweight for you?
Start with the British Warm overcoat and greatcoats made with 34 to 36 ounce so that is 1000g plus. That is heavyweight. Plus it is melton so it adds more windproofness given the

Dugale has/had 25 ounce coatings in their books. Haven't looked in a while though.

Huddersfield Fine Worsteds have some 680g (24 ounce)

21 ounce and less does not make sense to me unless you are putting more than a bemberg lining in it.
 

Lumpen

Well-Known Member
Messages
501
Sarto has news tons of English hand made block madders,

Just watched those, sadly I can´t afford any.
 

Pimpernel Smith

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,210
As promised awhile back, this was made for me by L.S. Lowry's tailor, the only problem being that he's the father of my arch-nemesis, so I had to bin it in the archives, the most magnificent and splendid...

IMG_1001.JPG


IMG_0997.JPG


Shame about this:

IMG_0998.JPG


IMG_0999.JPG


There might even be some wraps of coke somewhere hidden in there.....
 

ConchitaWurst

Bespoke-Weather Forecaster
Messages
6,069
A task for you dear Spanish Rookie.

P-S: this theme fucked everything.

View attachment 29603
you need to tag aristoi bcn . but i think he left the forum along with the overhaul. he is now undisputed rookie expert of sf. outexperting douchebag ericgegergithty, chinaman the chai and ultra greek bore & anal expert bespoke djp

maybe we should try and liven up thelondonlounge for a few days
 

aristoi bcn

Spanish Rookie
Messages
362
Good stuff. I've a shirt made from the specials range and is very good, and some more cuts to be made into shirts once Golia nails my pattern (I think is my last attempt to find a shirtmaker in Naples).

BTW, In one month I'm picking up a herringbone linen jacket from Spence Bryson linen. 20€/m or so and exactly the same fabric that W.Bill offers.
 

ConchitaWurst

Bespoke-Weather Forecaster
Messages
6,069
Good stuff. I've a shirt made from the specials range and is very good, and some more cuts to be made into shirts once Golia nails my pattern (I think is my last attempt to find a shirtmaker in Naples).

BTW, In one month I'm picking up a herringbone linen jacket from Spence Bryson linen. 20€/m or so and exactly the same fabric that W.Bill offers.
this thread needs pictures!
 

Jupiter

Well-Known Member
Messages
832
VBC wool-silk-linen hopsack at broken price (maybe from an old Drapers Jackets and Solaire bunch). Always with Granata.

#bringbacktheoldDW#

Screenshot_20180424-094016.jpg
 

Jupiter

Well-Known Member
Messages
832
that looks like some pretty nice summer jacketing. how much is the young teacher charging for the tissue?
65 euros/m. I had some similar solid fabrics in sight from Caccioppoli and H&S but there were overpriced (125 euros/m for Caccioppoli and 150 euros/m for H&S). Schofield & Smith similar blends lack something, too rough with poor colours, in line with the prices of Caccioppoli (105 pounds I think).

#givemebackmyoldDW#
 
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Jupiter

Well-Known Member
Messages
832
Finally opted for the Fox classic midnight coating for a DB overcoat project. Dull, heavy (750gr), rough, understated, it should please my FriendCustomer.

I hesitated with a lighter Golden Bale/Cashmere coating from Harrison's (they were superreactive to send me the samples). Great touch but unsatisfying colors.

sketch-1524675002023.png


#RambopleasestopDWseppuku#
 

aristoi bcn

Spanish Rookie
Messages
362
I'm thinking about this Lmabswool jacketing for next Autumn:

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Which 3 corduroy trouser colours would pair better? Olive green and...?
 

Jupiter

Well-Known Member
Messages
832
you in contact with teh kickboxing chinaman?
I was indeed. The Kim Jong-Un fellow is very friendly and sent me tons of pics of their Wool-Linens and silk-linens and Ventilato bunches and others things I don't remember but I'm always reluctant to chose fabrics without having the possibility to see the true colours and feel the true touch. This was one is from their Instagram. I had two exchanges with the roman house - friendly exchanges - but it ended there. They didn't answer to price inquiries and questions related to the possibility of buying directly to them. I think it's possible to do it with the korean fellow but then it would be like ordering a BnTailor jacket to a swedish middleman untailor specialized in coal miners customer base. Prices of their fabrics are very correct but for the english made ones it's very easy to trace their source and skip the margin.
 
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FriendCustomer

Awful Tie Aficionado
Messages
2,270
I was indeed. The Kim Jong-Un fellow is very friendly and sent me tons of pics of their Wool-Linens and silk-linens and Ventilato bunches and others things I don't remember but I'm always reluctant to chose fabrics without having the possibility to see the true colours and feel the true touch. This was one is from their Instagram. I had two exchanges with the roman house - friendly exchanges - but it ended there. They didn't answer to price inquiries and questions related to the possibility of buying directly to them. I think it's possible to do it with the korean fellow but then it would be like ordering a BnTailor jacket to a swedish middleman untailor specialized in coal miners customer base. Prices of their fabrics are very correct but for the english made ones it's very easy to trace their source and skip the margin.
what's the source of the English made jacketing you just posted?
 

Jupiter

Well-Known Member
Messages
832
what's the source of the English made jacketing you just posted?
No. Maybe Kynoch. They are used to work with Reid & Taylor (now Kynoch) and William Clark for the linens (and certainly Spencer Bryson). I found another obscure mill I don't remember the name.
 
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Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
19,244
Little puff piece on tissue from Dugdale Bros.

http://www.dugdalebros.com/latest-news/post/how-its-made-fine-worsted-cloth/?utm_source=5-7-17+-+Website+Accounts/Opt+Ins&utm_campaign=53229426db-How_Its_Made_2018_05_11_Web&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_654ee210db-53229426db-30015495

Interesting bit:

Although slowly achieved, these refinements are most obviously apparent when it comes to the weight of the cloth. Whilst the average would have been around 540g in 1915, just over a century later the standard sits at approximately 280g.
 

Buitenlander

Well-Known Member
Messages
76
Has anyone heard of oxygen cloth? I thought I took a picture of the selvedge with the maker but must not have. Is it a decent cloth for a summer blazer or does it say you can be bought?
 

Lumpen

Well-Known Member
Messages
501
Has anyone heard of oxygen cloth? I thought I took a picture of the selvedge with the maker but must not have. Is it a decent cloth for a summer blazer or does it say you can be bought?
Oxigen cloth?

Yes, but after flax hype, after vicuña hype now the (eternal) hype is coca cloth, extra price if the coca plants has been shitted by the few vicuñas alive on the apenines. Gives extra drape due to vitamins.

https://media.giphy.com/media/Hz5NhPmTJkudi/giphy.gif
 
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