The Touch! The Tissue Thread TM

aristoi bcn said:
Darkest navy.
Grey POW. With and without windowpanes.
No stripes, no tick effects.
Windowpanes maybe.

ps: Minnis told me the minimum would be 60m...
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got all those covered. but keep us posted of developmemts please. what about a plain mid grey? or an airforce blue pow without windowpane like the ll did?
 
Thought this might be better here:

Jupiter said:
Many thanks for your insights. Top value answer. Could you give us a top 5 or your favorite fabrics? Considering the quality of the drape, their hand, their durability, the pleasure you had to tailor them?
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That's tough! Mostly because I simply don't remember the brand name (merchant) and mill or bunch.
I don't like working with heavy cloths. Just because you have to handle so much material and weight from a certain stage in the make process onward.
I don't like light weight high twist cloth. Simply because it can be hard to keep the seams flat and open and you can neither stretch or shrink them. Particularly bad with the open weave versions. It's like working with mesh.
The R&T Multi- colour high twist was/ is a good to excellent cloth to work with. I think the bunch was called Silver Gander, around 450 to 470 gr.
Escorial is nice to work with and you can make it look crisp. A lot of finer cloths with a milled finish (brushed up) can end up looking limp and fluffy.
Worsted flannels are good, too, since they keep their shape and creases/ edges better and longer. Also much better on recovery.
Most of the Bateman-Ogden cloths are excellent value for money and good to work with independent of their weight.
When it comes to tweeds the ones from Lovat Mill are usually well made. Not too many distortions and the patterns don't vary much in size in width and length. Don't care much for Harris tweeds, just because of the way they feel. OK from a tailoring point of view.

From a feel (hand) point of view I prefer the Italian cloths. They just feel so much more supple compared to many British cloths. They mostly look better, too. The British version might last longer, though.
 
Scherensammler said:
Thought this might be better here:



That's tough! Mostly because I simply don't remember the brand name (merchant) and mill or bunch.
I don't like working with heavy cloths. Just because you have to handle so much material and weight from a certain stage in the make process onward.
I don't like light weight high twist cloth. Simply because it can be hard to keep the seams flat and open and you can neither stretch or shrink them. Particularly bad with the open weave versions. It's like working with mesh.
The R&T Multi- colour high twist was/ is a good to excellent cloth to work with. I think the bunch was called Silver Gander, around 450 to 470 gr.
Escorial is nice to work with and you can make it look crisp. A lot of finer cloths with a milled finish (brushed up) can end up looking limp and fluffy.
Worsted flannels are good, too, since they keep their shape and creases/ edges better and longer. Also much better on recovery.
Most of the Bateman-Ogden cloths are excellent value for money and good to work with independent of their weight.
When it comes to tweeds the ones from Lovat Mill are usually well made. Not too many distortions and the patterns don't vary much in size in width and length. Don't care much for Harris tweeds, just because of the way they feel. OK from a tailoring point of view.

From a feel (hand) point of view I prefer the Italian cloths. They just feel so much more supple compared to many British cloths. They mostly look better, too. The British version might last longer, though.
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Don't want to put you the pressure but it would be very helpful to me and our young chaps ( aristoi bcn aristoi bcn ) if you could give us a detailed list of your favorite Italian fabrics for example. By the way I'm curious to know what you think of Fox Brothers carded and worsted flannels. Do they really worth it? I noticed they recently increased the prices of their Classic and Heritage bunches.
 
I'm rather interested in being able to identify the manufacturer and quality of a given cloth by looking at its composition and appearance, hence my reiterative questions about some of the specifics.

I've requested several swatches from Schoefield&Smith, which is, according to its website, a Mill. (thanks for the recommendation of FriendCustomer FriendCustomer ). They produce the typical worsteds, but also Lambswool and Wool, silk, linen and mohair blends in textured hopsack. So three types of cloth that are very different from each other. Summer blends don't seem to derivate from a special know how of the italians.
 
Jupiter said:
Don't want to put you the pressure but it would be very helpful to me and our young chaps ( aristoi bcn aristoi bcn ) if you could give us a detailed list of your favorite Italian fabrics for example. By the way I'm curious to know what you think of Fox Brothers carded and worsted flannels. Do they really worth it? I noticed they recently increased the prices of their Classic and Heritage bunches.
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We are a small tailoring firm in the middle of nowhere and my boss loves to stick to what he knows, so we mostly work with British made cloths. However, I think LDB now offers Vitale Barberis cloths in various bunches and we've used some of them and they came up nice when finished.
Because of the weather up here there is very little demand for light weight cloths, plus Scots really love value for money so they tend to go for the more robust (and cheaper) ones. So I'm not that familiar with Italian cloths. Or high end, niche British mills.
You can't do much wrong with established Italian mills like Loro Piana, Zegna and others from Biella region.
I used to like Fratelli Tallia di Delfino a lot when I found them at a local cloth merchant in Bremen in the 90's. Very solid, sturdy products. But it looks like they've also went for the luxury market these days.
 
Opinions on vintage Moorbrook overcoat-weight cashmere?

Looking out there for scottish cashmere for giacche and capotti.
 
Look at this Harris Tweed I found out. Lovely, isn't it?

wpid-wp-1465495759180.jpg
 
I think my favourite tissue is grey houndstooth/pow with red overcheck. The Harris is quite unique among the usual merchants and it will be worn almost only with denim.

I've also inquired if Harrison's still has available this Lamlana to be worn with flannels, but it's unlikely they still have it in stock:

WB30076 Lamlana.webp


But the holy grail would be this:

Red POW 100%Cashmere.webp
 
FriendCustomer said:
I very much like the idea of a black and white houndstooth with a red deco but prefer it in a more subdued flannel as a suit. Yours is quite bold and will be interested to see how it turns out.


View attachment 28584 View attachment 28585
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Superlative!

aristoi bcn said:
I think my favourite tissue is grey houndstooth/pow with red overcheck. The Harris is quite unique among the usual merchants and it will be worn almost only with denim.

I've also inquired if Harrison's still has available this Lamlana to be worn with flannels, but it's unlikely they still have it in stock:

View attachment 28586

But the holy grail would be this:

View attachment 28587
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Very superlative!
 
aristoi bcn said:
I think my favourite tissue is grey houndstooth/pow with red overcheck. The Harris is quite unique among the usual merchants and it will be worn almost only with denim.

I've also inquired if Harrison's still has available this Lamlana to be worn with flannels, but it's unlikely they still have it in stock:

View attachment 28586

But the holy grail would be this:

View attachment 28587
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That cashmere looks amazing.

I’m generally a fan of this sort of thing. I have a worsted suit with a bold red windowpane which I love.

356D7D7C-09E3-4081-ACCB-250B3CD7533E.webp



I also have a few cloths yet to be made in similar themes. The bold one on the left is a jacketing and the more subdued on the right is a flannel suiting.

C3F1F0E6-641E-4651-9114-4900A7F7048D.webp



This jacket which is not mine I find very beautiful :

0F2051DD-209C-4AEE-A72A-5F617C2E4173.webp
 
Lovely tissues you posted.

The one on the giacca of Yuki Inoue is a vintage W.Bill. He posted this one some time ago too:
Pure Cashmere.webp
 
Jupiter said:
It seems many Asian bespoke ops use Urotex merchant as a supplier. I never touched one of their bunches. Are they of any interest? With which mills do they work? Insights please.

http://www.eurotex-rome.com/eng-index.asp
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Top interest. High taste level fabrics. Don’t sell direct. Not sure if they would sell if you showed up at there shop in Rome. Work with mills in Britain and Italy, could not tell you which ones. Generally not found outside of Italy or China (mainly Japon and Korea). I like what I’ve seen, mainly small check faux tweeds and summer cloths and cashmere. They also have books of fresco like stuff, maybe lovat, maybe Mimmo hardies. Linen too. Don’t pay much attention to suiting books anymore so couldn’t speak on that.
 
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FriendCustomer said:
Top interest. Hi taste level fabrics. Don’t sell direct. Not sure if they would sell if you showed up at there shop in Rome. Work with mills in Britain and Italy, could not tell you which ones. Generally not found outside of Italy or China (mainly Japon and Korea). I like what I’ve seen, mainly small check faux tweeds and summer cloths and cashmere. They also have books of fresco like stuff, maybe lovat, maybe Mimmo hardies. Linen too. Don’t pay much attention to suiting books anymore so couldn’t speak on that.
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Agree. Some interesting fabrics indeed like their cotton-cashmere blends and faux-tweed wool-cashmere. aristoi bcn aristoi bcn since you're totally obsessed by the fabrics ecosystem we count on you to investigate further.
 
Urotex investigation in progress. I will share the finds of course. No mystery bespoke fabrics. #mbfdestruction #mbtdestruction

sketch-1520526331791.webp
 
COTONE 182 2.webp
COTONE 182 1.webp
DONEGAL 1.webp
DONEGAL 2.webp


The brown Donegal is beautiful but too light for me. On the other hand the heavy cotton-cashmere would be perfect for a casual pant.
 
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Hi gentlemen, I found recently an Eurosex sales representative, I’ll leave here his name and many pictures of autumn/winter jackets that he passed to me. I’m thinking to get this fabric for my next project. What do you think?
 
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