aristoi bcn

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An odd jacket from Solaro? Bold strategy Cotton.
I'll make the full suit. I want a light brown/tan jacket to wear with anything anytime. Linen and cotton are two options, but their use is limited to warm season. Wool/mohair would be another option.

I deliberately want the look of a semi-orphaned suit jacket. I just don't care about those igents argueing about avoiding that and suggesting patch pockets, manica camiccia, no lining and swelled edges. I'll do completely the oposite.
 

fxh

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I'll make the full suit. I want a light brown/tan jacket to wear with anything anytime. Linen and cotton are two options, but their use is limited to warm season. Wool/mohair would be another option.

I deliberately want the look of a semi-orphaned suit jacket. I just don't care about those igents argueing about avoiding that and suggesting patch pockets, manica camiccia, no lining and swelled edges. I'll do completely the oposite.
If you want that look - sarto is your man. A few of us could send you old chalk striped suit jackets to wear with your jeans
 
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FriendCustomer

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https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3400508/

"In the end, despite the praise and endorsement it received in Britain, Solaro clothing was ultimately shown to be ineffective. James M. Phelan, an American physician in the Philippines, conducted experiments on five hundred U.S. soldiers who wore the clothing and showed that it did nothing to improve health; in fact, as Warwick Anderson points out, Solaro was extremely uncomfortable and probably detrimental to health.84 "

(nabbed from someone on SF who posted the paper originally)
Yes Solaro bad for health like tanning, cigarettes and unprotected sex with multiple partners. Perhaps not for you, definitely not for everyone.

As an odd jacket very unhealthy, like charlie, ludes and gay discos.
 

rdiaz

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If you want Solaro explicitly then by all means get it, but I just think worsted would be better for a year round jacket that purposefully looks like a semi orphaned suit coat
 

aristoi bcn

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I'm looking for the classic brown solaro but if the green is nice, I'll ask Conchita.

The think is that the typical tan worsted wool (let's say, the hopsack of VBC) is too plain and very RTWish.

 

rdiaz

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I wonder if he (vox) reads us

BTW why on earth would
IMG_20180127_224142-20x21.png
on choose a 3 button jacket for his build. that just makes it worse.
 
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aristoi bcn

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I've been in contact with HFW and they are able to produce the Rangoon in small lengths. Is anyone interested? Any design is possible. Grey with rust overcheck anyone?

They have also told me that they are not able to produce the Lambswool or the Riviera because they don't have access to the same yarns anymore. Were those cloths that special?
 

CesareRomiti

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I've been in contact with HFW and they are able to produce the Rangoon in small lengths. Is anyone interested? Any design is possible. Grey with rust overcheck anyone?

They have also told me that they are not able to produce the Lambswool or the Riviera because they don't have access to the same yarns anymore. Were those cloths that special?
What are small lengths and whats the price like?

Yes, extinguished forever tissues are always special
Might wear a jacket made from lambswool tomorrow to celebrate that fact
 

FriendCustomer

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I've been in contact with HFW and they are able to produce the Rangoon in small lengths. Is anyone interested? Any design is possible. Grey with rust overcheck anyone?

They have also told me that they are not able to produce the Lambswool or the Riviera because they don't have access to the same yarns anymore. Were those cloths that special?
Nice cloth. But me and the people I know (on my mother’s life) have tons of baboon lengths lying around. No need for more. Would be interesting for those that do not.

were those other cloths special? Was pre harrisons H Lesser special, or old golden bale flannel or orginal Tonik, sportex and towntex, or Reid and Taylor Twist or Hunters tweed or real west of England flannel (not new fake fox)? How about orginal formulations of Guerliain and Caron juices? What about old Ballyntyne, Pringle and Lyle and Scott Cashmere? Ask those that are willing to seek it out and pay for it.

The olde world is pretty much dead. Probably died some time in the 80s. With globalisation, cheaper production and changing tastes there is no going back. Perhaps some threads stuck around till the 90s and early 00s. But the European Union regulations were the death knell for whatever was left.

Make do with what’s available or move on.
 
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doghouse

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Nice cloth. But me and the people I know (on my mother’s life) have tons of baboon lengths lying around. No need for more. Would be interesting for those that do not.

were those other cloths special? Was pre harrisons H Lesser special, or old golden bale flannel or orginal Tonik, sportex and towntex, or Reid and Taylor Twist or Hunters tweed or real west of England flannel (not new fake fox)? How about orginal formulations of Guerliain and Caron juices? What about old Ballyntyne, Pringle and Scott and Charters Cashmere? Ask those that are willing to seek it out and pay for it.

The olde world is pretty much dead. Probably died some time in the 80s. With globalisation, cheaper production and changing tastes there is no going back. Perhaps some threads stuck around till the 90s and early 00s. But the European Union regulations were the death knell for whatever was left.

Make do with what’s available or move on.
Good thing to, because the new tissue for the most part performs so much better, raging spittle lunatic Frank Shattucks insane drunken ramblings aside.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Nice cloth. But me and the people I know (on my mother’s life) have tons of baboon lengths lying around. No need for more. Would be interesting for those that do not.

were those other cloths special? Was pre harrisons H Lesser special, or old golden bale flannel or orginal Tonik, sportex and towntex, or Reid and Taylor Twist or Hunters tweed or real west of England flannel (not new fake fox)? How about orginal formulations of Guerliain and Caron juices? What about old Ballyntyne, Pringle and Scott and Charters Cashmere? Ask those that are willing to seek it out and pay for it.

The olde world is pretty much dead. Probably died some time in the 80s. With globalisation, cheaper production and changing tastes there is no going back. Perhaps some threads stuck around till the 90s and early 00s. But the European Union regulations were the death knell for whatever was left.

Make do with what’s available or move on.
I've a suit made with Reid & Taylor Twist and it's a mighty thick cloth, don't know what the weight is, but the trousers can nearly stand by themselves. The cloth was difficult to source back in the mid 2000's. I will post some photos when I get a chance. But that type of cloth was pretty much common amongst my grandfather's suits and jackets. Did it just become old hat, or too expensive to produce for a declining market?
 

FriendCustomer

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I've a suit made with Reid & Taylor Twist and it's a mighty thick cloth, don't know what the weight is, but the trousers can nearly stand by themselves. The cloth was difficult to source back in the mid 2000's. I will post some photos when I get a chance. But that type of cloth was pretty much common amongst my grandfather's suits and jackets. Did it just become old hat, or too expensive to produce for a declining market?
Probably a bit of both. R&T went bankrupt a couple of times, at one point was owned by the Indians. Last I heard even if one wanted to pay for the very heavy stuff through special order the Reid and Taylor Twist machines had been destroyed (there are other companies with other types of twisting machines i’d imagine) and that it was virtually impossible to source heavy weight colored yarns suitable for this kind of suiting other than grey and blue. If you look at any of the twists that are currently being made today none are over 380g.
 

aristoi bcn

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What are small lengths and whats the price like?

Yes, extinguished forever tissues are always special
Might wear a jacket made from lambswool tomorrow to celebrate that fact
I've enquired about, I'll come back with their answer. I'll be receiving some samples too, will post pictures.

ps: that lambswool is very nice, how's the touch? similar to a shetland tweed or more similar to a faux tweed (Alsport)?

Nice cloth. But me and the people I know (on my mother’s life) have tons of baboon lengths lying around. No need for more. Would be interesting for those that do not.

were those other cloths special? Was pre harrisons H Lesser special, or old golden bale flannel or orginal Tonik, sportex and towntex, or Reid and Taylor Twist or Hunters tweed or real west of England flannel (not new fake fox)? How about orginal formulations of Guerliain and Caron juices? What about old Ballyntyne, Pringle and Scott and Charters Cashmere? Ask those that are willing to seek it out and pay for it.

The olde world is pretty much dead. Probably died some time in the 80s. With globalisation, cheaper production and changing tastes there is no going back. Perhaps some threads stuck around till the 90s and early 00s. But the European Union regulations were the death knell for whatever was left.

Make do with what’s available or move on.
I know, I've been offered some lengths of baboon by SForumites but not in the designs I fancy most.

For those who haven't handled ye olde tissues is impossible to establish a comparison with the new ones. I've been lucky enough to have acquired a length of the old Minnis flannel (could get a length through HFW offers section) with the new one, and the old one is much more substantial with a drawn finish, while the new ones seem to be twill worsted with simply a mill finish.
 

FriendCustomer

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I've enquired about, I'll come back with their answer. I'll be receiving some samples too, will post pictures.

ps: that lambswool is very nice, how's the touch? similar to a shetland tweed or more similar to a faux tweed (Alsport)?



I know, I've been offered some lengths of baboon by SForumites but not in the designs I fancy most.

For those who haven't handled ye olde tissues is impossible to establish a comparison with the new ones. I've been lucky enough to have acquired a length of the old Minnis flannel (could get a length through HFW offers section) with the new one, and the old one is much more substantial with a drawn finish, while the new ones seem to be twill worsted with simply a mill finish.
the old HFW lambswool is soft. on a softness spectrum from let's say shetland tweed to cashmere, it is closer to cashmere, but not nearly as soft, fine or luxurious. it is pretty densely woven. in some ways it reminds me a bit of woolen flannel, but not substantial enough for trousers. it is nothing like the worsted alsport which is just like worsted suiting.

these kind of olde world lambswool jacketings, soft faux tweeds, merino wool jackteings, cashmere blend type things, were great jacketings and a great tweed alternative that could be worn into the shoulder season. and significantly cheaper than cashmere. unfortunately jacketing of this type and quality is becoming rarer and rarer. the current italian jacketing books that still regularly offer this kind of stuff epitomize shitty rtw jacketing cloths meant for glue. they lack body and depth. one only needs to compare with the old cloth. An olde tailor in Naples refers to the vintage cloth of this type as Gutteridge cloth. Not because of the the shitty rtw brand gutteridge, but because on Naples a very important cloth merchant up unitl the 80s (which later became the rtw brand) carried many cloths of this type for the connoisseurs. anyone who believe that most current faux tweeds can compare to the good vintage ones needs their head examined.

btw spot on about the old minnis flannel.
 
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FriendCustomer

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I've enquired about, I'll come back with their answer. I'll be receiving some samples too, will post pictures.

ps: that lambswool is very nice, how's the touch? similar to a shetland tweed or more similar to a faux tweed (Alsport)?



I know, I've been offered some lengths of baboon by SForumites but not in the designs I fancy most.

For those who haven't handled ye olde tissues is impossible to establish a comparison with the new ones. I've been lucky enough to have acquired a length of the old Minnis flannel (could get a length through HFW offers section) with the new one, and the old one is much more substantial with a drawn finish, while the new ones seem to be twill worsted with simply a mill finish.
What baboon designs interest you?
Dong Chow blue?
 
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