The Touch! The Tissue Thread TM

SPORTSEX

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Jupiter said:
Now I want a Sportsechs. Is it heavy? The current bunch of Dormeuil is for effeminates with only 380gr/m. Please reveal the name of your greek dealer in MP.
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380 is fine, they have some nice patterns too (i like the greys and the blue POW), it seems good enough and more business friendly, but it ain't the old world rough stuff.

my green check posted above is around 400g, its with the blue wording on the selvage (blue sportex). Sportex with red wording selvage is 450g (red sportex). check out this bad boy red sportex i found in JAPAN (i think i've posted it before).

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There is also older and much older stuff that's even heavier though.
 
Dormeuil website shows very few Sportex. Do you know if they also have a grey POW? There is only one blue.

At some poin I'll have made the grey "donegalish" and I'd also like a grey POW with red/green/orange overcheck.

Apart from that, what are the particularities of their Yorkshire tweed?
 
I need the opinion of the Dukes of DW, namely Cesare and FC (in the absence of the metashemale) on H&S Crispaire. No time nor envy to read the SF thread. Quick answers: good/bad, yes or no?
 
Jupiter said:
I need the opinion of the Dukes of DW, namely Cesare and FC (in the absence of the metashemale) on H&S Crispaire. No time nor envy to read the SF thread. Quick answers: good/bad, yes or no?
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no first hand experience. looked at the book a few years ago, seemed nice enough. its just a regular lightweight panama or tropical weave. the SF hot weather chinamen seem to use it and like. think theres alot of info over there on it. don't really care for that kind of lightweight summer cloth in general but it is somewhat necessary. unlike most of SF igents, i do think that fresco is really too rough for alot of situations (maybe the new fresco 3 is better), not that i generally give a fuck about that sort of thing, i guess i just don't really like it for suits, but think it is great for for odd pants. I always recommend mohair instead of tropicals or fresco, even a small 30 percent kid or less, makes a big difference in terms of performance, but i get why some people have the fear or find it a bit too flash. that kind of stuff doesn't bother me though.
 
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Jupiter said:
I need the opinion of the Dukes of DW, namely Cesare and FC (in the absence of the metashemale) on H&S Crispaire. No time nor envy to read the SF thread. Quick answers: good/bad, yes or no?
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What application? I would venture FriendCustomer FriendCustomer will be a no, but if you live in an unyielding tropical sauna, I've found little more effective than Crispaire. My opinion is it depends on what color or pattern you look at, some of it is super RTW ish, some works well.

CesareRomiti CesareRomiti lives in Siberia, and holidays in the Med, his Crispaire opinion is null and void.

Edit: FriendCustomer beat me to it.
 
doghouse said:
What application? I would venture FriendCustomer FriendCustomer will be a no, but if you live in an unyielding tropical sauna, I've found little more effective than Crispaire. My opinion is it depends on what color or pattern you look at, some of it is super RTW ish, some works well.

CesareRomiti CesareRomiti lives in Siberia, and holidays in the Med, his Crispaire opinion is null and void.

Edit: FriendCustomer beat me to it.
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yes, what application? A no for me. But I take no issue with it being a yes for others.
 
I forgot to add that the creases in my Crispaires held up much longer than anything else I've ever owned.
I pressed them once and they were set so sharply that they would only need touch up after many wears from there on.
 
doghouse said:
What application? I would venture FriendCustomer FriendCustomer will be a no, but if you live in an unyielding tropical sauna, I've found little more effective than Crispaire. My opinion is it depends on what color or pattern you look at, some of it is super RTW ish, some works well.

CesareRomiti CesareRomiti lives in Siberia, and holidays in the Med, his Crispaire opinion is null and void.

Edit: FriendCustomer beat me to it.
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Siberian summers

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FriendCustomer said:
no first hand experience. looked at the book a few years ago, seemed nice enough. its just a regular lightweight panama or tropical weave. the SF hot weather chinamen seem to use it and like. think theres alot of info over there on it. don't really care for that kind of lightweight summer cloth in general but it is somewhat necessary. unlike most of SF igents, i do think that fresco is really too rough for alot of situations (maybe the new fresco 3 is better), not that i generally give a fuck about that sort of thing, i guess i just don't really like it for suits, but think it is great for for odd pants. I always recommend mohair instead of tropicals or fresco, even a small 30 percent kid or less, makes a big difference in terms of performance, but i get why some people have the fear or find it a bit too flash. that kind of stuff doesn't bother me though.
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I chose a H&S Classic Mohair fabric with only 15% mohair. No shine, excellent drape and super breathable. When coming to this discussion about summer fabrics the truth is that when it's really too hot no suit can't be beared.
 
Jupiter said:
I chose a H&S Classic Mohair fabric with only 15% mohair. No shine, excellent drape and super breathable. When coming to this discussion about summer fabrics the truth is that when it's really too hot no suit can't be beared.
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Pretty much that. As my legs can tolerate the rise in mercury; my torso cannot. I find shirting to be of much use in keeping cool in the dog days of summer. C-L Blends. Batiste.

I recall M.Alden advocating heavyweight shirts in the summer for some dubious reason; didn't make much sense to me.
 
doghouse said:
What application? I would venture FriendCustomer FriendCustomer will be a no, but if you live in an unyielding tropical sauna, I've found little more effective than Crispaire. My opinion is it depends on what color or pattern you look at, some of it is super RTW ish, some works well.

CesareRomiti CesareRomiti lives in Siberia, and holidays in the Med, his Crispaire opinion is null and void.

Edit: FriendCustomer beat me to it.
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The summer in Moscow can be super hot. He has necessarily a suit solution.
 
QuandoDio said:
Pretty much that. As my legs can tolerate the rise in mercury; my torso cannot. I find shirting to be of much use in keeping cool in the dog days of summer. C-L Blends. Batiste.

I recall M.Alden advocating heavyweight shirts in the summer for some dubious reason; didn't make much sense to me.
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Wasnt he talking about heavyweight sleeve linen lining or something like that too?
 
Jupiter said:
I need the opinion of the Dukes of DW, namely Cesare and FC (in the absence of the metashemale) on H&S Crispaire. No time nor envy to read the SF thread. Quick answers: good/bad, yes or no?
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I like Crispaire more than I like Fresco. It seems to keep far more crisp. As FriendCustomer FriendCustomer has said it is the H&S plain weave/panama weave version.

I could be wrong but it is usually in heavier weights than Fresco.

I also find it has a nicer hand compared to Fresco

I will second FriendCustomer FriendCustomer on mohair blends being cool wearing and sexier
 
I have trousers made of the three weights of Fresco. The lightest weight bags and the heaviest is like sandpaper. The mid-weight version is very good but a little scratchy. Oreo is making me a suit of the Fresco Mohair (70%wool and 30% mohair). I'll report when made it, some time in April. Having handled Crispaire, it's softer and more refined, but much more expensive than Fresco. What about Finmeresco? There are three or four qualities in the bunch.
 
Aristoi, it seems like you continually have bespoke creations on the go - do you find you wear through things quickly, or is this a wardrobe-building phase? (No judgment intended, I'm just curious, as someone who is rarely in a position to wear CM-style clothes)
 
MES said:
Aristoi, it seems like you continually have bespoke creations on the go - do you find you wear through things quickly, or is this a wardrobe-building phase? (No judgment intended, I'm just curious, as someone who is rarely in a position to wear CM-style clothes)
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I'm just in the middle of my wardrobe-building phase as you say, but in fact, now I have only a formal suit and one pair of linen trousers being made. I'll probably add an overcoat, a blazer and a pair of corduroy trousers during 2018, but that's all. The thing is that 2017 was the year when I found out Cerrato and Oreo tailor that make me very happy and I've speed up some basic wardrobe with them, replacing almost everything I had bought/done before.

I've yet to find a good shirtmaker for the future, but I've around 60 shirts to wear out before I need something, so one shirt in a go before I find the right one.

Apart from that, I've been acquiring some cloth lengths, but they won't be made in the near future.
 
Thinking about Solaro. It would be a good two way suit. I'd be wearing the jacket with grey trousers and jeans. Verri italianindudstrialist imo. Should I go with the original from Smith's right?
I've looked at the online shop of De Paz and 3.5 meters are 600€. How much from Harrison's diretly? Any other sources?
 
aristoi bcn said:
Thinking about Solaro. It would be a good two way suit. I'd be wearing the jacket with grey trousers and jeans. Verri italianindudstrialist imo. Should I go with the original from Smith's right?
I've looked at the online shop of De Paz and 3.5 meters are 600€. How much from Harrison's diretly? Any other sources?
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have you seen Drago solaro? It is in Vantage book, s130 wool far cheaper than Harrison's but I think you can only get it through your tailor.

Btw De Paz is selling Trickers at eur 480, and weejuns at 180, not very cheap....
 
aristoi bcn said:
Thinking about Solaro. It would be a good two way suit. I'd be wearing the jacket with grey trousers and jeans. Verri italianindudstrialist imo. Should I go with the original from Smith's right?
I've looked at the online shop of De Paz and 3.5 meters are 600€. How much from Harrison's diretly? Any other sources?
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Solaro is shit.
 
fxh said:
Solaro is shit.
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fxh said:
Solaro is shit.
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https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3400508/

"In the end, despite the praise and endorsement it received in Britain, Solaro clothing was ultimately shown to be ineffective. James M. Phelan, an American physician in the Philippines, conducted experiments on five hundred U.S. soldiers who wore the clothing and showed that it did nothing to improve health; in fact, as Warwick Anderson points out, Solaro was extremely uncomfortable and probably detrimental to health.84 "

(nabbed from someone on SF who posted the paper originally)
 
robertito said:
have you seen Drago solaro? It is in Vantage book, s130 wool far cheaper than Harrison's but I think you can only get it through your tailor.

Btw De Paz is selling Trickers at eur 480, and weejuns at 180, not very cheap....
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I'll try to find the Drago, sure there is a representative of the Mill in Spain. Thanks for the recommendation.
 
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