UK Bespoke experiences (Capital of shilling)

Lord Buckley said:
Certainly the maestros of Napoli have a competitive edge here.
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They also seem to have a lot more leeway when it comes to the acceptance of the results. Not just the big names like Rubinacci, Panico, Ambrosi and alike, but also the relatively to those no-name tailors, who appear practically out of nowhere and become a big "success". Maybe Italian sugardaddies are just more generous...
 
The golden age for Italian traveling tailors was about 2 years ago. With the GBP tanking British tailors don't look as expensive anymore. Italians are better off selling to US igents these days.
 
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Scherensammler said:
They also seem to have a lot more leeway when it comes to the acceptance of the results. Not just the big names like Rubinacci, Panico, Ambrosi and alike, but also the relatively to those no-name tailors, who appear practically out of nowhere and become a big "success". Maybe Italian sugardaddies are just more generous...
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Just get yourself an #influencer and you are set.
 
Get a dye printer, some 1970's heavy drape curtain designs and you're set on the Italian mambo sprezzarati circuit!
 
Scherensammler said:
Do I have to throw in some extras to keep you happy, too?
Not sure it will be worth it! How many followers does LKP have?
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how many followers you want him to have?

you cut nice english drape cut with nice mantits and flaired skirt? if so, i might be interested in some kick backs
 
doghouse said:
You should look into Jupiter's "perfect back" tailor.
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lol. already talking to alan bees mystery tailor

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Scherensammler said:
The problem is not the chest.


Tailors don't have easy figures, due to the work (we tend to be head forward/ stooping) and it's quite hard to fit oneself.
Not a problem in firms with more than one cutter, so most Italian sartorias seem to be "one master tailor" shows.
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Of course there is a problem of overwheight which explains the exploded waist and the X of death but it can't explain the lapels huge break. The chest has been cut too tight (or he took abs which isn't a plausible hypothesis in his case).
 
When the coat is too tight at the waist it creates several problems. See the X of death. Lots of drags and pulls.
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What he really needs is a corpulent cut, that has a narrow chest and a big waist. Problem is that the Italian systems don't really offer something like that.
In a way you are right, the chest is too small, but only because the waist is totally too small for his paunch.
What the coat lacks of width at the belly it also lacks (proportionally) at the chest.
Another defect that shows up when the waist is too tight, is the collar coming off the neck.
Think of the body as a straight, vertical line (for slim people), and the jacket hanging from the top of it like a pendulum.
When the jacket is pulled forward (big belly or small cut fronts), the back swings away from the neck/ is pulled down.
If the back is cut short (despite being a round back or stooping figure), the fronts swing open when the jacket is unbuttoned.
 
Leaving aside the cut, the whole look is rather tasteful.....



...and bland.

Is tastefulness just another type of blandness...?
 
BespeakUK said:
Objective: Discuss and expose travelling eyetalians we have used and resident shillers
With the proliferation of resident partime igent shillers and fulltime shillers, the UK appears to be the shilling capital of the world where eyetalians appear on a more frequent basis to make a quick euro

Bespeakers I visit
I personally have used Luca Avitabile for shirts, Sartoria Vergallo (suit), Liverano/F.G, Cad and the dandy

Bespeakers I am also aware of
Solito (would be keen to use for a sportsjacket due to silhouette of soft shoulder but again hit and miss with final product however he does visit frequently so hes not going to do a hitandrun with your monies. Furthermore too many simon crampton CEO 10k a day clueless shillers blindly commissioning/worshipping)

Dalcuore (Seems like factory pumped out suit as demand is inevitably high with igent, not too much of a fan of his silhouette which appears more open/shoulders extended)

Caliendo (Heard and seen good things but value for money not so much)

Cerrato - Heard good things/want to try eventually but shillers demand has raised his prices it seems for Londra market

Formosa (seems straight up shiller). Pomella napoli (seems straight shill again)- I have seen this appear out of nothing on IG, and it appears they are trying to compete with ambrosi as they realise idiots are willing to pay 1k euro plus for bespoken trousers

Have also had initial fitting with Abbarchi (shirts) but he returns to the UK twice a year. Even if prices are good, a bespoke shirt needs multiple fittings and I don't have years to wait. So don't rate his service highly at all

Also would be good to catchup with any other resident UK anti-shill artists out there in person in the aim of uncovering the real best gems for tailoringz
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Bespeak,

What about Vergallo? Are you satisfied by their work? I'm interested by some insights on this sartoria.
 
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