WHAT MADE DW SO GREAT ALL OF A SUDDEN?

ConchitaWurst said:
talking about the shibumis, may we have your expert opinion?

what do you think: is our new member Grimod de la Reyniere really the one and only sugardaddy?
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sorry, not sure what you mean? I cutted them off long time ago. I have no other information about them, than on the net and that grimod has never been their sugardaddy. afaik, he helped them to get pitti tickets before they started their own business.

though, rumours are out that even grimod is surprised about the big spendings of benedikt.
 
Shubumi has been quite a sucess story, they really know how to play a crowd and advertise themselves. I have always expected them to start their own clothing business sooner or later, something in line of a small shop with travelling tailors coming in, a German Armoury if you will. This Benedikt fellow surely doesn't travel half the world just for fun and some clothes. Berlin is a sartorial wasteland, apart from a handful of tailors, so there could be some potential in that.

Is this "Gentlemen's Crowd" really a thing? Link?
 
On a more seriuous note, a well coordinated private forum could certainly be a great idea. If it was on a personal basis it could provide a stable customer base and make it easier to bring craftsmen to your country. With guaranteed orders of a certain number and a percentage of the payment being done in advance, it would also be possible to bring down prices for both the work and the material, for example if many wanted flannel trousers in a certain colour. Unfortunately people never really seem intersted in something like this, even though a forum could probably provide the help needed by newcomers.

In Germany a blog called Slowwear tries something along these lines. They organise regular visits of Sartoria Colazzo from Puglia and a shirtmaker called Lilian Fock to Frankfurt. Everything is bespoke and the Sartoria's prices are much lower than when they worked together with a menswear store near Frankfurt.
 
ConchitaWurst said:
were they initially organizing trunk shows for the parma tailor adamo de togni? hes in a lot of their facebook pictures
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You mean Bespoke Service? That's another story. Slowwear is a blog with a history of bashing German menswear stores, their labels and practices, so they strated to bring the Colazzos without taking any fees, comissions or anything. Suits are around 1500€. Their stuff is nice, I do have some RTW trousers made by them, unfortuntely they're a bit low rise.

Bespoke Service started when Herbert Stricker/Grimod offered something called Bespoke Consulting and took people to Verona to Sartoria de Togni and Camiceria Bellamoli advising them on the bespoke process for a fee. He then brought the De Tognis to Frankfurt, calling it Bespoke Service and getting help from the Shibumis. They later stopped this, because allegedly it was too much work, I simply think there wasn't enough money to be made. Two Stilmagazin members took over this idea and now the De Tognis, Roberto Ugolini and shirtmaker D'Avino, after a one off visit by Camiceria Bellamoli, come to the Munich area every two months.

I think it's a great offer, if you want a bespoke suit for a good price and have someone help you with the process. Considered attending myself, but the De Togni's stuff is a bit lacklustre and looks like run-of-the-mill bespoke, same is true for Camiceria Bellamoli. D'Avino and Ugolini are great though.
 
Lobbster said:
D'Avino and Ugolini are great though.
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fox_allears.jpg
 
Not good? I've seen some of his shirts and found them nice but expensive, no first hand experience though. He's very popular with menswear authority Simon Crompton, so he must be the best in Napoli. Do you know any alternatives?
 
ghost said:
I understand your post, but do you have thoughts on Ugolini?
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07.jpg

i just do not like this kind of shoe

Lobbster said:
Not good? I've seen some of his shirts and found them nice but expensive, no first hand experience though. He's very popular with menswear authority Simon Crompton, so he must be the best in Napoli. Do you know any alternatives?
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i do know alternatives
one alternative untested so far - the trio did not make it!
 
LKP said:
07.jpg

i just do not like this kind of shoe



i do know alternatives
one alternative untested so far - the trio did not make it!
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I agree with your sentiment, for the most part. Certainly based upon the photo that you posted. The tan one in the center comes the closest, but the toe is to severe, and the color is not my favorite.

I have seen some nice examples of suede shoes and chukkas that he has made, but I'm not sure how much of it was driven by the customer.
 
LKP said:
07.jpg

i just do not like this kind of shoe



i do know alternatives
one alternative untested so far - the trio did not make it!
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Where did you take the shirtings one of you bought? I thought one of you used Anna Matuozza.

I had some shirts made by Merolla a couple of years ago. The cut was very nice and they've held up better than some of my other bespoke shirts but he never got the collar right, even though we experimented with different styles and linings.

Don't understand the sentiments towards Ugolini. They're bespoke shoes, so you can tell him what style you want and he probably won't force you to have them made in baybypoo karibu. I like Ugolini, but then I like a chiseled toe. His round lasts aren't very good though.
 
Lobbster said:
Where did you take the shirtings one of you bought? I thought one of you used Anna Matuozza.

I had some shirts made by Merolla a couple of years ago. The cut was very nice and they've held up better than some of my other bespoke shirts but he never got the collar right, even though we experimented with different styles and linings.

Don't understand the sentiments towards Ugolini. They're bespoke shoes, so you can tell him what style you want and he probably won't force you to have them made in baybypoo karibu. I like Ugolini, but then I like a chiseled toe. His round lasts aren't very good though.
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ask ConchitaWurst ConchitaWurst about his sweaty sex with one of the a. m. girls
i dislike italian shoes
i dislike bespoke shoes
I LIKE ALDENS!!!!
 
Lobbster said:
Ugolini is great though.
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I do not doubt this. the first commission via the "new" bespoke service had a wonky welt seam and was just not acceptable. of course it got a lot of praise and applause.

I'd like to see the pictures from the latest run. someone can play?
 
walker said:
I do not doubt this. the first commission via the "new" bespoke service had a wonky welt seam and was just not acceptable. of course it got a lot of praise and applause.

I'd like to see the pictures from the latest run. someone can play?
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Pictures or links showing the seam?

I met an elderly gentlemen at my local menswear store who wore some black captoe Ugolinis and talked to the clerk about them, having received them a week before. I looked at them and thought they were fine, the welt was okay though nothing spectacular, the last was nice same as the leather. He told me they were his best fitting shoes in comparison to some Lobb St.James' and Vickermann & Stoyas, though he found the Lobbs were better made. This fits with what I've heard from other people I trust in these matters. I see him in the area of Maftei or somewhere below Materna and Balint.
 
walker said:
1. the pictures from here: Bespoke Service and Friends am 02.04.2016 am Tegernsee - Stilmagazin
2. real connaisseurs, I assume
3. you're a funny dude.

I'm aware that fit is paramount, no worries.
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LKP LKP My milage varies indeed. Complimenti.

Real connaisseurs? No, just people with a vast experince in bespoke and a great liking for good shoes. Scheer, Materna, Foster's, Klemann, Lobb Paris & St. James and some more. I have bespoke shoes by Balint and Maftei myself, so I should be able to compare them too. I'm well aware of the quality of Austrian bespoke makers and what they're capable of. Still, I think Ugolini is worth a try and why not point out the shortcomings to him? I'm sure he is willing to correct them for people who are concerned.
 
we talk about different things. nvm.

Lobbster said:
LKP LKP My milage varies indeed. Complimenti.

Real connaisseurs? No, just people with a vast experince in bespoke and a great liking for good shoes. Scheer, Materna, Foster's, Klemann, Lobb Paris & St. James and some more. I have bespoke shoes by Balint and Maftei myself, so I should be able to compare them too. I'm well aware of the quality of Austrian bespoke makers and what they're capable of. Still, I think Ugolini is worth a try and why not point out the shortcomings to him? I'm sure he is willing to correct them for people who are concerned.
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Lobbster said:
LKP LKP

Real connaisseurs? No, just people with a vast experince in bespoke and a great liking for good shoes. Scheer, Materna, Foster's, Klemann, Lobb Paris & St. James and some more. I have bespoke shoes by Balint and Maftei myself, ...
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top elite, complimenti
 
Lobbster said:
LKP LKP My milage varies indeed. Complimenti.

Real connaisseurs? No, just people with a vast experince in bespoke and a great liking for good shoes. Scheer, Materna, Foster's, Klemann, Lobb Paris & St. James and some more. I have bespoke shoes by Balint and Maftei myself, so I should be able to compare them too. I'm well aware of the quality of Austrian bespoke makers and what they're capable of. Still, I think Ugolini is worth a try and why not point out the shortcomings to him? I'm sure he is willing to correct them for people who are concerned.
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Hey Lobbster, do you also go under the name of Johnny's Lobbster at FNB.com? Love the name very much.
 
walker said:
why can't other top elitist not be so relaxed and down to earth. they are always eingeschnappt so easily or are they just crying in mamas schoss? buhuhu
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they need to empty their nuts properly
shoot them loads
again and again
and there will be sunshine EVERY DAY!
 
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