Do you have a common friend in Facebook with that tailor?
Do zara really manufacture in Zaragoza? I thought it was Portugal like majority of the MTM online Americans (Haberdashers...)


As you must know, ZARA is studied on some MBA, i did.

They have a powerful computer system who in real time let´s them know who and where can produce a fast order of X garments and deliver in X time. Even my family did crap losing money (against my will of course, i took my % and went out) for them 10 years ago.

That Zaragoza factory does for almost all the entry level of Spain, but the honest sell around 200e and this fake untailor and tacky of Lander Or-truño maybe for 1500 and telling is bespoke.

See this crap;

And see him, a weirdo tacky hipster who fools all his clients.

See the 1 euro per meter thick bad fabric of his unshirts.

See his none pattern matching, poor ties and fusing even on the lapels.

He is a " designer" ( and poor one)
Lander crap.jpg
Lander crap.jpg
Lander hortera .jpg
lander camisas.jpg
lander basura _n.jpg
who fakes to be tailor.

He is also the dressers of all the degenerates as this married with another " man" ( for real)
Lander talla 2013-04-01 a las 17.06.55.png
lander shit 41351238_801509155_n.jpg
 
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Again,

The WORST TAILOR OF SPAIN, Langa te Tanga and the second worse shirtmaker, now they copy this Neapolitan cuff, with over a 100 years of history, and say they have just invented it;


El puño, es una obra original de Mariano A. Langa, un puño mosquetero de dos botones y corte diagonal redondeado, similar a un puño para gemelo. El resultado: elegancia y distinción.

Bunch of liars whose pics are on the walls of the elite tailoring schools of the world as prove of TAILORING ABERRATION.

Also the button is pure polyester and the bad ones.

http://www.sastrerialanga.com/camiseria-a-medida-lujo-a-tu-alcance/
Manga_camisa_1-1.jpg
 
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^ That's also known as a "cocktail cuff".

Turnbull & Asser (and possibly some other English shirtmakers) were making shirts with cocktail cuffs more than fifty years ago. It may have been around even longer than that, but I know that people like Sean Connery, David Niven and (I think) Pablo Picasso wore shirts with cocktail cuffs back in the early 1960s.

Connery, of course, famously wore them when he played the role of James Bond in "Dr No" in 1962.
 
^ That's also known as a "cocktail cuff".

Turnbull & Asser (and possibly some other English shirtmakers) were making shirts with cocktail cuffs more than fifty years ago. It may have been around even longer than that, but I know that people like Sean Connery, David Niven and (I think) Pablo Picasso wore shirts with cocktail cuffs back in the early 1960s.

Connery, of course, famously wore them when he played the role of James Bond in "Dr No" in 1962.


No way; El puño, es una obra original de Mariano A. Langa, un puño mosquetero de dos botones y corte diagonal redondeado, similar a un puño para gemelo. El resultado: elegancia y distinción.


Is an original creation of Mariano A. Langa , they say.

I can´t stand this damn fakers, the asshole who fakes is master tailor with 36 years, called in Naples master of horrors works there. He is the creator of all the pattern mess expossed before.
Also see how poorly made is this collar by them.

Also on their deep ignorance call it Italian collar while is French collar. The crappy 1 cent plastic button for a circa 200 euros unshirt is a laugh.
Cuello_Italiano-955x590.jpg
 
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I do like rounded corners on jacket lapels, very pre-modern in design. Would be nice to find an un-untailor who makes them.
 
Why is that ticket pocket so high up on the rib cage???
I do like rounded corners on jacket lapels, very pre-modern in design. Would be nice to find an un-untailor who makes them.
I know! I'm liking this detail and think it would work on the summery coat that I need to get at some point.
 
Why is that ticket pocket so high up on the rib cage???

I know! I'm liking this detail and think it would work on the summery coat that I need to get at some point.


Why?

BECAUSE LANDER URQUIJO is not a tailor, not patternmaker but barely a designer, he makes a sketch on pencil
of an aberration, and then poor patternmakers without any idea of tailoring, do the pattern for his fused mass production.

All the cheapo online mtm are the same crap, but this wise guy charges maybe 1500 euros instead of 150 because he fakes the Spaniards, who got any idea, he is tailor.

The scam is almost better than the Federal Reserve printing fake money daily.
 
Relax. These fools didn't invent the rounded collar. I give the devil his due and admit that they dug up one old feature that I like.
 
Relax. These fools didn't invent the rounded collar. I give the devil his due and admit that they dug up one old feature that I like.

I want to execute all them by fakers, scammers, shills, bribeds of drugaddicted bloggers ( for real) and degenerate corrupted souls.
 
_DSC0691.jpg
ANOTHER SHILL AND IGNORANT AND LANGA TE TANGA, WORST EVER LIAR AND SHIT-MAKER.


EDIT, HE IS THE BEARDY, AND THIS IS A " PERFECT FIT SHIRT;

Also , note how poorly sewn is the " bassino" or "orlo", it should be folded TWICE but is folded once, and with a stitch every kilometer instead of 8 sitches per centimeter as the RULES say.

YES is handmade, but POORLY HANDMADE, JUST TO FOOL THIS KIND OF IGNORANTS.

Aquí vemos un detalle que mre recuerda a los rollinos de los pañuelos hechos a mano, y es que los bajos de esta camisa también están realizados de forma artesanal.

THE SIDES ARE POORLY SEWN. NO WAY ANY REAL SHIRT IS SEWN THIS POORLY WAY.



Ahora veamos con todo detalle, cómo sienta puesta. Adelanto que aunque algunos piensen que una camisa a medida debe quedar ajustada al cuerpo como si fuera una segunda piel -pensamiento erróneo desde mi punto de vista- Yo pienso que la clave de este tipo de prendas es que hagan sentir cómodo al que las porta.


HE SAYS, PERFECT PLACEMENT AND FIT OF SHOULDERS, THE SHOULDER IS WAY OFF OF HIS RIGHT PLACE, THIS SHILL IS AN IGNORANT SHILL


Arriba vemos cómo encaja a la perfección en hombros, algo que podemos comprobar también desde otro punto de vista en esta visión lateral que nos ofrece la siguiente imagen.

The shirt fits well in neck and shoulders. ( JAJAJAJAJA HE SAID) TOTAL LACK OF PATTERNMATCHING ON A SUPER EASY TO MATCH STRIPE, JAJA THIS SCAMMER WOULD NEVER GET ANY DEGREE ON TAILORING ON ANY SERIOUS SCHOOL AS MINES.

BAGS ON THE BREAST, SCYE, YOKE, EVERYWHERE, POOR TASTE TO COMMISION A GREEN SHIRT, THAT IS ANOTHER HISTORY...


Como vemos abajo, parece que se decantan por un canesú alto y más bien estrecho, quizás para hacer mejor la forma curva de la espalda. Lo cierto es que esto en mi caso me favorece, pues me aporta una espalda bastante limpia de arrugas sin necesidad de recurrir a pinzas altas bajo el canesú.

( VERY CLEAN BACK, JAJAJAJA THE BACK IS A MESS SO THE SLEEVES)





En la imagen sobre estas líneas vemos como Mariano comprueba que las medidas concuerdan con mi fisionomía y con las tomadas en la anterior visita.

Mariano check measurements with my body.

( HE SAYS THE UNTAILOR CHECKS THE MEASURE DO MATCH " PERFECTLY" HIS BODY, NOT ONLY IS A SHILL, BUT NEEDS THICK GLASSES, JAJAJA

edited; HE DOUBLECHECKS THE MEASURES TO SEE IF THEY MATCHES THE FIRST MEASUREMENTS,

ME; THEN WHY IS ADDING DARTS AFTER THE SHIRT IS DELIVERED? JAJAJAJA


En la imagen inferior vemos como se toman referencias y se marcan las pinzas de la espalda, recurso con el que se consigue que la camisa se ciña más en cintura y sobre menos tela en esta zona. Este será el único retoque que habrá que hacerle a la camisa tras probarla.


NOTE THIS IS FAKE MTM, THAT THE TAILOR HAS TO ADD PLEATS ONCE THE SHIRT IS FINISHED, WHAT KIND OF SCAM IS THIS? THEY SEEM TO USE INDUSTRIAL BODY SIZES, AND FAKE THEY DO MTM OR BESPOKE, AS ORAZIO DOES.

Las iniciales bordadas, esta vez a la altura del pecho, suelen ser un claro distintivo de que una camisa ha sido realizada a medida. No sé porqué pero por mucho que he retocado, en esta imagen no he conseguido sacar un color fidedigno del tono verde de la camisa, quizás afectado por el contraste con la corbata de color morado.


THE BUTTONS ARE 1 CENT POLYESTER

THE CUFF OF A BESPOKE SHIRT, EVEN LACKS OF THE REAL MEASURE OF THE CLIENT JAJAJA


Las iniciales bordadas, esta vez a la altura del pecho, suelen ser un claro distintivo de que una camisa ha sido realizada a medida. No sé porqué pero por mucho que he retocado, en esta imagen no he conseguido sacar un color fidedigno del tono verde de la camisa, quizás afectado por el contraste con la corbata de color morado.



Abajo vemos detalle del puño puesto. Como os decía antes, sencillo y eficaz. ¿Para qué más?


THE BUTTONHOLES ARE POORLY MADE, FOR AN IGNORANT WHO HAS ANY IDEA ABOUT HANDMADE, MUST BE THE MOST, FOR THE REST IS TRUE CRAP.

NOTE THE CUFF IS TOO WIDE FOR HIM, IS THIS " BESPOKE"? THE UNTAILOR IGNORES THE CUFFS ARE MADE TO MEASURE OF THAT PART ( NOTE ANY UNTAILOR OF MADRID KNOWS IT, NOW AFTER MY CRITIQUE, THEY WILL START)


Una de las cosas que más me gusta de esta camisa es su cuello. Según me comentaba Mariano, lo encuentro muy favorecedor porque el pie de cuello del mismo está realizado de forma escotada. Es decir, que va en disminución de altura conforme nos acercamos al punto de abotonadura.

He says this nonsense, the collar band is done curved, as it was a super feature, while is like saying, the fire is very hot. OF COURSE THE COLLAR BAND ARE CURVED, OR STRAIGHT, IT DEPENDS OF THE SHAPE OF THE BUYER, YOU, AND THAT UNTAILOR IGNORES A BASIC RULE OF SHIRTMAKING I LEARNT ON MY FIRST WEEK ON HIGH TAILORING SCHOOL. IGNORANTS!

One of the things I love about this shirt is its collar. ( HE SAYS)

NOTE THE ASSYMETRIC BAD MACHINE STITCHING, NOW COMPARE WITH THE BEAUTIFUL FINE, PERFECT STITCHING OF A KITON OR TRUE NEAPOLITAN SHIRT AS OURS.

WHO ON THE SANE MIND( SURE NOT THIS SCAMMERS) WOULD DO A 3 HAND PASSAGES AND THEN PUT A 1 CENT POLYESTER BUTTON ON A POORLY MADE BUTTONHOLE?





Y para terminar, y que podáis ver esta camisa en un contexto completo os dejo esta imagen que ya habéis podido ver algunos por las Redes Sociales…


SEE THE FRONT OF THE SHIRT TOTALLY WRINKLED, DUE TO A POOR PATTERNMAKING AND FIT, THIS NEVER HAPPENS ON ANY KITON OR OUR TRUE NEAPOLITAN SHIRTS, THE RULE NUMBER 1 OF A BESPOKE SHIRT IS TO HAVE ANY BAG OF REMAINING CLOTH AND CLEAN FRONT, ALSO THE TOO TALL NECK, THE UNTAILOR EVEN DOESN´T KNOWS THE RULES OF DRESSING.

Note he even said he invented the Neapolitan cuff jajajaja


Esta ha sido mi primera camisa a medida de confección artesanal, y presiento que no será la última. Como habéis podido observar a lo largo de estas imágenes, esta camisa si ya era especial por sus detalles lo es un poco más por el precioso tono verdoso escogido. Atípico y muy favorecedor, sobre todo para la época de buen tiempo que nos espera ahora.

HE SAYS, THE GOOD GREEN TONE LOOKS GREAT, GREEN SHIRTS ARE AVOIDED ON THE CLASSIC CODE, ONLY FOR TACKYS AS HIM, THE FUSED JACKET IS POOR AS HELL.

El precio de esta camisa con este tipo de tejido ronda los 140-160 euros, que a tenor del trabajo, dedicación y servicio que lleva detrás se me antoja un precio bastante acorde.


Proceso de Camisa a medida en Sastrería Langa. (Capítulo II) - SinAbrochar

NOTE THE POOR JACKET AND SLEEVES OF THE UNTAILOR, LANGA, TE TANGA. THE BEARD WITH THE POOR SHIRT IS THE BLOGGER SHILL

THIS IS A SOCIALIST POLITICIAN ON A LANGA´S UNJACKET; JAJAJA NOTE THE NECK GAP.

Tanga 6_2289856154062557858_n.jpg
 
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Wow Sarto - that made sense (mostly).

I agree about most things you point out - the collar is an abortion (by design and execution), the cuffs are obviously too big, the shoulders are saggy... To cap it off he's had to add darts! WTF would you need to put darts in a MTM shirt??! Unless you are an incompetent fake untailor.

Honestly, if you wanted a shirt like that you could buy one for $20 from KMart and have your local Chinese alterations lady add a silly monogram and darts... and voila!

The only thing I like is the fabric type - looks like 'twin twill' I think it's called, which is the best for a striped shirt IMO. Hate the green colour though.
 
To cap it off he's had to add darts! WTF would you need to put darts in a MTM shirt??! Unless you are an incompetent fake untailor.

I tend to agree, but I've been surprised by the number of made-to-order and even bespoke shirts with darts that I've seen.

I would have thought that darts would be unnecessary in a shirt that's been specifically cut and made to fit your body, but perhaps I'm wrong.

Sarto - can you provide an explanation? Would darts ever need to be added to a bespoke shirt? Perhaps if the person had a big chest and shoulders and a small waist with a back that curves in? Would darts be needed then, or could you deal with that by curving the side-seam more and putting fabric in the front and less in the back of the shirt?
 
I tend to agree, but I've been surprised by the number of made-to-order and even bespoke shirts with darts that I've seen.

I would have thought that darts would be unnecessary in a shirt that's been specifically cut and made to fit your body, but perhaps I'm wrong.

Sarto - can you provide an explanation? Would darts ever need to be added to a bespoke shirt? Perhaps if the person had a big chest and shoulders and a small waist with a back that curves in? Would darts be needed then, or could you deal with that by curving the side-seam more and putting fabric in the front and less in the back of the shirt?


Sure,

I personally hate darts, and thought it was a class b tailoring.

Sadly are a must on people as you said, with back curvature as per example i am,to reduce the fly and bulk on the fabric on the back, if not added, would make me or others look bellied while are very skinny on the real.

There is a limit of waist supression before the shirt does ugly wrinkles as on that crap of unshirt, after that, darts are necesary.

But darts are added on the pattern before cutting the fabric, calculated already, as a REAL TAILOR does, also are sewn as are part of the pattern as well as the collar size or rest by any reason are added later as on this FAKE MTM CASE. IS OBVIOUS THIS LANGA IS FOOLING HIS CLIENTELE DELIVERING INDUSTRIAL SHIRTS DISGUISSED AS BESPOKE OR MTM WHERE HE ADDS 3 POOR HANDMADE PASSAGES TO FOOL THE SHIRT IS " ARTHISANAL", WHILE IS A DAMN FAKE.

ALSO RULE NUMBER 1 OF THE TAILOR, IS TO ELIMINATE ALL THE DEFECTS, is not to cut a great cut, BUT TO QUIT THE DEFECTS, THIS CRAP IS PLENTY OF MISTAKES, IT´S A BIG MISTAKE ITSELF, AS BURGOS UNSHIRT.

We have another Orazio Luciano here.

EDITED; EVEN THE DARTS ARE UGLY MADE, A GREAT TAILOR WOULD HAVE FOLLOWED SUBTLE THE STRIPE, BUT THIS SCAMMERS DID A RANDOM ON THE FLY DIAGONAL DART, RUINING THE ALREADY HORRIBLE BACK.

LANGA, SCAMMER WHO SHILLED CRAPTOM AND THE ARSTOCRAT AND THIS ALONSO JR.

Como vemos abajo, parece que se decantan por un canesú alto y más bien estrecho, quizás para hacer mejor la forma curva de la espalda. Lo cierto es que esto en mi caso me favorece, pues me aporta una espalda bastante limpia de arrugas sin necesidad de recurrir a pinzas altas bajo el canesú.

( VERY CLEAN BACK, JAJAJAJA THE BACK IS A MESS SO THE SLEEVES)

NOTE; HE SAYS NOW THAT THE UNTAILOR GOT A " CLEAN" BACK BECAUSE HE DIDN´T USE THE TWO UPPER PLEATS UNDER THE YOKE, AS IT THOSE PLEATS( NOT DARTS) WERE INVENTED FOR THAT BUT TO GIVE MORE ROOM TO THE SHIRT.

I CAN´T STAND THIS SHILLS WHO GOT NO IDEA BUT WANT TO LIVE MONTHLY OUT OF THEIR LIES AND NON SENSE.

 
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Resume; what can you spect from a " tailor" who " learnt" on the worst ever shirtmaker, called Burgos, and not on a proper tailoring school?

What can you spect from a " tailor" who wears this sleeves?

_dsc0691-jpg.4854
ANOTHER SHILL AND IGNORANT AND LANGA TE TANGA, WORST EVER LIAR AND SHIT-MAKER.


Note, what can you spect from a "tailor" on this sleeve and poor shirt neck, that is almost eaten by the badly done by himself jacket collar ( also poor)?

EDITED, FROM THE SPANISH ARTICLE ;

edited; HE DOUBLECHECKS THE MEASURES TO SEE IF THEY MATCHES THE FIRST MEASUREMENTS,

ME SARTO; THEN WHY IS ADDING DARTS AFTER THE UNSHIRT IS DELIVERED, NON SENSE? JAJAJAJA


ON NAPLES IF ANY DELIVERS SUCH A RICE BAG SHOULD BE SLAPPED, PUNCHED AND HIS SHOP BURNT FOR SCAM, THIS IS FOR REAL. ON THE CONTRARY THIS UNTAILOR DARES TO SAY HE INVENTED LAST WEEK THE NEAPOLITAN CUFF. JAJAJA
 
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ugly double chin
maybe the initials could be a BIT HIGHER?

I do not share the hate for the green/white shirt though
I'd combine it differently however...
 
ugly double chin
maybe the initials could be a BIT HIGHER?

I do not share the hate for the green/white shirt though
I'd combine it differently however...

you are like luca . you combine every shirt . with every tie . with every z00t .
 
IMG_2075.JPG
The untailor who does this and the two shills, note the arstocrat on suspenders, side adjuster and even with it, the trouser fits poor and does pleats over the shoe.
 
Without wanting to sound too pedantic, this is the Agreeable Menswear thread.

So, please don't post things in here that you find disagreeable - there's another thread for that:

http://www.dressedwell.net/threads/disagreeable-menswear-post-of-the-day.763/page-102#post-92047

Also, Sarto, there's a thread for your vendetta against makers of tacky unshirts:
http://www.dressedwell.net/threads/...n-who-also-happen-to-be-tackies-exposed.1733/


That is an agreeable thread, because i agreeded with the content, so i posted it here.

Also, this thread is also dead, so needs a bit of action. I come to the rescue.

Edit; where is my f. post?
 
An idiot wanabbe shirtmaker as UNLUXIRE asks this;



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Posted 16 February 2015 - 11:50 AM

Hi everyone,



We’re two young entrepreneurs that want to start a custom made shirts selling platform in Europe. The marketing plan and business model is already predetermined and we’re now looking for a supplier that can produce our shirts based on different style.



We started investigating in Asia, and mostly in Thailand where we could find some small tailor shops ready to cut and sew our product. Unfortunately, the great distance and communication problems were big issues in our business that didn’t allow us to have a perfect follow up of the orders.



Today, we’re looking for a manufacturer in Europe and we found Portugal to be an appropriate place with great experience in this field. Unfortunately, we haven’t found our manufacturer yet and we’re planning on going there in a couple of months in order to investigate what can be done. Obviously before going over there, we’d like to have a few hints on the region, area and places we could visit and people who we should meet.



Could anyone help guide us on finding the appropriate contacts in Portugal so we can plan our trip over there?



Thanks



MY ANSWER;


Another run on the mill mtm shirt as those scammers of UNLUXIRE that even has no idea no produce shirts and wants to screw we real honest shirtmakers?



JAJAJA



Better you open a McDonalds franchise if you want to deliver poor product and/or poison clients with chinesse toxic fabrics or fake toxic meal , jjajajaja

Better you leave the textile world, i desire you the best of luck on getting a MCDonalds franchise instead of doing terrible shirts without having any idea as on this case.



JAJAJAJA
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NO THANKS!
 
I am sure they will appreciate your candid response to their questions

But worse is this saying he uses unfabrics. jajajaja He said once Borrelli shirts were no good, and now that he uses Indian fabrics. Poor of the ones who book him, guess who is gonna be the next who do we laugh loud once i return with the Kiton team where the grandson of Borrelli is the master?

shirtmaven

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 08:01 PM

Suitsupply used to use a good factory in Portugal. not sure who. most of the fabric used came from a mill in India that I work with.
 
Carl has said he deals with Indian mills as well as with other suppliers. You knew this when you took offence to what he said in his interview with SF months ago. Don't you remember?
 
How did you know?

Are you JRD who i just pmd the link?

I am laughing loud. JAJAJAJAJAJA

UNFABRICS jajajajaja and proud of it, jajajaja but bashes the best shirtmaker in the world. jajajaja

No, I just recognize every blank avatar from every menswear and tailors forum that exists. I'm a savant.
 
Carl has said he deals with Indian mills as well as with other suppliers. You knew this when you took offence to what he said in his interview with SF months ago. Don't you remember?

Sure, there was were he said Borrelli shirts were no good, and handwork was a hype. Yes but paying, how much are his machinemade ugly unshirts with Indian unfabrics? the salary of a real shirtmaker Neapolitan sewer on 3-4 days?

edit; he also said he got chinesse workers, no offense on chinesse people, but he seems an slavist who delivers a POOR product and even is proud of it.

He is also proud to use the worst interlining that is discharted by the top shirtmakers.

The man is a real pennypincher who dares to ask mad prices for Wallmart like unshirts.

Worse is not doing that, worse are the clients who go there.
 
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