Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

Russell Street

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Not that anybody asked, but the tailor that I have used is Manny Toyo of Toyo's Tailoring in lovely North Bergen, New Jersey. Carl Goldberg of CEGO has recommended him and he proves to be very affordable and surprisingly knowledgeable.
He has amazing attention to detail, and is especially obsessed with pattern matching. He is one of the few people that do the time-consuming task of matching patterns of the collar to the lapel, and it is very precise. Doing it all in-house, the turnaround time is quick, like under a month from start to finish with a fitting.
As with all tailors, the website is uninspiring. http://www.toyostailoring.com/
 

doghouse

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Excellent. Always like to hear of a US based tailor who is actually worth a damn.
 

Russell Street

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So my tailor openly discourages cotton/linen stuff, saying it is a waste of money as you pay the same for construction for a less durable product. But the idea of something cooler appeals to me. Good idea or no?
 

Thruth

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All depends on what you are looking for. Open weave wools probably would wear just as cool with better longevity and less wrinkling. Panama weave, hopsack. Fresco, and other makers versions, like H&S Crispaire. Mohair/wool blends? Why not just tropical wool? Is it the look of the cotton/linen you want?

Harrison's EBay shop has several Italian Panama weave fabrics for sale. That's assuming your tailor is fine with you providing your own fabric.
 

Russell Street

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I made the mistake of allowing my fresco blazer to be fully lined, and it is not what it should be in easy breathing capability. I don't know, I'm just not used to the notion of warm hot weather coats. I suspect that whole wrinkling thing would drive me nuts almost immediately.
 

Thruth

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I thought mohair was warm?

A wool mohair blend is cooler than all wool. You have a light fabric with nice drape (but a sheen). The mohair works well for moisture exchange. Despos recommends mohair when a summer suit needs to be more formal versus linen.
 

Thruth

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i'm old, i live in the past, but it still remains the best discussion on the topic to date
 

Russell Street

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That hasn't been updated in 3 years.
Has the fabric world changed that much? I hate to epitomize the indecisive igent, but the nearly endless options availability of options and the higher associated cost does lead to a certain paralysis of choice at times.
 

Chorn

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What I don't get is people who get summer jackets which are tight fitting. That's just dumb. If you're going to wear it in the summer, it needs to be loose. I have some unfortunately slim linen jackets that wear way warmer than a looser fresco. None are lined.

Kent Wang recommended I start getting all my linen and linen-wool stuff totally unstructured--no canvas whatsoever. I'm not sure I'm ready for that, though I think if I ever look into a cotton-linen blend (can't imagine why I would unless I liked the pattern), I might consider it.
 

Thruth

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What I don't get is people who get summer jackets which are tight fitting. That's just dumb. If you're going to wear it in the summer, it needs to be loose. I have some unfortunately slim linen jackets that wear way warmer than a looser fresco. None are lined.

Kent Wang recommended I start getting all my linen and linen-wool stuff totally unstructured--no canvas whatsoever. I'm not sure I'm ready for that, though I think if I ever look into a cotton-linen blend (can't imagine why I would unless I liked the pattern), I might consider it.

How often do you find that you have to have your linen or cotton/linen pressed?

I have avoided linen to this point in favour of lightweight wool for this reason.
 

Thruth

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Chorn, have you discussed non-canvassed construction with your tailor? I'd be interested to hear that opinion.

Certainly a non-canvassed jacket would be cooler but would it render it unfit for the office environment? I suppose it depends on the office environment but lack of structure results in a very casual piece.

Alternatively you could have a half-canvassed or even light fusing instead to provide shape where it is needed most coupled with it being unlined, quarter or half-lined to wear cooler
 

Thruth

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Has the fabric world changed that much? I hate to epitomize the indecisive igent, but the nearly endless options availability of options and the higher associated cost does lead to a certain paralysis of choice at times.

Unless the high tech fabrics like Zegna Cool Effects with nanotechnology to reflect the sun's rays are considered, fabric has not changed that much. It still comes down to fabric material, the weight and the weave on how warm it wears.
 

Chorn

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I generally get my linen pieces half canvassed as opposed to full, quarter lined. I don't press them too often as I like the wrinkles. Keeps them extra casual.

Also, I have a suit made up of some Cool Effects fabric. It does wear cool.
 

Thruth

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Thanks for that. I think half-cavassed is the way to go to maintain structure for the formalness of the business environment while making the jacket wear cooler. Quarter lining for ease of wear versus fully unlined.

Good to know about your experience with Cool Effects, opens up other options for hot weather days.
 

Rambo

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Cool effects fabric? This sounds like something I need in my life. Please to explain.
Has the fabric world changed that much? I hate to epitomize the indecisive igent, but the nearly endless options availability of options and the higher associated cost does lead to a certain paralysis of choice at times.
No idea. I was just pointing it out in case it hadn't been noticed.
 

Thruth

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Cool effects fabric? This sounds like something I need in my life. Please to explain.

Has a nano particle coating in the wool to reflect the sun's rays.
 

Thruth

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Yup. Zegna says it means you can wear dark suits under the hot summer sun
 

Russell Street

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What I don't get is people who get summer jackets which are tight fitting. That's just dumb.
QFT. Here is a dummy.
Years ago, the first time I saw my tailor, he tried to upsell on a lighter weight canvas. I wasn't interested at the time, and he never really mentioned it again. Presumably such a thing would be cooler and less structured?
 

Chorn

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Yeah, I have a lightweight canvas on my linen-wool from B&T. It definitely makes a difference. A big difference. Outside of being cooler, I just like the way it feels. I think tchoy has all of his from them with lightweight canvas.
 
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doghouse

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This fabric has got me in it's gravitational pull.
 

Russell Street

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Really, for the cost of bespoke you had better love it and if you can sleep on it all the better.
 

doghouse

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from the necktie thread
That jacketing is fantastic. I wonder how heavy it is? It's conundrum when you get things you associate with warm weather but in a heavy weight.

There is a couple jackets I've pondered like that though for Fl/Carib in winter when you can chilly days.
 

Chorn

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It is an awesome fabric. My one regret is the tailor fucked up the breast pocket. I didn't give him enough fabric (so partially my fault) but instead of letting me know (and giving me the option to switch to a welt from a patch), he just put it on there all willy nilly.

But yes. Amazing fabric. I would absolutely buy again.

I believe the eBay purveyor fabriccorneruk carries it. They also carry several varieties (darker/lighter windowpane, darker/lighter color, and I think in green). I can't remember what mill it comes from, but it's a decent one. The fabric itself feels sturdy as all else.
 

doghouse

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16oz


(sleeves of that shirt are a bit long)

If I didn't already feel set for tweed, these two would also have caught my fancy
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Green-with-...Jacketing-and-Suiting-2-50-Mtrs-/121077400796

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Green-with-...Jacketing-and-Suiting-2-50-Mtrs-/111026007896
You're right. That breast pocket is wonky.

16oz is definitely heavy for the majority of our weather and all of our bright season, but that looks a lot richer than in the other picture. I dig it.

The way you are always holding your shoes still makes me uncomfortable though
 

Chorn

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I've ceased holding my shoes. People were giving me shit for not showing my shoes (most just for fun, but a few seemed to be particularly miffed that I wouldn't wear my shoes inside the house for a picture) so I started holding them. After the point was made, I stopped.
 

Rambo

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I thought that 'no shoes in the house thing' was only for the Japanese?
 
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