Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

CesareRomiti

Well-Known Member
Messages
691
Ratings
3,849
Authentic aristocratic intuition is yours.
The tiberio palace has a kosher entrance, FREE (that is priced in) minibar and excellent amenities by...whats that caprese cosmetics/perfume brand called again..... they even offer facial refreshment spray- always handy even without a snax bro nearby

Also, there is one normally priced restaurant with good food. Dont remember the name either. They got a ukrainian waiter... or cook. Can you believe that, hhahaha!

And dont miss that kitsch dessert room at paolino, the ladies love it.
Obviously only for instagramming.
Otherwise the next day’s photosession at la fontalina would be ruined
Tough life
 

Jupiter

Well-Known Member
Messages
832
Ratings
1,893
Let’s quit that boring tailoring talk
What is the plan for capri? Where do you stay, what will you eat?
I booked one of this crappy 4-stars Italian hotel with a sea view in the town centre. No particular plan excepted eating well and strolling and forgetting the kids and the work. I have some extraordinary memories of my former Italian and Sicilian trips and I hope it'll be as good. I have this souvenir of a drink upon the Taormina bay in the summer dusk... What fullness! Almost better than sechs.

Indeed I'll visit Casa Malaparte (from outside, it's closed to the public) and villa Jovis and the usual touristic spots of the island. I think I'll skip Anacapri. I'll bring La Pelle in my bag (almost 20 years I read it).

Of course if you have tips (particularly about where to eat), I'm interested.

Oh wait! Is it a travel blog? Fuck that noise.
 

CesareRomiti

Well-Known Member
Messages
691
Ratings
3,849
I booked one of this crappy 4-stars Italian hotel with a sea view in the town centre. No particular plan excepted eating well and strolling and forgetting the kids and the work. I have some extraordinary memories of my former Italian and Sicilian trips and I hope it'll be as good. I have this souvenir of a drink upon the Taormina bay in the summer dusk... What fullness! Almost better than sechs.

Indeed I'll visit Casa Malaparte (from outside, it's closed to the public) and villa Jovis and the usual touristic spots of the island. I think I'll skip Anacapri. I'll bring La Pelle in my bag (almost 20 years I read it).

Of course if you have tips (particularly about where to eat), I'm interested.

Oh wait! Is it a travel blog? Fuck that noise.
LOLLERBLADER!
WHAT ARE YOU WRITING THERE? THIS IS ABOUT BESPOKE
SO HAVE RUBINACCI COME OVER TO YOUR SWEET AT JK PLACE AND ORDER LUCAS BEST OK
 

FriendCustomer

Awful Tie Aficionado
Messages
2,270
Ratings
9,541
I booked one of this crappy 4-stars Italian hotel with a sea view in the town centre. No particular plan excepted eating well and strolling and forgetting the kids and the work. I have some extraordinary memories of my former Italian and Sicilian trips and I hope it'll be as good. I have this souvenir of a drink upon the Taormina bay in the summer dusk... What fullness! Almost better than sechs.

Indeed I'll visit Casa Malaparte (from outside, it's closed to the public) and villa Jovis and the usual touristic spots of the island. I think I'll skip Anacapri. I'll bring La Pelle in my bag (almost 20 years I read it).

Of course if you have tips (particularly about where to eat), I'm interested.

Oh wait! Is it a travel blog? Fuck that noise.
Yes, The Skin. Perhaps you should seek out the shop selling blond pubic wigs on Naples. And be sure to dine at the Naples aquarium.
 

rdiaz

Well-Known Member
Messages
939
Ratings
1,348
I booked one of this crappy 4-stars Italian hotel with a sea view in the town centre. No particular plan excepted eating well and strolling and forgetting the kids and the work. I have some extraordinary memories of my former Italian and Sicilian trips and I hope it'll be as good. I have this souvenir of a drink upon the Taormina bay in the summer dusk... What fullness! Almost better than sechs.

Indeed I'll visit Casa Malaparte (from outside, it's closed to the public) and villa Jovis and the usual touristic spots of the island. I think I'll skip Anacapri. I'll bring La Pelle in my bag (almost 20 years I read it).

Of course if you have tips (particularly about where to eat), I'm interested.

Oh wait! Is it a travel blog? Fuck that noise.
Take the stairs from Capri to Anacapri, don't remember the name
I saw them, wondered where they headed and ended up climbing hundreds of steps
but the views were nice
 

aristoi bcn

Spanish Rookie
Messages
343
Ratings
559
So, what's your favorite unsuit between the Volpe and the Oreo? Serious question.
Oreo's is better with no technical issues. Volpe's is not as bad as it seems. He cuts a rather short jacket when meeting young chaps without experience like me, but the suit he cut for weakmonday was well cut, and mine hasn't big issues (twisted sleeves for example). If I hadn't found Iorio I would have tried a second suit with Volpe. And now I would probably try Zizolfi or Granata instead.
 

Jupiter

Well-Known Member
Messages
832
Ratings
1,893
Granata is a hit-or-miss. If hit you'll have a top value suit. Drive him well. I would advise you to arrive with a sketch and everything you want already written for the first contact. Expect a 8 months delivery time min.

I don't know what to think about Zizolfi. Do you have insights?
 

doghouse

King Of The Elite Idiots
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
9,671
Ratings
9,305
First SB full suit from Master Oreo. I think it looks damn good, but I feel the sleeves and trousers a little to long (1-2 cms max). Trousers are grown man's trousers. Not slim, not regular. Just how they should be for a man of my height and complexion. Forget the shoes, I put them so the length could be better assessed. This will be most formal suit (Midnight Fresco Mohair) so the next pieces will be more fun.

View attachment 28878 View attachment 28879 View attachment 28880 View attachment 28881 View attachment 28882

Bonus: Cactus.
Back needs a lot of work. I agree with sarto the hips need some work, it's affecting button pull.
 

aristoi bcn

Spanish Rookie
Messages
343
Ratings
559
I'm not changing tailor, I'm more than happy with Oreo. 8 months wait is too much. Zizolfi was taught by the great Ciro Palermo. If you happen to see the very few pictures from jackets made by him (DWW blog) you will see magic. I've seen pictures from Zizolfi in IG and he cuts an old fashioned important "giacca". Ver agreeable.
 

CesareRomiti

Well-Known Member
Messages
691
Ratings
3,849
I'm not changing tailor, I'm more than happy with Oreo. 8 months wait is too much. Zizolfi was taught by the great Ciro Palermo. If you happen to see the very few pictures from jackets made by him (DWW blog) you will see magic. I've seen pictures from Zizolfi in IG and he cuts an old fashioned important "giacca". Ver agreeable.
Stop calling the old Don “Oreo” and you might get the first halfway satisfying results
 

aristoi bcn

Spanish Rookie
Messages
343
Ratings
559
Well, talking about bespoke which is this thread all about.

Has anyone ever commissioned a jacket with details like these?



How do you call either in english or in italian?

1. The covered upper back/horizontal seam.
2. The faux half belt.
3. The buttoned vent.

As most of you will know, this jacket was made by the great Vincenzo Attolini in the '30. I'm thinking these details would make a great sports jacket. (thinking about plain oatmeal linen with some variegation).
 

TheUntermensch

Well-Known Member
Messages
386
Ratings
493
Well, talking about bespoke which is this thread all about.

Has anyone ever commissioned a jacket with details like these?



How do you call either in english or in italian?

1. The covered upper back/horizontal seam.
2. The faux half belt.
3. The buttoned vent.

As most of you will know, this jacket was made by the great Vincenzo Attolini in the '30. I'm thinking these details would make a great sports jacket. (thinking about plain oatmeal linen with some variegation).
Molto similiar to a Norfolk jacket. With the patch pockets of a blazer. The overall effect is of a working man's jacket, or, if you can carry it off, an artist en plein air in the springtime.
 

FriendCustomer

Awful Tie Aficionado
Messages
2,270
Ratings
9,541
Well, talking about bespoke which is this thread all about.

Has anyone ever commissioned a jacket with details like these?



How do you call either in english or in italian?

1. The covered upper back/horizontal seam.
2. The faux half belt.
3. The buttoned vent.

As most of you will know, this jacket was made by the great Vincenzo Attolini in the '30. I'm thinking these details would make a great sports jacket. (thinking about plain oatmeal linen with some variegation).
I have one of these in ivory linen from a Neapolitan tailor. Like it a lot but it does get only limited wear. No idea what the name is, just show a picture. I’ll see if I can find a picture for you but it basically the same as the Rubi. I could be wrong but I see the old master of via Nardones scoffing at the idea.
 

fxh

OG Party Suit Wearer
Supporter
Messages
5,818
Ratings
5,719
Well, talking about bespoke which is this thread all about. Has anyone ever commissioned a jacket with details like these?
How do you call either in english or in italian?
1. The covered upper back/horizontal seam.
2. The faux half belt.
3. The buttoned vent.
As most of you will know, this jacket was made by the great Vincenzo Attolini in the '30. I'm thinking these details would make a great sports jacket. (thinking about plain oatmeal linen with some variegation).
I'd say -
I want these 3 things:
1. covered upper back/horizontal seam.
2. faux half belt.
3. buttoned vent.

No problem. Glad to help.
 

Buitenlander

Well-Known Member
Messages
66
Ratings
149
B9041315-4998-447F-ABDD-F8E243E5ED94.png
D13AEF3B-000C-4A0A-899B-9B6C470D9817.png
On holiday in Italy for a week. I walked by this tailors shop. He speaks no English, I speak no Italian. Some google translate, me typing, he doesn’t understand cell phones, pointing and grunting like cavemen, we figured out he could finish a suit by the time I left. I might end up with patch pockets on one side and flap on the other. One peak lapel and one notch. 5 roll 4 buttoning maybe. I could only go with fabric he had there. Blue flannel was safe. We took the pants out 3 cm, maybe more. I’ll see what happens Friday. Goedkoper dan Nederland mtm.
 

Jupiter

Well-Known Member
Messages
832
Ratings
1,893
View attachment 29304 View attachment 29305 On holiday in Italy for a week. I walked by this tailors shop. He speaks no English, I speak no Italian. Some google translate, me typing, he doesn’t understand cell phones, pointing and grunting like cavemen, we figured out he could finish a suit by the time I left. I might end up with patch pockets on one side and flap on the other. One peak lapel and one notch. 5 roll 4 buttoning maybe. I could only go with fabric he had there. Blue flannel was safe. We took the pants out 3 cm, maybe more. I’ll see what happens Friday. Goedkoper dan Nederland mtm.
Top seppuku bespoke post.
 

fxh

OG Party Suit Wearer
Supporter
Messages
5,818
Ratings
5,719
View attachment 29304 View attachment 29305 On holiday in Italy for a week. I walked by this tailors shop. He speaks no English, I speak no Italian. Some google translate, me typing, he doesn’t understand cell phones, pointing and grunting like cavemen, we figured out he could finish a suit by the time I left. I might end up with patch pockets on one side and flap on the other. One peak lapel and one notch. 5 roll 4 buttoning maybe. I could only go with fabric he had there. Blue flannel was safe. We took the pants out 3 cm, maybe more. I’ll see what happens Friday. Goedkoper dan Nederland mtm.
This is the way to do it - the Anti Foo Way
 

Lumpen

Well-Known Member
Messages
451
Ratings
1,193
View attachment 29304 View attachment 29305 On holiday in Italy for a week. I walked by this tailors shop. He speaks no English, I speak no Italian. Some google translate, me typing, he doesn’t understand cell phones, pointing and grunting like cavemen, we figured out he could finish a suit by the time I left. I might end up with patch pockets on one side and flap on the other. One peak lapel and one notch. 5 roll 4 buttoning maybe. I could only go with fabric he had there. Blue flannel was safe. We took the pants out 3 cm, maybe more. I’ll see what happens Friday. Goedkoper dan Nederland mtm.



The question is, how was the charlie there?
 

Pimpernel Smith

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,245
Ratings
1,658
View attachment 29304 View attachment 29305 On holiday in Italy for a week. I walked by this tailors shop. He speaks no English, I speak no Italian. Some google translate, me typing, he doesn’t understand cell phones, pointing and grunting like cavemen, we figured out he could finish a suit by the time I left. I might end up with patch pockets on one side and flap on the other. One peak lapel and one notch. 5 roll 4 buttoning maybe. I could only go with fabric he had there. Blue flannel was safe. We took the pants out 3 cm, maybe more. I’ll see what happens Friday. Goedkoper dan Nederland mtm.
That's actually quite brave, I always do my shopping with a chaperone in Italy and they always say the same thing that I've made the shop owners day with my purchases. Which I find hard to believe. But it's a nice ego stroke.
 

Buitenlander

Well-Known Member
Messages
66
Ratings
149
6DBBCACD-4E16-40EC-B232-30223F441CFB.png
Finished, 5 days. His wife made the pants and he made the jacket. My knee jerk complaints, I’m surprised the lapels are so slim and how low rise the pants are. I will have to see after I wear it a few times. In general I do not wear brown shoes with blue suits. Any suit, really.
 

Buitenlander

Well-Known Member
Messages
66
Ratings
149
D9DA79A1-A07F-4B7D-9D36-DA5C85769FE5.jpeg
D92724A2-6BD4-4445-84E5-D01E22D9F523.jpeg

I passed another tailor a few towns away from the other one.he said he had time to make a blazer before I left. It’s boring but I got the blazer instead of a bunch of blow from the West Ham guys. This tailor is half the other guys age and more expensive. His fabrics were not as old and dusty either. I pick it up tonight.
 

Jupiter

Well-Known Member
Messages
832
Ratings
1,893
View attachment 29371 Finished, 5 days. His wife made the pants and he made the jacket. My knee jerk complaints, I’m surprised the lapels are so slim and how low rise the pants are. I will have to see after I wear it a few times. In general I do not wear brown shoes with blue suits. Any suit, really.
It's not bad at all excepted the slim lapels, the ticket pocket and maybe the french blue (difficult color to wear). Buttoning a bit too high also.
 

Pimpernel Smith

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,245
Ratings
1,658
And because:
3) they are talented crooks used to scam old gentlemanly englishmen.
Are you telling me there's a gringo price and my workers are in for their share of the cut?

View attachment 29371 Finished, 5 days. His wife made the pants and he made the jacket. My knee jerk complaints, I’m surprised the lapels are so slim and how low rise the pants are. I will have to see after I wear it a few times. In general I do not wear brown shoes with blue suits. Any suit, really.
That makes a refreshing change, one thing I have noticed over several years is that the Dutch salary men like to sport brown shoes, but preferably tan and scuffed to show that they're really not working for the man.
 
Top Bottom