Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

doghouse said:
I think the coat is pretty badass. I want something similar.

The stripes don't seem bad to me, the spacing I think works. You have to be ok with a busy look though.
Click to expand...

The shirt's busyness seems to "match" and blend somewhat with that of the coat. I would never have considered that look without having seen it. Still not sure if I could pull iit off.
 
This is good, some dickhead Canadian asking Dege & Skinner how much they will charge to tailor his cheap ass Royal Canadian Legion blazer
image.webp
 
Okay, I hate the spread eagle collars and don't know why they ran out of gray thread, but most importantly what kind of joker gets a fun club suit?
 
I give that fun club a pass in that color. I think some sort of rich color check is in my not too distant future.

I quite agree on the color though. Some of them are getting a little silly, and seem to be worn by guys who don't really have the physique for it.
 
Russell Street said:
Okay, I hate the spread eagle collars and don't know why they ran out of gray thread, but most importantly what kind of joker gets a fun club suit?
Click to expand...

doghouse said:
I give that fun club a pass in that color. I think some sort of rich color check is in my not too distant future.

I quite agree on the color though. Some of them are getting a little silly, and seem to be worn by guys who don't really have the physique for it.
Click to expand...

Interesting that this is what A&S is pimping on the social media. Aimed at a younger/different demographic?
 
Thruth said:
Interesting that this is what A&S is pimping on the social media. Aimed at a younger/different demographic?
Click to expand...

Scherensammler said:
Unless they've changed their (bespoke) cut (and found better tailors overall) I'd say this is their RTW line.
Click to expand...

Certainly could be. I generally think that most competent marketers these days are segmenting by demographic. The social media displays are going to tend to younger buyers I would imagine.
 
So Newcomer over on SF (who sometimes posts over here as N Newc ) commissioned a suit from Chris Despos, a bespoke tailor in the US, and posted about it in a thread over on SF.

Newc's Bespoke Adventure.

It's been quite useful to see the progress of the suit through the various stages. The suit was recently finished and Newc posted some pictures of the suit:
675c2efd_FullSizeRender35.jpeg

ce81f798_FullSizeRender37.jpeg

1ed40e63_FullSizeRender39.jpeg
 
He also posted a couple of close-up pictures of the buttonholes and other details:

676cd1ab_FullSizeRender43.jpeg

8a070421_FullSizeRender41.jpeg
 
Journeyman said:
So Newcomer over on SF (who sometimes posts over here as N Newc ) commissioned a suit from Chris Despos, a bespoke tailor in the US, and posted about it in a thread over on SF.

Newc's Bespoke Adventure.

It's been quite useful to see the progress of the suit through the various stages. The suit was recently finished and Newc posted some pictures of the suit:
675c2efd_FullSizeRender35.jpeg

ce81f798_FullSizeRender37.jpeg

1ed40e63_FullSizeRender39.jpeg
Click to expand...


looks technically well-executed
very boring though
 
LKP said:
looks technically well-executed
very boring though
Click to expand...

It is, but sometimes boring is good.

I've heard it said that, when trying out a new tailor, it can be a good idea to have the tailor make a boring suit in plain navy or grey as, with a plain weave cloth in a plain colour, it's easy to see where the tailor's strengths and weaknesses lie.
 
Journeyman said:
It is, but sometimes boring is good.

I've heard it said that, when trying out a new tailor, it can be a good idea to have the tailor make a boring suit in plain navy or grey as, with a plain weave cloth in a plain colour, it's easy to see where the tailor's strengths and weaknesses lie.
Click to expand...


i don't think the boring choice of cloth is necessarily the problem, although it doesn't help. The cut is lacking in style and character (i guess the lapel roll and breast pocket have some character but that's about it). Nothing wrong with that though, it is well fitting and well balanced, but yeah a bit borning.
 
Journeyman said:
It is, but sometimes boring is good.

I've heard it said that, when trying out a new tailor, it can be a good idea to have the tailor make a boring suit in plain navy or grey as, with a plain weave cloth in a plain colour, it's easy to see where the tailor's strengths and weaknesses lie.
Click to expand...

i like the fabric choice
i mean the shoulder/breast area somehow looks a bit boring
cannot really put my finger on it

i think FriendCustomer FriendCustomer understands very well what i mean...
 
It is neatly finished, but there is something off in the upper back. Notice a fold across the upper back just above the blades.
That guy has strong blades, which is why there is a hollow area between them.
The usual response by many tailors is to add round to the upper centre back, which I think doesn't really fix it.
 
Scherensammler said:
It is neatly finished, but there is something off in the upper back. Notice a fold across the upper back just above the blades.
That guy has strong blades, which is why there is a hollow area between them.
The usual response by many tailors is to add round to the upper centre back, which I think doesn't really fix it.
Click to expand...

Beat me to it. Something going on in the back. This isn't unusual in a first commission though. When Poole hit my back just right it was really apparent, the third jacket I got from them.
 
Look at Newc's huge hump on his left shoulder from the back, dude's deformed.
 
LelandJ said:
Look at Newc's huge hump on his left shoulder from the back, dude's deformed.
Click to expand...

I guess that's why he went full bespoke. The tailor added fullness to the upper centre back, which means you get extra where you don't need it. Strong blades are hard to deal with: You need shortness between the blades/ along the spine and at the armholes, but you want length and extra ease where the blades are. It's a tricky pattern manipulation.
 
LKP said:
NAMES
SCHOOLS
PICS
DETAILS
DIRTY INSIDER INFO
Click to expand...

NAME: Mr. G. Nicoletti

SCHOOLS: not sure. He has a grade 8 education. Not Napoli trained. Apprenticed in several English establishments

PICS: what, am I WeakMonday?

DETAILS: he is my new tailor. One of the few Canadians who actually does bespoke.

Camel hair to knee. I sourced the fabric. He did the work.
 
Sup dudes, Newc here. Taking some better pictures this weekend. Promise I am not deformed. Also, with respect to the back wrinkle, that appears to be a function of the shirt I was wearing that day.

With respect to style, I don't know. That is hard. Personally, I do not really care for over-styled suits. A lot of them come across somewhat costumey. This picture, in the interim, shows off a bit more of the stylistic cues of the jacket:

LL


The idea of wanting a bespoke suit have a distinct, discernible style is interesting to me. At the end of the day, I guess it comes down to what you want out of the suit. Personally, I am wearing this to weddings, to court, to special occasions. I wear a suit every day to work, and it needs to be conservative. If I showed up in a suit by Liverano or Cifonelli -- which I find very distinctive -- I would turn heads, and not necessarily in a good way. I could spot a Liverano suit from across a room. I really am not certain I could spot a suit made by Chris (well, at least as easily). Personally, that is a pro to me, but I could see how some could view it in the negative. This is an insanely comfortable, well-fitting, conservatively styled, beautifully made garment. That is really all I wanted.
 
Last edited:
With respect to my back shots... For some reason or another I can never pose well for a back shot. I feel weird, for obvious reasons. I think I was flexing my traps (well, whatever there is of my traps), which gave that left shoulder hump. Again, I am going to take some better pictures, but figured I'd hop in on the discussion.

And to the posters above, I do have very, very prominent blades. It really screws up RTW for me. In general, even if something fits me in the shoulder, my shoulder blades will pull the jacket back, upsetting the balance. It is annoying.
 
Last edited:
Newc said:
With respect to my back shots... For some reason or another I can never pose well for a back shot. I feel weird, for obvious reasons. I think I was flexing my traps (well, whatever there is of my traps), which gave that left shoulder hump. Again, I am going to take some better pictures, but figured I'd hop in on the discussion.

And to the posters above, I do have very, very prominent blades. It really screws up RTW for me. In general, even if something fits me in the shoulder, my shoulder blades will pull the jacket back, upsetting the balance. It is annoying.
Click to expand...

then make a full most muscular pose already
 
Thruth said:
NAME: Mr. G. Nicoletti

SCHOOLS: not sure. He has a grade 8 education. Not Napoli trained. Apprenticed in several English establishments

PICS: what, am I WeakMonday?

DETAILS: he is my new tailor. One of the few Canadians who actually does bespoke.

Camel hair to knee. I sourced the fabric. He did the work.
Click to expand...


you awful stingy devil
stealing the tailor's margin on the tissue!
burn in hell!!!!

what kind of tissue is it?
 
Journeyman said:
The finest underhair of the rare Bactrian ungulate, carefully shaved by Mongolian shepherds in the dead of night and shipped directly to Canada for Thruth Thruth 's clothing pleasure.
Click to expand...

I am going to invoke NAFTA to requisition some from him. I'm pretty sure that's how it works.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 4 (members: 0, guests: 4)
Back
Top Bottom